Smart Roadster shed

Author
Discussion

lostkiwi

4,585 posts

125 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
quotequote all
Had mine near 5 years now and I'm the second owner.
In that time the mileage has gone from 80k to 145k. It's had a crank sensor, clutch and clutch drive plate (if you ever change a clutch always do the drive plate), clutch actuator, wiper motor, water pump, intercooler and a few thermostats.
Mines mapped to 102bhp (was done at 90k) and to be honest I don't think I'd go higher without paying the bottom end some attention.
Anyone who wants to know what the difference is between Brabus and non Brabus engine wise it's surprisingly little:
Camshaft
Turbo
Exhaust valves
Injectors
ECU
Charge cooler as opposed to intercooler and that's it.
In the 65k miles I've covered the Roadster has been to Chamonix, Narbonne, Bordeaux, Limoges on successive years, a separate trip to each. The Narbonne trip was done with a cracked clutch drive plate (we weren't aware of it - just a slightly odd noise) and it did the 1200 miles with no real complaint. Each trip was two up for two weeks with 3 suitcases inside (mines a coupe).
On motorways they can be tiresome (but we just brought it back from France weeks ago after wintering it in our barns near Bordeaux). 500 miles and really not too much of an issue - 85mph virtually all the way and 48mpg. Generally though we avoid motorways and cruise the D roads.
It needs it's third set of rear tyres now (fronts are still the one I bought the car with and will probably outlast the rest of the car!).
Paddles are a must have on these in my view. Makes it that bit easier to anticipate the gear changes. The gearbox really isn't as bad as folks make out.
You can push these little cars through corners at silly speeds and point to point on a twisty B road there's little can touch them for pace and smile factor. It was great fun in the Alps and Pyrenees! Steering is power assisted up to around 20mph (electric assistance) and weights up nicely at speed though it is slightly undergeared.
With advancing age we now tend to use our SL Mercedes for these trips and whilst there is no denying the continent crushing touring ability of the V8 SLs there is nowhere near the fun factor on a twisty road.
Its soon to have a timing chain (first one) and new canvas (£300) .
At the moment no immediate plans to replace it but a career change may force my hand. At that time it will probably end up permanently in France as a fun car for holiday use.
Oh, and mine has no leaks!

Would I have another? Absolutely.

Edited by lostkiwi on Sunday 22 April 21:57

406dogvan

5,328 posts

266 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
quotequote all
We get a goodly number of Smarts (of all kinds) through the garage and - if I'm honest - they don't wear well at-all.

Chap recently picked-up a clean-looking Roadster (with the glassback doodah) and brought it to us to sort out a charging issue and fit some stereo upgrades.

After about an hour of poking around underneath we called him - he came in - we pointed at many, many broken things and said "we'd recommend you sell this heap ASAP" and off he went. Best guess is his car had been upto it's handles in water at some point - I mean they're all leak but this one had been on the Titanic at some point, EVERYTHING was rotten.

There's really no evidence MB intended these things to last - they have a real 'throwaway' feel to them and some parts are crazy expensive.

The A Class of the same era is similarly throwaway of course - it's not a problem unique to these.

Edited by 406dogvan on Monday 23 April 10:19

lostkiwi

4,585 posts

125 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
quotequote all
406dogvan said:
There's really no evidence MB intended these things to last - they have a real 'throwaway' feel to them and some parts are crazy expensive.


Edited by 406dogvan on Monday 23 April 10:19
Really? Plastic panels that don't rust chip, deform or dent, galvanised tridion sub structure (so I would say the rusty one you found must be one of the only ones in the world - I'm half tempted to call b*****t!), oil cooled pistons, oil cooler, spray lubrication of cam chain, gearbox thats built like a brick outhouse (if you've had one apart you'd see how over engineered they are - they just don't break!), full length underbody covers, charge coolers on Brabus models, sodium filled exhaust valves etc

Yes some parts are crazy expensive (but they are for other cars too) and given the production run was very short its hardly surprising some parts are expensive as there was no opportunity for economies of scale. The only stupidly expensive part I can think of is the SAM as everything else is about on a par for mainstream MB. If you think Smart parts are expensive try pricing a 2003 SL front strut, suspension pump or valve block....



Edited by lostkiwi on Monday 23 April 12:00

irocfan

40,652 posts

191 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
quotequote all
I have to agree with the paddle shift comments, I do think it would be dreadful without them. WITH the paddle shift however, it's lovely

TXG399

134 posts

134 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
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EazyDuz said:
Was tempted to get one but was put off by the worlds worst gear box
As soon as you learn to anticipate the changes and drive sympathetically for the gearbox it's really not that bad, especially if you have the paddle shift.

If you want to try a bad gearbox, drive something with EGC! I've driven a lot of cars with EGC and there is so little control at car park speeds it's scarcely drivable.

pthelazyjourno

Original Poster:

1,849 posts

170 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
quotequote all
Interesting responses - good to see all the positive experiences.

I think expectations are possibly a little different depending on price, but I've not got any issues with build quality. It's a cheap and cheerful car, I was never hoping for any sort of luxury experience, so few surprises so far.

Previous Cooper S cost 4-5 times what I paid for Smart, and that really was a car that seemed to get steadily worse as it inched towards and over 100k miles - is the only car I've ever part ex'd as I just didn't want to keep it, kept throwing up massive bills and parts seemed disproportionately expensive.

RE parts for the Roadster, I've not found them to be that bad, but guess it depends what breaks. TBH, if something like the SAM goes I'll get a second hand unit and fit it myself, so hardly a massive bill in the grand scheme of things. You can get an entire engine rebuild for little over a grand, and I can't see much else on the car that costs big money.

In the meantime I've saved over £500 in tax and insurance over my Lexus over 12 months, both needed a full set of tyres and again was about £200 less on the Smart, I'm averaging twice the MPG over 12,000 miles (for whatever that saves me), so even if it does throw up a massive bill I still won't be out of pocket compared to a full sized car.

Some bits are incredibly cheap (the use of bowden cables for anything and everything that moves, for example), and feel it when you touch them, but then again you can replace for pennies so who cares. Love the fact it's made out of plastic, the exterior has worn incredibly well for something with so many miles and previous lack of love. There are lots of bits that seem to be held on with a single screw or gravity, but then again add lightness and all that malarky - plus it's easier to drill out if something seizes!

RE rust on the mechanical bits, doesn't seem any worse than my IS 250 - a car lots of people would probably associate with quality and that had a sticker price that was double the Roadster, and a car that also threw a wobbly with some expensive bills.

I dunno. I guess I'd be pissed off with SAM issues or errant windscreen wipers or leaks if I'd paid £8k for a mint Coupe or had a lot of issues when bought brand new, but I have a shed so guess I have a different outlook. Plus came from Lotus background, where again I guess it's different if you've always owned barges and expect a premium experience. We shall see. Has been pretty good over 13 months I've had it, I'll weigh up the costs of anything that breaks when it breaks and either get second hand bits or DIY if it's too absurdly expensive, but I haven't seen much so far that's looked too pricey. The new dampers were a fraction of the cost of dampers on my Lexus or Elise, for example.

Just love the fact you can really throw it along a b-road, it sticks and sticks, and there's always space to move over more if some idiot comes round a bend on your side of the road, really appreciate how narrow it is. Gearbox for me is biggest PITA for occasional moments where I want to pull off quickly, but TBH they're few and far between.

Just nice to see the stories of people who've had for ages or are remembering experiences.






Edited by pthelazyjourno on Monday 23 April 17:27

pthelazyjourno

Original Poster:

1,849 posts

170 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
quotequote all
lostkiwi said:
Had mine near 5 years now and I'm the second owner.
In that time the mileage has gone from 80k to 145k. It's had a crank sensor, clutch and clutch drive plate (if you ever change a clutch always do the drive plate), clutch actuator, wiper motor, water pump, intercooler and a few thermostats.
Mines mapped to 102bhp (was done at 90k) and to be honest I don't think I'd go higher without paying the bottom end some attention.
Anyone who wants to know what the difference is between Brabus and non Brabus engine wise it's surprisingly little:
Camshaft
Turbo
Exhaust valves
Injectors
ECU
Charge cooler as opposed to intercooler and that's it.
In the 65k miles I've covered the Roadster has been to Chamonix, Narbonne, Bordeaux, Limoges on successive years, a separate trip to each. The Narbonne trip was done with a cracked clutch drive plate (we weren't aware of it - just a slightly odd noise) and it did the 1200 miles with no real complaint. Each trip was two up for two weeks with 3 suitcases inside (mines a coupe).
On motorways they can be tiresome (but we just brought it back from France weeks ago after wintering it in our barns near Bordeaux). 500 miles and really not too much of an issue - 85mph virtually all the way and 48mpg. Generally though we avoid motorways and cruise the D roads.
It needs it's third set of rear tyres now (fronts are still the one I bought the car with and will probably outlast the rest of the car!).
Paddles are a must have on these in my view. Makes it that bit easier to anticipate the gear changes. The gearbox really isn't as bad as folks make out.
You can push these little cars through corners at silly speeds and point to point on a twisty B road there's little can touch them for pace and smile factor. It was great fun in the Alps and Pyrenees! Steering is power assisted up to around 20mph (electric assistance) and weights up nicely at speed though it is slightly undergeared.
With advancing age we now tend to use our SL Mercedes for these trips and whilst there is no denying the continent crushing touring ability of the V8 SLs there is nowhere near the fun factor on a twisty road.
Its soon to have a timing chain (first one) and new canvas (£300) .
At the moment no immediate plans to replace it but a career change may force my hand. At that time it will probably end up permanently in France as a fun car for holiday use.
Oh, and mine has no leaks!

Would I have another? Absolutely.

Edited by lostkiwi on Sunday 22 April 21:57
Where did you get the remap done? I'd like to get mine done, but lots of companies seem to have disappeared over the years and would like to get something with emphasis on driveability rather than outright power figures. Seen some quoting 115bhp but would prefer to aim for somewhere round about 100bhp mark.

Captain Smerc

3,031 posts

117 months

Monday 23rd April 2018
quotequote all
ears remap you say ?
Tony is the man to see -
http://www.tune4performance.com/
And he happens to be next door to Rob -
http://www.s2smarts.co.uk/home.htm

Edited by Captain Smerc on Monday 23 April 18:47

lostkiwi

4,585 posts

125 months

Tuesday 24th April 2018
quotequote all
Captain Smerc said:
ears remap you say ?
Tony is the man to see -
http://www.tune4performance.com/
And he happens to be next door to Rob -
http://www.s2smarts.co.uk/home.htm

Edited by Captain Smerc on Monday 23 April 18:47
Exactly who I was going to suggest.
My map is a BIG Performance map but in hindsight I'd probably go with Tony if I were to do it again. Nothing wrong with the BIG one but as I understand it Tony does a live remap on the Dyno whereas Ian just applies the map file to your ECU.

Changing the steering wheel can make them feel nicer to drive too - there are two main options:
The full V6 wheel (at over £1000) which just plugs and plays
The 451 Brabus wheel which needs some modification work but is less than half the price.
The V6 wheel is also very small and obstructs gauges whereas the 451 wheel is a halfway step meaning you get a slightly smaller wheel but with a much thicker rim that still allows you to see the gauges.

This is a custom Brabus 451 wheel bought on eBay for £320 with alcantara cover and carbon effect centre. Oh and the 451 paddles are far more positive than the roadster ones.

Edited by lostkiwi on Tuesday 24th April 13:19


Edited by lostkiwi on Tuesday 24th April 13:20

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Wednesday 25th April 2018
quotequote all
lostkiwi said:
Really? Plastic panels that don't rust chip, deform or dent, galvanised tridion sub structure (so I would say the rusty one you found must be one of the only ones in the world - I'm half tempted to call b*****t!)
They most certainly do rust. I bought a scrapper for the body panels and the rear axle to repair my wife's Roadster after it was written off due a cretin swerving across the the road and scraping down the side of it. The rear axle on the scrapper was rusty, but salvageable after sand blasting and epoxy coating, though I had to drill holes and fit rivnuts to hold the brake pipe clips as the original studs had rusted away to nothing.

The tridion underneath the car was utterly rotten, I poked a screwdriver through it in a number of places. Even on my wife's car there was a fair bit of surface rust showing underneath so I applied numerous coats of Dynax UB when I swapped the body panels and rear axle over.

My ForTwo had the classic rust areas as well, holed on both sides from the wheel arch into the backs of the sills which I had to weld up (and injected Dynax into the sills afterwards). Most people don't realise as it's hidden behind the arch liner, so the majority of older ForTwos will be rusty in this area.

That said they are such fun to drive that I'm quite happy to work on them to keep them in good condition.

lostkiwi

4,585 posts

125 months

Wednesday 25th April 2018
quotequote all
Interesting - I'd never heard of a Roadster Tridion with rust (and I'm quite active on a Roadster forum).
I know the rear tube and subframe can rust but they are easily replaceable and not overly expensive.
My own 145k miles car has no rust at all underneath aside from a couple of spots of surface rust on the dedion tube.

pthelazyjourno

Original Poster:

1,849 posts

170 months

Wednesday 25th April 2018
quotequote all
lostkiwi said:
Exactly who I was going to suggest.
My map is a BIG Performance map but in hindsight I'd probably go with Tony if I were to do it again. Nothing wrong with the BIG one but as I understand it Tony does a live remap on the Dyno whereas Ian just applies the map file to your ECU.

Changing the steering wheel can make them feel nicer to drive too - there are two main options:
The full V6 wheel (at over £1000) which just plugs and plays
The 451 Brabus wheel which needs some modification work but is less than half the price.
The V6 wheel is also very small and obstructs gauges whereas the 451 wheel is a halfway step meaning you get a slightly smaller wheel but with a much thicker rim that still allows you to see the gauges.

This is a custom Brabus 451 wheel bought on eBay for £320 with alcantara cover and carbon effect centre. Oh and the 451 paddles are far more positive than the roadster ones.

Edited by lostkiwi on Tuesday 24th April 13:19


Edited by lostkiwi on Tuesday 24th April 13:20
Excellent, thanks chaps, will give Tony a bell after I get the MOT for my ForTwo sorted. I saw a lot of things disappeared off BIG's website, got the impression it was a thing of the past.

Steering wheel looks ace - what sort of modifications are required?

pthelazyjourno

Original Poster:

1,849 posts

170 months

Wednesday 25th April 2018
quotequote all
Mr2Mike said:
They most certainly do rust. I bought a scrapper for the body panels and the rear axle to repair my wife's Roadster after it was written off due a cretin swerving across the the road and scraping down the side of it. The rear axle on the scrapper was rusty, but salvageable after sand blasting and epoxy coating, though I had to drill holes and fit rivnuts to hold the brake pipe clips as the original studs had rusted away to nothing.

The tridion underneath the car was utterly rotten, I poked a screwdriver through it in a number of places. Even on my wife's car there was a fair bit of surface rust showing underneath so I applied numerous coats of Dynax UB when I swapped the body panels and rear axle over.

My ForTwo had the classic rust areas as well, holed on both sides from the wheel arch into the backs of the sills which I had to weld up (and injected Dynax into the sills afterwards). Most people don't realise as it's hidden behind the arch liner, so the majority of older ForTwos will be rusty in this area.

That said they are such fun to drive that I'm quite happy to work on them to keep them in good condition.
I wonder if it's the plastic body panels that make things seem worse - with a traditional car you can spot a rusty dog a mile off, whereas most Smarts tend to look reasonable irrespective of condition. There are always plenty of parts that can and will rust whatever you buy though.

lostkiwi

4,585 posts

125 months

Friday 27th April 2018
quotequote all
pthelazyjourno said:
lostkiwi said:
Exactly who I was going to suggest.
My map is a BIG Performance map but in hindsight I'd probably go with Tony if I were to do it again. Nothing wrong with the BIG one but as I understand it Tony does a live remap on the Dyno whereas Ian just applies the map file to your ECU.

Changing the steering wheel can make them feel nicer to drive too - there are two main options:
The full V6 wheel (at over £1000) which just plugs and plays
The 451 Brabus wheel which needs some modification work but is less than half the price.
The V6 wheel is also very small and obstructs gauges whereas the 451 wheel is a halfway step meaning you get a slightly smaller wheel but with a much thicker rim that still allows you to see the gauges.

This is a custom Brabus 451 wheel bought on eBay for £320 with alcantara cover and carbon effect centre. Oh and the 451 paddles are far more positive than the roadster ones.

Edited by lostkiwi on Tuesday 24th April 13:19


Edited by lostkiwi on Tuesday 24th April 13:20
Excellent, thanks chaps, will give Tony a bell after I get the MOT for my ForTwo sorted. I saw a lot of things disappeared off BIG's website, got the impression it was a thing of the past.

Steering wheel looks ace - what sort of modifications are required?
Details are on Evilution but in short modified steering column or wheel (there are 4 wide splines on the wheel but not on the column - I found it easier to grind out 4 splines on the column with a dremel) and wiring mods for the paddles/horn/airbag.

jakesmith

9,461 posts

172 months

Saturday 12th May 2018
quotequote all
Bit late to this thread but I bought a Brabus Roadster in October 17 having wanted one for ages, as a 3rd car (have an Evoque and
a Granturismo too), and sold it in December that year (for what I paid). It was remapped and about a year before I bought it had about £2.5k spent on it and then another £1k in the 10 weeks I had it getting it perfect mechanically - new shocks, springs, brakes, tyres, crank sensor etc etc etc.

Fun little car but really terrible interior, does not feel safe at speed, ridiculously noisy above 65MPH, proper faff to properly open the roof so not a quick 'drive and go' roadster, very little storage space inside & in boot. Handling is great and on good tyres probably quicker entry speed round some corners than the Porsche I replaced it with. Got more positive comments from public than any of my other cars (997, Maserati Granturismo etc).

I would not have another, it is fine for plipping around on local journeys of a few miles but anything longer than 30 mins became tiresome very quickly. It launches incredibly slowly like a go kart in fact and can't beat anything off the lights. You also get absolutely zero respect from other motorists on the roads despite being nippy once moving

Replaced it with a 987 Boxster S which is, surprisingly, a lot better in every way (!) and has even cost less to maintain so far

pthelazyjourno

Original Poster:

1,849 posts

170 months

Sunday 13th May 2018
quotequote all
jakesmith said:
Bit late to this thread but I bought a Brabus Roadster in October 17 having wanted one for ages, as a 3rd car (have an Evoque and
a Granturismo too), and sold it in December that year (for what I paid). It was remapped and about a year before I bought it had about £2.5k spent on it and then another £1k in the 10 weeks I had it getting it perfect mechanically - new shocks, springs, brakes, tyres, crank sensor etc etc etc.

Fun little car but really terrible interior, does not feel safe at speed, ridiculously noisy above 65MPH, proper faff to properly open the roof so not a quick 'drive and go' roadster, very little storage space inside & in boot. Handling is great and on good tyres probably quicker entry speed round some corners than the Porsche I replaced it with. Got more positive comments from public than any of my other cars (997, Maserati Granturismo etc).

I would not have another, it is fine for plipping around on local journeys of a few miles but anything longer than 30 mins became tiresome very quickly. It launches incredibly slowly like a go kart in fact and can't beat anything off the lights. You also get absolutely zero respect from other motorists on the roads despite being nippy once moving

Replaced it with a 987 Boxster S which is, surprisingly, a lot better in every way (!) and has even cost less to maintain so far
Fair comments. That said, I've done about 60,000 miles in an S1 Elise, so my frame of reference for comfort, interior noise and a roof that is easy to remove is probably the polar opposite from yours!!

Disagree on feeling safe at speed, mind you. Mine feels perfectly stable and happy at 80 (if you can put up with the wind noise), although it is generally just used for potting around and b-road fun.

Enjoy the Boxster, lovely cars. Certainly a world away for quality, handling finesse, speed and ease of use. Never quite match the Smart for quirkiness though, and a lot more likely to be traveling at huge speeds if you thrash it in higher gears!

irocfan

40,652 posts

191 months

Sunday 13th May 2018
quotequote all
mine felt dreadful at speed to begin with - one change of tyres later and it's transformed

Heartworm

1,923 posts

162 months

Sunday 13th May 2018
quotequote all
Had no issues with mine at speed, and I've driven it all over the UK,

wjb

5,100 posts

132 months

Saturday 11th August 2018
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Great thead, the roadsters are an interesting car.

And as the owner of a new build house/garage they've landed on my radar as there not much else thats affordable and worth having that's fits comfortably in there smile

pthelazyjourno

Original Poster:

1,849 posts

170 months

Monday 14th December 2020
quotequote all
Thought I'd revisit this, as been a few years. Sold the Roadster, as needed something to carry bikes. Bought a Fiesta, and then a C-Max.

Mid-life crisis lasted two years, then I realised that I've completely stopped driving for the fun of it, don't really like cars anymore, and had no project.

Being the last one of these notoriously unreliable cars ran for 30k miles without ever letting me down, and selling for the same price I bought it for, decided I really wanted another. Will try and keep this one.



Bought for shed money, needed a few things doing, but is largely sound. Had a new engine 30k miles ago with an invoice for 5x the cost of the car, so hopefully we can avoid the engine detonating in future!

Have got a few plans in the making, would like to replace the turbo and exhaust manifold at some point, having a new roof fitted at the end of this month, so will update the thread as I go for anyone who cares. Good to be back in something fun, has given me a project for lockdown 2.0.