Jade green Mk2 Golf GTI 16v - project
Discussion
SHutchinson said:
As a bare minimum I'll upgrade the factory fit speakers and the wiring. Might run a small amp plus something to make a bit of extra bass but I barely listen to music when I drive as it it. I'm definitely fitting a retro 90's headunit though.
I always felt like these were a nice 'retro' compromise for not much cash: https://www.continental-automotive.com/en-gl/Truck...I've you've got a bit more to throw at the solution, then Blaupunkt are making some lovely stuff with a 90s lilt.
SHutchinson said:
In the olden days this project would have been uneconomical . . .
Yup. I sold my 170k miles 89G Jade Green 8v for £100 when it failed its MOT in 2002 and bought an 90H 405 GRDT instead. The Golf cost me £725 six months earlier. Alas, looks to have been off the road over a decade now.
Ah well, we can't keep them all!
PistonBroker said:
Yup. I sold my 170k miles 89G Jade Green 8v for £100 when it failed its MOT in 2002 and bought an 90H 405 GRDT instead. The Golf cost me £725 six months earlier.
Alas, looks to have been off the road over a decade now.
Ah well, we can't keep them all!
Ah you should have mentioned it, I'd have given you £200!! Haha. These things were pretty disposable for a while. I traded a black Mk2 in for a Satin Red poverty spec 1.8 LS Vectra! I ended up owning about 6 or 7 Vectras over the years and had plenty of fun at events and club runs all over the UK and Europe, but it was still a stupid decision!Alas, looks to have been off the road over a decade now.
Ah well, we can't keep them all!
Getting the shell stripped down ready to go on a rollover jig. Managed to get every bolt cleanly out of the rear beam. I’ll replace them all but I wanted to avoid cutting and/or drilling bolts out. The passenger side pivot joint bolt snapped but it just meant I could push it out.
Spent a minute tidying the rust off the floor and having a sit down.
Getting there slowly. Doing it the right way rather than rushing it.
The rear beam seems okay. I’ll send that off to the blasters and see what it comes back like. Still a long way from bolting shiny bits back on.
Spent a minute tidying the rust off the floor and having a sit down.
Getting there slowly. Doing it the right way rather than rushing it.
The rear beam seems okay. I’ll send that off to the blasters and see what it comes back like. Still a long way from bolting shiny bits back on.
Time to see just how good this Kurust really is. I’m expecting that to be all good steel next time I open the garage door. That’s how it works, right?
I’ll make the outer piece before chopping the inner skin out and knocking that up. I’m a bit wary of cutting them both out at the same time in case the window frame droops. Not that there’s any good metal keeping it together I suppose.
I’ll make the outer piece before chopping the inner skin out and knocking that up. I’m a bit wary of cutting them both out at the same time in case the window frame droops. Not that there’s any good metal keeping it together I suppose.
Had an hour in the garage so started to mock up the patch panels for the inner and outer window frame. For a first go in 1.2mm steel that’s looking ok. Definitely workable I think.
I’m going to buy some 1.0mm steel, maybe 0.9mm and see if it’s a closer match for the original panel.
I got a shrinker/stretcher for Xmas to make some curved pieces but I managed to snap it on the first try.
I’m going to buy some 1.0mm steel, maybe 0.9mm and see if it’s a closer match for the original panel.
I got a shrinker/stretcher for Xmas to make some curved pieces but I managed to snap it on the first try.
SHutchinson said:
Time to see just how good this Kurust really is. I’m expecting that to be all good steel next time I open the garage door. That’s how it works, right?
I’ll make the outer piece before chopping the inner skin out and knocking that up. I’m a bit wary of cutting them both out at the same time in case the window frame droops. Not that there’s any good metal keeping it together I suppose.
Great work.I’ll make the outer piece before chopping the inner skin out and knocking that up. I’m a bit wary of cutting them both out at the same time in case the window frame droops. Not that there’s any good metal keeping it together I suppose.
Might i introduce you to the wonders of “evaporust”.
It’s a non toxic, non acid product that you can bath parts in. It doesn’t turn the rust to oxide like Kurust. It actually dissolves the rust. Depending on how much rust is there it can take a few days, but here is an example. This part had NO treatment or buffing - straight out of the bath.
And this disc, again, straight soak:
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