Jaguar xjc 4.2

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RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Friday 12th April 2019
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A quick check to make sure the outer bearings are completely pushed home onto the shoulder within the hub

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Friday 12th April 2019
quotequote all

Same procedure to fit the bearing outer on the other side of the hub, although I had to use some parallel packing to keep the hub square whilst pushing this side in.


RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Friday 12th April 2019
quotequote all

A pair of rear axle hubs fitted with new axle and lower wishbone bearing outers. A wipe over to degrease then a coat of etch primer front and back.


These will dry over the weekend ready for a top coat of gloss black

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Monday 15th April 2019
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xjc said:

Here is a pic of my car, it currently has Wolfrace wheels on, which I will probably change for Kent alloys before it goes back on the road.

I do also think the 18" wheels you where running on your car look well.
Slot mags are a period mod. I wouldn’t junk them too soon.
Trying to remember the series 3 engine differences, the block has areas machined/cast to stop it cracking between bores and I believe is cast different to strengthen. The series 3 pistons have shorter skirts and therefore less weight to throw up and down that long stroke. If an injection head is used it was made with bigger inlet valves and breathes better accordingly. That’s all I can remember engine wise. A good friend built my engine over 10 years ago now and was a 6 cylinder jag nut. His cars were of 60’s era and he used to rally his own built mk2 with success.
Well your cars body looks in damn better condition than mine did after sitting outside. It does rain a lot in South Wales though lol.
With regards to rebuilding the axles myself is purely down to cost. It would be fab to be able to farm everything out to various companies but I’m just a regular fella earning a regular wage. I post the pictures as they may give ideas to someone else in a similar position to me. I do enjoy it though. Making seemingly scrap parts look new again does give a sense of achievement smile

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Monday 15th April 2019
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Rear hubs freshly painted front and back and looking good smile

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Saturday 20th April 2019
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Need to re-tap a few holes since getting some parts galvanised.


RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Saturday 20th April 2019
quotequote all

The spacer tubes needed .4mm off the lengths to fit back into place after galvanising. Easy to remove using a work lathe wink
These parts bolt either side of the diff and allow the rear wishbones to be attached

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Saturday 20th April 2019
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Another tool made to push the new outer bearing into the front hubs.

The new tool now helps push in the smaller opposite bearing outer by sitting square in the press and no pressure on the thin pressed steel grease seal on the back of the hub



Both front wheel hubs fitted with new bearings. The inners are marked up to match each outer for fronts, rears, left hand and right hand.

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Saturday 20th April 2019
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CharlesdeGaulle said:
I love your thread. Making tools in order to restore your car is rather cool. I confess I have no idea what all these bits do, but it's an entertaining read and I'm massively impressed wiv da skillz.
It’s the first and probably the only car I will properly restore. My time working in a toolroom which is part of a factory selling engines to a European market is I feel very limited what with brexit looming. Just making the most of my time at work and the wages that go with it.
Thanks for the compliment though, always appreciated and I hope this ole girl looks fab when complete smile

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Saturday 27th April 2019
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So here’s the late xjs diff for the coupe. Drained the oil and it was extremely clean. Removed the cover and the gears are like new. No slack in the bearing just really good. So cover went back on and a once over the rusty casing with a rotary wire brush, a degrease and the phosphate coating applied. Will take about 48hrs to dry before I can etch prime and then a gloss black top coat. All whilst hanging on the garage hoist. The aluminium cover will be refurbished once painting has been completed.

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
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Pictures above show the panels which are under the rear bench seat when fitted. These have obviously rotted through.

Cut out and replaced with stainless steel. Reason for using stainless is a fibre glass exhaust heat shield is fitted directly under these panels. Once the car is running imagine the damp fibre from condensation, rain water etc now heated up via the exhaust. Water vapour rises and will dampen the panel under the rear seats and hence eventually rot through. Looking from under the car you can’t see what’s happening with that panel when all the running gear etc is fitted. Hence a stainless steel repair.
It will be properly painted and protected as if a plain steel panel so should be something I wont need to worry about in my lifetime smile

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Sunday 12th May 2019
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Above the gloss black diff with the shotblast finish cast aluminium diff cover placed on top. Looks a nice touch to perhaps polish but I’ll never be able to keep it polished once fitted. Etch prime and a satin black finish to the cover I think

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Sunday 12th May 2019
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SiH said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Cut out and replaced with stainless steel. Reason for using stainless is a fibre glass exhaust heat shield is fitted directly under these panels. Once the car is running imagine the damp fibre from condensation, rain water etc now heated up via the exhaust. Water vapour rises and will dampen the panel under the rear seats and hence eventually rot through. Looking from under the car you can’t see what’s happening with that panel when all the running gear etc is fitted.
It makes you wonder about whether they even realised this at the time; whether they discounted it as being an issue or just thought 'sod it, it'll do...'.
I have a suspicion it would be more likely to be the last one which is a shame but certainly appears to have been the prevalent mindset at the time. Either way I'm enjoying watching your work and look forward to seeing the finished car!
I imagine it was an issue for cars when out of warranty so when a series xj was a current model the factory just wasn’t interested. It’s only as a 40 year old car I personally wondered why rot here. There was no leak from the rear screen. Then when the bodywork man told me the exhaust heat shielding was made from glass fibre mat and actually touched that area it made sense. The rear axle needed removing first to gain access to the retainers to remove the heat shield properly. So not a straight forward job

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Sunday 12th May 2019
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alec.e said:
Your doing a great job, keep up the good work!
Thank you smile

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Tuesday 28th May 2019
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Stating the obvious here, above are my coupe doors now in fresh primer.

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Tuesday 28th May 2019
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mwstewart said:
Nice project and good work. I'm becoming quite interested in these since watching Harry's videos.
If I’m honest I’ve only watched one of Harry’s videos of his squadron blue v12. I think he bought it from miles classics might be wrong though.

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Monday 3rd June 2019
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Rear seat belt mounts cut out. It smooths the inner wheel arch and less of a future dirt/mud trap

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Monday 24th June 2019
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Body repairs nearly completed. Jacking points next.

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Friday 16th August 2019
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Been a while as trying to get to grips with being made redundant in a few months frown
So above I’ve just made a pair of stainless steel front anti-roll bar drop links. The larger middle diameter will shortly be machined for spanner flats.
The screw threads I’ve kept imperial as the originals at 3/8 unf

RobXjcoupe

Original Poster:

3,194 posts

92 months

Saturday 17th August 2019
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Bobberoo99 said:
That's a stter mate!!! Don't tell me they're blaming Brexit! Good luck with finding a new job, fingers crossed it will happen quickly!!
Of course nothing to do with brexit, just the market getting smaller and the big push to battery powered cars.
So I’m making the most of the facility’s now wink