Buying an Impreza Hawkeye, blind, from Scotland...

[S100HP]

md4776 said:

Fair play for taking a punt, its an enjoyable thread for the rest of us who have nothing invested in the car. Hope it works out OK in the end....

I actually seen the car for sale (online, not in person) around the time you bought it and I wondered what a cheap scooby would be like. Guess you've helpfully answered the question

Thanks. I'm a bit down on it at the moment, but its probably not fair. It's not awful, I just feel a bit cheated. I'll be much happier once I know it will reliably start each time, and can then crack on with other bits.

[anonymous-user]

The imobilisor will self arm after a while if through a cat 1 alarm system. You have to disarm it again and yes it does cut power to windows etc.

[S100HP]

jsf said:

The imobilisor will self arm after a while if through a cat 1 alarm system. You have to disarm it again and yes it does cut power to windows etc.

Okay,that's interesting. Doesn't make sense that it would kill power to everything as soon as you remove key from ignition only after having been driving it, unless I'm missing something?

[Bungleaio]

I have the original exhaust that came off my 2006 WRX that you are welcome to if its any use to you. I took it off in 2009 and it's been in the garage ever since.

[S100HP]

That's kind, thanks..where are you?

[Bungleaio]

I'm in Leicestershire but I travel about a bit so may be able to drop it off to you.

[R12many]

seiben said:

Stupid question, but you know you need to start it within 60 seconds (I think) of unlocking or the immobiliser kicks in? If in doubt, turn the ignition to position 2 and click the lock/unlock button on the key/fob before starting.

You're probably way ahead of me on this, but worth mentioning as it's a free fix if I'm right

Our Forester used to immobilize within about 15 seconds of unlocking, it was a right pain!

Edited by R12many on Wednesday 4th July 07:46

[S100HP]

Bungleaio said:

I'm in Leicestershire but I travel about a bit so may be able to drop it off to you.

Sure we can sort something.

I actually really like the car, it looks awesome, just a shame I've little confidence ATM.

I'm sure my hot start issue is certainly linked to temperature of something. I've just been out and started it, let it idle for a min or two, turned it off then locked it, and it worked correctly. I then unlocked it and it started again. It's must be temperature related as the times it's failed to start are once I've driven for a bit.

I just don't know what the problem is. Must be a fuse or relay? I've ordered a replacement main fuse too as maybe my 60+60 bodge isn't helping.

Edited by S100HP on Tuesday 3rd July 22:39

[MDMA .]

Try the following :

Check / clean crank position sensor. Check / clean coolant temp sensor. Clean MAF, then check the FPR.

[Steve_F]

Sounds very similar to an issue my Jeep had, normally started from cold but was a lottery from hot. Got worse quickly , that was cured by a replacement crank position sensor.

Thought it was battery related at first, died outside a Halfords so they checked it and reported a good battery. Called the AA, wandered away for food on a 3 hour wait. Got totally bored after 2 hours and turned the key. Off it went.

Certainly sounds like it was traded in due to mounting small issues but doesn't seem time to give up on it yet. I had similar money in an Octavia Vrs (in blue too) which had a growing issue list. Where I went wrong was not finding everything before starting fixing. Ended up getting rid right after spending £400 on an exhaust. Found out there were cam chain and sensor issues with four figure repair bills (fixing all major issues). You don't seem to be heading that way!

[MB140]

Sorry mate don’t have a clue about scoobys commenting to follow.

Best of luck with this one after your last scotish escapade

[S100HP]

MDMA . said:

Try the following :

Check / clean crank position sensor. Check / clean coolant temp sensor. Clean MAF, then check the FPR.

My challenge with all these suggestions is would they kill power to the car entirely? Even the ODO disappears when its warm. This is why I think it must be fuse/relay related. Its as if someone has disconnected the battery. I've checked the clamps btw!

md4776 said:

Wouldn't the crank position sensor show up as a engine management light? I had similar problems on a 2005 car (not scooby) I had but it flagged up as the EML with code reading the sensor , changed the sensor and it seemed fine for 24 hours before it started playing up again. Auto electrician figured out it was the plug the sensor went into that was knackered.

I tend to agree, see above. Its totally losing all power once warm. It doesn't feel like a sensor issue.

Steve_F said:

Certainly sounds like it was traded in due to mounting small issues but doesn't seem time to give up on it yet. I had similar money in an Octavia Vrs (in blue too) which had a growing issue list. Where I went wrong was not finding everything before starting fixing. Ended up getting rid right after spending £400 on an exhaust. Found out there were cam chain and sensor issues with four figure repair bills (fixing all major issues). You don't seem to be heading that way!

Well I've not pushed the boat out too much just yet. I have just dropped the wheel which loses pressure over a few days to be repaired, hoping its just a bad seal or dodgy valve. That might cost me a whole £10. I've a couple new relays and a new main fuse in the post, which is another £15! That takes my spending to £100 now. Kitchski is coming over this evening to take a look and give an opinion. The next task is to get it down to his work and up on the ramps, so we can truly see how bad it is underneath before committing too much more to the cause.

MB140 said:

Sorry mate don’t have a clue about scoobys commenting to follow.

Best of luck with this one after your last scotish escapade

Cheers, but I'm never doing it again!

[seiben]

I feel weirdly invested in this. I sincerely hope you can get it going without too much trouble and can start enjoying it!

[Kitchski]

We'll plug it into a budget OBD tester tonight

[cheesesliceking]

ELM & DashCommand works well with the Impreza.

Still think your best your best route is fuel filter and cleaning the CPS though

[DaveCWK]

I wouldn't get too disheartened at the structural rust - from looking at the picture I think that is the large 'U' brace that goes along the front chassis legs then across under the radiator at the front - If so, it's bolt on & easy to replace, & you could perhaps even remove it completely if you don't care about attaching the undertray - The lightweight JDM Bug Eye (S202) didn't have it fitted. I think it's main purpose is related to frontal crash cabin intrusion to assist holding the engine low down.

[Steve_F]

md4776 said:

Wouldn't the crank position sensor show up as a engine management light? I had similar problems on a 2005 car (not scooby) I had but it flagged up as the EML with code reading the sensor , changed the sensor and it seemed fine for 24 hours before it started playing up again. Auto electrician figured out it was the plug the sensor went into that was knackered.

Mine certainly never, when it was working there was no light on, when it wasn't working the whole system was dead, nothing light up on the dash, from memory I think the central locking stopped working.

Interested to hear what tonight brings, my bets are on it not being as bad as you're fearing - fingers crossed!

[AdamIndy]

cheesesliceking said:

Still think your best your best route is fuel filter and cleaning the CPS though

Will changing the fuel filter help the electrics to work when it's hot? From what I can tell, the car is completely dead when it's hot, no electrics working at all.

Electrical issues are a right tt, I hate them! I'd be waiting for the electrics not to work again then chasing the wiring with a multi meter from the battery and see what has power and what doesn't. Get a multi meter around the relays and see if there is power to them.

Good luck mate!

[CarlosV8]

If you're losing all power I would be checking main relays and fuses as you are, but have you also checked earthing points? Dodgy earths can do all sorts of weird things!

My Impreza is being collected tomorrow, but if you want to check/compare anything on a working car tonight let me know.

[S100HP]

CarlosV8 said:

If you're losing all power I would be checking main relays and fuses as you are, but have you also checked earthing points? Dodgy earths can do all sorts of weird things!

My Impreza is being collected tomorrow, but if you want to check/compare anything on a working car tonight let me know.

Thanks for the offer, but Kitch is coming over to night to have a look. Earth was the other consideration so will be sure to check it out.

In other good news the deflating wheel is now fixed for £10. It had a dodgy valve and was corroded. The rear wheel also loses pressure, but not as quickly so that one can be resolved when I can drive the car.

AdamIndy said:

Will changing the fuel filter help the electrics to work when it's hot? From what I can tell, the car is completely dead when it's hot, no electrics working at all.

Electrical issues are a right tt, I hate them! I'd be waiting for the electrics not to work again then chasing the wiring with a multi meter from the battery and see what has power and what doesn't. Get a multi meter around the relays and see if there is power to them.

Good luck mate!

Thanks. You are reading correctly, completely dead when warmed up. A short idle then restart doesn't cause the same issues. Should be easier to work out with someone who knows what they're looking at tonight.

Edited by S100HP on Wednesday 4th July 13:15