2004 BMW Z4 3.0
Discussion
I've been doing that for just over 5 years now and there isn't anything I would rather have. Big fan of the car, and your willingness to get grubby. I've come close to picking one of these up a few times, but ended up plumping for a Mini instead.
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
C70R said:
Can you share a link for the windscreen chip kit you used? I have a very annoying one that isn't quite an MOT failure, and I quite like the idea of spending a couple of quid on an 'ok' fix.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Premium-Car-Windscreen-Repair-Kit-Crack-Chip-Windshield-Glass-Window-Screen/153688776924The recommendation I saw on Facebook was from someone who bought the same kit in Asda for about a fiver if you prefer to shop local.
Could you shine some light on the cable you use to connect the car to INPA?
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
Sycamore said:
Could you shine some light on the cable you use to connect the car to INPA?
I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312801859524I have the full set of software and the DCables cable I have connects and I can read live data from the car, however as soon as I try dig any deeper, read fault codes etc it says it can't connect to the car. Assuming it's a fault with the cable itself.
I have the same car, same colour, same engine, so I'm hoping that's the case. Or I am thick, which is a real possibility.
The switch swaps two pins and that is the key I think - I had a similar unit before where I added the switch myself and after that it worked on my MG ZT & the Z4. This is probably why yours isn't working?
Plus you need the right version of the software (I think the version included is ok), and to ensure that the COM ports are configured correctly (i.e. that the interface software is pointing at the COM port associated with the cable).
Was driving along a while ago and the battery light came on and lost power steering.
Thought it was just lack of use, so took it out later and it was fine.
Stopped on the way back to make a phone call and noticed the roof wouldn't go up. And then the power steering stopped working again.
Very luckily I wasn't far from home, started to run poorly before eventually conking out on the drive.
Although it was on the drive, unfortunately it was blocking my other car - and had the roof down - so I tried jumping it and it started fine.
With the engine running, the problem is obvious
Airbox out
Alternator off
I thought it'd be a straight replacement, but it was a bit more expensive than I was expecting - the fitment is unique to the Z4, but I suspect any M54 one would fit - even then it was £130 for the cheapest recon unit.
I took a chance and replaced just the voltage regulator for £30.
And sucess
Unfortunately, while poking around I found a suspicious coolant puddle on the undertray
First thought was the expansion tank, so I pulled that out to find out it'd already been replaced in 2015 (that was in the service history, ooops).
I noticed the seals on the expansion tank cap were looking a bit worn out, but that wouldn't explain that much coolant.
Some more poking around and I spotted a little bit of coolant around the temperature sensor
Pulled it out and it looks fine
Having looked online they never leak... unless they've been in there a while, then if they are ever removed they never seal again.
I removed it when doing the VANOS seals so fair enough.
The O-Ring isn't a separate part, and all the measurements I could fine online were imperial, so I got a new one for £15.
I originally thought the leak was from the thermostat above, but although I'd realised it wasn't, I got a brand new Wahler one on eBay for £15 so I thought I'd change it anyway.
The bolts were really rusty, and there was coolant stains around the outside of the gasket so I think it has been leaking for a while, although probably not badly. And obviously new bolts too.
Baby monitor makes nap time, car time
Put it all back together, trying to bleed the system and the stupid plastic bleed screw rounded
I get why it's plastic, and i'm probably guilty of overtightening it slightly, but I think the real problem is that I don't know what tool is best to use on it.
It's a cross head, but no depth so you can't use a crosshead screwdriver.
And if you use a flat head it needs to be really wide but also thin to fit in the grooves without putting the torque in the weak centre.
I borrowed the one off my 335d to bleed it and then replaced both cars with brass ones
I've bled the system before but this time I wasn't happy with the heat coming out of the vents, it was probably the scare stories of the M54 being difficult to bleed.
One suggestion was to raise the front - I couldn't be bothered to jack it up so found a nearby incline instead.
I think the drive probably did the job though as it was fine when I got there!
I worked out how many miles it's done this year and i'm genuinely embarrassed… need to drive it more, pandemic dependant.
Thought it was just lack of use, so took it out later and it was fine.
Stopped on the way back to make a phone call and noticed the roof wouldn't go up. And then the power steering stopped working again.
Very luckily I wasn't far from home, started to run poorly before eventually conking out on the drive.
Although it was on the drive, unfortunately it was blocking my other car - and had the roof down - so I tried jumping it and it started fine.
With the engine running, the problem is obvious
Airbox out
Alternator off
I thought it'd be a straight replacement, but it was a bit more expensive than I was expecting - the fitment is unique to the Z4, but I suspect any M54 one would fit - even then it was £130 for the cheapest recon unit.
I took a chance and replaced just the voltage regulator for £30.
And sucess
Unfortunately, while poking around I found a suspicious coolant puddle on the undertray
First thought was the expansion tank, so I pulled that out to find out it'd already been replaced in 2015 (that was in the service history, ooops).
I noticed the seals on the expansion tank cap were looking a bit worn out, but that wouldn't explain that much coolant.
Some more poking around and I spotted a little bit of coolant around the temperature sensor
Pulled it out and it looks fine
Having looked online they never leak... unless they've been in there a while, then if they are ever removed they never seal again.
I removed it when doing the VANOS seals so fair enough.
The O-Ring isn't a separate part, and all the measurements I could fine online were imperial, so I got a new one for £15.
I originally thought the leak was from the thermostat above, but although I'd realised it wasn't, I got a brand new Wahler one on eBay for £15 so I thought I'd change it anyway.
The bolts were really rusty, and there was coolant stains around the outside of the gasket so I think it has been leaking for a while, although probably not badly. And obviously new bolts too.
Baby monitor makes nap time, car time
Put it all back together, trying to bleed the system and the stupid plastic bleed screw rounded
I get why it's plastic, and i'm probably guilty of overtightening it slightly, but I think the real problem is that I don't know what tool is best to use on it.
It's a cross head, but no depth so you can't use a crosshead screwdriver.
And if you use a flat head it needs to be really wide but also thin to fit in the grooves without putting the torque in the weak centre.
I borrowed the one off my 335d to bleed it and then replaced both cars with brass ones
I've bled the system before but this time I wasn't happy with the heat coming out of the vents, it was probably the scare stories of the M54 being difficult to bleed.
One suggestion was to raise the front - I couldn't be bothered to jack it up so found a nearby incline instead.
I think the drive probably did the job though as it was fine when I got there!
I worked out how many miles it's done this year and i'm genuinely embarrassed… need to drive it more, pandemic dependant.
Edited by Jakg on Saturday 27th January 20:19
helix402 said:
LosingGrip said:
I’m half tempted by one, although the one I’ve looked at is auto.
What are they like for tall people? I’m 6ft 4 and not sure if I’ll be able to drive it comfortably.
You’ll fit. What are they like for tall people? I’m 6ft 4 and not sure if I’ll be able to drive it comfortably.
I can't fit in one at all, but I'm 6ft 4 and 22 stone.
Even a lot lighter at 18stone I couldn't fit in one comfortable enough to drive more than a spirited drive...
d_a_n1979 said:
Depends on your build.
I can't fit in one at all, but I'm 6ft 4 and 22 stone.
Even a lot lighter at 18stone I couldn't fit in one comfortable enough to drive more than a spirited drive...
Ah I’m the same weight give or take. Will see if I’m allowed to test drive one with COVID etc. I can't fit in one at all, but I'm 6ft 4 and 22 stone.
Even a lot lighter at 18stone I couldn't fit in one comfortable enough to drive more than a spirited drive...
LosingGrip said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Depends on your build.
I can't fit in one at all, but I'm 6ft 4 and 22 stone.
Even a lot lighter at 18stone I couldn't fit in one comfortable enough to drive more than a spirited drive...
Ah I’m the same weight give or take. Will see if I’m allowed to test drive one with COVID etc. I can't fit in one at all, but I'm 6ft 4 and 22 stone.
Even a lot lighter at 18stone I couldn't fit in one comfortable enough to drive more than a spirited drive...
I'm a competitive powerlifter and stone lifter, so it's my build that makes it awkward for me unfortunately...
Sports seats were hellish but I managed Edinburgh to the Nurburgring for 8 laps and back 10 years ago and I was 6ft 2" and 22 stone then. I'm broad as well as a bit husky but it was the legs that killed me, had to replace the door handle trims as my knees rubbed off them the whole trip.
LosingGrip said:
I’m half tempted by one, although the one I’ve looked at is auto.
What are they like for tall people? I’m 6ft 4 and not sure if I’ll be able to drive it comfortably.
I'm 6'5 and I fit, albeit it can get a bit uncomfy for longer journeys. If you're anywhere near Surrey/Hants border you're welcome to try mine (once I sort the squeaky steering!)What are they like for tall people? I’m 6ft 4 and not sure if I’ll be able to drive it comfortably.
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