Jade green Mk2 Golf GTI 16v - project
Discussion
Julian Thompson said:
Great work.
Might i introduce you to the wonders of “evaporust”.
It’s a non toxic, non acid product that you can bath parts in. It doesn’t turn the rust to oxide like Kurust. It actually dissolves the rust. Depending on how much rust is there it can take a few days, but here is an example. This part had NO treatment or buffing - straight out of the bath.
And this disc, again, straight soak:
That stuff does look the business. I follow Hand Tool Rescue on YouTube so I’ve seen it in action a lot! Definitely going to order a big tub of it.Might i introduce you to the wonders of “evaporust”.
It’s a non toxic, non acid product that you can bath parts in. It doesn’t turn the rust to oxide like Kurust. It actually dissolves the rust. Depending on how much rust is there it can take a few days, but here is an example. This part had NO treatment or buffing - straight out of the bath.
And this disc, again, straight soak:
Another hour lost to the garage time machine!!
I’m really enjoying the slow progress needed when bashing metal. I just wish I got more time to sit there doing it, I’ve got rather a lot of patches to make.
Considering buying a lead loading kit to see how smooth I can get the metal before whacking a skim of filler over it all.
I’m really enjoying the slow progress needed when bashing metal. I just wish I got more time to sit there doing it, I’ve got rather a lot of patches to make.
Considering buying a lead loading kit to see how smooth I can get the metal before whacking a skim of filler over it all.
More stripping down
Started thinking about the arches, sill and rear quarter.
I’m not going to do any welding until I’ve got the car up on the rollover jig and get a lot more of the paint and under seal ground back to show the full extent of the corrosion.
The plan is to use as little of those repair panels as possible. I’ll find the edge of the rust and cut it back just beyond that. Hopefully get my weld on the arch behind where the trim will sit.
Started thinking about the arches, sill and rear quarter.
I’m not going to do any welding until I’ve got the car up on the rollover jig and get a lot more of the paint and under seal ground back to show the full extent of the corrosion.
The plan is to use as little of those repair panels as possible. I’ll find the edge of the rust and cut it back just beyond that. Hopefully get my weld on the arch behind where the trim will sit.
Looks like I’m taking it back to a bare shell to fix some tricky areas of corrosion. The windscreen lower surround/scuttle will need to be deseamed and removed so I can fix a hole where the accelerator cable comes through from the top of the pedal.
I also need to remove the engine bay wiring harness and brake accumulator so that I can fully weld in the new chassis leg closing plate.
With that all in mind, I’m busy getting busy. I need to start taking some notes and not just relying on a picture diary.
I also need to remove the engine bay wiring harness and brake accumulator so that I can fully weld in the new chassis leg closing plate.
With that all in mind, I’m busy getting busy. I need to start taking some notes and not just relying on a picture diary.
Those two pictures are in the wrong order. The heater hoses that poke through the bulkhead are gone as I've taken the complete airbox/heater assembly out from the interior.
The brake accumulator is now out also. Getting the little clip off the end of the pivot pin on the top of the pedal was quite awkward due to access, but, it's out.
I now need to pull the wiring harness out of the engine bay and remove the hard plastic fuel lines as they sit right near where I need to weld up the chassis leg.
The brake accumulator is now out also. Getting the little clip off the end of the pivot pin on the top of the pedal was quite awkward due to access, but, it's out.
I now need to pull the wiring harness out of the engine bay and remove the hard plastic fuel lines as they sit right near where I need to weld up the chassis leg.
_Mja_ said:
Strong progress. 2 years is a good estimate and it will all come together quickly once you get all the welding bits done - I like your idea of getting it on a jig and then focusing the welding.
I'm slightly nervous about managing to get all the wiring out in a state that I'll remember how to put it back in 2 years, but I've got no upper time limit and the car is safe and warm in the garage so I can take my time to get it right I guess.When I first picked up the project I was thinking that I'd be able to keep at least some of the original paint, there's not a chance of that now!
SHutchinson said:
I'm slightly nervous about managing to get all the wiring out in a state that I'll remember how to put it back in 2 years
Keep the faithThinking back, the most difficult part is the run of cables to the column switches and other switches close to the column
Plenty of pictures is definitely the way forward
_Mja_ said:
Yes lots of pics and labelling. Also take the time to re-wrap it and you can repair and faulty wiring for abother 30 years trouble free motoring!
Funnily enough I'm unpicking and planning to repair the bodged in alarm. Not sure it'll ever live outside long enough to need an alarm in the future so I'm good to leave it without one.Mr Tidy said:
Some good progress but you are definitely in it for the long haul, so good luck. 
I doubt it is relevant now, but back in 1996 or so I got a recall on my 1986 MK2 GTi 16V for the heater matrix - apparently they were prone to giving people a hot foot bath!
I dropped the fuel tank last night which felt like another big step to getting it back to a bare shell. Yeah, I’m into this for the foreseeable! Might take a few days off work and line up a good run of work to get a solid push.I doubt it is relevant now, but back in 1996 or so I got a recall on my 1986 MK2 GTi 16V for the heater matrix - apparently they were prone to giving people a hot foot bath!
I’ve got the heater assembly out already, a new matrix is on my shopping list.
Another hour in the time machine.
Drilled the spot welds out then took a cold chisel to the reluctant bits. Need to get in and somehow drill the two spot welds out of the bulkhead so that I can tease the rusty flap of metal out. Once that’s done it needs a really decent grind back, clean out, rust treat, epoxy primer and a coat of weld through primer.
Then ……. the new panels will get plug welded in.
Drilled the spot welds out then took a cold chisel to the reluctant bits. Need to get in and somehow drill the two spot welds out of the bulkhead so that I can tease the rusty flap of metal out. Once that’s done it needs a really decent grind back, clean out, rust treat, epoxy primer and a coat of weld through primer.
Then ……. the new panels will get plug welded in.
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