'67 Camaro RS/SS - saved from the scrapman
Discussion
fred bloggs said:
Nice work.
I too have an LS 1
It’s 442 bhp with a cam and the throttle bodies ,standard 853 heads. Haltech ecu
Are you going with a standard engine or pepping it up a bit ? I may have a 230/236 112 cam spare soon.
I bet that sounds absolutely bloody marvellous!I too have an LS 1
It’s 442 bhp with a cam and the throttle bodies ,standard 853 heads. Haltech ecu
Are you going with a standard engine or pepping it up a bit ? I may have a 230/236 112 cam spare soon.
Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 8th March 10:12
Engine titivation continues. Not difficult, just time consuming and occasionally tricky around areas that might let dirt enter.
E.g. intake side of cylinder head before cleaning - actually that statement isn't entirely true, the lower section has already had substantial cleaning prior to removing the valley cover and fitting the lift plate, but the accumulation around the head bolt gives some indication of what it all looked like to start!
After cleaning and lightly sanding with a flat plate. Some areas of corrosion remain but they aren't too deep so hopefully nice soft new intake gaskets will deal with them.
I put a scrunched up cloth down each intake port and sealed around the edge of it with thick grease prior to sanding to keep the grit out. That approach seems to have been successful, and not looking bad in there for untouched at 237k miles!
The destructions included with the new Holley sump recommended cleaning prior to installation. The sump was sealed in a bag at the factory and looked pristine. Better safe than sorry, I stood it in a perfectly clean enamel tray and proceeded to spray it down inside and out with brake cleaner. After the first pass
Yes that is casting sand, and a lot of it...
After cleaning the tray, a second spray down...
After a third spray virtually nothing more appeared in the tray. After my efforts trying to keep cleaning grit out of the engine, I'm glad I'm not bolting that little lot on in the sump!
Removing the rear cover, cleaning it and bolting back on with a new gasket was straightforward, lined up ready for a new rear crank seal.
"Replace the pilot bearing whilst you have access" they said. "It'll be fun" they said.
Purchased a fairly expensive Gedore puller specifically for this job and destroyed it within five minutes. The bruising on my hand shows how much effort was applied to the slide hammer with not 1mm of movement to show for it.
After this I tried modifying the broken puller to gain better purchase on the bearing. That modification also failed within one minute.
After this I put a carbide burr in the Dremel and put some slots in the outer face, trying not to go quite as far out as the crank. I couldn't cut full width as the bearing race was harder that the burr and dulled the first one. I was then able to chisel out chunks of the bearing outer face, at which point I could get the chisel under the race and prise / hammer it into submission. With the race out of the way I could finally cut full width, and chisel a section of outer casing free. This released tension and the remainder pulled out easily.
Above represents about four hours over two evenings. Just hope the brutality applied to the end of the crank hasn't had any adverse affects...
Visually the crank only had one insignificant score mark where the bearing seats and the new one tapped in nicely.
Next - fit the new sump.
E.g. intake side of cylinder head before cleaning - actually that statement isn't entirely true, the lower section has already had substantial cleaning prior to removing the valley cover and fitting the lift plate, but the accumulation around the head bolt gives some indication of what it all looked like to start!
After cleaning and lightly sanding with a flat plate. Some areas of corrosion remain but they aren't too deep so hopefully nice soft new intake gaskets will deal with them.
I put a scrunched up cloth down each intake port and sealed around the edge of it with thick grease prior to sanding to keep the grit out. That approach seems to have been successful, and not looking bad in there for untouched at 237k miles!
The destructions included with the new Holley sump recommended cleaning prior to installation. The sump was sealed in a bag at the factory and looked pristine. Better safe than sorry, I stood it in a perfectly clean enamel tray and proceeded to spray it down inside and out with brake cleaner. After the first pass
Yes that is casting sand, and a lot of it...
After cleaning the tray, a second spray down...
After a third spray virtually nothing more appeared in the tray. After my efforts trying to keep cleaning grit out of the engine, I'm glad I'm not bolting that little lot on in the sump!
Removing the rear cover, cleaning it and bolting back on with a new gasket was straightforward, lined up ready for a new rear crank seal.
"Replace the pilot bearing whilst you have access" they said. "It'll be fun" they said.
Purchased a fairly expensive Gedore puller specifically for this job and destroyed it within five minutes. The bruising on my hand shows how much effort was applied to the slide hammer with not 1mm of movement to show for it.
After this I tried modifying the broken puller to gain better purchase on the bearing. That modification also failed within one minute.
After this I put a carbide burr in the Dremel and put some slots in the outer face, trying not to go quite as far out as the crank. I couldn't cut full width as the bearing race was harder that the burr and dulled the first one. I was then able to chisel out chunks of the bearing outer face, at which point I could get the chisel under the race and prise / hammer it into submission. With the race out of the way I could finally cut full width, and chisel a section of outer casing free. This released tension and the remainder pulled out easily.
Above represents about four hours over two evenings. Just hope the brutality applied to the end of the crank hasn't had any adverse affects...
Visually the crank only had one insignificant score mark where the bearing seats and the new one tapped in nicely.
Next - fit the new sump.
After fighting the pilot bearing, I was hoping that fitting the new sump would be straightforward, and mostly it was.
First up, modify and fit an f-body windage tray (remove one corner to clear the Holley oil pickup). Then fit the pickup.
Then it was a case of checking everything cleared ok when rotated, which it did.
New gasket, blob of sealant in each corner and snug down with nice shiny ARP stainless fasteners.
Dead easy - almost. For some reason the long rear bolts supplied by ARP, whilst the same overall length as stock, have a good 10mm less thread. And that matters.
Basically they run out of thread before the head makes contact with the sump.
Not much I could do but reuse the stock bolts which were in decent condition, fortunately. Bit annoying when everything else in the area looks (is) new!
Ok, only the head will be visible once the gearbox is reattached and not exactly something anyone will see once in the car but still...
Not good enough given what they charge for a handful of bolts...
First up, modify and fit an f-body windage tray (remove one corner to clear the Holley oil pickup). Then fit the pickup.
Then it was a case of checking everything cleared ok when rotated, which it did.
New gasket, blob of sealant in each corner and snug down with nice shiny ARP stainless fasteners.
Dead easy - almost. For some reason the long rear bolts supplied by ARP, whilst the same overall length as stock, have a good 10mm less thread. And that matters.
Basically they run out of thread before the head makes contact with the sump.
Not much I could do but reuse the stock bolts which were in decent condition, fortunately. Bit annoying when everything else in the area looks (is) new!
Ok, only the head will be visible once the gearbox is reattached and not exactly something anyone will see once in the car but still...
Not good enough given what they charge for a handful of bolts...
99t said:
After fighting the pilot bearing, I was hoping that fitting the new sump would be straightforward, and mostly it was.
First up, modify and fit an f-body windage tray (remove one corner to clear the Holley oil pickup). Then fit the pickup.
Then it was a case of checking everything cleared ok when rotated, which it did.
New gasket, blob of sealant in each corner and snug down with nice shiny ARP stainless fasteners.
Dead easy - almost. For some reason the long rear bolts supplied by ARP, whilst the same overall length as stock, have a good 10mm less thread. And that matters.
Basically they run out of thread before the head makes contact with the sump.
Not much I could do but reuse the stock bolts which were in decent condition, fortunately. Bit annoying when everything else in the area looks (is) new!
Ok, only the head will be visible once the gearbox is reattached and not exactly something anyone will see once in the car but still...
Not good enough given what they charge for a handful of bolts...
I have just fitted a pack via Summit of ARP stainless bolts for the Hooker headers on my 68 Big Block. XThe ones that were used when the 468cu. engine was originally built, were too short. First up, modify and fit an f-body windage tray (remove one corner to clear the Holley oil pickup). Then fit the pickup.
Then it was a case of checking everything cleared ok when rotated, which it did.
New gasket, blob of sealant in each corner and snug down with nice shiny ARP stainless fasteners.
Dead easy - almost. For some reason the long rear bolts supplied by ARP, whilst the same overall length as stock, have a good 10mm less thread. And that matters.
Basically they run out of thread before the head makes contact with the sump.
Not much I could do but reuse the stock bolts which were in decent condition, fortunately. Bit annoying when everything else in the area looks (is) new!
Ok, only the head will be visible once the gearbox is reattached and not exactly something anyone will see once in the car but still...
Not good enough given what they charge for a handful of bolts...
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