Jaguar xjc 4.2
Discussion
Today’s efforts were thwarted by the bonnet release lever. Thinking of modern cars I assumed it was in a lower position than what it actually is. To fit it I had to dismantle the entire driver side heater unit for access to a single nut to remove the end bracket to which the lever fits. The bonnet release catches were then installed with all the appropriate brackets etc. It feels like many years ago since I rebuilt those catches. I kept them in the plated finish rather than paint. Looks a bit more detailed I thought
Then more trials and tribulations fitting the all important manual gearbox pedal box. That involved removing the steering column support that I had fitted last week, dismantled today, reassembled then found it bolts up after fitting the pedal box………lots of expletives today!
Lots of sealant under the mating face on this as originally it used a rubber gasket. That gasket had perished and was unusable and the bottom of the aluminium casting was not flat due to corrosion over the years. Hence the reason I etch primed the aluminium casting and then painted black to hopefully stop any future corrosion. Looks good in a black finish especially as the servo is black. The sealant is a loctite item used to seal the new engine sumps of the Ford engines that used to be built in the Bridgend engine plant.
Then more trials and tribulations fitting the all important manual gearbox pedal box. That involved removing the steering column support that I had fitted last week, dismantled today, reassembled then found it bolts up after fitting the pedal box………lots of expletives today!
Lots of sealant under the mating face on this as originally it used a rubber gasket. That gasket had perished and was unusable and the bottom of the aluminium casting was not flat due to corrosion over the years. Hence the reason I etch primed the aluminium casting and then painted black to hopefully stop any future corrosion. Looks good in a black finish especially as the servo is black. The sealant is a loctite item used to seal the new engine sumps of the Ford engines that used to be built in the Bridgend engine plant.
carinaman said:
The plating looks good to me. I am liking the shiny new servo with a correct looking sticker on it. The diamond quilt effect looks OK on the pedal rubbers. 
Not sure how long the plating will stay corrosion free but it’s not difficult to re-finish in the future. The servo sticker I found on the flea-bay. The original had been painted over with hammerite way back and only found it when I stripped the paint off to re-finish the original servo. The brake master cylinder is also the original but re-finished. I used a gold colour paint to mimic the plated original which doesn’t last very long on cast iron, hence the painted finish.I did fit a new brake fluid reservoir. I think I showed pictures of the pedal box about 3 years ago lol. Time flies when rebuilding a classic
Those pedals to stitch in rubber was hard work!
The past few days I have concentrated on the engine bay wiring and the mechanical parts it connects too. Most of Friday was threading cables in behind the wiper motor position. Picture wise it doesn’t look much but took a fair few hours cleaning earth connections and generally getting things look right and neat. The interior hasn’t moved on as much as I had hoped mainly reassembling what I had previously s as l ready built but missed bits. Still, steering column is there, pedal box also, the natty fresh air vents are also sealed and fitted. Currently it’s taken me 44hrs to get this far. Interior wise I think it will come together a little quicker as it’s one main loom from the centre console to the rear lights with all the spurs branching off accordingly. Probably be eating my words next week lol
Couple more pictures below. First the fresh air vent. One each side tucked into the left and right footwell.
You can just see the wiper motor installed here along with a lonely looking washer pump. There are 3 main loom cable connections in this position hence it took a while getting it all in position.
Lastly I’ve offered up the replacement radiator expansion tank I made a very long time ago. It’s a very snug fit with the plastic washer bottle container. I’m not happy with the stainless finish of the washer bottle so I think will prep it and spray it gloss black as per the original. The original rotted away with rust hence I made a new one in stainless steel.
Just waiting for the top radiator panel to be finished in body colour. I had it galvanised a while back and wasn’t sure to have it black again or body colour. I Plumped for body colour.
Once that’s fitted the radiator and oil cooler can go it and then finish off the engine build along with all the rubber hose and pipes.
Above a boring picture but oh my the effort needed to thread the wiring from the a pillar into the door. The rubber conduit is from a classic Range Rover. It’s a bigger diameter to help thread the wiring through although didn’t seem like it earlier. The original Jaguar conduits had simply perished and fell to bits.
Below showing the tail light wiring all run. Lovely original retractable radio aerial fitted. The motor to push and retract the aerial is a separate unit mounted in the boot between the fuel pumps. The wiring for the new fuel pumps also altered slightly, basically lengthened to run into the boot rather than the original in tank fuel pumps.
Once the fuel tanks are fitted the modified fuel pipes to the pumps can be completed. Things are getting closer to a running engine.
Been a bit of a delay the last few weeks as I needed some repair work completed on the winter car. Had a poke at a bit of rust that turned into a hole. Usual stuff. Sometimes I wish my hobby was model cars instead of full size.
So money went to fix that rather than the xjc.
I’ve ordered a few gaskets to fit the exterior light units. They are packed away waiting. Still nil stock on the leather hide I’m after for the interior. I’m actually considering a mulberry red now.
So money went to fix that rather than the xjc.
I’ve ordered a few gaskets to fit the exterior light units. They are packed away waiting. Still nil stock on the leather hide I’m after for the interior. I’m actually considering a mulberry red now.
Last few panels painted.
The tank covers were prepped ready to paint a while back but needed fettling to fit correctly due to bolts cross threading into the panel holes and a couple of other issues. The under bonnet radiator panel is now body colour and lastly the valance panel which is a pattern part obviously didn’t fit so more fettling and has had the flanged joins seam welded to create a one piece panel. Subtle mods again but creates a better finish I think.
Pictures below are snapshots from a video so please excuse any lack of clarity
Above showing the prop shaft fitted. I wasn’t going to clean and paint it so the restorer did as he couldn’t fit a dirty part to a clean underside.
Below is the beginning of the new exhaust system. The two pipes from the bottom of the exhaust manifold need to be extended to allow the twin pipes to curve behind the gearbox and allow another 2 extensions to connect to the over axle pipes and rear silencers.
Hopefully the pictures give an idea of what’s needed.
Above showing the prop shaft fitted. I wasn’t going to clean and paint it so the restorer did as he couldn’t fit a dirty part to a clean underside.
Below is the beginning of the new exhaust system. The two pipes from the bottom of the exhaust manifold need to be extended to allow the twin pipes to curve behind the gearbox and allow another 2 extensions to connect to the over axle pipes and rear silencers.
Hopefully the pictures give an idea of what’s needed.
Yep getting close but still irritating issues to solve
Picture showing the through axle exhaust pipe mounting flange fouling on the rear anti-roll bar.
Only way I can see to fix this is cut and shut the exhaust pipes to move the joining flange out of the axle to give clearance. Looks like the exhaust is going to be a bit more custom.
Also looking at brake lines, I’m running rear outboard discs with metric fittings into the calipers with imperial fittings up front. So a regular kit won’t do. So more custom pipes are required or I should say mix and match fittings.
Picture showing the through axle exhaust pipe mounting flange fouling on the rear anti-roll bar.
Only way I can see to fix this is cut and shut the exhaust pipes to move the joining flange out of the axle to give clearance. Looks like the exhaust is going to be a bit more custom.
Also looking at brake lines, I’m running rear outboard discs with metric fittings into the calipers with imperial fittings up front. So a regular kit won’t do. So more custom pipes are required or I should say mix and match fittings.
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