E46 330i Touring
Discussion
Riek said:
the most recent M539 restorations video where he's uprating his E46 touring for track use has him using a slide with a nylon bush in it that might be a good middle ground between the OE rubber and solid metal.
it's this one i believe
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/Caliper-Parts/R...
That is interesting, and much more palatable on the wallet it's this one i believe
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/Caliper-Parts/R...
I haven't got to this video yet.. Court_S said:
Certainly looks and sounds like you’re getting there with it. Should drive really nicely after all of this work and effort.
Missed this yesterday.. Cheers.. I really do hope so on both accounts! Time for your "daily" progress report for those that are still following
A photo of a new caliper on the car.. For the rear, imagine the same, but a bit smaller and a rear arm in the background..
Rain interfered a bit last night, laying on the wet ground wasn't that fun, mats were dry initially then also got wet. However, both calipers fitted and just gravity bled for now as I didn't want to be working inside the car wet and mucky, also ran out of time. Driver's rack boot fitted and tie rod then done up properly.
I just need to go round and button up a few small bits, a missing clip from Cotswolds has arrive, gaiters need the retaining rings fitting, but I need to find a tool to do that, and the boot trim needs reassembly once I can confirm no knocks/rattles etc.
2 side quests - CDV removal and my exhaust valve has stuck shut, it's jammed. Where the vacuum line is perished so that has also snapped, so I need to find the valve it goes to and blank that off and get the butterfly turned to permanently open..
So it looks like my Saturday will be doing all the finishing with the rugby in the background. Then after a pic of it on the alignment machine and a few pics after that should conclude my updates for a while.. Hopefully
Move over "Shed of the week" this is the Friday update you have all been waiting for..
Be gone foul CDV!
Rack boots are now on and crimped up.
So, couple of little odds and sods outstanding (OSR brake line retaining clip needs fitting), I might whack a bit of sound deadening in the spare wheel well whilst it is apart and tomorrow will be a day of brake/clutch bleeding and measuring bits of string...
Be gone foul CDV!
Rack boots are now on and crimped up.
So, couple of little odds and sods outstanding (OSR brake line retaining clip needs fitting), I might whack a bit of sound deadening in the spare wheel well whilst it is apart and tomorrow will be a day of brake/clutch bleeding and measuring bits of string...
Trying to save myself some time..
Does anyone know where the vacuum line for the exhaust valve terminates? Or in other words where the electric valve it goes to is located? I need to blank that off, the vacuum line is very perished, so any attempt to block it, it just crumbles.
Does anyone know where the vacuum line for the exhaust valve terminates? Or in other words where the electric valve it goes to is located? I need to blank that off, the vacuum line is very perished, so any attempt to block it, it just crumbles.
Edited by Jhonno on Friday 13th October 10:55
Court_S said:
Jhonno said:
Move over "Shed of the week" this is the Friday update you have all been waiting for..
Be gone foul CDV!
Rack boots are now on and crimped up.
So, couple of little odds and sods outstanding (OSR brake line retaining clip needs fitting), I might whack a bit of sound deadening in the spare wheel well whilst it is apart and tomorrow will be a day of brake/clutch bleeding and measuring bits of string...
Good work; hateful little bBe gone foul CDV!
Rack boots are now on and crimped up.
So, couple of little odds and sods outstanding (OSR brake line retaining clip needs fitting), I might whack a bit of sound deadening in the spare wheel well whilst it is apart and tomorrow will be a day of brake/clutch bleeding and measuring bits of string...
ds. Mine didn’t want to come out on the 330i and I ended up removing the hard line from the master cylinder because it was so stuck on. My clutch bleed needs a bit more work but it’s a pain in the arse.I'm going to dig out my pressure bleeder to assist..
Court_S said:
Jhonno said:
Riek said:
the hose runs to a solenoid somewhere in the boot rather than all the way back to the engine bay.
Brilliant.. That is what I was hoping to hear,Court_S said:
Jhonno said:
It was the one hydraulic line that came undone properly on mine
I'm going to dig out my pressure bleeder to assist..
I got caught out by the teeny, tiny clutch reservoir and added loads of air….which was nice. The 7mm bleed nipple is in a stupid place to reach as well.I'm going to dig out my pressure bleeder to assist..
I though the E46 shared the brake and clutch reservoir together.
I know, I know.. 2 whole days without an update!
The plan for the weekend was to get this buttoned up and back on the road, I was running low on fuel in the MX-5 and this has nearly a full tank.
First up was brake bleeding.. I dug out my pressure bleeder and found a spare wheel and tyre and chucked 22psi in there..
I think that was due a change..
I bled just the reservoir to begin with to get the air out, and then once that got low I went around again with fresh fluid added. I used the correct, but lesser known SL6 fluid that these DSC systems are supposed to run.
Next up was the exhaust valve. Thanks for the pointers, the valve was exactly where you guys said. I disconnected it and left it with the feed line connected. The butterfly itself was very stuck. It bent before it moved, but finally cracked off using a 1/2 extension bar down the exhaust and a lump hammer. I then straightened the butterfly as best as possible.
Then I moved on to alignment..
A lot of measuring, contending with "f%$king wind", as it was called at the time, and tweaking.. First few attempts were driveable but the steering wheel was on the cock to varying degrees and ways. I had to call it a night after 2 goes on Saturday, before picking it up again on Sunday. I realised after a couple of goes, I needed to get the rear right first then worry about the front. So I ended up setting the rear toe to about 2mm total then going to the front. I wont bore too much, but will say adjusting rear camber has a large effect on toe, and I also realised it was binding up on the tyres so I ended up making an adjustment and then rolling the car forwards and back 10" or so, recheck the strings being square and then measure the toe again.
I know most do alignment in degrees, but I only had a rule, so worked in mm.. I think if I did maffs right, 1.5mm total front and 2mm total rear is slightly less than OE, which is what I wanted.
The test drives also highlighted there was still air in the brakes, so I ended up kicking the ABS in on grass and trying again. I got some more bubbles out. Then on subsequent test drives the ABS randomly kicked in on braking, so I bled them again and got some more air out. I think after the 3rd attempt the ABS kicked in again randomly but the brake pedal felt a bit different after, so back for a 4th bleed and I got a big bubble out the NSF and some little ones out the NSR and then on the next drive the pedal felt good. Not perfect but good, I wondered if the pads are now letting it down.
Anyway.. Back to the alignment, after about the 6th attempt, I took it out and by gum, it drove straight, the wheel was straight and there still wasn't any funny noises of bits falling off.. However, seeing as it was time for the rugby I had to break off. Although really all that remained was undertrays to put back on, boot to tidy up, and a final check over..
Still all needs to settle in, but couldn't miss the photo op!
After the England game I took it for a 15 min drive to shake it down and see whether my efforts had been worthwhile, and the short version is. Definitely. It is quieter/smoother, handling is much more pointy and the front end doesn't push on. It rides really well, firm but smoother than the 120k/20yr old OE setup. The steering feels smoother, and less of a dead spot around centre, the clutch is smoother/lighter and the brakes feel loads better, much improved feel, and it feels like are working better, pulling it up sharper, with a firmer pedal. Exhaust is a tiny bit noisier, but I'd like a decent stainless backbox at some point.
It got me to work OK (well, it was a fun drive!) this morning, and I'll run it round this week check nothing is going to fall off and let it settle a bit, then I am off to Budapest for a mate's stag this weekend, so I will worry about the alignment after that. I'm hoping I have got it set well enough that it isn't going to chew tyres up, they don't feel like they have any hot spots after driving..
The plan for the weekend was to get this buttoned up and back on the road, I was running low on fuel in the MX-5 and this has nearly a full tank.
First up was brake bleeding.. I dug out my pressure bleeder and found a spare wheel and tyre and chucked 22psi in there..
I think that was due a change..
I bled just the reservoir to begin with to get the air out, and then once that got low I went around again with fresh fluid added. I used the correct, but lesser known SL6 fluid that these DSC systems are supposed to run.
Next up was the exhaust valve. Thanks for the pointers, the valve was exactly where you guys said. I disconnected it and left it with the feed line connected. The butterfly itself was very stuck. It bent before it moved, but finally cracked off using a 1/2 extension bar down the exhaust and a lump hammer. I then straightened the butterfly as best as possible.
Then I moved on to alignment..
A lot of measuring, contending with "f%$king wind", as it was called at the time, and tweaking.. First few attempts were driveable but the steering wheel was on the cock to varying degrees and ways. I had to call it a night after 2 goes on Saturday, before picking it up again on Sunday. I realised after a couple of goes, I needed to get the rear right first then worry about the front. So I ended up setting the rear toe to about 2mm total then going to the front. I wont bore too much, but will say adjusting rear camber has a large effect on toe, and I also realised it was binding up on the tyres so I ended up making an adjustment and then rolling the car forwards and back 10" or so, recheck the strings being square and then measure the toe again.
I know most do alignment in degrees, but I only had a rule, so worked in mm.. I think if I did maffs right, 1.5mm total front and 2mm total rear is slightly less than OE, which is what I wanted.
The test drives also highlighted there was still air in the brakes, so I ended up kicking the ABS in on grass and trying again. I got some more bubbles out. Then on subsequent test drives the ABS randomly kicked in on braking, so I bled them again and got some more air out. I think after the 3rd attempt the ABS kicked in again randomly but the brake pedal felt a bit different after, so back for a 4th bleed and I got a big bubble out the NSF and some little ones out the NSR and then on the next drive the pedal felt good. Not perfect but good, I wondered if the pads are now letting it down.
Anyway.. Back to the alignment, after about the 6th attempt, I took it out and by gum, it drove straight, the wheel was straight and there still wasn't any funny noises of bits falling off.. However, seeing as it was time for the rugby I had to break off. Although really all that remained was undertrays to put back on, boot to tidy up, and a final check over..
Still all needs to settle in, but couldn't miss the photo op!
After the England game I took it for a 15 min drive to shake it down and see whether my efforts had been worthwhile, and the short version is. Definitely. It is quieter/smoother, handling is much more pointy and the front end doesn't push on. It rides really well, firm but smoother than the 120k/20yr old OE setup. The steering feels smoother, and less of a dead spot around centre, the clutch is smoother/lighter and the brakes feel loads better, much improved feel, and it feels like are working better, pulling it up sharper, with a firmer pedal. Exhaust is a tiny bit noisier, but I'd like a decent stainless backbox at some point.
It got me to work OK (well, it was a fun drive!) this morning, and I'll run it round this week check nothing is going to fall off and let it settle a bit, then I am off to Budapest for a mate's stag this weekend, so I will worry about the alignment after that. I'm hoping I have got it set well enough that it isn't going to chew tyres up, they don't feel like they have any hot spots after driving..
Edited by Jhonno on Monday 16th October 11:44
Edited by Jhonno on Monday 16th October 11:56
Court_S said:
Good work as always, including the DIY alignment.
The E46 touring is a great looking car.
Cheers.. Yeah, it is a well proportioned handsome thing. The E46 touring is a great looking car.
d_a_n1979 said:
Good work on the DIY string-box alignment... 
I watch my pals do it at their unit and it's a dark art to me
I watch my pals do it at their unit and it's a dark art to me
It wasn't that bad, trigonometry, patience and being methodical were key. I'll probably get it checked when I get rear tyres fitted, but unless it starts chewing the tyres up I won't rush. I am hoping to get another 6 weeks out the rears (~1k miles). The knackered RCAB has chewed one up quicker than the other.
Just a couple more notes after driving home..
The clutch is so much better minus the CDV, heel and toe works much better and it's easier to be smoother generally. What on earth was the purpose of this stupid thing?!
Feels like it's all bedding in a bit now, already. Suspension feels like it is gaining some more pliability.
Weirdly, which might just be the reset ECU where the battery went flat whilst it was sat (a Deadweight so no ill effects) but it feels more urgent on the throttle. Surely that isn't opening the exhaust valve? Or maybe it's where I have been driving a 1.8 MX-5 for 3 weeks
Regardless, enjoying driving this a significant amount more than I was.. And it's not like I didn't like the thing beforehand
The clutch is so much better minus the CDV, heel and toe works much better and it's easier to be smoother generally. What on earth was the purpose of this stupid thing?!
Feels like it's all bedding in a bit now, already. Suspension feels like it is gaining some more pliability.
Weirdly, which might just be the reset ECU where the battery went flat whilst it was sat (a Deadweight so no ill effects) but it feels more urgent on the throttle. Surely that isn't opening the exhaust valve? Or maybe it's where I have been driving a 1.8 MX-5 for 3 weeks
Regardless, enjoying driving this a significant amount more than I was.. And it's not like I didn't like the thing beforehand
Mr Tidy said:
The CDV really is a pointless fitting for anyone who knows how to drive a car with a manual gearbox. 
DBW accelerators are supposed to adapt to driving style, but can be reset. Yours probably went back to the factory default after your battery die, but if it feels better that's great!
Honestly, I can't believe how much nicer it is without it. I've not driven a BMW without one for years.DBW accelerators are supposed to adapt to driving style, but can be reset. Yours probably went back to the factory default after your battery die, but if it feels better that's great!
True, I did reset it previously and mostly just noticed an smoother pedal response.. I did test it this morning on the work drag strip (old air field access road), and again, it felt like it was pulling harder mid range and up, and didn't have to try as hard to hit speeds at certain markers. I had zero expectation of feeling any difference in the engine by opening that valve, in fact it hadn't crossed my mind, but I am definitely noticing something currently. Meh, I'll mark it as over excitement. The exhaust does sound better always open, which is nice.
Edited by Jhonno on Tuesday 17th October 09:34
Random shot from Tesco car park the other night.. 200 miles in, feels like it is settling nicely. The handling is so much better, as is the ride, never mind the stance. Still not had it aligned, but it doesn't seem to be chewing tyres anymore and it's driving well on my string alignment. I'll save it for when I get the rear tyres changed.
Clean MOT pass today after the washers stopped working last night.. Grabbed a spare nozzle and solved it at 10pm. That one was leaking anyway. It had a pair of Goodyear Asymmetric 6's on the rear 2 weeks ago, the old tyres lasted longer than I thought after sorting the bushes.
Needs a new level sensor on the rear, but fixed with WD40 and a cable tie for now.
Insurance went up 30% this year, road tax is now >£400 a year for a ULEZ compliant car, but it's still driving really well. I had the alignment done, my string alignment was actually pretty damn close and I had zero thrust angle, I have ended up with 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front for reference..
Next job to sort is the new cam cover gasket started leaking again already. Will get that done this month.
Needs a new level sensor on the rear, but fixed with WD40 and a cable tie for now.
Insurance went up 30% this year, road tax is now >£400 a year for a ULEZ compliant car, but it's still driving really well. I had the alignment done, my string alignment was actually pretty damn close and I had zero thrust angle, I have ended up with 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front for reference..
Next job to sort is the new cam cover gasket started leaking again already. Will get that done this month.
A bit of an update
It's been a slightly eventful period, it's had a ride on a low loader, run out of fuel, blown damper..
Cam cover gasket has been done and no longer leaks, oil usage has subsequently reduced.
I went to Loughborough to pick up a crank for the Mustang and it ran out of electricity as the alternator brushes were worn down to a nub and the slip ring was worn well undersized.
Whilst it was sat awaiting an alternator I noticed a puddle of oil under the rear wheel, which I had thought was rain, turns out the 6 month old B8 had blown.
Then this weekend just gone, was off to see family and it cut out and then went off a roundabout, weird.. Thinking it was a throttle issue I nursed it and went through the back way rather than the M1.. A few miles later it was doing it more, so a thought passed through my head, I wonder if the fuel gauge is lying (saying I had 60 miles, fuel light had literally just come on).. I'll stick £10 in it and see.. Sadly fuel stations were non existent, and a few miles from my destination it conked out in a manner that made me think it had actually run out of fuel.. A quick call to my cousin and a short while later a can of petrol arrived and it fired right up.
So potentially needs a new sender..
Also, does anyone know how the wiring for the boot open sensor works? Mine reads permanently open, boot lights work as they should, wiper doesn't work. I'm going to replace the main lock actuator as it's missing the knob which connects it to the actual lock, so god knows how that works still. Ironically on the way back from the family gathering, the boot lights randomly came on whilst driving home..
It's been a slightly eventful period, it's had a ride on a low loader, run out of fuel, blown damper..
Cam cover gasket has been done and no longer leaks, oil usage has subsequently reduced.
I went to Loughborough to pick up a crank for the Mustang and it ran out of electricity as the alternator brushes were worn down to a nub and the slip ring was worn well undersized.
Whilst it was sat awaiting an alternator I noticed a puddle of oil under the rear wheel, which I had thought was rain, turns out the 6 month old B8 had blown.
Then this weekend just gone, was off to see family and it cut out and then went off a roundabout, weird.. Thinking it was a throttle issue I nursed it and went through the back way rather than the M1.. A few miles later it was doing it more, so a thought passed through my head, I wonder if the fuel gauge is lying (saying I had 60 miles, fuel light had literally just come on).. I'll stick £10 in it and see.. Sadly fuel stations were non existent, and a few miles from my destination it conked out in a manner that made me think it had actually run out of fuel.. A quick call to my cousin and a short while later a can of petrol arrived and it fired right up.
So potentially needs a new sender..
Also, does anyone know how the wiring for the boot open sensor works? Mine reads permanently open, boot lights work as they should, wiper doesn't work. I'm going to replace the main lock actuator as it's missing the knob which connects it to the actual lock, so god knows how that works still. Ironically on the way back from the family gathering, the boot lights randomly came on whilst driving home..
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