My mighty MX5 - 'Ring Nail
Discussion
Update time!
Well, in my previous post I mentioned that, in a previous post, I’d wanted to get the Red Nail back up and running for this year’s trip. But, due to an Audi shaped bill in my finances, I couldn’t.
Things have changed and the plan is back on the table! How, you may ask (unless you couldn’t give a s
t, then you wouldn’t have asked). The car is currently up on axle stands in my garage, surrounded by all sorts of automotive related crap and without it’s rear end – yup, it’s arseless. But due to moving house in the next couple of months, I’d have to get it rolling anyway. So, I got on the hunt for a rear subframe complete with arms and hubs to get it rolling again. I was in luck on Thursday when I found just what I was looking for. A complete, assembled subframe ready to go. So I took the trusty, 6 million dollar Audi Allroad to go and fetch it.
Oh, did I mention there was a Mk2.5 SVT MX5 attached to the subframe? 😊 It’s a 2001 1.8vvt SVT – so has a vast amount of 146bhp, a 6 speed box and a Torsen diff. As well as uprated brakes. The interior is mint, with heated leather seats, style bar, Nardi wheel and all sorts of funky trim. It really is a lovely car. The body, however, makes the Titanic look like a Delorean. The sills and chassis legs are completely rotten.
The hardtop didn’t come with it, so that was sold to someone else who turned up at the same time as me to buy it. After me telling them how to take it off and politely suggesting they wouldn’t fit it in the boot of their car, I resorted to donating them 2 of my ratchet straps to put it on their roof!
I paid the seller the agreed value, pumped up the 2 flat tyres of the MX5, hooked it up to the Audi and towed it the short distance home. Although I had to get the Green one moved to make some room (this’ll be lurking in the background in case my master plan fails and need a car to take on the trip!)
Although I had to get the Green one moved to make some room (this’ll be lurking in the background in case my master plan fails and need a car to take on the trip!)
The plan is to take the entire body off the silver one, leaving the running gear as per the pic below. Then, simply pop the body of the red one on top. How hard can it be right?
So, yeah. That’s it.
Ah – no, there’s one more minor detail. It doesn’t run
Seller had the fuel pump and fuel pump relay replaced and it worked for a bit but now isn’t again. So need to get it running and then can start the teardown in anger. I think it might be the fuel pump relay again so will get that replaced. I am now a fully qualified contortionist after reaching under the steering column to get this…
To fund this financial mistake, I need to sell a lot of the parts. I’d listed a lot of it by midday Saturday and have already sold the rear lights, carpets and drivers side wing. But the rest of the interior (bar the dash – I might use it) is for sale. This is how she stands:
List of things to do so far:
- Get the red chassis out of the garage. This itself will be a mission due to absolutely no room in any direction. But maybe I’ll borrow the hulk, or practice telekinesis or whatever.
- Strip the silver body of all the panels and interior to make it light
- Lift the silver body off and throw it in the bin
- While the chassis is bare:
o Replace timing belt, water pump, auxiliary belts, thermostat and housing, water pipes and maybe rad
o Strip all arms, polybush and hammerite some ludicrous colour
o Polybush diff and engine mounts
- Drink some beer
- Put the red body on the chassis
- Realise it doesn’t fit
- Make it fit
- Drink stronger beer
- Put in seat
- Do skidz
I’ll keep this thread updated with all things Red Nail, Silver stbox and Swiss Cheese Road Trip shenanigans for those of you who care 
- If you want to see some more pictures of the roadtrip prep, search Rotbox Industries on Facebook or Instagram 
Well, in my previous post I mentioned that, in a previous post, I’d wanted to get the Red Nail back up and running for this year’s trip. But, due to an Audi shaped bill in my finances, I couldn’t.
MikeDrop said:
Reviving this for a small update.
Me and the band of merry road trip men have agreed on what the annual Road Trip will look like for 2019.
Now, some existing readers may remember I'd planned to revive the original 'Ring Nail, the red 1990 1.6 MX5. However, there has been a rather large, Audi shaped spanner in those works (see Here), which depleted the 'Ring Nail funds.
So, work will continue on the Green 1996 VR Limited 1.8 instead. Which, kinda makes sense considering I've already fitted a roll cage and a bucket seat, some decent brakes etc.
I'll start a thread specific to the 2019 trip, but in summary:
.
BUT!Me and the band of merry road trip men have agreed on what the annual Road Trip will look like for 2019.
Now, some existing readers may remember I'd planned to revive the original 'Ring Nail, the red 1990 1.6 MX5. However, there has been a rather large, Audi shaped spanner in those works (see Here), which depleted the 'Ring Nail funds.
So, work will continue on the Green 1996 VR Limited 1.8 instead. Which, kinda makes sense considering I've already fitted a roll cage and a bucket seat, some decent brakes etc.
I'll start a thread specific to the 2019 trip, but in summary:
- South Wales to Martigny, Swiss Cheese Land
- Great St Bernards Pass: Martigny > Aosta,Italy
- Aosta,Italy > Monza > Biasca
- St Gotthards Pass: Biasca > Andermatt, Switzerland
- Furka Pass: Andermatt > Grimsel
- Grimsel > Nurburgring for a few laps
- Nurburgring > Eupen, Belgium for some karting
- Eupen > South Wales
.Things have changed and the plan is back on the table! How, you may ask (unless you couldn’t give a s
t, then you wouldn’t have asked). The car is currently up on axle stands in my garage, surrounded by all sorts of automotive related crap and without it’s rear end – yup, it’s arseless. But due to moving house in the next couple of months, I’d have to get it rolling anyway. So, I got on the hunt for a rear subframe complete with arms and hubs to get it rolling again. I was in luck on Thursday when I found just what I was looking for. A complete, assembled subframe ready to go. So I took the trusty, 6 million dollar Audi Allroad to go and fetch it. Oh, did I mention there was a Mk2.5 SVT MX5 attached to the subframe? 😊 It’s a 2001 1.8vvt SVT – so has a vast amount of 146bhp, a 6 speed box and a Torsen diff. As well as uprated brakes. The interior is mint, with heated leather seats, style bar, Nardi wheel and all sorts of funky trim. It really is a lovely car. The body, however, makes the Titanic look like a Delorean. The sills and chassis legs are completely rotten.
The hardtop didn’t come with it, so that was sold to someone else who turned up at the same time as me to buy it. After me telling them how to take it off and politely suggesting they wouldn’t fit it in the boot of their car, I resorted to donating them 2 of my ratchet straps to put it on their roof!
I paid the seller the agreed value, pumped up the 2 flat tyres of the MX5, hooked it up to the Audi and towed it the short distance home. Although I had to get the Green one moved to make some room (this’ll be lurking in the background in case my master plan fails and need a car to take on the trip!)
Although I had to get the Green one moved to make some room (this’ll be lurking in the background in case my master plan fails and need a car to take on the trip!)
The plan is to take the entire body off the silver one, leaving the running gear as per the pic below. Then, simply pop the body of the red one on top. How hard can it be right?
So, yeah. That’s it.
Ah – no, there’s one more minor detail. It doesn’t run
Seller had the fuel pump and fuel pump relay replaced and it worked for a bit but now isn’t again. So need to get it running and then can start the teardown in anger. I think it might be the fuel pump relay again so will get that replaced. I am now a fully qualified contortionist after reaching under the steering column to get this…To fund this financial mistake, I need to sell a lot of the parts. I’d listed a lot of it by midday Saturday and have already sold the rear lights, carpets and drivers side wing. But the rest of the interior (bar the dash – I might use it) is for sale. This is how she stands:
List of things to do so far:
- Get the red chassis out of the garage. This itself will be a mission due to absolutely no room in any direction. But maybe I’ll borrow the hulk, or practice telekinesis or whatever.
- Strip the silver body of all the panels and interior to make it light
- Lift the silver body off and throw it in the bin
- While the chassis is bare:
o Replace timing belt, water pump, auxiliary belts, thermostat and housing, water pipes and maybe rad
o Strip all arms, polybush and hammerite some ludicrous colour
o Polybush diff and engine mounts
- Drink some beer
- Put the red body on the chassis
- Realise it doesn’t fit
- Make it fit
- Drink stronger beer
- Put in seat
- Do skidz
I’ll keep this thread updated with all things Red Nail, Silver s
tbox and Swiss Cheese Road Trip shenanigans for those of you who care - If you want to see some more pictures of the roadtrip prep, search Rotbox Industries on Facebook or Instagram Smitters said:
Man with car that's fighting him buys another version of the same car to make life easier. That is logic and man-maths I can get behind.
I feel this is a timely moment to re-quote myself... Your missus must have the patience of a saint, or you've secretly promised her her own MX-5 at the end of all this.Oh, and seeing as you have so much MX-5 knocking about, definitely don't Google MEV Replicar. Crap name, great idea.
Smitters said:
Smitters said:
Man with car that's fighting him buys another version of the same car to make life easier. That is logic and man-maths I can get behind.
I feel this is a timely moment to re-quote myself... Your missus must have the patience of a saint, or you've secretly promised her her own MX-5 at the end of all this.Oh, and seeing as you have so much MX-5 knocking about, definitely don't Google MEV Replicar. Crap name, great idea.
She does have a patience of a saint. But more importantly, absolutely zero interest in what's in the garage or on the drive 
. Just Googled! Very nice! Maybe one day...
Superchickenn said:
*** cough cough ***
Who found this car for sale?
This is why drinking tea is so productive... you find bad financial decisions
Yes yes, thanks for financially ruining me! Who found this car for sale?
This is why drinking tea is so productive... you find bad financial decisions
Minor update - I've started stripping! No, it's not a bad career choice, I mean the MX5.
Got stuck in on an evening and managed to remove the majority of the interior. The Dash is now ready to come out, although I've left it in situ as I've nowhere to store it until I make room in the garage. I wanted to remove the dash while leaving the loom intact so I can still start it, when I eventually get it to run.
On that front, I quickly tested the relay to check for clicking and there definitely wasn't any. So will look to get a replacement soon.
Got stuck in on an evening and managed to remove the majority of the interior. The Dash is now ready to come out, although I've left it in situ as I've nowhere to store it until I make room in the garage. I wanted to remove the dash while leaving the loom intact so I can still start it, when I eventually get it to run.
On that front, I quickly tested the relay to check for clicking and there definitely wasn't any. So will look to get a replacement soon.
Another update for those of you who might give a half a gnats pube of a st
This time, I’m ACTUALLY working on the RED NAIL
The first challenge was to actually get to it. As you can see, it was absolutely covered in all sorts of st. Ranging from Audi Allroad parts, Seat Arosa (my OH’s) parts and possibly some MX5 parts laying about there too. So, operation find-a-5 commenced!
Once all the car related paraphernalia was out the way taking up half my drive, it was time to get cracking.
The objective was to start to see the wood from the trees so that I could separate the body from the running gear. I started with getting the bolt on bits moved; so the Rad, disconnected the AC rad with my precise hacking using my Screwfix special angle grinder (fear not, environment peace lilies! It was already depressurised owing to a fk off dent in the bottom of the rad!) and removed the front bumper (itself requiring the dispatch of many snapped and rounded 10mm nuts and bolts).
Much to my pleasant surprise, the rad looks brand new (no brown plastics – if you know, you know!) so will likely reuse it as they’re interchangeable between Mk1 and 2 1.6 and 1.8 cars
Going to miss my naughties super awesomness brapap brap Apexi air intake though! RIP!
For those on Pistonheads who don’t believe the MX5 is the holy grail of all things motoring and are not so familiar with every nook and cranny of their assembly, the MX5 is essentially two subframes; the rear subframe houses the diff and has double wishbone suspension. The front subframe holds the engine, of which there is a gearbox bolted, again with double wishbone suspension. There is then a whacking great fk off girder, known as the PPF (Power Plant Frame) which connects the rear diff to the gearbox tailshaft. The front and rear subframe then attach to the underside of the body – 4 at the rear and 8 at the front. What this means is, all you really have to do is a few things like:
Well, impossibly, I managed to accomplish nearly-all this on a day with just ONE beer to help me through! The only real bits left are to ensure the wiring is disconnected from the PPF, all the ground points are removed from the gearbox and disconnect the starter and alternator. Despite those things being left, the running gear is now sat on its front wheels, free of the rusty parasitic body from which it once burdened.
Rear subframe disconnected and supported by scissor jack
Front subframe removed and initially supported by axle stands
Removing loom from the PPF clips
Disconnected steering column (it’s still trapped in the rack end, but is currently soaking in the universes WD40 reserves to make it easy to separate)
Starting to lower after removing axle stands from front and refitting its wheels, as well as replacing scissor jack for bottle jack, coz, yano, safe and that:
It started turning into a monster truck MX5
Do you even arch gap bro?
That’s where I ended up. The running gear is now resting free of the body and just a few more things to disconnected. The plan then is to raise the front of the body a little higher so the engine clears the body and roll the whole thing out and chuck it in the proverbial bin!
Mounted the bonnet, completed with our LEJOG road trip livery from Oct 2017
Meanwhile, I’m still trying to get the SVT started. I think I’ve traced it back to the Cam Angle Sensor. I tested the fuel pump by jumping the GND and F/P connections in the diagnostics port under the bonnet, and the pump definitely ran when ignition was on. So, there’s fuel.
So next steps is to test my Cam Angle Sensor on a mates Mk2 MX5 to see if that throws any hissy fits and go from there!
Until then, I’ve continued shaking my ass and stripping….. the interior. It’s all for sale (#fyi #notaplug #pleasedontbanmemods)
Looking forward to getting the red nail free of it’s shoddy running gear. The body will need some work. A patch of welding here and there, although because it’s not going to be an oil painting, then I’m happy to have a practice on it. I’m on the look out for a decent set of coilovers. Nothing extravagant, something that’ll do the trick without breaking the back.
Further updates to come – next time, with more beer!
t This time, I’m ACTUALLY working on the RED NAIL
The first challenge was to actually get to it. As you can see, it was absolutely covered in all sorts of s
t. Ranging from Audi Allroad parts, Seat Arosa (my OH’s) parts and possibly some MX5 parts laying about there too. So, operation find-a-5 commenced!Once all the car related paraphernalia was out the way taking up half my drive, it was time to get cracking.
The objective was to start to see the wood from the trees so that I could separate the body from the running gear. I started with getting the bolt on bits moved; so the Rad, disconnected the AC rad with my precise hacking using my Screwfix special angle grinder (fear not, environment peace lilies! It was already depressurised owing to a f
k off dent in the bottom of the rad!) and removed the front bumper (itself requiring the dispatch of many snapped and rounded 10mm nuts and bolts).Much to my pleasant surprise, the rad looks brand new (no brown plastics – if you know, you know!) so will likely reuse it as they’re interchangeable between Mk1 and 2 1.6 and 1.8 cars
Going to miss my naughties super awesomness brapap brap Apexi air intake though! RIP!
For those on Pistonheads who don’t believe the MX5 is the holy grail of all things motoring and are not so familiar with every nook and cranny of their assembly, the MX5 is essentially two subframes; the rear subframe houses the diff and has double wishbone suspension. The front subframe holds the engine, of which there is a gearbox bolted, again with double wishbone suspension. There is then a whacking great f
k off girder, known as the PPF (Power Plant Frame) which connects the rear diff to the gearbox tailshaft. The front and rear subframe then attach to the underside of the body – 4 at the rear and 8 at the front. What this means is, all you really have to do is a few things like:- free the subframe bolts of their rusty tombs,
- disconnect the ancient and deteriorated wiring loom,
- wrestle with a welded-by-titanic-level-of-rust steering column,
- disconnect perished fuel lines,
- undo the rounded top mount bolts
- snap off the caliper bolts
- snap all the plastic clips holding the wiring to the PPF
Well, impossibly, I managed to accomplish nearly-all this on a day with just ONE beer to help me through! The only real bits left are to ensure the wiring is disconnected from the PPF, all the ground points are removed from the gearbox and disconnect the starter and alternator. Despite those things being left, the running gear is now sat on its front wheels, free of the rusty parasitic body from which it once burdened.
Rear subframe disconnected and supported by scissor jack
Front subframe removed and initially supported by axle stands
Removing loom from the PPF clips
Disconnected steering column (it’s still trapped in the rack end, but is currently soaking in the universes WD40 reserves to make it easy to separate)
Starting to lower after removing axle stands from front and refitting its wheels, as well as replacing scissor jack for bottle jack, coz, yano, safe and that:
It started turning into a monster truck MX5
Do you even arch gap bro?
That’s where I ended up. The running gear is now resting free of the body and just a few more things to disconnected. The plan then is to raise the front of the body a little higher so the engine clears the body and roll the whole thing out and chuck it in the proverbial bin!
Mounted the bonnet, completed with our LEJOG road trip livery from Oct 2017
Meanwhile, I’m still trying to get the SVT started. I think I’ve traced it back to the Cam Angle Sensor. I tested the fuel pump by jumping the GND and F/P connections in the diagnostics port under the bonnet, and the pump definitely ran when ignition was on. So, there’s fuel.
So next steps is to test my Cam Angle Sensor on a mates Mk2 MX5 to see if that throws any hissy fits and go from there!
Until then, I’ve continued shaking my ass and stripping….. the interior. It’s all for sale (#fyi #notaplug #pleasedontbanmemods)
Looking forward to getting the red nail free of it’s shoddy running gear. The body will need some work. A patch of welding here and there, although because it’s not going to be an oil painting, then I’m happy to have a practice on it. I’m on the look out for a decent set of coilovers. Nothing extravagant, something that’ll do the trick without breaking the back.
Further updates to come – next time, with more beer!
The dismantling continues.
Someone wanted my crusty old VLSD off me as they’d cracked their housing, so that was duly removed after much swearing, cutting, more swearing and varying size of lump hammers. The PPF came off worst and was therefore destined for the scrap heap. I didn’t take many photos of this, due to all the swearing.
Then it was onto the matter of getting the rest of the engine, exhaust, box, subframes and suspension arms out of the car. So after disconnecting the clutch master cylinder, the starter motor wiring and getting the remainder of the steering column free, the old lump was detached and could be rolled about.
Used the engine hoist to life the front of the car high enough to get the engine underneath it to roll it out, but eventually after a few arse tickling moments on the hoist, it was free.
To understand an engine, first, you must become the engine! On thing’s for certain, despite the blue smoke and my young age, I am far less reliable that that 29 year old engine that came out!
With the struts removed, the engine and subframe just wanted to lie there, on its belly like some fat, lazy, smokey oaf and not move. I used the hoise to life the engine and subframe assembly and used some old factory wheel wrenches to keep the wishbones propped up so it could be rolled.
Got the box separated from the engine and promptly listed it for sale. It was a decent box. With a new shift boot it’ll serve someone well! I always though I had some sort of lash or thrust bearing issue, but on inspection, the clutch looked relatively new with lots of life left in it, as did the thrust bearing. I can only assume it was the crusty, flaking heatshield that was flopping around like a dick in a shirt sleeve.
Time was getting on and I needed to pack everything away, but first I dug out some old casters and made my scrap metal box mobile. Predictably, this took far longer than anticipated (90% of the time was spent looking for my HSS metal drill bits) but was probably the most satisfying job I’d done all day 
It was then onto the most important task of the weekend – the BBQ! First one of the year so, unsurprisingly, when I picked up the trusty old BBQ from the garden, the fking legs fell off. I feared not and ventured into my (now mobile, may I remind you) scrap box to find some replacemement legs. A little short, but, err, did the job!
That was the weekend, anyway. I’ve got to the stage where I can’t really progress much more with the red 5 until I start stripping down the silver one. I need the reference points from the loom before I start going all Edward Scissor-Hands on certain aspects of the wiring. With that, I re-commenced my quest to find out why the Silver 5 wouldn’t start. I suspected it could be the timing and this is relatively easy to check. Within 40 mins I’d dropped the water, removed the rads and water hoses and had the rocker cover, thermostat housing and timing belt cover removed. The first thing I found was the metal gauze filter on the VVT solenoid was in pieces. Luckily, it has all stayed majorly together so no bits in galleries anywhere. I’ll need a new one though, and for the tiny piece of chicken wire that it is, £20 for a replacement seems a bit steep!
I turned the engine over to check the cam timings, and they looked alright. The “I” on the exhaust cam pulley needs to align with a timing mark on the head, as does an indent in the intake pulley. On non-VVT engines, this will be an “E” marked on the am pulley. Confusingly, the “E” is on the intake pulley and “I” on the exhaust pulley. God knows why. I also counted the number of teeth between the last tooth on each cam pulley. There should be 19 and they were all accounted for. What I did notice is the amount of slack in the belt between the cams. I understood there should be no more than half inch in movement up or down. Well, whoever set this timing up had obviously been told a pack of lies as to what constitutes an inc (told by his wife, no doubt). As you can see from the .gif, it’s slightly, er, loose.
Cam timing marks looking ok…
But, well, these don’t look so good.
The notches in the crank pulley should line up to the “10” and “T” markings on the timing cover. So it looks like it may have skipped a tooth or 2 due to the belt having too much slack. So before I go and start ordering sensors left, right and centre, I’m going to retime her and give it a whirl. It’s a non-interference engine, so no harm no foul (literally). To do that I need a pulley puller and a couple of 24mm spanners to lock the cams. So that’ll be a nice evenings work.
That’s all for now, will provide some more updates when the re-timing inevitably fails and it’s back to the drawing board
Someone wanted my crusty old VLSD off me as they’d cracked their housing, so that was duly removed after much swearing, cutting, more swearing and varying size of lump hammers. The PPF came off worst and was therefore destined for the scrap heap. I didn’t take many photos of this, due to all the swearing.
Then it was onto the matter of getting the rest of the engine, exhaust, box, subframes and suspension arms out of the car. So after disconnecting the clutch master cylinder, the starter motor wiring and getting the remainder of the steering column free, the old lump was detached and could be rolled about.
Used the engine hoist to life the front of the car high enough to get the engine underneath it to roll it out, but eventually after a few arse tickling moments on the hoist, it was free.
To understand an engine, first, you must become the engine! On thing’s for certain, despite the blue smoke and my young age, I am far less reliable that that 29 year old engine that came out!
With the struts removed, the engine and subframe just wanted to lie there, on its belly like some fat, lazy, smokey oaf and not move. I used the hoise to life the engine and subframe assembly and used some old factory wheel wrenches to keep the wishbones propped up so it could be rolled.
Got the box separated from the engine and promptly listed it for sale. It was a decent box. With a new shift boot it’ll serve someone well! I always though I had some sort of lash or thrust bearing issue, but on inspection, the clutch looked relatively new with lots of life left in it, as did the thrust bearing. I can only assume it was the crusty, flaking heatshield that was flopping around like a dick in a shirt sleeve.
Time was getting on and I needed to pack everything away, but first I dug out some old casters and made my scrap metal box mobile
. Predictably, this took far longer than anticipated (90% of the time was spent looking for my HSS metal drill bits) but was probably the most satisfying job I’d done all day It was then onto the most important task of the weekend – the BBQ! First one of the year so, unsurprisingly, when I picked up the trusty old BBQ from the garden, the f
king legs fell off. I feared not and ventured into my (now mobile, may I remind you) scrap box to find some replacemement legs. A little short, but, err, did the job! That was the weekend, anyway. I’ve got to the stage where I can’t really progress much more with the red 5 until I start stripping down the silver one. I need the reference points from the loom before I start going all Edward Scissor-Hands on certain aspects of the wiring. With that, I re-commenced my quest to find out why the Silver 5 wouldn’t start. I suspected it could be the timing and this is relatively easy to check. Within 40 mins I’d dropped the water, removed the rads and water hoses and had the rocker cover, thermostat housing and timing belt cover removed. The first thing I found was the metal gauze filter on the VVT solenoid was in pieces. Luckily, it has all stayed majorly together so no bits in galleries anywhere. I’ll need a new one though, and for the tiny piece of chicken wire that it is, £20 for a replacement seems a bit steep!
I turned the engine over to check the cam timings, and they looked alright. The “I” on the exhaust cam pulley needs to align with a timing mark on the head, as does an indent in the intake pulley. On non-VVT engines, this will be an “E” marked on the am pulley. Confusingly, the “E” is on the intake pulley and “I” on the exhaust pulley. God knows why. I also counted the number of teeth between the last tooth on each cam pulley. There should be 19 and they were all accounted for. What I did notice is the amount of slack in the belt between the cams. I understood there should be no more than half inch in movement up or down. Well, whoever set this timing up had obviously been told a pack of lies as to what constitutes an inc (told by his wife, no doubt). As you can see from the .gif, it’s slightly, er, loose.
Cam timing marks looking ok…
But, well, these don’t look so good.
The notches in the crank pulley should line up to the “10” and “T” markings on the timing cover. So it looks like it may have skipped a tooth or 2 due to the belt having too much slack. So before I go and start ordering sensors left, right and centre, I’m going to retime her and give it a whirl. It’s a non-interference engine, so no harm no foul (literally). To do that I need a pulley puller and a couple of 24mm spanners to lock the cams. So that’ll be a nice evenings work.
That’s all for now, will provide some more updates when the re-timing inevitably fails and it’s back to the drawing board
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