Zenith Blue Porsche 996 911 C2 Manual Cab
Discussion
I’ve had the itch to buy a 911 for a while – I was initially looking at 997’s but in the end decided that the 996’s offered more value for money, and given that this was to be a 4th car that seemed to make even more sense!
My friend is getting married in Germany in the summer, and I wanted to get a car to combine that with a European road trip…a 911 seemed like the perfect choice!
I have a bit of finding a car online, deciding I like it and then just going for it without driving or even viewing other similar cars. In fact, of the 12 cars I’ve purchased in my 13 years of driving, only one wasn’t bought using this mentality! It’s worked out OK so far…
This Porsche was no exception. I’d seen the photos and the ad online, decided I liked it, and contacted the seller to arrange a viewing. So early one morning, I set off from the train station on the way to the south coast…obligatory coffee in hand!
Of course, I only booked a one-way ticket…!
A few hours later (Southern trains are horrible – now I know why I try and drive everywhere…) and I’d arrived at my destination!
One thing I do do before viewing is research – I’d soaked up as much information as possible by reading forums and guides online about 996 ownership, so I knew at least a few of the things to look for.
I found a few issues with the car on inspection – the air con wasn’t working. The seller explained it probably just needed a recharge…I knew this was unlikely to be the case and that the air con rads that are exposed at the front of the car would probably be shot and require replacement.
There was mayo on the oil fill tube but this is common on 911’s, especially in the colder months. Dipstick looked fine, as did the coolant. There was some coolant around the expansion tank, however, but the level was good so I carried on.
The alloys needed a refurb due to kerbing – it’s not too bad but needs doing. The car has OZ Alleggerita alloys in Titanium Tech (I think), which look great, but I imagine getting a colour match won’t be fun!
The car hadn’t had a service in 2 years…but had only covered 1,000 miles in that period, so I was OK with that, considering I like to do a full service myself, anyway!
Onto the test drive…it was great. Everything just felt really well put together and refined – I instantly knew I wouldn’t be buying a return ticket to get home (as if there was any doubt anyway…)!
So, with a slight reduction in asking price, my journey home began! It covered the 150mile trip faultlessly, and was a lot more fun than the train was on the way! After a clean over the next couple of days…here it is!
It’s a 2000 911 996 C2 Manual Cab in Zenith Blue, has the aerokit front bumper and sideskirts, a Metropol blue interior, and has 91,500miles on the clock. I’m in love already! It’s got the hard top as well but I’d taken that off to clean.
So, my plans for the car to get it ready for the summer road trip!
Firstly, a full, major service…oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, drive belt, pollen filter, spark plugs, manual transmission oil, coolant change and brake fluid change. I like to get all these things done and keep well on top of maintenance, just makes preventative sense to me. (Plus I enjoy it…!)
New gas struts for the frunk (or whatever it’s called) as they close themselves on your head after a couple of seconds…
Some new tyres (pretty sure I’m going with Michelin PS4’s) – I’d asked the seller on the phone how the tyres were, who confirmed they were in great condition with plenty of tread. I then completely forgot to check when viewing – turns out there is a reasonable amount of tread…but the front tyres are 13 years old and the rears 7.5 and 2.5…needless to say I’m going to get them all changed – I’d not heard good things about the Pirellis anyway.
I’ll get the tracking checked at the same time.
Add cruise control – for some of the longer stints in Europe I think this will be very useful – it involves purchasing the stalks, wiring it up and then getting it coded in by a specialist.
Air con fix – I’ve since had another look at the rads and part of the fins has actually completely separated! Couple of new rads on order and will fit and keep my fingers crossed that sorts the leaks…
Coolant issue – I mentioned earlier I noticed some coolant around the expansion tank. After my journey home the coolant level had dropped from Max to Min. A common problem on these is that the early expansion tank cap lets vapour out, hence dropping the level. Mine was indeed the original cap, so I’ve ordered a new variant – fingers crossed it fixes it.
If not, when I swap over the air con rads I’ll take a good look at the coolant rads, as these sit just behind and might have also taken a bit of a battering.
I’ll replace some missing wheel arch lining clips at this point as well!
“Gundo hack” – the exhaust is a little quiet…especially when one of my other cars is a TVR! This involves welding a bit of tubing between two existing tubes on the exhaust and is a relatively inexpensive way of boosting the throatiness of the sound.
Full detail – I’ll try and find the time to get my machine polisher out before I go and get the paint sparkling! I may do a recolour on the seats as well, although they’re actually in pretty decent condition so we’ll see how I get on.
Oh, and sort out the alloys as well.
And get some mats to replace the current ones as they’re horrid!
I was originally going to change the steering wheel for the 3 spoke version from photos – but in the flesh I actually really like the 4 spoke…it gives a nice retro feel to the interior. Given the cost to change I may well just keep it like this…
Someone will probably ask about the IMS – so here’s my stance on it. I don’t think it’s been done on this car, I can’t see anything in the paperwork (of which there is a decent chunk, with plenty of other work going on over the years!).
According to the engine code, this most likely has an earlier, more reliable dual row bearing. But it could still have a single – there’s no way of telling without taking it all apart.
Regardless, the failure rate is <1% for the dual row and <8% for the single. Also, they almost always go before 65k miles, so this car is a good chunk past that.
So, in my mind, the risk is very low. Of course, it could still happen – but stuff can happen on any car! I may consider putting an upgrade in during a clutch change, as that’s most of the labour out the way…but until then I’ll just keep my fingers crossed!
There are probably a few other inevitable bits I’ll do and find along the way but I think I’ve probably waffled on enough – thanks for reading and well done if you’ve got this far!!
I’ll update in due course
My friend is getting married in Germany in the summer, and I wanted to get a car to combine that with a European road trip…a 911 seemed like the perfect choice!
I have a bit of finding a car online, deciding I like it and then just going for it without driving or even viewing other similar cars. In fact, of the 12 cars I’ve purchased in my 13 years of driving, only one wasn’t bought using this mentality! It’s worked out OK so far…
This Porsche was no exception. I’d seen the photos and the ad online, decided I liked it, and contacted the seller to arrange a viewing. So early one morning, I set off from the train station on the way to the south coast…obligatory coffee in hand!
Of course, I only booked a one-way ticket…!
A few hours later (Southern trains are horrible – now I know why I try and drive everywhere…) and I’d arrived at my destination!
One thing I do do before viewing is research – I’d soaked up as much information as possible by reading forums and guides online about 996 ownership, so I knew at least a few of the things to look for.
I found a few issues with the car on inspection – the air con wasn’t working. The seller explained it probably just needed a recharge…I knew this was unlikely to be the case and that the air con rads that are exposed at the front of the car would probably be shot and require replacement.
There was mayo on the oil fill tube but this is common on 911’s, especially in the colder months. Dipstick looked fine, as did the coolant. There was some coolant around the expansion tank, however, but the level was good so I carried on.
The alloys needed a refurb due to kerbing – it’s not too bad but needs doing. The car has OZ Alleggerita alloys in Titanium Tech (I think), which look great, but I imagine getting a colour match won’t be fun!
The car hadn’t had a service in 2 years…but had only covered 1,000 miles in that period, so I was OK with that, considering I like to do a full service myself, anyway!
Onto the test drive…it was great. Everything just felt really well put together and refined – I instantly knew I wouldn’t be buying a return ticket to get home (as if there was any doubt anyway…)!
So, with a slight reduction in asking price, my journey home began! It covered the 150mile trip faultlessly, and was a lot more fun than the train was on the way! After a clean over the next couple of days…here it is!
It’s a 2000 911 996 C2 Manual Cab in Zenith Blue, has the aerokit front bumper and sideskirts, a Metropol blue interior, and has 91,500miles on the clock. I’m in love already! It’s got the hard top as well but I’d taken that off to clean.
So, my plans for the car to get it ready for the summer road trip!
Firstly, a full, major service…oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, drive belt, pollen filter, spark plugs, manual transmission oil, coolant change and brake fluid change. I like to get all these things done and keep well on top of maintenance, just makes preventative sense to me. (Plus I enjoy it…!)
New gas struts for the frunk (or whatever it’s called) as they close themselves on your head after a couple of seconds…
Some new tyres (pretty sure I’m going with Michelin PS4’s) – I’d asked the seller on the phone how the tyres were, who confirmed they were in great condition with plenty of tread. I then completely forgot to check when viewing – turns out there is a reasonable amount of tread…but the front tyres are 13 years old and the rears 7.5 and 2.5…needless to say I’m going to get them all changed – I’d not heard good things about the Pirellis anyway.
I’ll get the tracking checked at the same time.
Add cruise control – for some of the longer stints in Europe I think this will be very useful – it involves purchasing the stalks, wiring it up and then getting it coded in by a specialist.
Air con fix – I’ve since had another look at the rads and part of the fins has actually completely separated! Couple of new rads on order and will fit and keep my fingers crossed that sorts the leaks…
Coolant issue – I mentioned earlier I noticed some coolant around the expansion tank. After my journey home the coolant level had dropped from Max to Min. A common problem on these is that the early expansion tank cap lets vapour out, hence dropping the level. Mine was indeed the original cap, so I’ve ordered a new variant – fingers crossed it fixes it.
If not, when I swap over the air con rads I’ll take a good look at the coolant rads, as these sit just behind and might have also taken a bit of a battering.
I’ll replace some missing wheel arch lining clips at this point as well!
“Gundo hack” – the exhaust is a little quiet…especially when one of my other cars is a TVR! This involves welding a bit of tubing between two existing tubes on the exhaust and is a relatively inexpensive way of boosting the throatiness of the sound.
Full detail – I’ll try and find the time to get my machine polisher out before I go and get the paint sparkling! I may do a recolour on the seats as well, although they’re actually in pretty decent condition so we’ll see how I get on.
Oh, and sort out the alloys as well.
And get some mats to replace the current ones as they’re horrid!
I was originally going to change the steering wheel for the 3 spoke version from photos – but in the flesh I actually really like the 4 spoke…it gives a nice retro feel to the interior. Given the cost to change I may well just keep it like this…
Someone will probably ask about the IMS – so here’s my stance on it. I don’t think it’s been done on this car, I can’t see anything in the paperwork (of which there is a decent chunk, with plenty of other work going on over the years!).
According to the engine code, this most likely has an earlier, more reliable dual row bearing. But it could still have a single – there’s no way of telling without taking it all apart.
Regardless, the failure rate is <1% for the dual row and <8% for the single. Also, they almost always go before 65k miles, so this car is a good chunk past that.
So, in my mind, the risk is very low. Of course, it could still happen – but stuff can happen on any car! I may consider putting an upgrade in during a clutch change, as that’s most of the labour out the way…but until then I’ll just keep my fingers crossed!
There are probably a few other inevitable bits I’ll do and find along the way but I think I’ve probably waffled on enough – thanks for reading and well done if you’ve got this far!!
I’ll update in due course
Edited by GR_TVR on Tuesday 28th January 12:12
Been quite busy recently. Looks like the summer road trip will be postponed but never mind…
I mentioned about hoping that the coolant leak was down to the expansion cap…thankfully I was right! A nice cheap fix – you can see here the .00 at the end of the part number, which are old/inferior/leak. Now replaced with a .04 latest version and all is good.
A full service has taken place. Oil (Shell Helix 5W-40), oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, pollen filter and drive belt all replaced.
I noticed the spark plug tubes were leaking a bit of oil, so changed the spark plug tubes, spark plugs and then all the coil packs – some were quite cracked so definitely due a change.
Gearbox oil has been changed for some Motul Gear 300 75W90 – should keep the shifts nice and smooth.
Gas struts for the frunk changed - now doesn’t hit me on the head.
Oh and I replaced the horrid car mats!
Air con rads and dryer changed…unfortunately it still won’t hold pressure so I need to throw some more money at this to find the leak. New rads look a lot nicer, though.
I fitted cruise control and the on-board computer. Quite intensive for this year car as you need to take off the steering wheel, dials and stalks to fit the new ones – then run cables from here back to the rear of the car behind the cab roof and into the DME. No real issues, and it all worked once the indy coded it in – happy days!
I mentioned about hoping that the coolant leak was down to the expansion cap…thankfully I was right! A nice cheap fix – you can see here the .00 at the end of the part number, which are old/inferior/leak. Now replaced with a .04 latest version and all is good.
A full service has taken place. Oil (Shell Helix 5W-40), oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, pollen filter and drive belt all replaced.
I noticed the spark plug tubes were leaking a bit of oil, so changed the spark plug tubes, spark plugs and then all the coil packs – some were quite cracked so definitely due a change.
Gearbox oil has been changed for some Motul Gear 300 75W90 – should keep the shifts nice and smooth.
Gas struts for the frunk changed - now doesn’t hit me on the head.
Oh and I replaced the horrid car mats!
Air con rads and dryer changed…unfortunately it still won’t hold pressure so I need to throw some more money at this to find the leak. New rads look a lot nicer, though.
I fitted cruise control and the on-board computer. Quite intensive for this year car as you need to take off the steering wheel, dials and stalks to fit the new ones – then run cables from here back to the rear of the car behind the cab roof and into the DME. No real issues, and it all worked once the indy coded it in – happy days!
I decided to change the water pump as a precaution (it had only covered 7,500 miles but was 5.5 years old – probably fine but figured why not) and also fitted a low temperature thermostat – a popular mod. Did the coolant at the same time (that jack just raises the engine a bit to make moving the engine mount structure a bit easier, it’s not supporting the car! )
Old waterpump looked fine on removal, but did have a metal impeller. General consensus is that this is bad, so I’m happy I changed it for an OEM brand one with a composite impeller.
That brings me pretty much up to date – I’ve got some Dansk exhausts to go on, but that will probably wait till the lockdown is lifted.
Next steps are probably a full detail when I start getting bored again…
)Old waterpump looked fine on removal, but did have a metal impeller. General consensus is that this is bad, so I’m happy I changed it for an OEM brand one with a composite impeller.
That brings me pretty much up to date – I’ve got some Dansk exhausts to go on, but that will probably wait till the lockdown is lifted.
Next steps are probably a full detail when I start getting bored again…
Thanks for the kind comments! I'd certainly recommend going for it if you're considering getting one...!
J.C... said:
Your air con will probably be the front to rear air con pipe - they’re a pretty common failure. Easy enough to change other than a bit of a wrestle in the osf arch.
If you haven’t already bought them, I’d steer well clear of the Dansk exhausts - they used to be very good but the quality has absolutely plummeted in the last few years and there’s a lot of stories of failure, which I didn’t find out til mine had failed. Top Gear exhausts have a very good rep on the various FB groups and forums or if you’re feeling really flush the PSE can be bought direct from Eisenmann UK for a lot lot less than the dealer price.
I have exactly the same IMS attitude - if it goes, it goes and will be a good excuse to do the 4.0 conversion.
Looks a great car, good luck with it.
You're probably right with the air con pipe - I'm hoping it's an obvious leak from somewhere like that so I can just change the offending pipe!If you haven’t already bought them, I’d steer well clear of the Dansk exhausts - they used to be very good but the quality has absolutely plummeted in the last few years and there’s a lot of stories of failure, which I didn’t find out til mine had failed. Top Gear exhausts have a very good rep on the various FB groups and forums or if you’re feeling really flush the PSE can be bought direct from Eisenmann UK for a lot lot less than the dealer price.
I have exactly the same IMS attitude - if it goes, it goes and will be a good excuse to do the 4.0 conversion.
Looks a great car, good luck with it.
I bought some Dansk exhausts that had already failed, and am currently having some pipe and a new flexi fabricated to take care of the problem - fortunately I went into it all eyes wide open!
Have heard good things about Top Gear though, especially customer service (which is where Dansk seems to really suffer...)
Thanks!
Changed the manifold to cat bolts today. After seeing and reading many horror stories I thought I’d see what mine were like...there are plenty of cases around where they've needed drilling out, which isn't much fun in the space. They're also threaded throughout so you can't just grind the head off and knock out I believe.
Pretty rusty was the answer! Fortunately, some perseverance with plus gas, heat and an impact driver and they all came out.
Now replaced with some nice new stainless bolts (M8x35mm). I’m glad I didn’t leave it much longer!
Pretty rusty was the answer! Fortunately, some perseverance with plus gas, heat and an impact driver and they all came out.
Now replaced with some nice new stainless bolts (M8x35mm). I’m glad I didn’t leave it much longer!
Few updates...new tyres are getting fitted today. Watched a YT video on the Michelin PS4 and Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 5 and have decided on the Goodyears. Used the F1 3's over the years in other cars and always been very impressed, so we shall see!
The Dansk exhaust is now fitted and on the car - haven't driven it yet but sounds fantastic on the drive! I cut away the old flexi, had some new pipe fabricated for the other side of the flexi and then had a mobile welder come round and weld it up. Very pleased! I'll get some photos/videos in due course...
As can be seen in the photos from when I first got the car, the seats weren't the correct colour.
I've now sorted this, and am really pleased with how they've come out!
I fully prepped them using some leftovers from a Furniture Clinic kit used on my TVR, then used some leather filler to fill in some slight cracks.
A few sponge coats of the correct Metropol Blue followed by 3 spray applications and a matt finish.
The Dansk exhaust is now fitted and on the car - haven't driven it yet but sounds fantastic on the drive! I cut away the old flexi, had some new pipe fabricated for the other side of the flexi and then had a mobile welder come round and weld it up. Very pleased! I'll get some photos/videos in due course...
As can be seen in the photos from when I first got the car, the seats weren't the correct colour.
I've now sorted this, and am really pleased with how they've come out!
I fully prepped them using some leftovers from a Furniture Clinic kit used on my TVR, then used some leather filler to fill in some slight cracks.
A few sponge coats of the correct Metropol Blue followed by 3 spray applications and a matt finish.
shalmaneser said:
Which Dansk box did you get? Would be interested to hear some sound clips! I've got some second hand Dansk boxes which also had a busted flexi - got that fixed for £20 or so but they're pretty loud and I'm concerned they might be too much for a track day....
They're the Sports exhaust but have had a bypass pipe fitted between the two outlets (gundo/fister depending on who you speak to) which makes them even louder/nicer!Only video I've got is a couple of small blips on the drive...I'll have to see what they're like properly next week!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/74643511@N03/shares/...
Air con leak found...under the front clip on the low pressure (larger) pipe.
Plenty of cutting later and I got them separated at the join under the car - remaining bolt had to be drilled out.
Getting the new pipe in is a right faff - the other end of the pipe is under the frunk next to the battery...so it's wheel off, wheel arch liner our, carbon canister out and fuel filler neck loosened and moved out the way. Then lots of head scratching as you try and work out how on each you're going to route it to get it in.
Anyway, got there in the end!
Regas later this week, I'm praying there are no more leaks!
I'm still enjoying admiring it...
Plenty of cutting later and I got them separated at the join under the car - remaining bolt had to be drilled out.
Getting the new pipe in is a right faff - the other end of the pipe is under the frunk next to the battery...so it's wheel off, wheel arch liner our, carbon canister out and fuel filler neck loosened and moved out the way. Then lots of head scratching as you try and work out how on each you're going to route it to get it in.
Anyway, got there in the end!
Regas later this week, I'm praying there are no more leaks!
I'm still enjoying admiring it...
shalmaneser said:
Looks great - I love those wheels. Glad to hear she's running sweet!
Me too! 
Thanks - I really like the wheels, too, they add a nice OEM+ look and save a good chunk of weight.
Since we're talking about wheels, I've had the Eagle F1 5's on for a few months now - really impressed. Fantastic grip and comfort, they seem perfectly suited to the car and offer great value, too.
Annoyingly I forgot to take photos, but I put aside a day to get the car up with all the wheels off and wheel arches linings out.
I wasn't sure what to expect, but was pleasantly relieved to find only minor levels of dirt, and no signs at all of any corrosion on any of the structural items. In fact, apart from some slight surface rust on the suspension bodies and wheel liner fixing brackets (now all treated and protected) it was completely rust free!
Phew.
Looked inside the sills, again, completely clean - I filled these with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50.
Cleaned everything else up and protected it with a spraying of Bilt Hamber Dynax UC.
Took off undertrays under the car to check for any trapped dirt or corrosion - nothing really found so cleaned up and also protected with the UC.
I doff my cap to the previous owners for making my life a lot easier - it was clearly well looked after, garaged, and not taken out on salty roads!
I wasn't sure what to expect, but was pleasantly relieved to find only minor levels of dirt, and no signs at all of any corrosion on any of the structural items. In fact, apart from some slight surface rust on the suspension bodies and wheel liner fixing brackets (now all treated and protected) it was completely rust free!
Phew.
Looked inside the sills, again, completely clean - I filled these with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50.
Cleaned everything else up and protected it with a spraying of Bilt Hamber Dynax UC.
Took off undertrays under the car to check for any trapped dirt or corrosion - nothing really found so cleaned up and also protected with the UC.
I doff my cap to the previous owners for making my life a lot easier - it was clearly well looked after, garaged, and not taken out on salty roads!
FastAndy said:
I owned and loved its twin ran if for 5 years and 45000 miles and hand on heart the most reliable car I have ever owned. The BMW E93 that replaced it well that was the total opposite. I really fancy another but this time as a weekend project car I owned a lovely Le Mans Blue E93 335i for 3 years - I absolutely loved that car! Only thing that went wrong for me was the water pump let go, fortunately sorted under warranty.
shalmaneser said:
Alwise nice to find a clean sill. Have you cleared out the rads too? Well worth doing.
Yep - had the bumper off to replace the air con condensers, so gave it all a good clean out then.To be fair there wasn't much crap in there, it obviously wasn't a neglected process in previous ownership compared to some I've seen!
I spotted a bit of rust on the battery tray, so thought I'd get it out to inspect and sort out so it didn't get any worse.
It wasn't too bad - just a bit of surface corrosion. So I wire brushed and wheeled it, treated it all with some rust converter, sprayed it all with BH Atom Mac and then put 3 coats of black paint and 2 coats of lacquer on top.
I'm happy with the results, nice to know it wasn't too bad and now won't get any worse.
Wasn't striving for visual perfection as you don't see any of it anyway...!
It wasn't too bad - just a bit of surface corrosion. So I wire brushed and wheeled it, treated it all with some rust converter, sprayed it all with BH Atom Mac and then put 3 coats of black paint and 2 coats of lacquer on top.
I'm happy with the results, nice to know it wasn't too bad and now won't get any worse.
Wasn't striving for visual perfection as you don't see any of it anyway...!
mercedeslimos said:
Jesus if you saw the one in my old B5 A4... How the battery didn't fly side to side is beyond me, the whole bracket was rotted away!
I've seen some shockers on other 996's, so wanted to make sure I got to this one early.
As a bonus, everything else in the vicinity was looking very healthy indeed!
mercedeslimos said:
GR_TVR said:
mercedeslimos said:
Jesus if you saw the one in my old B5 A4... How the battery didn't fly side to side is beyond me, the whole bracket was rotted away!
I've seen some shockers on other 996's, so wanted to make sure I got to this one early.
As a bonus, everything else in the vicinity was looking very healthy indeed!
It's just in front of the windscreen - between that and the luggage compartment.
996's (and probably other 911's) suffer with blocked drain tubes as well. I think they usually result initially in wet interior carpets, followed by damaged alarm modules that sit under the seats.
Fortunately I've been through all my drain tubes and made sure they are all nice and clear, and flushed through with water.
Medic-one said:
Love the write up and collection story. And stunning colour!
Thank you!Yes, I'm very fond of the colour - I really like blue cars and this one cleans up really well, changing colour in different lights.
Not that there's anything wrong with black/silver/grey ones, but I'm glad I was able to find one that was a bit different. I'm also partial to a guards red and speed yellow...
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