As promised, 996tt heap of mods, heres my experience.
Discussion
aathanas said:
That's great...thanks guys..I'll make sure I get the 997 short shifter. I had a look at fearn's website and the package they offer for the stage1 996 tt mod is 3k+...maybe I can do without the 100cell cats?...ie just the remap +dv...It always tempting to go for DMS since the offer 500+ bhp compared to fearns 470-490 range, but it looks like fearn ispires more confidence overall...
cheers
Ignore the website - it hasnt been updated for years. Call Fearns and ask for Matt who will advise. cheers
I would not get too hooked on the hp numbers - the car will be quick whichever stage 1 you go for.
Neil Allan said:
When people switch to turbos like 24/18g's or 16 hybrids do you use a Bitish company to build them or buy them in from America.
You can do either - the likes of AET turbos in the uk can build you 16/24s or 24/26s.. some of the zero clearance turbos such as the 24/18g's are I believe most commonly supplied by the likes of UMW in the US. Which turbo's to swap to is really determined by what your final aims for the car are.Spurred on and inspired by VonSengers’ original post and the fact that this thread keeps being resurrected I thought it was high time I shared my experience of creating what my car has now evolved into, and the particular path I took to turbo lunacy. I can remember it now, on taking that first test drive and thinking, ‘Whoa, this is a quick car!’ and after getting my car home saying, ‘Why would anyone need to go any faster than that?’ Never underestimate the addictive properties of the drug known as 996tt.
I first started to get the ‘itch’ after about 6 months of ownership, Winter was drawing in and so the meddling began. After much research on t’internet and talking to people who seemed to know what they were talking about I began like most by swapping the high pressure boost hoses for a set of Samco silicone ones and replacing the plastic diverter valves with a pair of alloy ones. I managed to fit the hoses without removing the rear bumper but getting your arm in to refit the clips is an art form. The DVs can cause severe scraped knuckles and the stupid clips holding the various pipework on are a pain, these were thrown away and replaced with stainless hose clips. At this point I also fitted an intake thingy....big mistake, this caused no end of grief, blown MAF sensor, N75 error, limp mode, the full Mugabe. This was swiftly removed and the standard airbox refitted, all problems solved.
This is how things stayed for some time while I researched the minefield known as ecu reflashing and the myriad of tuners offering a wide range of gains and benefits. At this time I was also reading of the benefits of fitting a free flowing exhaust and decided that fitting this prior to any reflash work would be a good move. So, I took the plunge and ordered a Europipe Stage II (Loud) with the 100 cell cats (and yes they do a quiet version), and a pair of Evoms stainless headers. Out came the spanners again and the exhaust and headers were fitted, headers were a very simple job and exhaust was made much easier by the Europipe coming with full instructions and special tools enabling the job to be done without the need to remove the rear bumper.
The decision was finally made to use FVD for the software remapping thanks to numerous positive reviews and the fact that the UK distributer was only about a half hour away. So following several lengthy conversation with Nigel at Power Marques the FVD stage one kit was ordered which essentially includes a BMC air filter and DVD based software and a lead to connect a laptop to the OBDII port. Basically the cars current map is read, sent to FVD in Germany along with details of any mods where a suitably modified map is chosen /adapted and sent back along with the original file. This is then flashed to the cars ecu. The results were quite staggering, unfortunately I never managed to get the car on a dyno at this stage but it was like driving a completely different car pulling much stronger in every gear and according to the dash gauge was producing 0.9-1.0 bar boost.
I was quite happy at this stage until by chance a came across a pair of K24 turbochargers which allegedly had only covered 600 miles! Intrigued I set off to see for myself and they literally looked brand new so a deal was struck there and then. At this point I was unsure exactly what I was going to do with them so set about reading up on the benefits of various turbocharger setups and soon began to lean toward the K16/24 hybrid.
So, back in my garage again and this time off came lots of bits, rear bumper, hoses, intercoolers, exhaust, turbos and manifolds. While everything was dismantled I took the opportunity of changing the plugs and the side exhaust heat shields. My K16s and the new K24s were sent to AET turbos in Normanton with instructions to build the hybrids using the K16 turbine with the K24 compressor and fit 1 bar wastegate actuators. The hybrids were fitted along with a pair of GT2 intercoolers and out came the laptop again.
This time the results were, well..astonishing, just as dramatic as the first reflash, the power delivery now is instant and brutal and the acceleration is relentless in every gear. With regard to the power the final piece in the jigsaw was the addition, under advice, of a 5 bar fuel pressure regulator (an awkward little git for such a small piece) and a final tweak of the software. In May of this year I finally managed to get the car on a dyno. I decided to take it to AET and use their Dynapack hub dyno which measures power at the wheels/hubs only. The numbers were...interesting...
Max power @ wheels/hubs – 480.7 @ 5747rpm
Max torque @ wheels/hubs – 538.1lbft @ 3969rpm
Max Boost 1.2 Bar from 3150rpm to 6000rpm (peak 1.292 Bar @ 6400rpm)
After covering around only 500 miles with this setup the stock clutch began to slip, this was replaced using a Sachs Racing uprated friction disc and reinforced clutch cover plate. I commissioned this job to Nigel at Power Marques as I was reluctant to start unscrewing gearboxes etc. This was closely followed by the addition of the 6 pot brake upgrade and most recently the X73 engine mounts, adjustable rear anti-roll bar and drop links in an attempt to dial out some of the inherent understeer and keep the rear planted. Finally, a 997 short shift kit was supplied and fitted by OPC Sheffield (I have a history of wrecking bits of interior trim so best left to someone who knows how things are supposed to come apart).
So, was it worth it?
What do you think, a very enthusiastic thumbs up, laugh out loud fast & epic fun. I must say that I’ve always had in the back of my mind the fact that it was important to retain the everyday drivability and road manners that the turbo offers, which is essentially why I bought one in the first place!
Probably a bit corny but credit where it’s due so; thanks to Trev, my right hand spanner man, Nigel @ Power Marques for steering this project to where It is today, my friend north of the border whos knowledge of these things seems endless and still answers his phone when I ring him...cheers Steve mate, and yes...OPC Sheffield (Dave the top turbo techie & parts dept).
The End.......maybe...
I first started to get the ‘itch’ after about 6 months of ownership, Winter was drawing in and so the meddling began. After much research on t’internet and talking to people who seemed to know what they were talking about I began like most by swapping the high pressure boost hoses for a set of Samco silicone ones and replacing the plastic diverter valves with a pair of alloy ones. I managed to fit the hoses without removing the rear bumper but getting your arm in to refit the clips is an art form. The DVs can cause severe scraped knuckles and the stupid clips holding the various pipework on are a pain, these were thrown away and replaced with stainless hose clips. At this point I also fitted an intake thingy....big mistake, this caused no end of grief, blown MAF sensor, N75 error, limp mode, the full Mugabe. This was swiftly removed and the standard airbox refitted, all problems solved.
This is how things stayed for some time while I researched the minefield known as ecu reflashing and the myriad of tuners offering a wide range of gains and benefits. At this time I was also reading of the benefits of fitting a free flowing exhaust and decided that fitting this prior to any reflash work would be a good move. So, I took the plunge and ordered a Europipe Stage II (Loud) with the 100 cell cats (and yes they do a quiet version), and a pair of Evoms stainless headers. Out came the spanners again and the exhaust and headers were fitted, headers were a very simple job and exhaust was made much easier by the Europipe coming with full instructions and special tools enabling the job to be done without the need to remove the rear bumper.
The decision was finally made to use FVD for the software remapping thanks to numerous positive reviews and the fact that the UK distributer was only about a half hour away. So following several lengthy conversation with Nigel at Power Marques the FVD stage one kit was ordered which essentially includes a BMC air filter and DVD based software and a lead to connect a laptop to the OBDII port. Basically the cars current map is read, sent to FVD in Germany along with details of any mods where a suitably modified map is chosen /adapted and sent back along with the original file. This is then flashed to the cars ecu. The results were quite staggering, unfortunately I never managed to get the car on a dyno at this stage but it was like driving a completely different car pulling much stronger in every gear and according to the dash gauge was producing 0.9-1.0 bar boost.
I was quite happy at this stage until by chance a came across a pair of K24 turbochargers which allegedly had only covered 600 miles! Intrigued I set off to see for myself and they literally looked brand new so a deal was struck there and then. At this point I was unsure exactly what I was going to do with them so set about reading up on the benefits of various turbocharger setups and soon began to lean toward the K16/24 hybrid.
So, back in my garage again and this time off came lots of bits, rear bumper, hoses, intercoolers, exhaust, turbos and manifolds. While everything was dismantled I took the opportunity of changing the plugs and the side exhaust heat shields. My K16s and the new K24s were sent to AET turbos in Normanton with instructions to build the hybrids using the K16 turbine with the K24 compressor and fit 1 bar wastegate actuators. The hybrids were fitted along with a pair of GT2 intercoolers and out came the laptop again.
This time the results were, well..astonishing, just as dramatic as the first reflash, the power delivery now is instant and brutal and the acceleration is relentless in every gear. With regard to the power the final piece in the jigsaw was the addition, under advice, of a 5 bar fuel pressure regulator (an awkward little git for such a small piece) and a final tweak of the software. In May of this year I finally managed to get the car on a dyno. I decided to take it to AET and use their Dynapack hub dyno which measures power at the wheels/hubs only. The numbers were...interesting...
Max power @ wheels/hubs – 480.7 @ 5747rpm
Max torque @ wheels/hubs – 538.1lbft @ 3969rpm
Max Boost 1.2 Bar from 3150rpm to 6000rpm (peak 1.292 Bar @ 6400rpm)
After covering around only 500 miles with this setup the stock clutch began to slip, this was replaced using a Sachs Racing uprated friction disc and reinforced clutch cover plate. I commissioned this job to Nigel at Power Marques as I was reluctant to start unscrewing gearboxes etc. This was closely followed by the addition of the 6 pot brake upgrade and most recently the X73 engine mounts, adjustable rear anti-roll bar and drop links in an attempt to dial out some of the inherent understeer and keep the rear planted. Finally, a 997 short shift kit was supplied and fitted by OPC Sheffield (I have a history of wrecking bits of interior trim so best left to someone who knows how things are supposed to come apart).
So, was it worth it?
What do you think, a very enthusiastic thumbs up, laugh out loud fast & epic fun. I must say that I’ve always had in the back of my mind the fact that it was important to retain the everyday drivability and road manners that the turbo offers, which is essentially why I bought one in the first place!
Probably a bit corny but credit where it’s due so; thanks to Trev, my right hand spanner man, Nigel @ Power Marques for steering this project to where It is today, my friend north of the border whos knowledge of these things seems endless and still answers his phone when I ring him...cheers Steve mate, and yes...OPC Sheffield (Dave the top turbo techie & parts dept).
The End.......maybe...
Edited by jeremyc on Friday 1st November 19:15
SIIX TT said:
Andy- stunning amount of work mate... are you willing to give a ball park figure of expenditure? Car looks mint, can only imagine wht it goes like.
John mate, I shudder to think at the total cost as I stopped counting long ago, but when these things become a hobby and a passion it's funny how cost can become less of a consideration! Seriously though, I'll have to dig out a few bills sometime as expense has been spread over a couple of years...I'll probably still scare myself even when you consider I've had virtually no labour costs 
As you know im at the very beginning of that journey... its not only the cost but the endless list of potential upgrades. Once you get past the remap and exhaust it seems to get very complex....And maybe pointless unless you buy the lot ???? - IE 500BHP approx seems achievable for limited cost, its the next 100BHP that seems to require major bucks. Beyond that seems very expensive.
Heres one for you- at what point do/did you think - I'd have been happy there... IE Good BHP for a reasonable budget....or are you going to say it hasn't happened yet.
I'm so confused I dont know what the hell to, even thinking of an xbox instead lol......
Heres one for you- at what point do/did you think - I'd have been happy there... IE Good BHP for a reasonable budget....or are you going to say it hasn't happened yet.
I'm so confused I dont know what the hell to, even thinking of an xbox instead lol......
SIIX TT said:
As you know im at the very beginning of that journey... its not only the cost but the endless list of potential upgrades. Once you get past the remap and exhaust it seems to get very complex....And maybe pointless unless you buy the lot ???? - IE 500BHP approx seems achievable for limited cost, its the next 100BHP that seems to require major bucks. Beyond that seems very expensive.
Heres one for you- at what point do/did you think - I'd have been happy there... IE Good BHP for a reasonable budget....or are you going to say it hasn't happened yet.
I'm so confused I dont know what the hell to, even thinking of an xbox instead lol......
I can honestly say that I am very pleased with where the car is at right now and have no plans to go any further (yet!). It still surprises me and puts a massive grin on my face and like you say you soon get to the point of diminishing returns. Any further and I would be looking at yet bigger turbos, uprated fuel system and depending on what you read (or how brave you feel) possible internal work, which is beyond my capabilities and so the cost spirals.Heres one for you- at what point do/did you think - I'd have been happy there... IE Good BHP for a reasonable budget....or are you going to say it hasn't happened yet.
I'm so confused I dont know what the hell to, even thinking of an xbox instead lol......
As to whether it was a reasonable budget, well, I'll let you know when the final figures come in, the jury's still out on that one but the biggest expense by far was 3k for the Europipe!
eta... buy an xbox and a copy of Forza Motorsport, the cars are cheaper to run
Edited by EvoSlayer on Sunday 22 November 18:55
Your observations are accurate, the last 100 bhp is the most expensive, well it was for me any how. That last 100 bhp needs consideration for fuelling, additional boost and stopping power. A remap and exhaust will give you plenty of "grin factor" but proper laugh out loud by yourself grunt and I mean unimaginable grunt, you need turbos, fuelling, headers etc. Just remember, you are very unlikely to get your money back, Im considering a change at the moment but I will never get my cash back which is easily north of £9k so far!
EvoSlayer said:
996TT_STEVO said:
Great write up from both Von & Evo... thanks for the comments Andy, always try to help out.
Just make sure that 24hr helpline keeps open for business.... 
Cheers..
If ever a certain event reappears on the calender at a certain location in the Leicestershire countryside, it would be worth you bods coming along (if you haven't, already.)
It always amazes me when I hear comments over the Turbo's GT credentials when minor nips and tucks, here and there, enable the deliverance of monumental - and not just supercar but hypercar - get up and go.
It must be conceded that whilst I thought myself cured, the stirrings are-a-rising again.
The big (and I mean Ruf fondling) numbers are not that expensive, right..?
It always amazes me when I hear comments over the Turbo's GT credentials when minor nips and tucks, here and there, enable the deliverance of monumental - and not just supercar but hypercar - get up and go.
It must be conceded that whilst I thought myself cured, the stirrings are-a-rising again.
The big (and I mean Ruf fondling) numbers are not that expensive, right..?
Thx for sharing the write up Andy.
Your upgrades path reminds me of someone elses I know
The turbo is truly one of the greatest platforms for tuning - as everyone has already said, beyond the basic chip & zorst things become expensive in terms of engine tuning, but always important to remember that chassis and brakes can cost an awful lot as well and are often overlooked in favour of the big bang engine mods.
Your upgrades path reminds me of someone elses I know
The turbo is truly one of the greatest platforms for tuning - as everyone has already said, beyond the basic chip & zorst things become expensive in terms of engine tuning, but always important to remember that chassis and brakes can cost an awful lot as well and are often overlooked in favour of the big bang engine mods.
As Vonsenger and others have stated, the cost of the last extra power is always the most.
Currently I have done the following: -
1. DVs
2. Cargraphic Intake Plenium
3. Filter changes
4. BlownSix Intercoolers
5. Forged Motorsports hoses
6. Custom written map set @ 1.2 bar.
I already had a standard stage 1 map, but had that changed once 2 & 4 where added. No matter what you add the map is very important. For example, the 1 bar actuators start releasing boost over 1 bar, unless to modify the map so that it overrides within tolerance. But you can only do that up to 1.1 realistic before the actuators will kick in. So I will be moving to 1.3 bar actuators to allow me to run higher boost once the mods I am planning are done.
Up to this point, I can tell you the cost has been around 7k.
So what is planned?
Well, the K16s will be shipped to AET to have them stripped and changed to K16/24s. At the same time, a Milltek full exhaust will be fitted including the headers. 5bpr. So that is another 5k including labour.
We don't expect to have to change the map because it will cater for this already. But at least if I need more boost, it is a small change in the map.
So you can see it is addictive.
Couple of other points, is to make sure that everything is good in the first place. Even after the first set of mods I was getting 1.2 bar on the dash. But we knew that was overboosting because the program was not set. Eventually found that one of the pipes at the back of the engine at a small crack causing it to overboost. You'll see other threads with 1.5bar boost etc - it rarely is to do with modifications, but a leak.
The one point I would make is that whilst considering what you want to achieve, think about the driveability. I used to be able to run at WOT (when the car was standard) in the wet in second and third. I am lucky if I can run anything more than 1/2 throttle currently in the wet. Having the car spin the wheels is not much fun at those speeds. BTW my is a tiptronic and the top of third gear is now 130.
Saying that in the dry.....
Currently I have done the following: -
1. DVs
2. Cargraphic Intake Plenium
3. Filter changes
4. BlownSix Intercoolers
5. Forged Motorsports hoses
6. Custom written map set @ 1.2 bar.
I already had a standard stage 1 map, but had that changed once 2 & 4 where added. No matter what you add the map is very important. For example, the 1 bar actuators start releasing boost over 1 bar, unless to modify the map so that it overrides within tolerance. But you can only do that up to 1.1 realistic before the actuators will kick in. So I will be moving to 1.3 bar actuators to allow me to run higher boost once the mods I am planning are done.
Up to this point, I can tell you the cost has been around 7k.
So what is planned?
Well, the K16s will be shipped to AET to have them stripped and changed to K16/24s. At the same time, a Milltek full exhaust will be fitted including the headers. 5bpr. So that is another 5k including labour.
We don't expect to have to change the map because it will cater for this already. But at least if I need more boost, it is a small change in the map.
So you can see it is addictive.
Couple of other points, is to make sure that everything is good in the first place. Even after the first set of mods I was getting 1.2 bar on the dash. But we knew that was overboosting because the program was not set. Eventually found that one of the pipes at the back of the engine at a small crack causing it to overboost. You'll see other threads with 1.5bar boost etc - it rarely is to do with modifications, but a leak.
The one point I would make is that whilst considering what you want to achieve, think about the driveability. I used to be able to run at WOT (when the car was standard) in the wet in second and third. I am lucky if I can run anything more than 1/2 throttle currently in the wet. Having the car spin the wheels is not much fun at those speeds. BTW my is a tiptronic and the top of third gear is now 130.
Saying that in the dry.....
Edited by 996ttalot on Tuesday 24th November 19:41
ZeroH said:
aathanas said:
That's great...thanks guys..I'll make sure I get the 997 short shifter. I had a look at fearn's website and the package they offer for the stage1 996 tt mod is 3k+...maybe I can do without the 100cell cats?...ie just the remap +dv...It always tempting to go for DMS since the offer 500+ bhp compared to fearns 470-490 range, but it looks like fearn ispires more confidence overall...
cheers
Ignore the website - it hasnt been updated for years. Call Fearns and ask for Matt who will advise. cheers
I would not get too hooked on the hp numbers - the car will be quick whichever stage 1 you go for.
Haven;t had the uprated DVs installed yet but I will soon
Any recommendations of sports exhaust? Don't want anything too loud, but looking to gain 20-30 bhp. Should I get uprated manifolds as well? Do you think exhaust + manifolds at around 2k+ GBP is worth it? or better spend the money on uprated brakes..?
Also , any point of getting K24 turbos on it?or is woud this stretch the budget and complicate things..?
Cheers
Edited by aathanas on Saturday 12th December 17:55
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