Lack of light.
Discussion
After years of eminently sensible cars I have finally taken the plunge and bought the one I fell in love with when I saw it on a motorshow stand as student. It's a very early MK1 example, and five days into ownership I am absolutely loving it: the noise, the sense of occasion, the overwhelmingly positive reaction of pedestrians and other road users... I can't believe I didn't do this earlier!
But...
Running home this evening in the fading light I realised the headlights I thought were switched on weren't at all, just the sidelights. Pulled over and checked fuses, which were all OK.
As I headed back towards home almost invisible to those ahead of me save for the tiny sidelights I discovered that the main beam would not work properly either (it works fine to flash by pulling back on the stalk, but pushing forward does nothing)
On the basis both faults appeared at once I'm concluding they are related. And I'm now fortifying myself to approach the garage tomorrow and do some fault finding.
I'm kind of hoping that I can benefit from somebody's wisdom and get some pointers as to the most likely places to start hunting for gremlins.
Thanks!
But...
Running home this evening in the fading light I realised the headlights I thought were switched on weren't at all, just the sidelights. Pulled over and checked fuses, which were all OK.
As I headed back towards home almost invisible to those ahead of me save for the tiny sidelights I discovered that the main beam would not work properly either (it works fine to flash by pulling back on the stalk, but pushing forward does nothing)
On the basis both faults appeared at once I'm concluding they are related. And I'm now fortifying myself to approach the garage tomorrow and do some fault finding.
I'm kind of hoping that I can benefit from somebody's wisdom and get some pointers as to the most likely places to start hunting for gremlins.
Thanks!
Nothing wrong with checking the total basics first ;-)
Yes, I've done that, swapped out fuses, had a wiggle of the relays and swapped out with similar ones. This may be more involved I think, and I have a feeling more than a couple of panels will need to be removed. I'd just like to limit that to the bare minimum.
Things have gotten worse though... I popped out this morning to pick up a multimeter as my previous one seems to have bought it. On my return to the house I couldn't get the windows to close, or the driver's side door to open. Took a good 5 minutes for the door release to operate, and then when I returned ready to fault-find I discovered that one of the doors now thinks it's continually open.
So:
No dipped beams,
Main beam only works when stalk pulled - not when pushed forward,
Drivers side window refuses to move. Passenger side will move but only up and down to halfway up.
One of the door senders is not operating,
Drivers side door release is intermittent.
All of which were perfect two days ago.
Wow... I think I may need a bigger multimeter!
Yes, I've done that, swapped out fuses, had a wiggle of the relays and swapped out with similar ones. This may be more involved I think, and I have a feeling more than a couple of panels will need to be removed. I'd just like to limit that to the bare minimum.
Things have gotten worse though... I popped out this morning to pick up a multimeter as my previous one seems to have bought it. On my return to the house I couldn't get the windows to close, or the driver's side door to open. Took a good 5 minutes for the door release to operate, and then when I returned ready to fault-find I discovered that one of the doors now thinks it's continually open.
So:
No dipped beams,
Main beam only works when stalk pulled - not when pushed forward,
Drivers side window refuses to move. Passenger side will move but only up and down to halfway up.
One of the door senders is not operating,
Drivers side door release is intermittent.
All of which were perfect two days ago.
Wow... I think I may need a bigger multimeter!
To get access to the door ecu's (or whatever they're called) you need to remove the centre console by undoing the 2 screws at the front, and the 3rd which you need to pull out the rear air vent to get access to.
The encoders are located under the ash tray. Try swapping them over.
The encoders are located under the ash tray. Try swapping them over.
Edited by Cockey on Sunday 16th June 19:40
Probably not the problem, but check all the earths you can see/find for good connection, especially the engine earth (think its under the airbox).
The fuse box is a PITA to see properly, so make sure fuses and relays are in the correct slots.
Some cars have had a failure of the connections to the rotary light switch. Pod is easily removed for you to check and tighten these.
Good luck - enjoy the Tusc I miss mine apart from the bills
and the twitchy handling.
The fuse box is a PITA to see properly, so make sure fuses and relays are in the correct slots.
Some cars have had a failure of the connections to the rotary light switch. Pod is easily removed for you to check and tighten these.
Good luck - enjoy the Tusc I miss mine apart from the bills
and the twitchy handling. Thanks for the replies, at the very least I feel like I might actually be able to troubleshoot this myself. I'm sure with a bit of wiggle testing and perseverance I'll solve the dipped beams, I'd rather make sure my investigations are well directed!
The ability to fully enclose the car is now the most pressing. I will have a look at the swapping the door/window modules, but the issue seems to be on both sides. The car's alarm fob does function, and under normal conditions will raise the windows when the alarm is activated.
I went back down to the car just now and managed to both windows raised fully... no sign of the "open door" warning. Popped off for a cigarette and returned to tackle the headlights and the driver's side window wouldn't lower when the door open was pressed. Getting back in through the passenger side the window lowered to allow me to open, but I'm back to square one with the issue... except now I can't open the drivers door past the bodywork without taking the roof off first!!!
Warning is back, driver's window is closed but won't move, passengers side has limited movement. The intermittent nature of the issue makes me think it might be moisture related as I went out in the dry with the roof off and got caught in a downpour prior to the problem.
At the very least I'm finding this more amusing than troubling... for now.
The ability to fully enclose the car is now the most pressing. I will have a look at the swapping the door/window modules, but the issue seems to be on both sides. The car's alarm fob does function, and under normal conditions will raise the windows when the alarm is activated.
I went back down to the car just now and managed to both windows raised fully... no sign of the "open door" warning. Popped off for a cigarette and returned to tackle the headlights and the driver's side window wouldn't lower when the door open was pressed. Getting back in through the passenger side the window lowered to allow me to open, but I'm back to square one with the issue... except now I can't open the drivers door past the bodywork without taking the roof off first!!!
Warning is back, driver's window is closed but won't move, passengers side has limited movement. The intermittent nature of the issue makes me think it might be moisture related as I went out in the dry with the roof off and got caught in a downpour prior to the problem.
At the very least I'm finding this more amusing than troubling... for now.
Thanks to all. Door microswitches sound fine. Door panels off tonight and hairdryer out... Lights will have to wait.
I guess the lesson is if it starts raining even while in heavy traffic get out and put the roof on straight away.
Still sounds and looks wonderful, It's quite difficult to get too frustrated with her.
I guess the lesson is if it starts raining even while in heavy traffic get out and put the roof on straight away.
Still sounds and looks wonderful, It's quite difficult to get too frustrated with her.
Not sure if this will help as mine is a MK2, but I had a problem recently when I was driving the car and stopped. I turned the open door knob to find the door sprung open without lowering the window. I took it for a drive and it was fine, if a little slow in raising the window so thought nothng of it. Took it out again a few weeks later same problem to the point of getting in and out of the passenger side. Took it to the garage and they started by removing the ECU's for the doors,after trying the up and down buttons, and the alarm fob, which were all OK, I noted that when the O/S ECU is removed the boot solenoid stops working. They then went to the door electrics with the door card removed, they twisted and turned the cable plugs and with that one of the wires popped out of the plug, it had not been fully crimped into the plug. It was then by passed with a bullet connector problem solved. Hope this helps when you take your door cards off.
A few hours of tinkering with the door encoders and microswitches tonight has managed to kick the windows back into full effect... Bit of contact spray on the encoders and a reset of the ECUs by pulling and replacing the fuses did the trick, along with a bit of fiddling with the passenger side microswitch which was operational but not being fully engaged by the lock.
Given that it's light until late I can now risk the trip up north I really wanted to make in her tomorrow.
I still need to get to the bottom of the lights issue eventually. My tinkering seems to have resulted in the sidelights packing up too... perhaps it's a bit late to remove the pod, but I have noticed a loose wire sitting beside the dipped beam relay which goes up into the pod. It's one of a sheathed pair, the other of which is connected to one of the terminals of the sidelights relay.
Oh well. Something for the weekend perhaps, at least I can get out now and enjoy the security of full closure (and the return of my pressures and temperatures coupled with the loss of the annoying squeal of "Door Open!"
I felt a bit daunted there for a while... thanks for the replies folks, they helped keep my resolve to press on and sort this myself!
Given that it's light until late I can now risk the trip up north I really wanted to make in her tomorrow.
I still need to get to the bottom of the lights issue eventually. My tinkering seems to have resulted in the sidelights packing up too... perhaps it's a bit late to remove the pod, but I have noticed a loose wire sitting beside the dipped beam relay which goes up into the pod. It's one of a sheathed pair, the other of which is connected to one of the terminals of the sidelights relay.
Oh well. Something for the weekend perhaps, at least I can get out now and enjoy the security of full closure (and the return of my pressures and temperatures coupled with the loss of the annoying squeal of "Door Open!"
I felt a bit daunted there for a while... thanks for the replies folks, they helped keep my resolve to press on and sort this myself!
Took the pod off today to help diagnose my issue with side and dipped beams not working.
The rotary switch for the headlight is working fine, and the fog light is able to be switched on when it's turned on. However while the orange LED glow around the fog light works, for the rotary knob it doesn't. The dipped beams work when the main beam is on, and the relay for it is happily clicking away on the fuse panel when it is switched.
The fact that the headlight switch works and the head/foglight PCB seems to be working has led me to such I suspect a relay on one of the stack of PCBs in the pod is the problem. The fog and hazard lights both cause relays to click on the furthest back PCB, but the headlight switch does not at either sidelight or dipped beam states.
How easy are the in-pod PCBs to get a hold of?
I can't see any stockists on the internet, so I'm starting to think that this will end up having to go to a specialist...
The rotary switch for the headlight is working fine, and the fog light is able to be switched on when it's turned on. However while the orange LED glow around the fog light works, for the rotary knob it doesn't. The dipped beams work when the main beam is on, and the relay for it is happily clicking away on the fuse panel when it is switched.
The fact that the headlight switch works and the head/foglight PCB seems to be working has led me to such I suspect a relay on one of the stack of PCBs in the pod is the problem. The fog and hazard lights both cause relays to click on the furthest back PCB, but the headlight switch does not at either sidelight or dipped beam states.
How easy are the in-pod PCBs to get a hold of?
I can't see any stockists on the internet, so I'm starting to think that this will end up having to go to a specialist...
blueg33 said:
There is a lady who repairs them. Hopefully someone will post her contact details for the OP
PS Electronics could possibly help http://pselectronicsolutions.co.ukor the lady referred to is Cath Mason cathymason73@hotmail.com
NCE 61 said:
PS Electronics could possibly help http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk
or the lady referred to is Cath Mason cathymason73@hotmail.com
That's her, Cathy Mason, as I understand it she assembles the pod PCB's at TVR whe the cars were made.or the lady referred to is Cath Mason cathymason73@hotmail.com
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