Engine caught fire!

[glow worm]

Surface & Design in Blackpool the ex TVR lads (Andy,Dave and Potato Muncher on here). They're using Peter Brenns soln. that he put on here. (Peter sent me all the dimensions etc. and has been really helpful)..Still haven't decided if I want twin stays or twin gas struts...pros & cons either way.
I've been waiting for them to move back into Bristol Avenue, once they're settled after Christmas I'm hoping they have a bit more space than at Wakefield Road.

Edited by glow worm on Sunday 14th December 18:28

[VARLEYHYD]

KillerJim said:

Hi Graham,
Can you clarify a few points (might be in your manual but I`ll ask as I`m planning on recabling in about a month)...

VARLEYHYD said:

Check the length of the cable that goes around the chassis will be long enough to stretch to the new +ve position

What do you mean by this? - "goes around the chassis will be long enough to stretch"

The one that goes around the bottom chassis will not stretch, but I guess you will need to make a new one to my dimensions above in readiness-

VARLEYHYD said:

The Anderson connector leads maybe be too long so cut these back if
you want.

Killerjim said:

Did u remove your Anderson connector or just replace it with a better one?
J

Removed and re-used the existing anderson and cut the cables back to sensible lengths as they were too long for me.
The best improvement is fit the durite plug/cover to fit the existing anderson and pack with grease - problem solved.

G

[BigJL]

unrepentant said:

Having had my own Tuscan go up in flames 9 months ago (see pic) you have my commiserations. Mine was not an Anderson connector issue I hasten to add.

1. The bolted down bonnet (going on what I was told) is necessary for rigidity.

2. It is pretty easy to get in without power but it takes a couple of mins so I guess not useful in the event of a fire.

3. I love the no handle look personally but take your point.

4. Agreed.

5. See 2. Where do other manufacturers put the fuel cut off switch? I have no idea where it is on any of my cars. Would it make a difference anyway?

For rigidity they could have just added some strut braces across the engine bay, it would have made life much easier, surely?

I'm aware of the other entry method but as you mention while the car is burning, in the dark surrounded by smoke, it wouldn't be the easiest job! Plus when the car is on fire you don't want to be that close to it, let alone clambering around inside! lol

Hmm, not sure where the fuel cut off normally goes. Probably in the boot. But then most cars let you open the boot without power... probably wouldn't have made much difference in this case either way!

So depressing so many TVRs are going out this way

[yzf1070]

First off so sad for you and I hope the damage is repairable at a reasonable cost. Again this point high lights a very serious and vulnerable problem but there are simple solutions if one cares enough to address them.

I like Graham's (VarleyHYD) solution and could only suggest adding an isolation switch (competition style key switch), I am having one fitted to my car at the moment between the battery positive and the starter/anderson connector. The anderson connector absolutely has to be packed with grease on the cable termination side and I would doubt this is even checked at most service stations.

All you guys with older cars especially, should get this area looked at pronto.

Unrepentant, I had no idea you had lost your Tuscan 2 in a fire, that's one hell of a mess and looks like it burned for sometime, however good to see you stuck with the S6 and in Sag format too.

[tripleblack]

Hi guys,

I'm sort of new here. I'm from Holland and I own a Space Halcyon Pearl 2001 Tuscan S that is kept warm in my garage during this winter. The pictures shown here look like a real nightmare. I Used to have Mustangs before and saw some nice battery upgrades there. Would it be easy to have the battery cables extended from the original compartment and have the battery installed in the trunk area? Not only safer but also easier for maintenance. I guess you can charge it from there, so this Anderson plug will become a non-issue. A standard battery tray from any car can be used, and if you use a cover on it, you don't have any risks of shorting with luggage or so.
Peter

[so called]

tripleblack said:

Hi guys,

I'm sort of new here. I'm from Holland and I own a Space Halcyon Pearl 2001 Tuscan S that is kept warm in my garage during this winter. The pictures shown here look like a real nightmare. I Used to have Mustangs before and saw some nice battery upgrades there. Would it be easy to have the battery cables extended from the original compartment and have the battery installed in the trunk area? Not only safer but also easier for maintenance. I guess you can charge it from there, so this Anderson plug will become a non-issue. A standard battery tray from any car can be used, and if you use a cover on it, you don't have any risks of shorting with luggage or so.
Peter

I've been having so much flat battery trouble just lately that I am thinking this is what I want to do. I can get the cables checked / renewed at the same time.

[NTEL]

tripleblack said:

Would it be easy to have the battery cables extended from the original compartment and have the battery installed in the trunk area? Not only safer but also easier for maintenance. I guess you can charge it from there, so this Anderson plug will become a non-issue. A standard battery tray from any car can be used, and if you use a cover on it, you don't have any risks of shorting with luggage or so.
Peter

Hmmmmm.... Nice idea but not sure I would want the battery sat next to the fuel tank

[tripleblack]

The fuel tank is not an issue that I'm struggling with. There are lots of nice battery relocation kits for sale, though you have to take one wich is sealed and have the vent tubes. I would be interested in this sealed Moroso. With this one you should be okay in combination with the fuel tank. But just throwing your battery into the trunk and extending the battery cables is the wrong way to go about doing it. I could quote all sorts of laws and theories about why it's bad to wire the relocated battery like this and throw around terms such as "voltage drop," "Ohm's Law," "current flow," and "resistance," but only a few of you wattage-inclined enthusiasts would bother to continue reading. Needs some more to do the job, but that would be a nice project.

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv6batt.htm

Peter

Edited by tripleblack on Monday 15th December 14:08

[Barry Ashcroft]

I went to Merlin Motorsport today to get a rubber boot to sort out my coroded Anderson plug tomorrow as I'm nervous.

Found these on ebay very good prices

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-ANDERSON-SB-175-AMP-...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WEATHERPROOF-BOOT-FOR-SB-175...

Both items £9.40 delivered (Bargain)
Just the boot today cost me £8

[tripleblack]

Hi,
I had a good thought about it and decided to keep the original spot for my battery. I swapped the old one for a new Optima Red Top gel battery with a waterproof on/off switch in a hidden place that can be easily accessed. I made a special base to tighten the battery in the compartment. The Anderson plug has been changed for a normal charging point for an Optimate 4 trickle charger. It looks to me that this battery issue is over for my car. I will make some pictures begin next week that i'll post here.
Peter

[tuskkev]

Peter
I have been thinking about changing my original tvr battery for a red top, do you know the model number of the one you used? Does it have a cca of about 830? Would be interested to see how you mounted it as from the pictures I have seen of the red tops you wouldn't be able to use the original plate and bolt for holding the battery in place.
kev

[so called]

I've had a "Battery Brain" fitted. (and a new battery) the Brain is a remote controlled contactor with a key fob type control unit. It has stopped my monthly flat battery problem, gives me added security and a quick way to isolate the the battery if needed.
Only problem now is I just crashed my Tuscan and it could be a write off.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[froggie]

my cousin kept telling me my cerbra was on fire under the bonnet,i could see between the boot and screen a white whisper coming from the bulk head area (bonnet and boot were open)i thaught it was steam as it was raining untill i saw flames which i put out using the fire extinguishers i carried one inside and one in the boot, i spent two hrs looking for the caures and couldnt find one or any burnt wiring..
when i went to pull away the cluutch pedal hit the floor. on close examination the metal braded clutch bleed pipe had hit the main power lead nut on the starter motor and the metal protection had shorted the power lead to earth wherethe pipe bolted to the bellhousing,it then got hot,melted the plastic tube inside and thus spilling clutch fluid which caught fire

there have been a few cerbras suffer clutch pedal hitting the boards before catching fire..i was lucky some were not.i posted my findings on the forum.
i have also baught tuscans with air box fires,
the other thing i think to watch is the exorst manifolds heating the bonnets up

this is just an example of what can go wrong with this standard of toy.
please note the speed 6 starter is in a different position than a v8

[Jim Green]

I've just removed the anderson connector on my Tuscan, it just wasn't worth keeping on there with the potential hazards it causes. Once I've thought out a better way of replacing it with something more reliable than I'll do it, but at the moment I'm quite happy to turn the wheel on full right hand lock, remove the cover and trickle charge the battery every now and again using the traditional battery terminals and croc clips. It takes less than five minutes to do this (Removing battery cover) and I don't have that niggling worry that the anderson connector could cause a fire on a car I've just about got perfect.

It's not loosing the car to a fire that would hurt so much, it's the last six months of effort I've put into perfecting the car. I don't want to loose it to a sub standard part like the famous Anderson Connector.

[Whitey]

Jim Green said:

It's not loosing the car to a fire that would hurt so much, it's the last six months of effort I've put into perfecting the car. I don't want to loose it to a sub standard part like the famous Anderson Connector.

Is it the anderson connector that is at fault? Surely if fitted correctly and packed with grease and the battery connections secured correctly all is fine?

Is it not the battery cables wearing out and shorting against the chassis that is the problem?

[Whitey]

actually just re-read the above battery charger fault thread and it seems the Anderson connector is fitted with the wrong bolt sometimes leading to shorting onto the battery cable, must get mine replaced asap, I've used it over the last almost 9 years with no issues, I don't remember it being replaced.

[froggie]

unrependant was yours an early mk2? if it is the one im thinking of i ended up with some parts from it,what was the corse of the fire?

[unrepentant]

froggie said:

unrependant was yours an early mk2? if it is the one im thinking of i ended up with some parts from it,what was the corse of the fire?

Mine was a March 05 car and was taken to Doncaster. The cause of the fire was never established for certain, or if it was the insurance inspector never told me, but the consensus was that it was petrol spitting back and igniting the air filter. (It caught fire whilst I was attempting to start it when it was cold). I was subsequently told of at least 1 other that caught fire in that way.

[froggie]

hope the insurance looked after you ok.it must of been quite new at the time bet you were in a state when she went up, back fire is a common corse.ive just rebuilt an mv agusta back fired through the plastic air box. im working on a new alloy air intake arangement at the moment should rectify this problem and increase air flow. Ah well tis the same car, i striped some parts off, beleive it or not i even recoverd the radiator,and front indicator surrounds,oil and water tanks,steering rack and front suspention,to name a few bits although cosmeticaly challanged.i wanted to buy it and re shell it with a sagaris at the time but .John wouldnt sell it in 1 go.she wasnt too bad once i pulled the singed matting back,i could of repaired that with just a front end.I itched for a fortnight
nice color and funky dash too

[Jim Green]

Whitey said:

actually just re-read the above battery charger fault thread and it seems the Anderson connector is fitted with the wrong bolt sometimes leading to shorting onto the battery cable, must get mine replaced asap, I've used it over the last almost 9 years with no issues, I don't remember it being replaced.

I was about to fit the rubber sleeve to my Anderson Connector on my 52 Plate Mk1 Tuscan, but when I removed the Anderson Connector, I saw how badly it had been fitted and that it had started to crack where the bold goes through...... It appears to have been drilled and tapped in the center of the plug, between the two heavy duty cables, and then the bolt goes through the connector and into the chassis bracket..... On closer inspection it was obvious that over time, the plastic casing of the Anderson Connector had become brittle and had started to crack between the two terminal where the securing bolt goes through the center of the connector. Worst case scanario is that it would have eventually cracked apart, possibly letting the main power lead become exposed and possibly touch the chassis if the connector had broke apart, causing a short and the potentially causing a fire. The securing bolt that goes through the "Tapped" hole in the plug, is relatively large and there is very little material (Platic)left between the bolt the Pos/Neg cables in the connector.

So for the time being I removed the Anderson Connector and cabling until I get a new connector. I have heard that you can get an Anderson Connector but made from a heavy rubber, which would eliminate the possiblity of a plastic connector cracking over time. I would then prefer to secure it to the chassis by something other than a bold going through the connector which passes between the two terminals, and could over time end up shorting out against one of the connections.

I'll this thread updated when I find something better.