For the love of Tuscan (project build)
Discussion
Heated seat pads and seat rebuild.
Just to get the seats wrapped-up here's the heated seat pads fitted to the seat back cushions, similar was done for the seat base cushions, but instead of having the cushion sown back up afterwards I had a zip fitted for easy access to the cushion and heater pad if needed. The heater pad cable for the upper section is fed through a hole to the back of the cushion ready to connect to the loom.
The leather seat covers and foam are fitted to the hoop frame with hog rings, and rather than use the factory Velcro to hold the shape of curved contour (which just comes unstuck) in the backrest I used cord attached to the back of the seam and pulled through the foam which is a more secure method similar what is used in modern seats.
Seat base rebuilt
Seats ready to go...
Just to get the seats wrapped-up here's the heated seat pads fitted to the seat back cushions, similar was done for the seat base cushions, but instead of having the cushion sown back up afterwards I had a zip fitted for easy access to the cushion and heater pad if needed. The heater pad cable for the upper section is fed through a hole to the back of the cushion ready to connect to the loom.
The leather seat covers and foam are fitted to the hoop frame with hog rings, and rather than use the factory Velcro to hold the shape of curved contour (which just comes unstuck) in the backrest I used cord attached to the back of the seam and pulled through the foam which is a more secure method similar what is used in modern seats.
Seat base rebuilt
Seats ready to go...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 22:58
You couldn't do it without removing the seat back pad and leather cover (no need to touch the hoop part of the seat back) but it's not as bad as it sounds, you just need hog rings/pliers to re-attach the leather cover to the seat frame. I didn't make it clear above but I used 2 separate heater pads for each backrest cut down then I made up a loom to connect them both together. 1 pad cut down for the base cushion. Still not made my mind up where to mount the switches yet but I'll cross that bridge when the interior install kicks off.
The heater pads don't interfere with the lumber bladder as this sits at the back of the seat cushion between the cushion and plastic shell. The pads don't get hot enough to melt anything...just your buttocks
The heater pads don't interfere with the lumber bladder as this sits at the back of the seat cushion between the cushion and plastic shell. The pads don't get hot enough to melt anything...just your buttocks
Thanks, that's interesting Fermit, is all TVR factory leather that type? I'm no leather expert, it does seem to be very good quality smooth/nappa (no grain) that wears well, but it does seem pouros as I have already treated it to a Neatsfoot oil main course albeit I left it for a few weeks to fully absorb, followed buy a NAF leather food desert and it's now beautifully soft and supple, something I would recommend to anyone leaving their TVR over the winter to do.
So as mentioned in an earlier post, my Tuscan's boot lid scuffs the rear screen when opening and closing and rests on the screen when closed and no amount of hinge adjustments would sort it. So as the Tuscan will be getting a respray I decided the only way forward was to re-profile the leading edge of the lid. Here's how I did it...
Just to proof my boot lid actually sits quite well...
But over the years the stress of the lid scuffing the screen has caused cracks in the leading edge...
I noticed that the leading edge had a straight section to it which doesn't help, and as it's just about the only straight line on the Tuscan's body I set about turning it into a curve to match the profile of the rear screen...
So about 8mm had to go...
I find a flap disc and angle grinder work really well on fibreglass...
No obvious difference viewed from the rear...
It deffinately improved things but it was still sat on the screen so the depth/thickness of the leading edge needs to be profiled as well. Obviously you need to be aware that the lid is made up of 2 halves (top side and underside) bonded together, and I noticed in 2 places the fibreglass became quite thin so I broke through it and pushed a mix of resin and fibreglass inside to add strength back in.
Sorted
New hinges and stainless gas strut fitted.
If your Tuscan has the same issue could get away without having the top of the boot lid painted and just paint the bare fibreglass black so it doesn't standout or get a rattle can paint match, mask off the top side and paint it yourself.
Just to proof my boot lid actually sits quite well...
But over the years the stress of the lid scuffing the screen has caused cracks in the leading edge...
I noticed that the leading edge had a straight section to it which doesn't help, and as it's just about the only straight line on the Tuscan's body I set about turning it into a curve to match the profile of the rear screen...
So about 8mm had to go...
I find a flap disc and angle grinder work really well on fibreglass...
No obvious difference viewed from the rear...
It deffinately improved things but it was still sat on the screen so the depth/thickness of the leading edge needs to be profiled as well. Obviously you need to be aware that the lid is made up of 2 halves (top side and underside) bonded together, and I noticed in 2 places the fibreglass became quite thin so I broke through it and pushed a mix of resin and fibreglass inside to add strength back in.
Sorted
New hinges and stainless gas strut fitted.
If your Tuscan has the same issue could get away without having the top of the boot lid painted and just paint the bare fibreglass black so it doesn't standout or get a rattle can paint match, mask off the top side and paint it yourself.
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 23:06
Thanks Fermit, do you know who supplied their leather? My leather looks great but I'll keep an eye on it. It definitely needed a thorough clean, mould spores killed and 'moisturised' with something after 20years use. Looks and smells like new leather now.
BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
Fermit said:
Re the mould problem, this is the product you want - https://www.lttleathercare.com/product/em-clean/
Mould was sorted with my watered down distilled white vinegar recipe, believe me the leather only smells like a chippy for 2 or 3 days max afterwards then just smells like new leather 
...that's what I meant, your Prussian blue seats, they're almost as rare as the paintwork on my Tuscan.
Speaking of which, I have literally stumbled across the exact colour of my Tuscan. When the car arrived with me I noticed there were window stickers on the quarterlights that were faded beyond recognition, or so I thought! When I came to scrape them off the other day, on closer inspection I could just about make out the very faint impression that read 'Paintwork by Custom Exotics'. So I gave them a call...when I explained to the guy that answered about my car he said, 'Oh you've got Jim's car!' And put me on to their painter Scott who straight away knew my car and the owner and remembered doing the job and most importantly the paint colour!
Turns out it's a House of Kolor paint called Ice Violet, and...he had enough sat on the shelf to paint my car! I offered to buy it off him but he wouldn't take my money, he was just happy to see it go to good use and was keen to see my car when finished. What a top bloke! I of course paid for the courier and some beer money but I now have 4 litres of pre-thinned House Of Kolor SG150 Intercoat Pearl & Flake Karrier with the right amount of IP04 Ice Violet flake mixed in with it. This is sprayed over a black base coat then lacquered. Scott has been really helpful and I can vouch for the quality of his work from how well and thoroughly my car was painted, so a big shout out to Scott at Custom Exotics in Harlow, Essex.
Here's the paint
Scott also saw the car after its recent accident and confirmed that it had been parked-up off the road when a car mounted the pavement and hit it in the rear shunting it into something else causing the slight damage to the front. He was prepared to do the paintwork again for the owner but the insurance wrote it off and he didn't get the chance.
So it turns out I had been sat on the answer to my cars unknown colour all along! House of Kolor IP04 Ice Violet...
Speaking of which, I have literally stumbled across the exact colour of my Tuscan. When the car arrived with me I noticed there were window stickers on the quarterlights that were faded beyond recognition, or so I thought! When I came to scrape them off the other day, on closer inspection I could just about make out the very faint impression that read 'Paintwork by Custom Exotics'. So I gave them a call...when I explained to the guy that answered about my car he said, 'Oh you've got Jim's car!' And put me on to their painter Scott who straight away knew my car and the owner and remembered doing the job and most importantly the paint colour!
Turns out it's a House of Kolor paint called Ice Violet, and...he had enough sat on the shelf to paint my car! I offered to buy it off him but he wouldn't take my money, he was just happy to see it go to good use and was keen to see my car when finished. What a top bloke! I of course paid for the courier and some beer money but I now have 4 litres of pre-thinned House Of Kolor SG150 Intercoat Pearl & Flake Karrier with the right amount of IP04 Ice Violet flake mixed in with it. This is sprayed over a black base coat then lacquered. Scott has been really helpful and I can vouch for the quality of his work from how well and thoroughly my car was painted, so a big shout out to Scott at Custom Exotics in Harlow, Essex.
Here's the paint
Scott also saw the car after its recent accident and confirmed that it had been parked-up off the road when a car mounted the pavement and hit it in the rear shunting it into something else causing the slight damage to the front. He was prepared to do the paintwork again for the owner but the insurance wrote it off and he didn't get the chance.
So it turns out I had been sat on the answer to my cars unknown colour all along! House of Kolor IP04 Ice Violet...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 09:47
LED rear lights
So I've decided to replace the old rear filament bulb light units with LED units. I wanted a symmetrical look as I don't like the look of a reverse light on one side and fog light on the other so to achieve this I needed a multipurpose LED unit, i.e. each unit has a combination of running lights/brake/fog/reverse/reflectors built in.
So the factory rear lights consist of outer driving/brake lights (75mm), fog inner right (75mm), reverse inner left (75mm) and reflectors x2 in between these lights (60mm).
So for the 75mm lights I chose these 70mm clear units, each unit has red driving LEDs, red brake/fog LEDs and white reverse LEDs so these can be fitted in all 4 75mm positions. These will be wire to give 4x red driving, 4x red brake lights and 4x white reverse lights (overkill I know but you can't have too much light when reversing in the dark)
And for the smaller 60mm reflectors I found these 59mm LED units that also act as a reflector with red driving and brighter red fog LEDs, I will wire these for driving and fog lights.
So I will have 6x red driving, 4x white reverse, 2x fog and 2x reflectors to cover all the bases. Should even things up at the rear and look well lit in the dark.
But before I can fit the 75mm unit I need to fill in the where the old 75mm light units were glued in place.
Discs cut from plastic/foam composite board...
And bonded in place which resin and fibreglass tape...
Lights test fitted, just need wiring up but will do this after the re-spray...
So I've decided to replace the old rear filament bulb light units with LED units. I wanted a symmetrical look as I don't like the look of a reverse light on one side and fog light on the other so to achieve this I needed a multipurpose LED unit, i.e. each unit has a combination of running lights/brake/fog/reverse/reflectors built in.
So the factory rear lights consist of outer driving/brake lights (75mm), fog inner right (75mm), reverse inner left (75mm) and reflectors x2 in between these lights (60mm).
So for the 75mm lights I chose these 70mm clear units, each unit has red driving LEDs, red brake/fog LEDs and white reverse LEDs so these can be fitted in all 4 75mm positions. These will be wire to give 4x red driving, 4x red brake lights and 4x white reverse lights (overkill I know but you can't have too much light when reversing in the dark)
And for the smaller 60mm reflectors I found these 59mm LED units that also act as a reflector with red driving and brighter red fog LEDs, I will wire these for driving and fog lights.
So I will have 6x red driving, 4x white reverse, 2x fog and 2x reflectors to cover all the bases. Should even things up at the rear and look well lit in the dark.
But before I can fit the 75mm unit I need to fill in the where the old 75mm light units were glued in place.
Discs cut from plastic/foam composite board...
And bonded in place which resin and fibreglass tape...
Lights test fitted, just need wiring up but will do this after the re-spray...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:18
Bonnet mods
The usual Allen Howell big bonnet gas struts fitted
Decided to do the same for the small bonnet and fit a single gas strut instead of the factory 'prop', but you need to cut a section out of the big bonnet to clear the strut when extended and to allow the small bonnet to fold away...
Test fit with the section cut away
And a cardboard template of the replacement section fitted...
Ready to bond a new fibreglass section in
Trimmed and filled
Test fit before final sanding
Next bodywork mod, LED rear lights...
The usual Allen Howell big bonnet gas struts fitted
Decided to do the same for the small bonnet and fit a single gas strut instead of the factory 'prop', but you need to cut a section out of the big bonnet to clear the strut when extended and to allow the small bonnet to fold away...
Test fit with the section cut away
And a cardboard template of the replacement section fitted...
Ready to bond a new fibreglass section in
Trimmed and filled
Test fit before final sanding
Next bodywork mod, LED rear lights...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:27
Sct_w4 looks like you've more to remove than me or you've put more back in ;-)
Thanks PG, more like Jack of...
Seems I'm at the stage where there's more bits off the car than on, and the more bits I remove the more I find needs to be removed but getting there slowly.
Next on the agenda:
windscreen chip repair
boot inner skin mod and solenoid relocation
dashpod repairs & new screen mod
window switches refurb & assign boot release and door lock functions to window switch push
fuel tank refurb
carbon seat backs
general stripdown for bodyshop...
Thanks PG, more like Jack of...
Seems I'm at the stage where there's more bits off the car than on, and the more bits I remove the more I find needs to be removed but getting there slowly.
Next on the agenda:
windscreen chip repair
boot inner skin mod and solenoid relocation
dashpod repairs & new screen mod
window switches refurb & assign boot release and door lock functions to window switch push
fuel tank refurb
carbon seat backs
general stripdown for bodyshop...
sct_w4 said:
Well, the body is sat on a couple of fence posts and acting as storage for anything and everything that came off it. The main chassis is at Sportmotive, all four corners are dotted around my garage, the engine is on a stand and everything I have finished/painted/refurbished ready to go back on is in the spare room resting nicely on the bed. I am definitely waaaaay behind you!
When I get the time and regain some sort of sanity, I’ll stick a topic on like yourself with pictures, descriptions etc.
Keep up the work!
I have a mahoosive to do list which really helps me focus on what needs to be done next and prioritise, I've deliberately not even looked at suspension/brakes etc so I don't get distracted...When I get the time and regain some sort of sanity, I’ll stick a topic on like yourself with pictures, descriptions etc.
Keep up the work!
Looking fwd to see a thread on your car.
Windscreen repair
So there was a fairly large chip on the windsreen right in the drivers line of view or zone A in MOT speak which I was sure would be an MOT failure but it was picked up as only an advisery as far back as 2011 as it is less than 1cm in diameter (greater than 4cm is a fail as it turns out!!), but I wanted to get it fixed to remove any chance of it developing and cracking the screen.
The white tape on the left marks the position of the chip, the other 2 white markers on the right are for a couple tiny chips for the repairer to check but they were deemed not worthy of bothering with...
I had a local windscreen repair company look at it who said they could fill it but it wouldn't change it's appearance, but they said Autoglass have patented equipment that could make it dissapear, so I gave them a call. Autoglass's equipment forces resin through the chip/cracks to clean out any dirt and then fill it...
Then a UV lamp cures the resin
And bingo, virtually invisible and comes with a lifetime guarantee for as long as I own the car. Cost £215 but that's alot cheaper than a new screen...
So there was a fairly large chip on the windsreen right in the drivers line of view or zone A in MOT speak which I was sure would be an MOT failure but it was picked up as only an advisery as far back as 2011 as it is less than 1cm in diameter (greater than 4cm is a fail as it turns out!!), but I wanted to get it fixed to remove any chance of it developing and cracking the screen.
The white tape on the left marks the position of the chip, the other 2 white markers on the right are for a couple tiny chips for the repairer to check but they were deemed not worthy of bothering with...
I had a local windscreen repair company look at it who said they could fill it but it wouldn't change it's appearance, but they said Autoglass have patented equipment that could make it dissapear, so I gave them a call. Autoglass's equipment forces resin through the chip/cracks to clean out any dirt and then fill it...
Then a UV lamp cures the resin
And bingo, virtually invisible and comes with a lifetime guarantee for as long as I own the car. Cost £215 but that's alot cheaper than a new screen...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:33
Boot latch & solenoid mod
So as part of the bodywork repairs to the rear of the car I had to cut away the fibreglass inner skin that the boot lid latch and solenoid are fixed to.
When removing this panel I was struck how flimsy and tatty it looked, it also restricted access to components behind it such as the boot latch badge switch, solenoid and wiring to the number plate lamps etc and was surprised how much space was lost behind it that could be used for 'cubby' storage for tools/tyre compressor/jack etc that would normally rattle around in the boot. So I decided to come up with an alternative.
To add strength back in to where the boot latch sits I went for an aluminium extrusion used for 3D printer framework that has slots for mounting components, so I could bolt the latch to one side and the solenoid the other, this would then form a central support for 2 removeable panels to fix to that could incorporate storage nets etc. Two notches need to be cut out to accommodate the latch...
I purchased an as new boot latch from a Ford Ka MK1 which is identical but has short solenoid cables perfect for mounting the solenoid close to the latch
And a more up to date solenoid and mechanism from a Fiesta
And mounted them both on the aluminium extrusion
Bonded the extrusion in place
Fitted a new plug for the solenoid
I also bonded in place 2 20x20mm extrusions either side of the boot so the rear panels have something to fix to but can't find any pics, will add later. Then I made cardboard templates of the removeable panels that will be cut-out from aluminium composite board, I will decide on cut-outs for storage at a later date.
So as part of the bodywork repairs to the rear of the car I had to cut away the fibreglass inner skin that the boot lid latch and solenoid are fixed to.
When removing this panel I was struck how flimsy and tatty it looked, it also restricted access to components behind it such as the boot latch badge switch, solenoid and wiring to the number plate lamps etc and was surprised how much space was lost behind it that could be used for 'cubby' storage for tools/tyre compressor/jack etc that would normally rattle around in the boot. So I decided to come up with an alternative.
To add strength back in to where the boot latch sits I went for an aluminium extrusion used for 3D printer framework that has slots for mounting components, so I could bolt the latch to one side and the solenoid the other, this would then form a central support for 2 removeable panels to fix to that could incorporate storage nets etc. Two notches need to be cut out to accommodate the latch...
I purchased an as new boot latch from a Ford Ka MK1 which is identical but has short solenoid cables perfect for mounting the solenoid close to the latch
And a more up to date solenoid and mechanism from a Fiesta
And mounted them both on the aluminium extrusion
Bonded the extrusion in place
Fitted a new plug for the solenoid
I also bonded in place 2 20x20mm extrusions either side of the boot so the rear panels have something to fix to but can't find any pics, will add later. Then I made cardboard templates of the removeable panels that will be cut-out from aluminium composite board, I will decide on cut-outs for storage at a later date.
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:40
Raffaele said:
hello you could see the photos of the interior finished with alcantara and leather instead of carpets and know exactly the materials used I would like to use those materials too
Yes I stumbled across your pics on facebook, that interior must have cost a small fortune, my interior will be a lot more conservative...Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:42
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