Lack of light.
Discussion
After years of eminently sensible cars I have finally taken the plunge and bought the one I fell in love with when I saw it on a motorshow stand as student. It's a very early MK1 example, and five days into ownership I am absolutely loving it: the noise, the sense of occasion, the overwhelmingly positive reaction of pedestrians and other road users... I can't believe I didn't do this earlier!
But...
Running home this evening in the fading light I realised the headlights I thought were switched on weren't at all, just the sidelights. Pulled over and checked fuses, which were all OK.
As I headed back towards home almost invisible to those ahead of me save for the tiny sidelights I discovered that the main beam would not work properly either (it works fine to flash by pulling back on the stalk, but pushing forward does nothing)
On the basis both faults appeared at once I'm concluding they are related. And I'm now fortifying myself to approach the garage tomorrow and do some fault finding.
I'm kind of hoping that I can benefit from somebody's wisdom and get some pointers as to the most likely places to start hunting for gremlins.
Thanks!
But...
Running home this evening in the fading light I realised the headlights I thought were switched on weren't at all, just the sidelights. Pulled over and checked fuses, which were all OK.
As I headed back towards home almost invisible to those ahead of me save for the tiny sidelights I discovered that the main beam would not work properly either (it works fine to flash by pulling back on the stalk, but pushing forward does nothing)
On the basis both faults appeared at once I'm concluding they are related. And I'm now fortifying myself to approach the garage tomorrow and do some fault finding.
I'm kind of hoping that I can benefit from somebody's wisdom and get some pointers as to the most likely places to start hunting for gremlins.
Thanks!
Nothing wrong with checking the total basics first ;-)
Yes, I've done that, swapped out fuses, had a wiggle of the relays and swapped out with similar ones. This may be more involved I think, and I have a feeling more than a couple of panels will need to be removed. I'd just like to limit that to the bare minimum.
Things have gotten worse though... I popped out this morning to pick up a multimeter as my previous one seems to have bought it. On my return to the house I couldn't get the windows to close, or the driver's side door to open. Took a good 5 minutes for the door release to operate, and then when I returned ready to fault-find I discovered that one of the doors now thinks it's continually open.
So:
No dipped beams,
Main beam only works when stalk pulled - not when pushed forward,
Drivers side window refuses to move. Passenger side will move but only up and down to halfway up.
One of the door senders is not operating,
Drivers side door release is intermittent.
All of which were perfect two days ago.
Wow... I think I may need a bigger multimeter!
Yes, I've done that, swapped out fuses, had a wiggle of the relays and swapped out with similar ones. This may be more involved I think, and I have a feeling more than a couple of panels will need to be removed. I'd just like to limit that to the bare minimum.
Things have gotten worse though... I popped out this morning to pick up a multimeter as my previous one seems to have bought it. On my return to the house I couldn't get the windows to close, or the driver's side door to open. Took a good 5 minutes for the door release to operate, and then when I returned ready to fault-find I discovered that one of the doors now thinks it's continually open.
So:
No dipped beams,
Main beam only works when stalk pulled - not when pushed forward,
Drivers side window refuses to move. Passenger side will move but only up and down to halfway up.
One of the door senders is not operating,
Drivers side door release is intermittent.
All of which were perfect two days ago.
Wow... I think I may need a bigger multimeter!
Thanks for the replies, at the very least I feel like I might actually be able to troubleshoot this myself. I'm sure with a bit of wiggle testing and perseverance I'll solve the dipped beams, I'd rather make sure my investigations are well directed!
The ability to fully enclose the car is now the most pressing. I will have a look at the swapping the door/window modules, but the issue seems to be on both sides. The car's alarm fob does function, and under normal conditions will raise the windows when the alarm is activated.
I went back down to the car just now and managed to both windows raised fully... no sign of the "open door" warning. Popped off for a cigarette and returned to tackle the headlights and the driver's side window wouldn't lower when the door open was pressed. Getting back in through the passenger side the window lowered to allow me to open, but I'm back to square one with the issue... except now I can't open the drivers door past the bodywork without taking the roof off first!!!
Warning is back, driver's window is closed but won't move, passengers side has limited movement. The intermittent nature of the issue makes me think it might be moisture related as I went out in the dry with the roof off and got caught in a downpour prior to the problem.
At the very least I'm finding this more amusing than troubling... for now.
The ability to fully enclose the car is now the most pressing. I will have a look at the swapping the door/window modules, but the issue seems to be on both sides. The car's alarm fob does function, and under normal conditions will raise the windows when the alarm is activated.
I went back down to the car just now and managed to both windows raised fully... no sign of the "open door" warning. Popped off for a cigarette and returned to tackle the headlights and the driver's side window wouldn't lower when the door open was pressed. Getting back in through the passenger side the window lowered to allow me to open, but I'm back to square one with the issue... except now I can't open the drivers door past the bodywork without taking the roof off first!!!
Warning is back, driver's window is closed but won't move, passengers side has limited movement. The intermittent nature of the issue makes me think it might be moisture related as I went out in the dry with the roof off and got caught in a downpour prior to the problem.
At the very least I'm finding this more amusing than troubling... for now.
Thanks to all. Door microswitches sound fine. Door panels off tonight and hairdryer out... Lights will have to wait.
I guess the lesson is if it starts raining even while in heavy traffic get out and put the roof on straight away.
Still sounds and looks wonderful, It's quite difficult to get too frustrated with her.
I guess the lesson is if it starts raining even while in heavy traffic get out and put the roof on straight away.
Still sounds and looks wonderful, It's quite difficult to get too frustrated with her.
A few hours of tinkering with the door encoders and microswitches tonight has managed to kick the windows back into full effect... Bit of contact spray on the encoders and a reset of the ECUs by pulling and replacing the fuses did the trick, along with a bit of fiddling with the passenger side microswitch which was operational but not being fully engaged by the lock.
Given that it's light until late I can now risk the trip up north I really wanted to make in her tomorrow.
I still need to get to the bottom of the lights issue eventually. My tinkering seems to have resulted in the sidelights packing up too... perhaps it's a bit late to remove the pod, but I have noticed a loose wire sitting beside the dipped beam relay which goes up into the pod. It's one of a sheathed pair, the other of which is connected to one of the terminals of the sidelights relay.
Oh well. Something for the weekend perhaps, at least I can get out now and enjoy the security of full closure (and the return of my pressures and temperatures coupled with the loss of the annoying squeal of "Door Open!"
I felt a bit daunted there for a while... thanks for the replies folks, they helped keep my resolve to press on and sort this myself!
Given that it's light until late I can now risk the trip up north I really wanted to make in her tomorrow.
I still need to get to the bottom of the lights issue eventually. My tinkering seems to have resulted in the sidelights packing up too... perhaps it's a bit late to remove the pod, but I have noticed a loose wire sitting beside the dipped beam relay which goes up into the pod. It's one of a sheathed pair, the other of which is connected to one of the terminals of the sidelights relay.
Oh well. Something for the weekend perhaps, at least I can get out now and enjoy the security of full closure (and the return of my pressures and temperatures coupled with the loss of the annoying squeal of "Door Open!"
I felt a bit daunted there for a while... thanks for the replies folks, they helped keep my resolve to press on and sort this myself!
Took the pod off today to help diagnose my issue with side and dipped beams not working.
The rotary switch for the headlight is working fine, and the fog light is able to be switched on when it's turned on. However while the orange LED glow around the fog light works, for the rotary knob it doesn't. The dipped beams work when the main beam is on, and the relay for it is happily clicking away on the fuse panel when it is switched.
The fact that the headlight switch works and the head/foglight PCB seems to be working has led me to such I suspect a relay on one of the stack of PCBs in the pod is the problem. The fog and hazard lights both cause relays to click on the furthest back PCB, but the headlight switch does not at either sidelight or dipped beam states.
How easy are the in-pod PCBs to get a hold of?
I can't see any stockists on the internet, so I'm starting to think that this will end up having to go to a specialist...
The rotary switch for the headlight is working fine, and the fog light is able to be switched on when it's turned on. However while the orange LED glow around the fog light works, for the rotary knob it doesn't. The dipped beams work when the main beam is on, and the relay for it is happily clicking away on the fuse panel when it is switched.
The fact that the headlight switch works and the head/foglight PCB seems to be working has led me to such I suspect a relay on one of the stack of PCBs in the pod is the problem. The fog and hazard lights both cause relays to click on the furthest back PCB, but the headlight switch does not at either sidelight or dipped beam states.
How easy are the in-pod PCBs to get a hold of?
I can't see any stockists on the internet, so I'm starting to think that this will end up having to go to a specialist...
Well after a couple of days spent removing and replacing the two identical relays on the lights PCB I finally have my dipped beams back. Sadly the sidelights and green glow LEDs around the switch still refuse to play ball. Maybe I need to brush up on my soldering.
Not sure if I'd count that as a success, but at least I can drive at night again. Unfinished business though...
Not sure if I'd count that as a success, but at least I can drive at night again. Unfinished business though...
Yeah, sure. The items in question are these:
The large number in blue on the piece is the part number, and once again e-bay comes to the rescue with quite a few suppliers of an equivalent part by TYCO. Just type in the reference number
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-TYCO-V23084-C2001-A30...
I ordered mine from this guy in the UK. A pair cost me £16 inc delivery.
The old ones were a bugger to get out, I had to prise them up and cut the pins before the desoldering and refitment of the new ones.
The one that made the difference for my headlamps was the one on the right in the picture. But if you read the datasheet on the relay they have a pair of switches in each box, and jusdging by the tracks on the PCB there is some level of interaction between the relays...
I'm convinced my soldering was a bit rusty which is why I still don't have the LED glow around the switch or sidelights. Will have a try at resoldering the one on the left again tonight in case of a bad contact.
I'm counting this as a victory and allowing myself to feel a bit chuffed for getting my car serviceable again without resorting to professional help!
The large number in blue on the piece is the part number, and once again e-bay comes to the rescue with quite a few suppliers of an equivalent part by TYCO. Just type in the reference number
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-TYCO-V23084-C2001-A30...
I ordered mine from this guy in the UK. A pair cost me £16 inc delivery.
The old ones were a bugger to get out, I had to prise them up and cut the pins before the desoldering and refitment of the new ones.
The one that made the difference for my headlamps was the one on the right in the picture. But if you read the datasheet on the relay they have a pair of switches in each box, and jusdging by the tracks on the PCB there is some level of interaction between the relays...
I'm convinced my soldering was a bit rusty which is why I still don't have the LED glow around the switch or sidelights. Will have a try at resoldering the one on the left again tonight in case of a bad contact.
I'm counting this as a victory and allowing myself to feel a bit chuffed for getting my car serviceable again without resorting to professional help!
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