Discussion
some info on my LED's
replaces the small wedge base bulb
Size 20mm Length x 5mm Wide
12v 20ma
Low Power consumption
Up to 100,000 Hours Life
Designed for 12v-14.v and in surge protection up to 18volts.
High Quality Japanese Leds will not 'burn down' to 1/2 brightness after several hundred hours (unlike the cheap Chinese Leds)
Fully guaranteed for one Year
replaces the small wedge base bulb
Size 20mm Length x 5mm Wide
12v 20ma
Low Power consumption
Up to 100,000 Hours Life
Designed for 12v-14.v and in surge protection up to 18volts.
High Quality Japanese Leds will not 'burn down' to 1/2 brightness after several hundred hours (unlike the cheap Chinese Leds)
Fully guaranteed for one Year
- Update*
First remove the dash:
Removal of instruments:
Umm, as usual variation on bulb connections, typical TVR:
Bayonet and wedge connections:
We have light: I opted out for the high intensity thinking they were going to be too bright:
Put back together again, here’s the result: camera settings make is 'bluer than normal'
From front:
I’ve left a 'normal bulb' in so you have reference to the old style.
overall i'm happy as it's very subtle (dispite photo's)
Dean
Edited by dean_ratpac on Wednesday 10th September 12:04
i did buy 2 packs of LED's - but i need to get some bayonet LED's (speedo, fuel, clock) to finish off. currently have the LED's with wedge fitting in bayonet fitting if that makes any sense.
i have 3 led's left over (2 for the rev counter - 1 for oil pressure/ water temp). soon as i have the bayonet fittings i can send someone the complete pack.
if you compare the fuel guage light (which is still on original) in the photo it is relatively bright, and dim in 'real life' thus the blue has been over compensated by my digital cameras night mode.
i also might try the brighter versions to see variations.
>> Edited by dean_ratpac on Sunday 29th January 22:19
i have 3 led's left over (2 for the rev counter - 1 for oil pressure/ water temp). soon as i have the bayonet fittings i can send someone the complete pack.
if you compare the fuel guage light (which is still on original) in the photo it is relatively bright, and dim in 'real life' thus the blue has been over compensated by my digital cameras night mode.
i also might try the brighter versions to see variations.
>> Edited by dean_ratpac on Sunday 29th January 22:19
sorry will post all details when i get home tonight. i over ordered on some and not enough on others. for the life of me now i cannot remember - i have it all written down at home. the new LED's (brighter) haven't turned up yet.
>> Edited by dean_ratpac on Thursday 2nd February 10:27
>> Edited by dean_ratpac on Thursday 2nd February 10:27
If you are going to use loose LEDs you need to choose a resistor which matches its power consumption.
E.G for a 12v 2.2watt LED the following formula is used
voltage squared divided by resistance(ohms)= power(watts)
therefore voltage squared(144)divided by power(2.2 watts)=resistance req'd
=(12*12)/2.2=65.45 ohms
A slightly higher resistance will attain a duller LED brightness
Also you need to connect the correct leg to the +12volts i think its the longest one
is into the positive,you can check by connecting across a 12volt supply(car battery + terminal to fuel rail,good earth to check correct connection and brightness req'd)
I'll test out at work tomorrow and post results
At last 7 years at college as come in handy.
E.G for a 12v 2.2watt LED the following formula is used
voltage squared divided by resistance(ohms)= power(watts)
therefore voltage squared(144)divided by power(2.2 watts)=resistance req'd
=(12*12)/2.2=65.45 ohms
A slightly higher resistance will attain a duller LED brightness
Also you need to connect the correct leg to the +12volts i think its the longest one
is into the positive,you can check by connecting across a 12volt supply(car battery + terminal to fuel rail,good earth to check correct connection and brightness req'd)
I'll test out at work tomorrow and post results
At last 7 years at college as come in handy.
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