Spare 4.2 engine?
Discussion
hi
I've spare 4.2 ajp for sale, alas its broken down into bits but it's all there.
I removed it from my Cerbera about 6 years ago at old Raceproved to make way for a upgraded engine. It has only done 23,000 miles but I think the rings are worn as it did use some oil and needed topping up between services and it's ready for a new set of cams as one of the lobes was showing signs of wear.
Apart from that it was a good engine making 370 bhp on Joolz rollers.
Pm me if your interested, I don't want much money for it as its all in boxes, and I no longer have any interest in developing / modifying the ajp any more
I've spare 4.2 ajp for sale, alas its broken down into bits but it's all there.
I removed it from my Cerbera about 6 years ago at old Raceproved to make way for a upgraded engine. It has only done 23,000 miles but I think the rings are worn as it did use some oil and needed topping up between services and it's ready for a new set of cams as one of the lobes was showing signs of wear.
Apart from that it was a good engine making 370 bhp on Joolz rollers.
Pm me if your interested, I don't want much money for it as its all in boxes, and I no longer have any interest in developing / modifying the ajp any more
Byker28i said:
Anyone got a spare engine?
Mines an early engine, so on stripping has been found to have the old style chrome valves with bronze guides, wear to the camshafts etc.
Bottom end has the small main bearing cast crankshaft, which even though it's not snapped, noone is keen to rebuild with it.
Cost to repair/replace everything is extortionate, so I was wondering if anyone had a spare engine. It'll probably still need stripping and examining but I'm wondering if this is a cheaper route. Otherwise I'm looking at selling the car to pay for the engine rebuild
Or does anyone want a project for a LS3? Full body off Chassis restoration 4 years ago, paint job 6 months ago, every mechanical replaced.
Arse
Really sorry to hear that. Can you tell me what the engine number is? Just wondering whether it’s earlier or later than mine... (which is 733P4200620). I.e engine number 620. Mines an early engine, so on stripping has been found to have the old style chrome valves with bronze guides, wear to the camshafts etc.
Bottom end has the small main bearing cast crankshaft, which even though it's not snapped, noone is keen to rebuild with it.
Cost to repair/replace everything is extortionate, so I was wondering if anyone had a spare engine. It'll probably still need stripping and examining but I'm wondering if this is a cheaper route. Otherwise I'm looking at selling the car to pay for the engine rebuild
Or does anyone want a project for a LS3? Full body off Chassis restoration 4 years ago, paint job 6 months ago, every mechanical replaced.
Arse
Byker28i said:
Earlier, 474. My car was sold May 1997.
I think I have every bill ever spent on it, even the original bill of sale.
Great - thanks. My car’s original engine was 413, but it went pop 7 or 8 years ago and the then owner replaced it with the one it has now. Hopefully 620 was after they made the changes. Unless anyone knows for sure? I think I have every bill ever spent on it, even the original bill of sale.
Hope you get it sorted - sounds like you have a great car bar the engine.
Jason at Str8six said he rebuilt one small crank engine with 250K miles on it.
Mines actually fine, and could be rebuilt, it's just that no one will warranty the engine. The newer crank is about 2.5K of the cost so that is a saving but probably a false one, especially if I sell the car.
Mines actually fine, and could be rebuilt, it's just that no one will warranty the engine. The newer crank is about 2.5K of the cost so that is a saving but probably a false one, especially if I sell the car.
Byker28i said:
Jhonno said:
tangerinedream said:
So at what engine number did they change from small crank to larger crank?
No one knows as far as I am aware..Adambul said:
What engine number is your engine? Did the crank snapping total the bottom end? Thanks
I don't have any paperwork anyone since I've sold the car. The car was registered in March 1997.Whole engine was crap. Blew a big hole in the side of the block, took out the pumps on the side with it.
Edit: Whole engine was scrap, as well as crap at the time.
For reference, my engine lost compression on a couple of cylinders too, (total rebuild or...) which is when I decided to go LS3 back in 2008.
(edited to add - mileage was about 32,000 at the time)
The AJP engine was number 4200398 (398) and the car was registered on 21st March 1997.
Maybe we can build a history of AJP engines.
I feel your pain Byker28i and empathise with the crossroads at which you find yourself. Do what you can to keep your car. It's emotional.
(edited to add - mileage was about 32,000 at the time)
The AJP engine was number 4200398 (398) and the car was registered on 21st March 1997.
Maybe we can build a history of AJP engines.
I feel your pain Byker28i and empathise with the crossroads at which you find yourself. Do what you can to keep your car. It's emotional.
Edited by ajp70 on Tuesday 23 January 18:58
Edited by ajp70 on Tuesday 23 January 19:00
Keep reading this thread and thinking...this will be me at some point.
Granted, there are concerns over early cranks, but from my perspective on mine I will deal with any issues as they arise. LS power sounds like a nice alternative, but the AJP was a big reason I bought mine. So you were down on compression - no mention of rings/cylinders on the assessment, so standard head work for valves and guides, that many have mentioned can be done at any reputable engine engineering shop.
If /when it becomes a similar issue for me, I would min. clean up crank, new shells and head work (guides valves shims and cams if necessary). Stick it all back together and enjoy it - and also put £200 away a month in a separate bank account in prep for the next round!
Granted, there are concerns over early cranks, but from my perspective on mine I will deal with any issues as they arise. LS power sounds like a nice alternative, but the AJP was a big reason I bought mine. So you were down on compression - no mention of rings/cylinders on the assessment, so standard head work for valves and guides, that many have mentioned can be done at any reputable engine engineering shop.
If /when it becomes a similar issue for me, I would min. clean up crank, new shells and head work (guides valves shims and cams if necessary). Stick it all back together and enjoy it - and also put £200 away a month in a separate bank account in prep for the next round!
totalpetrolhead said:
Keep reading this thread and thinking...this will be me at some point.
Granted, there are concerns over early cranks, but from my perspective on mine I will deal with any issues as they arise. LS power sounds like a nice alternative, but the AJP was a big reason I bought mine. So you were down on compression - no mention of rings/cylinders on the assessment, so standard head work for valves and guides, that many have mentioned can be done at any reputable engine engineering shop.
If /when it becomes a similar issue for me, I would min. clean up crank, new shells and head work (guides valves shims and cams if necessary). Stick it all back together and enjoy it - and also put £200 away a month in a separate bank account in prep for the next round!
This would be my stance. A complete professional rebuild by a TVR dealer with a warranty would buy piece of mind and also add value, but I'm not convinced by the amount of value added in comparison the cost outlay. Unless i could be certain of recovering the extra cost through increase in value then i'd look for a more economical solution. My car has done 48,000 miles and apart from a set of new cams and followers has not had any engine work. I would consider a re-fresh from a competent engine builder and only consider the larger crank if i actually had no other option. Its a risk but until the values increase to justify the extra outlay I'd take that risk.Granted, there are concerns over early cranks, but from my perspective on mine I will deal with any issues as they arise. LS power sounds like a nice alternative, but the AJP was a big reason I bought mine. So you were down on compression - no mention of rings/cylinders on the assessment, so standard head work for valves and guides, that many have mentioned can be done at any reputable engine engineering shop.
If /when it becomes a similar issue for me, I would min. clean up crank, new shells and head work (guides valves shims and cams if necessary). Stick it all back together and enjoy it - and also put £200 away a month in a separate bank account in prep for the next round!
I went to look at my engine in bits.
Camshafts are worn, so they need replacing. Valve seats need doing as do the guides. One was very loose and falling out the head. Head gaskets had rotted away, hence the issue removing the heads.
I was hoping for a simple head repair.
Yet the engine was pulling really well! Just goes to show I was right to get it out at the first sign of an issue.
I've not scrimped on this car at any point of ownership, always going above and beyond as I figured it was more cost effective todo everything possible when it was apart.
In the case of the engine, I think this is the correct way to go. A fully rebuilt original engine, keeps the engine number with the car, piece of mind and warranty
Camshafts are worn, so they need replacing. Valve seats need doing as do the guides. One was very loose and falling out the head. Head gaskets had rotted away, hence the issue removing the heads.
I was hoping for a simple head repair.
Yet the engine was pulling really well! Just goes to show I was right to get it out at the first sign of an issue.
I've not scrimped on this car at any point of ownership, always going above and beyond as I figured it was more cost effective todo everything possible when it was apart.
In the case of the engine, I think this is the correct way to go. A fully rebuilt original engine, keeps the engine number with the car, piece of mind and warranty
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