R8 discussion

Author
Discussion

nickrex

258 posts

174 months

Thursday 7th May 2020
quotequote all
Trev450 said:
It runs along the L/H side of the engine bay and connects the oil tank with the sump pan. You can see it in this picture of mine before it was replaced.


Thanks Trev thumbup

ricky.rep

20 posts

78 months

Sunday 10th May 2020
quotequote all
The main thing when buying one of these is service history! As with all cars.

Good specialists in the book are as valuable as Audi centres now.

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances.

Not seen any reliable replacements yet in regards to ball joint replacement.

Clutches are expensive to do but we see stiff pedals being a bigger sign than clutch slip. I have cars running 1000bhp on these clutches and they take it.

Front frame cracks, I have only ever seen 4 with cracked frames. 3 whilst I was an engineer on this platform at HQ and all had been involved in front end impacts. The fourth was since I started REPerformance on a CAT D car.......of course check but don’t let it worry your mind. If it is in good condition we retrofit the frame supports from the later cars anyway for piece of mind should you wish.

The V8 R-Tronic is not as good the V10 and in all honesty manual supercars don’t exist anymore so get a gated box!

Never seen an AC compressor fail in the UK after 14 years on this platform and having worked on literally 1000’s of R8’s of its own accord.......AC problems are either pressure switch or condenser related (they take a beating).

Carbon clean on a V8 will be essential.

If well looked after they are bullet proof......just don’t let the niggles build up!

We are based in Swindon if you find one and want me to check it over, it’s certainly a buyers market!

Cheers Ricky


nickrex

258 posts

174 months

Sunday 10th May 2020
quotequote all
ricky.rep said:
The main thing when buying one of these is service history! As with all cars.

Good specialists in the book are as valuable as Audi centres now.

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances.

Not seen any reliable replacements yet in regards to ball joint replacement.

Clutches are expensive to do but we see stiff pedals being a bigger sign than clutch slip. I have cars running 1000bhp on these clutches and they take it.

Front frame cracks, I have only ever seen 4 with cracked frames. 3 whilst I was an engineer on this platform at HQ and all had been involved in front end impacts. The fourth was since I started REPerformance on a CAT D car.......of course check but don’t let it worry your mind. If it is in good condition we retrofit the frame supports from the later cars anyway for piece of mind should you wish.

The V8 R-Tronic is not as good the V10 and in all honesty manual supercars don’t exist anymore so get a gated box!

Never seen an AC compressor fail in the UK after 14 years on this platform and having worked on literally 1000’s of R8’s of its own accord.......AC problems are either pressure switch or condenser related (they take a beating).

Carbon clean on a V8 will be essential.

If well looked after they are bullet proof......just don’t let the niggles build up!

We are based in Swindon if you find one and want me to check it over, it’s certainly a buyers market!

Cheers Ricky
Thanks Ricky, I had already bookmarked you're website for future reference! thumbup

Really handy to have you share your knowledge, its interesting to hear your views on the refurbed magride. A lot of the internet reliability stories may have be overblown....

If any your clients are thinking of selling or If you know of any other nice v10s for sale let me know!? thumbup

200Plus Club

10,815 posts

279 months

Sunday 10th May 2020
quotequote all
A V10 manual is an absolute performance bargain right now given the pricing and cars around.

likesachange

2,631 posts

195 months

Sunday 10th May 2020
quotequote all
ricky.rep said:
The main thing when buying one of these is service history! As with all cars.

Good specialists in the book are as valuable as Audi centres now.

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances.

Not seen any reliable replacements yet in regards to ball joint replacement.

Clutches are expensive to do but we see stiff pedals being a bigger sign than clutch slip. I have cars running 1000bhp on these clutches and they take it.

Front frame cracks, I have only ever seen 4 with cracked frames. 3 whilst I was an engineer on this platform at HQ and all had been involved in front end impacts. The fourth was since I started REPerformance on a CAT D car.......of course check but don’t let it worry your mind. If it is in good condition we retrofit the frame supports from the later cars anyway for piece of mind should you wish.

The V8 R-Tronic is not as good the V10 and in all honesty manual supercars don’t exist anymore so get a gated box!

Never seen an AC compressor fail in the UK after 14 years on this platform and having worked on literally 1000’s of R8’s of its own accord.......AC problems are either pressure switch or condenser related (they take a beating).

Carbon clean on a V8 will be essential.

If well looked after they are bullet proof......just don’t let the niggles build up!

We are based in Swindon if you find one and want me to check it over, it’s certainly a buyers market!

Cheers Ricky
Great post. Thanks for this as a V10 is on my list of must owns....

therealsamdailly

Original Poster:

328 posts

64 months

Monday 11th May 2020
quotequote all
ricky.rep said:
Many useful things

Cheers Ricky
Thanks, valuable post

andy97

4,704 posts

223 months

Monday 11th May 2020
quotequote all
ricky.rep said:
......

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances......

Cheers Ricky
Thanks Ricky.
Out of interest (and please excuse the numpty questions) but what is a “BC Coil”.

How much are the Plus passive shocks?

And, what is the cross over date between “early” and “late” R8s for when the rear suspension ball joint taper is no longer a “complete rear suspension” purchase?!

Many thanks

Trev450

6,329 posts

173 months

Monday 11th May 2020
quotequote all
andy97 said:
ricky.rep said:
......

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances......

Cheers Ricky
Thanks Ricky.
Out of interest (and please excuse the numpty questions) but what is a “BC Coil”.

How much are the Plus passive shocks?

And, what is the cross over date between “early” and “late” R8s for when the rear suspension ball joint taper is no longer a “complete rear suspension” purchase?!

Many thanks
Answering on Ricky's behalf -

BC coils are cheap Taiwanese coilovers.

Plus passive dampers are around £350-400 each and you also require a KW module delete kit to prevent error messages at around £500.

Can't help with the ball joint question, sorry.

Shawnl

25 posts

48 months

Monday 11th May 2020
quotequote all
ricky.rep said:
The main thing when buying one of these is service history! As with all cars.

Good specialists in the book are as valuable as Audi centres now.

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances.

Not seen any reliable replacements yet in regards to ball joint replacement.

Clutches are expensive to do but we see stiff pedals being a bigger sign than clutch slip. I have cars running 1000bhp on these clutches and they take it.

Front frame cracks, I have only ever seen 4 with cracked frames. 3 whilst I was an engineer on this platform at HQ and all had been involved in front end impacts. The fourth was since I started REPerformance on a CAT D car.......of course check but don’t let it worry your mind. If it is in good condition we retrofit the frame supports from the later cars anyway for piece of mind should you wish.

The V8 R-Tronic is not as good the V10 and in all honesty manual supercars don’t exist anymore so get a gated box!

Never seen an AC compressor fail in the UK after 14 years on this platform and having worked on literally 1000’s of R8’s of its own accord.......AC problems are either pressure switch or condenser related (they take a beating).

Carbon clean on a V8 will be essential.

If well looked after they are bullet proof......just don’t let the niggles build up!

We are based in Swindon if you find one and want me to check it over, it’s certainly a buyers market!

Cheers Ricky
The V8 R8 is on my list at the moment so thank you for the informative post.

Raven Flyer

1,642 posts

225 months

Tuesday 12th May 2020
quotequote all
ricky.rep said:
The main thing when buying one of these is service history! As with all cars.

Good specialists in the book are as valuable as Audi centres now.

Mag ride suspension does fail, get the car and check it over - any signs of weeping and the suspension will be past it.

We convert most over to Plus passive shocks now, the refurb ones have been nothing but trouble for our clients and seeing as they have to cut the damper leg in half to open them I don’t trust them.

Don’t use BC coils, had 3 completely snap the top joint off!

Early V8’s have a different diameter ball joint taper on the rear, if one £300 arm goes then you will be buying the complete rear suspension (hubs and top/bottom arms). Later ones don’t have this concern. Includes V10 and V8 in both instances.

Not seen any reliable replacements yet in regards to ball joint replacement.

Clutches are expensive to do but we see stiff pedals being a bigger sign than clutch slip. I have cars running 1000bhp on these clutches and they take it.

Front frame cracks, I have only ever seen 4 with cracked frames. 3 whilst I was an engineer on this platform at HQ and all had been involved in front end impacts. The fourth was since I started REPerformance on a CAT D car.......of course check but don’t let it worry your mind. If it is in good condition we retrofit the frame supports from the later cars anyway for piece of mind should you wish.

The V8 R-Tronic is not as good the V10 and in all honesty manual supercars don’t exist anymore so get a gated box!

Never seen an AC compressor fail in the UK after 14 years on this platform and having worked on literally 1000’s of R8’s of its own accord.......AC problems are either pressure switch or condenser related (they take a beating).

Carbon clean on a V8 will be essential.

If well looked after they are bullet proof......just don’t let the niggles build up!

We are based in Swindon if you find one and want me to check it over, it’s certainly a buyers market!

Cheers Ricky
Ricky - Why do the V8s suffer from carbon build up more than the V10s?


I've had a V10 Spyder since November. I couldn't have lived with an R Tronic and there is no way my missus could have driven an R Tronic in traffic. The howl from a V10 is something you will never tire of!


nickrex

258 posts

174 months

Tuesday 12th May 2020
quotequote all
Raven Flyer said:
Ricky - Why do the V8s suffer from carbon build up more than the V10s?


I've had a V10 Spyder since November. I couldn't have lived with an R Tronic and there is no way my missus could have driven an R Tronic in traffic. The howl from a V10 is something you will never tire of!
Any more tips or advice gir a potential? thumbup

Raven Flyer

1,642 posts

225 months

Tuesday 12th May 2020
quotequote all
nickrex said:
Raven Flyer said:
Ricky - Why do the V8s suffer from carbon build up more than the V10s?


I've had a V10 Spyder since November. I couldn't have lived with an R Tronic and there is no way my missus could have driven an R Tronic in traffic. The howl from a V10 is something you will never tire of!
Any more tips or advice gir a potential? thumbup
It's all in this thread. There isn't any more too it.

Awesome cars, you will love it.


davejones

110 posts

235 months

Wednesday 13th May 2020
quotequote all
I echo the comments made thus far, these are cracking cars with very benign handling (by which I mean they don't bite!) and in v10 guise brilliant sounding junior supercars - although I'm sure someone will be along shortly to dispute that!! They are great value right now and a well looked after one is a great buy, although to keep them in top condition you need to be prepared to spend a few quid - remember they were £100k+ when new....but not as hefty to run as other exotic brands. I have a 2010 v10 manual Spyder, which I bought a couple of years back and absolutely love it, just wish I could use it more - everyday life usually entails lugging dogs and suchlike around which don't fit well into an R8 Spyder, thus far mine has been a pain free purchase.

Pvapour

8,981 posts

254 months

Wednesday 13th May 2020
quotequote all
Ive read the whole thread and theres some great info, very encouraging, so much so its made my mind up..

When i bought my Maserati GTS it was a toss up between it and the R8 V8 (couldnt push to the V10) the Maserati won as in i think it sounds and looks better but now i’m in a different position and can afford a nice example of the V10 and ive missed having a spyder.

I was going to get the AMG GTR roadster after testing one before lockdown but if i get the R8 v10 spyder I will get to scratch the V10 itch, ive always loved the R8 right from way back when it was the le mans concept and that engine is probably the pinacle of ice engineering that we’ll never see again, sound is incredible.

So thanks to you guys and this thread i’m off to get one thumbup its made my mind up

One question re the magnaride, comfort and its select-ability is really important to me, does the later magnaride perform better as well as be more reliable?

If anyone is selling a light ext with light interior spyder with lowish mileage and good history then please pm me


Trev450

6,329 posts

173 months

Thursday 14th May 2020
quotequote all
Pvapour said:
One question re the magnaride, comfort and its select-ability is really important to me, does the later magnaride perform better as well as be more reliable?
There is no difference between the early and later mag ride systems. They are great when they aren't leaking but can be relied upon to start at some point.

paddy1970

709 posts

110 months

Thursday 14th May 2020
quotequote all
Pvapour said:
Ive read the whole thread and theres some great info, very encouraging, so much so its made my mind up..

When i bought my Maserati GTS it was a toss up between it and the R8 V8 (couldnt push to the V10) the Maserati won as in i think it sounds and looks better but now i’m in a different position and can afford a nice example of the V10 and ive missed having a spyder.

I was going to get the AMG GTR roadster after testing one before lockdown but if i get the R8 v10 spyder I will get to scratch the V10 itch, ive always loved the R8 right from way back when it was the le mans concept and that engine is probably the pinacle of ice engineering that we’ll never see again, sound is incredible.

So thanks to you guys and this thread i’m off to get one thumbup its made my mind up

One question re the magnaride, comfort and its select-ability is really important to me, does the later magnaride perform better as well as be more reliable?

If anyone is selling a light ext with light interior spyder with lowish mileage and good history then please pm me
I have been the owner of a Maserati GT (without skyhook), an R8 V10 (with magride) and an R8 V10 plus (without magride).

The ride is very compliant on the R8 with magride (switched off!) and although it does not offer the level of "softness" of the Maserati, it is very good for a sportcar/supercar. If you engage it (switch it "on"), it becomes too hard for road use unless the road is very smooth. The front magrides on my car failed within 10,000 miles which is a pain!

I now have the V10 plus. It has the fixed set up and I am OK with it. It offers the middle ground between the harshness of the magride when switched on and the softness when off. You feel that you are in a sportcar/supercar but it does not shake your teeth out (showing my age here!).

The magride on the second gen (2016MY onward) seems to be more reliable.

Pvapour

8,981 posts

254 months

Saturday 16th May 2020
quotequote all
paddy1970 said:
Pvapour said:
Ive read the whole thread and theres some great info, very encouraging, so much so its made my mind up..

When i bought my Maserati GTS it was a toss up between it and the R8 V8 (couldnt push to the V10) the Maserati won as in i think it sounds and looks better but now i’m in a different position and can afford a nice example of the V10 and ive missed having a spyder.

I was going to get the AMG GTR roadster after testing one before lockdown but if i get the R8 v10 spyder I will get to scratch the V10 itch, ive always loved the R8 right from way back when it was the le mans concept and that engine is probably the pinacle of ice engineering that we’ll never see again, sound is incredible.

So thanks to you guys and this thread i’m off to get one thumbup its made my mind up

One question re the magnaride, comfort and its select-ability is really important to me, does the later magnaride perform better as well as be more reliable?

If anyone is selling a light ext with light interior spyder with lowish mileage and good history then please pm me
I have been the owner of a Maserati GT (without skyhook), an R8 V10 (with magride) and an R8 V10 plus (without magride).

The ride is very compliant on the R8 with magride (switched off!) and although it does not offer the level of "softness" of the Maserati, it is very good for a sportcar/supercar. If you engage it (switch it "on"), it becomes too hard for road use unless the road is very smooth. The front magrides on my car failed within 10,000 miles which is a pain!

I now have the V10 plus. It has the fixed set up and I am OK with it. It offers the middle ground between the harshness of the magride when switched on and the softness when off. You feel that you are in a sportcar/supercar but it does not shake your teeth out (showing my age here!).

The magride on the second gen (2016MY onward) seems to be more reliable.
Thank you, a very valuable comparison, comfort is quite important in my choice (buying a track car for more hardcore)

Can I take it from that you’re saying the Maserati was more compliant over the rough stuff and probably the better tourer? Mine has skyhook so a bit better than std on the GT

Obviously I’ll test but it’d be nice to have the insight before.. My other option is to go back to the Amg GTC which I found acceptable but not brilliant when I tested.

Edited by Pvapour on Saturday 16th May 10:56

MrVert

4,399 posts

240 months

Saturday 16th May 2020
quotequote all
I keep looking at R8’s and this one caught my eye...

https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...

Is it missing anything? Apart from bucket seats? I’d probably swap the standard seats out for some Recaro items assuming they fit?

Edited by MrVert on Saturday 16th May 09:33

200Plus Club

10,815 posts

279 months

Saturday 16th May 2020
quotequote all
MrVert said:
I keep looking at R8’s and this one caught my eye...

https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...

Is it missing anything? Apart from bucket seats? I’d probably swap the standard seats out for some Recaro items assuming they fit?

Edited by MrVert on Saturday 16th May 09:33
Seats come up occasionally but the std seats are ace. That's not cheap for a V8 2008 if you can stretch a bit a V10 maybe in reach?

200Plus Club

10,815 posts

279 months