What Engine for 500BHP
Discussion
GreenV8S said:
I thought it was generally best with WI to pulse at higher pressure rather than stay on continuously at lower pressure, so you get better atomisation. If the solenoid was restricting the flow, have you checked whether you are getting the duty cycle up to 100%?
The solenoid was not restricting the flow more than a few CC, but the range of possible flow was less. with the pump at full speed and controlling only the solenoid i measured 390 to 450cc/min and with the solenoid full open and controlling the pump gave 280 to 450cc range.the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
turbonutter said:
The solenoid was not restricting the flow more than a few CC, but the range of possible flow was less. with the pump at full speed and controlling only the solenoid i measured 390 to 450cc/min and with the solenoid full open and controlling the pump gave 280 to 450cc range.
the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
Are you saying the problem is the solenoid wasn't capable reducing the flow as low as you wanted? That suggests either the PWM frequency was wrong, or the controller wasn't generating the full range of duty cycles 0 - 100%. I guess it's academic anyway.the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
turbonutter said:
The solenoid was not restricting the flow more than a few CC, but the range of possible flow was less. with the pump at full speed and controlling only the solenoid i measured 390 to 450cc/min and with the solenoid full open and controlling the pump gave 280 to 450cc range.
the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
nozzle pressure minus boost pressure...the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
Running the pump at full duty and controlling flow via the valve would be the best option. Or at those flow levels, you could rig up a fixing with a normal fuel injector which would give good spray and a very wide range of control
But for the standalone stuff, PWM'ing the pump with a simple controller is just easy, even if it isnt ideal
GreenV8S said:
turbonutter said:
The solenoid was not restricting the flow more than a few CC, but the range of possible flow was less. with the pump at full speed and controlling only the solenoid i measured 390 to 450cc/min and with the solenoid full open and controlling the pump gave 280 to 450cc range.
the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
Are you saying the problem is the solenoid wasn't capable reducing the flow as low as you wanted? That suggests either the PWM frequency was wrong, or the controller wasn't generating the full range of duty cycles 0 - 100%. I guess it's academic anyway.the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
stevieturbo said:
turbonutter said:
The solenoid was not restricting the flow more than a few CC, but the range of possible flow was less. with the pump at full speed and controlling only the solenoid i measured 390 to 450cc/min and with the solenoid full open and controlling the pump gave 280 to 450cc range.
the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
nozzle pressure minus boost pressure...the 280cc is with 30% duty on the pump which netted 65psi before the nozzle. Minimum for good spray 60psi as per the makers, but it tested ok down to 50psi.
Running the pump at full duty and controlling flow via the valve would be the best option. Or at those flow levels, you could rig up a fixing with a normal fuel injector which would give good spray and a very wide range of control
But for the standalone stuff, PWM'ing the pump with a simple controller is just easy, even if it isnt ideal
I agree using the valve to control the flow is best, but I couldnt make it work & yes PWM'ing the pump is easy to get the control.
Steve, i pressurise the water reservoir with boost as well so the differential remains the same .
Max , using the throttle for boost control ,would that not build a lot of heat and bp in the turbine side .
TN, popping a .6mm welding tip in the boost feed pipe prior to the controller may change your range a touch.
Regards
robert.
Max , using the throttle for boost control ,would that not build a lot of heat and bp in the turbine side .
TN, popping a .6mm welding tip in the boost feed pipe prior to the controller may change your range a touch.
Regards
robert.
Sadly I resurrect this great thread with the bad news that the OP passed away last year. Of what I do not not know, but he is missed and I was just pondering about him the other day. There are some recent reader posts on his thread in 'Readers cars' at the moment and it seems his creation has gone to Spain.
He was a true petrolhead and had a lot of patience.
RIP Neil.
He was a true petrolhead and had a lot of patience.
RIP Neil.
stevieturbo said:
That's a hell of a shock, and it was a cracking car he was building.
Yes it's very sad, he always came across as a decent type and a shame it was never fully finished.AET are still melting peoples engines though, I had to completely rebuild one a few months back. We took it to RS for mapping and they found the ECU wasn't even wired to the water temp sensor, map was locked and they wouldn't let them have the code so it had to be started again from scratch.
Evoluzione said:
Yes it's very sad, he always came across as a decent type and a shame it was never fully finished.
AET are still melting peoples engines though, I had to completely rebuild one a few months back. We took it to RS for mapping and they found the ECU wasn't even wired to the water temp sensor, map was locked and they wouldn't let them have the code so it had to be started again from scratch.
IMO, contact the ecu manufacturer to alert them of the dangers.AET are still melting peoples engines though, I had to completely rebuild one a few months back. We took it to RS for mapping and they found the ECU wasn't even wired to the water temp sensor, map was locked and they wouldn't let them have the code so it had to be started again from scratch.
I did contact them about the Haltech incompetence, although doubt they did anything, but I felt it only right to warn the manufacturer that their dealers are blowing up peoples engines through utter incompetence. In this case they didnt even have fuel/spark tables below atmospheric !!!
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