Timing belt/camshaft issue

Timing belt/camshaft issue

Author
Discussion

Evoluzione

10,345 posts

245 months

Sunday 24th April 2022
quotequote all
No it isn't what these forums are for, read a WSM and follow it. It's what you should have done then and need to do now.
You shouldn't need guiding through what is normal life.
I would never, ever do something so technical and potentially ruinous without seeking advice first, no matter what the weather.

What next, jump into the cockpit of a plane you've never flown and attempt take off?
Maybe we shouldn't be taught to drive, simply get behind the wheel and work it out from there......

InitialDave

11,996 posts

121 months

Sunday 24th April 2022
quotequote all
What kind of tensioner do these have for the cambelt? If you were undoing the crank bolt and turning the crank backwards, with the cam pulley locked, you'd be loading up the "non drive" run of the belt where the tensioner sits, and the noise you heard could have been the tensioner being forcibly backed off as the belt received far more load than it ever would normally on that side.


AW111

9,674 posts

135 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
Evoluzione said:
No it isn't what these forums are for, read a WSM and follow it. It's what you should have done then and need to do now.
You shouldn't need guiding through what is normal life.
I would never, ever do something so technical and potentially ruinous without seeking advice first, no matter what the weather.

What next, jump into the cockpit of a plane you've never flown and attempt take off?
Maybe we shouldn't be taught to drive, simply get behind the wheel and work it out from there......
Yeah, because the OP's car fell from the sky and burst into flames, killing all on board rolleyes

It may not have been the smartest move, but keep a sense of proportion.

Vagabondrobb

Original Poster:

17 posts

26 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
InitialDave said:
What kind of tensioner do these have for the cambelt? If you were undoing the crank bolt and turning the crank backwards, with the cam pulley locked, you'd be loading up the "non drive" run of the belt where the tensioner sits, and the noise you heard could have been the tensioner being forcibly backed off as the belt received far more load than it ever would normally on that side.
Hmmm that’s a good thought! It’s manually torqued up I believe - there’s an alignment tooth on the tensioner. I’m waiting for the flywheel locking tool and an extra long extension for my 3/4 drive breaker to get the crank pulley off (the only way to get a bar on it is out the side of the wheel arch), so I will have a closer look when it all gets here!

stevieturbo

17,309 posts

249 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
Vagabondrobb said:
Hmmm that’s a good thought! It’s manually torqued up I believe - there’s an alignment tooth on the tensioner. I’m waiting for the flywheel locking tool and an extra long extension for my 3/4 drive breaker to get the crank pulley off (the only way to get a bar on it is out the side of the wheel arch), so I will have a closer look when it all gets here!
Surely there are visible markings that you do not need to waste money on locking tools just yet ?

You've said the alignment is out...so there must be markings ? Just correct it for now and rotate by hand and see how it feels.

Vagabondrobb

Original Poster:

17 posts

26 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
Surely there are visible markings that you do not need to waste money on locking tools just yet ?

You've said the alignment is out...so there must be markings ? Just correct it for now and rotate by hand and see how it feels.
I know it sounds simple, but timing belt runs behind the crankshaft pulley, which has to come off for belt to be removed. The reason I got into this mess in the first place was because I didn’t have a tool to lock the crankshaft (via flywheel) so that I could remove pulley bolt, which is torqued extremely tightly, and foolishly locked the camshaft pulley as a substitute, which led to the problem. So I never got the belt off…

Edited by Vagabondrobb on Monday 25th April 21:08

bearman68

4,686 posts

134 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
Vagabondrobb said:
I know it sounds simple, but timing belt runs behind the crankshaft pulley, which has to come off for belt to be removed. The reason I got into this mess in the first place was because I didn’t have a tool to lock the crankshaft (via flywheel) so that I could remove pulley bolt, which is torqued extremely tightly, and foolishly locked the camshaft pulley as a substitute, which led to the problem. So I never got the belt off…

Edited by Vagabondrobb on Monday 25th April 21:08
Remove the starter, and jam a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. That will shift the crank pulley.


Evoluzione

10,345 posts

245 months

Monday 25th April 2022
quotequote all
AW111 said:
Evoluzione said:
No it isn't what these forums are for, read a WSM and follow it. It's what you should have done then and need to do now.
You shouldn't need guiding through what is normal life.
I would never, ever do something so technical and potentially ruinous without seeking advice first, no matter what the weather.

What next, jump into the cockpit of a plane you've never flown and attempt take off?
Maybe we shouldn't be taught to drive, simply get behind the wheel and work it out from there......
Yeah, because the OP's car fell from the sky and burst into flames, killing all on board rolleyes

It may not have been the smartest move, but keep a sense of proportion.
No, he's fked his engine because he didn't read a manual.
He can't cure his engine because he won't read a manual.
Sorry, but that's the long and short of it and you can apply it more or less mundane tasks, but it's still the same answer.

stevieturbo

17,309 posts

249 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
Vagabondrobb said:
I know it sounds simple, but timing belt runs behind the crankshaft pulley, which has to come off for belt to be removed. The reason I got into this mess in the first place was because I didn’t have a tool to lock the crankshaft (via flywheel) so that I could remove pulley bolt, which is torqued extremely tightly, and foolishly locked the camshaft pulley as a substitute, which led to the problem. So I never got the belt off…

Edited by Vagabondrobb on Monday 25th April 21:08
It is simple...and yes obviously the crank pulley needs to come off.

And you don't necessarily need to lock the crank, a decent impact gun will likely undo the bolt.

However in general, if you do not have the tools, the knowledge....but you've gathered that now.

Hopefully it has just slipped a tooth and no harm has been done. But it needs taken apart and alignment checked first and foremost, as well as an experienced person turning the crank over to feel things.

paintman

7,712 posts

192 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
It is simple...and yes obviously the crank pulley needs to come off.

And you don't necessarily need to lock the crank, a decent impact gun will likely undo the bolt.

However in general, if you do not have the tools, the knowledge....but you've gathered that now.

Hopefully it has just slipped a tooth and no harm has been done. But it needs taken apart and alignment checked first and foremost, as well as an experienced person turning the crank over to feel things.
Decent being the operative word!
I hoped the crank pulley bolt on my RRClassic V8 would succumb to that but unfortunately my compressor wasn't up to the job & I ended up locking the starter ring gear against the bellhousing with a piece of angle iron & using a long breaker bar. No option to stick it in gear & have someone stand on the brake pedal as it's an auto.
I did consider going & buying an electric one but couldn't justify the spend - it would see very little use - & I'd wasted enough time as it was.

I understand that some adventurous souls use a breaker bar against a chassis rail - or other fixed item - & give the starter motor a quick flick which sometimes does the job. They've disabled the engine to stop it running!

bearman68

4,686 posts

134 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
paintman said:
I understand that some adventurous souls use a breaker bar against a chassis rail - or other fixed item - & give the starter motor a quick flick which sometimes does the job. They've disabled the engine to stop it running!
I've done this. Works a treat.


stevieturbo

17,309 posts

249 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
Done it too...but not always the preferred option.

Vagabondrobb

Original Poster:

17 posts

26 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
Well the locking tool arrived today and an extension to get at the bolt arriving tomorrow (although Hermes are delivering so God only knows)... I have a fat breaker with a 3/4 drive and half a scaffolding pole so hoping that will do the job!

InitialDave

11,996 posts

121 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
One trick when using an extension for big torque - use a jack or an axle stand to support the end of the extension furthest from the socket, to give it something to pivot on.

It makes it less likely to move about or slip off the fastener, and you can concentrate on the task at hand

Vagabondrobb

Original Poster:

17 posts

26 months

Tuesday 26th April 2022
quotequote all
Thanks, great tip!

Vagabondrobb

Original Poster:

17 posts

26 months

Thursday 28th April 2022
quotequote all
So realligned the timing and got the new belt on, physically cranked a few rotations and all seemed ok, got to starting her up and... no start. Got around to inspect cams and found the first valve lifter I could see on intake was limp and wobbling about.

Not taking it any further and looking for a second hand engine. Lesson learned the hard way

Thanks to all who tried to help, much appreciated.

Robb



Matt_E_Mulsion

1,695 posts

67 months

Thursday 28th April 2022
quotequote all
Vagabondrobb said:
So realligned the timing and got the new belt on, physically cranked a few rotations and all seemed ok, got to starting her up and... no start. Got around to inspect cams and found the first valve lifter I could see on intake was limp and wobbling about.

Not taking it any further and looking for a second hand engine. Lesson learned the hard way
Don't be too downbeat, everyone has made a monumental error somewhere along the way giving something a go that they have decided to have a dabble at.

It may well be feasible to put damage right from the mistiming without having to source a complete replacement engine. Weigh up the options open to you and go from there.

InitialDave

11,996 posts

121 months

Thursday 28th April 2022
quotequote all
You may as well pull the head off and have a look at this point.

stevieturbo

17,309 posts

249 months

Thursday 28th April 2022
quotequote all
InitialDave said:
You may as well pull the head off and have a look at this point.
If one does not have the skillset to change a belt....I think pulling the head off would be a bit of a stretch.

Plus largely pointless unless it's a lot easier to change just the head in-situ, vs an engine.

Debatable either way, some heads can be a clusterfk to get off

Better to find a mechanic who can do it all.

Vagabondrobb

Original Poster:

17 posts

26 months

Friday 29th April 2022
quotequote all
For what it's worth, I've swapped engines, changed clutches and gearboxes and all sorts of exciting things over the past 15 years, and saved a lot of money in doing so. It's also (mostly) fun and I like getting my hands dirty. I may have more or less fked my engine but I've walked away having learned about timing and camshafts, which is evidentially a part of a car I have neglected for too long.

Again thank you to all who have given advice. On a side note though, I've also gotten some contempt on this thread, which is actually totally fine, because it has reminded me why I sacked off social media all those years ago. Cheers!