Discussion
the valves on a cvh are angled,so no need for an airline.Just make sure the piston is at the top of the stroke and will hold the valve from falling.If the engine is as old as it may sound,by the time you have disrupted the head,found out it now becomes warped,have to get it skimmed,timing now out due to headskim,seized bolts,cleaning off old gaskets,the list goes on.I would be inclined just to get the tool and seals and forget taking the head off.The can of worms might start.I would also ask your mechanic mate to assist you since he should be able to do it with his eyes closed.
Justin, how do angled valves affect the procedure?
Can I just take off the cover and stick in a new set of valve seals?
Is there any way to test the guides without removing the head?
As you say, it is an old engine and I'm not convinced that pulling it apart is a very good idea - I'd prefer a quick&dirty approach that doesn't disturb to much.
Al.
Can I just take off the cover and stick in a new set of valve seals?
Is there any way to test the guides without removing the head?
As you say, it is an old engine and I'm not convinced that pulling it apart is a very good idea - I'd prefer a quick&dirty approach that doesn't disturb to much.
Al.
Yes it's an old engine, so as stated previously your problem could be down to wear in valve guides or the bores. If that's the case, leaving the head on and simply changing the valve stem seals won't cure it.
Taking the head off might be more work, but it'll give you chance to see exactly what state your old engine is in. That way, if the bores and guides are OK you'll know for certain and won't have that nagging doubt. And if they're not then you're going to have to recon the engine/head (or get an exchange unit) anyway.
Of course one easy way to get an idea of the state of the bores without taking the head off is to run a compression test. Again, see that Haynes manual.
Taking the head off might be more work, but it'll give you chance to see exactly what state your old engine is in. That way, if the bores and guides are OK you'll know for certain and won't have that nagging doubt. And if they're not then you're going to have to recon the engine/head (or get an exchange unit) anyway.
Of course one easy way to get an idea of the state of the bores without taking the head off is to run a compression test. Again, see that Haynes manual.
Update,
Had a go round it on the weekend and it looks like the bottom half is just as much to blame as the top.
Overall the engine is quite worn, though I'd say it's got some miles in it yet. I'll probably use it for a couple of weeks in summer then get shot of it.
Certainly not going to take it apart.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Alan.
Had a go round it on the weekend and it looks like the bottom half is just as much to blame as the top.
Overall the engine is quite worn, though I'd say it's got some miles in it yet. I'll probably use it for a couple of weeks in summer then get shot of it.
Certainly not going to take it apart.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Alan.
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