combo 1.7cdti blowby
Discussion
Most of it now back togeather, started it before and the problem with the injector is fixed, no more smoke or chuffing noise. Didn't get to run it for long because my thermostat flange is leaking, though it was the gasket so tryed to tighten it a bit more but broke the end of the flange off. So round scrapyard tomorrow for that, must of missed a bit of the old gasket off it or it's those crappy gaskets from ecp.
torchwooduk said:
Most of it now back togeather, started it before and the problem with the injector is fixed, no more smoke or chuffing noise. Didn't get to run it for long because my thermostat flange is leaking, though it was the gasket so tryed to tighten it a bit more but broke the end of the flange off. So round scrapyard tomorrow for that, must of missed a bit of the old gasket off it or it's those crappy gaskets from ecp.
On the cdti there is NO gasket between the stat housing and the cylinder head. Fitting one will make it more likely to break bits off...as you've created a gap outside the newly installed gasket which will bend the front bit when you tighten the bolt up...because it's no longer flat to the headSealer only.
And make sure you followed the instruction for tightening the injector clamps up, if not they will come loose again.
Torqued the injectors up following your instructions, I have used rtv on the thermostat housing, it's the flange bit that broke here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wasserstutzen-Thermosta...
torchwooduk said:
Torqued the injectors up following your instructions, I have used rtv on the thermostat housing, it's the flange bit that broke here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wasserstutzen-Thermosta...
Yea, that bit should have a thin paper gasket...weird it broke. Although no real need to undo that from the housing.That said, whilst in there, can do no harm to throw a new stat in. The OEM ones have a rubber inner ring that perishes a little causing them to take a long time to warm up. No big deal in summer, but if it is worn, it can make a good difference to the heater in winter. If heater isnt great coming into winter, worth thinking about.
I've changed a few stats, but never actually needed a new gasket as the old ones have always been in good condition anyway....I've a collection of new gaskets here too lol
I took the thermostat housing off again, gave both surfaces a clean and used some fresh rtv, wasn't 100% that it wasn't running down from the back of the housing, likely from one of the scews. I have also used rtv on the flange rather than a paper gasket. No longer leaking although I now seem to have sprung a leak from my rad, 1 step forward and 2 back atm.
One other thing is i'm getting a hard start from cold, once it has warmed up it is fine. I'm getting a glowplug relay malfunction present fault in opcom. It that likely to be my problem even though it is 19c outside? where is the relay on these and is their a fuse for the plugs?
One other thing is i'm getting a hard start from cold, once it has warmed up it is fine. I'm getting a glowplug relay malfunction present fault in opcom. It that likely to be my problem even though it is 19c outside? where is the relay on these and is their a fuse for the plugs?
Edited by torchwooduk on Sunday 29th July 21:31
torchwooduk said:
I took the thermostat housing off again, gave both surfaces a clean and used some fresh rtv, wasn't 100% that it wasn't running down from the back of the housing, likely from one of the scews. I have also used rtv on the flange rather than a paper gasket. No longer leaking although I now seem to have sprung a leak from my rad, 1 step forward and 2 back atm.
One other thing is i'm getting a hard start from cold, once it has warmed up it is fine. I'm getting a glowplug relay malfunction present fault in opcom. It that likely to be my problem even though it is 19c outside? where is the relay on these and is their a fuse for the plugs?
There will be codes for either pair of glow plugs ( or the relay itself which is a One other thing is i'm getting a hard start from cold, once it has warmed up it is fine. I'm getting a glowplug relay malfunction present fault in opcom. It that likely to be my problem even though it is 19c outside? where is the relay on these and is their a fuse for the plugs?
Edited by torchwooduk on Sunday 29th July 21:31
of a thing to get at, stuffed/clipped onto they side of the fuse box, between it and the inner wing behind the passenger side headlight )So the problem could easily be a glow plug or more, poor connection at the glow plugs etc etc
Strangely shortly after doing similar work....I had the same. I assumed relay...changed it to no avail ( f
ker )Turned out it was one of the glow plugs, although I threw in a set of 4 anyway. This was despite all of them appearing to work ok anyway, at least when testing with 12v.
Not always as simple as that, as on some cars ( I didnt actually test this ) glow plugs are PWM'd so actually run for a long time but at reduced power, but will see an initial 12v hit so they warm up very fast, but average voltage might drop down to 4-5v at which they can be on for several minutes after start.
But even with one not working, mine had no issues starting or running even during the winter when I had these woes.
If you want to change the relay....it really is a bugger to get at. I would nearly say to remove the passenger side headlight ( which almost means remove the front bumper ). But it is doable without that.
Open fuse box, unbolt it from the car to allow some movement, unclip as much if the innards as possible and heave them out of the way to allow you to move/squeeze the fuse box as much as possible to try and get access to the GPR.
The relay itself is just clipped onto the side of the fuse box, but of course the big wiring plug is also clipped into the relay and takes a firm grip to release the clip. Hence why removing the headlight can be worth doing so at least you can get a better visual on it and some improved access.
torchwooduk said:
I did a ohms test with my meter and i'm only getting a reading on one of the plugs, which was around 0.6 I think, wondering if I have damaged the ends when I had the head off. Think I will put in a new set of 4 and see what happens before I bother with the relay.
Exactly what is the code ? It should state bank 1/2 for glow plugs...although it only relates to either pair, not cylinder banks obviously.If you pull them out, it should be fairly obvious if one isnt lighting up...although strangely as said, when the light was coming on I tested mine and they did all work with a brief 12v test...but one was not happy in the car.
Fitted a new set ( Bosch off ebay...think around £40-50 for the set ) and all was well again.
Strangely the other Combo I bought, very low mileage etc...not long after I got it, it started throwing faults for the relay. Swapped it for one from the Meriva I bought for the engine and it's been fine since.
But IMO the glow plugs are a lot easier replaced than that bloody relay.
The exact fault code is P0380 - (2) Glow Time Relay Circuit Malfunction - Not present
I have fixed my leak, fitted a new rad after fitting one from the scrap yard that also leaked. Apart from the glowplug issue the other code i'm getting is P0602 - ( A ) Small Injection Quantity not Learned - Present, for some reason the injectors were programmed with different codes than the one printed on the plug, I have used the ones on the plug and get that fault although it could be related to the below issue.
I have to crank it for a few seconds before it fires up and then it will start ok the rest of the day, idle seems a bit rough and I'm sure I have a knock, also noticed some white smoke when reversing and the exhaust fumes smell strong. Just wondering if a piece of o ring may have gone down the leak off pipe hole on the top of an injector, the old leak off pipes were brittle and broke when removing them. I had to use a small screwdrive to get one out of the end of one of the injectors.
I have fixed my leak, fitted a new rad after fitting one from the scrap yard that also leaked. Apart from the glowplug issue the other code i'm getting is P0602 - ( A ) Small Injection Quantity not Learned - Present, for some reason the injectors were programmed with different codes than the one printed on the plug, I have used the ones on the plug and get that fault although it could be related to the below issue.
I have to crank it for a few seconds before it fires up and then it will start ok the rest of the day, idle seems a bit rough and I'm sure I have a knock, also noticed some white smoke when reversing and the exhaust fumes smell strong. Just wondering if a piece of o ring may have gone down the leak off pipe hole on the top of an injector, the old leak off pipes were brittle and broke when removing them. I had to use a small screwdrive to get one out of the end of one of the injectors.
torchwooduk said:
The exact fault code is P0380 - (2) Glow Time Relay Circuit Malfunction - Not present
I have fixed my leak, fitted a new rad after fitting one from the scrap yard that also leaked. Apart from the glowplug issue the other code i'm getting is P0602 - ( A ) Small Injection Quantity not Learned - Present, for some reason the injectors were programmed with different codes than the one printed on the plug, I have used the ones on the plug and get that fault although it could be related to the below issue.
I have to crank it for a few seconds before it fires up and then it will start ok the rest of the day, idle seems a bit rough and I'm sure I have a knock, also noticed some white smoke when reversing and the exhaust fumes smell strong. Just wondering if a piece of o ring may have gone down the leak off pipe hole on the top of an injector, the old leak off pipes were brittle and broke when removing them. I had to use a small screwdrive to get one out of the end of one of the injectors.
When I swapped the engine from the Meriva I got the same code...and I did reprogram my injectors to the ecu. Fed up I swapped the Meriva ecu into my van and all was well so just left it like that.I have fixed my leak, fitted a new rad after fitting one from the scrap yard that also leaked. Apart from the glowplug issue the other code i'm getting is P0602 - ( A ) Small Injection Quantity not Learned - Present, for some reason the injectors were programmed with different codes than the one printed on the plug, I have used the ones on the plug and get that fault although it could be related to the below issue.
I have to crank it for a few seconds before it fires up and then it will start ok the rest of the day, idle seems a bit rough and I'm sure I have a knock, also noticed some white smoke when reversing and the exhaust fumes smell strong. Just wondering if a piece of o ring may have gone down the leak off pipe hole on the top of an injector, the old leak off pipes were brittle and broke when removing them. I had to use a small screwdrive to get one out of the end of one of the injectors.
But speaking to the VauxCom guy, the "learning" part is actually in output testing in Vauxcom...which doesnt really make a lot of sense, under "Small Injection Quantity Learning" apparently.
But I never did go through the process myself.
Strangely on both vans I've changed/reprogrammed injectors now multiple times and never had the same code appear. It was only that once when I changed the engine.
As for actual injector codes....there is a caveat there. Original injectors have the codes etched into the top connector. I bought a couple of sets of recons and these have this painted over and some poxy plastic plate glued onto the injector stem where the pipe attaches that has a new code etched into it...which will be inside the rocker cover. Which after a short period after fitting...will fall off and end up in the engine. Which is f
king stupid.So if it looks like your injectors had the tag on the electrical connector covered over...that might be why. If the code there is clearly visible then they should be original ok.
If the seals were damaged on the bleed off pipes, I'd say leaks would be the main problem ? There's a place on ebay, dieseldoctor or something sells the little fittings and o-rings too. Make sure you get them for the Denso injectors, not Bosch which is more common..I think they'd be different.
eg. Pretty sure they sell o-rings seperately too.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Corsa-1-7-CDTi...
I'd say the slow starting and knocking may be a combination of all parts...maybe leaky bleed off and the small inj learning code. Probably less likely the glow plug issue
But as the relay was fine before, I'd be checking/testing glowplugs and their connections first. There are the 4 obvious connectors at the plug itself, then these route into 2 heavy wires with another connector that clamps onto the metal boost pipe on the inlet manifold. 1 wire for each pair of glow plugs. Maybe worth checking it's plugged in securely as it takes a good shove if I recall.
I did see that listing on eBay but it dosn't come with a 3 way tee, so I ended up buying a complete one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VAUXHALL-MERIVA...
Can't help but think some debris may be in one of the injectors, might take the tops off and see if I can spray something down to check and refit, not sure if that will work and if it worth running some cleaner through too aftert. I have ordered 4 new bosch glow plugs £30, seems a bit cheap but seller looks genuine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLP092-BOSCH-GLOW-PLUG-... The numbers are clearly printed on the injector plugs, so no idea why different codes were entered.
Can't help but think some debris may be in one of the injectors, might take the tops off and see if I can spray something down to check and refit, not sure if that will work and if it worth running some cleaner through too aftert. I have ordered 4 new bosch glow plugs £30, seems a bit cheap but seller looks genuine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLP092-BOSCH-GLOW-PLUG-... The numbers are clearly printed on the injector plugs, so no idea why different codes were entered.
Edited by torchwooduk on Thursday 2nd August 20:04
Just relized the number in the error code refers to which cylinder the plug is in, for some reason no 4 dosn't click on like the rest. Anyway that's the least of my problems, think I am ready to give up on this van. Tryed to get the glowplugs out being very gentle, they started to turn but the nuts have broken on 2, managed to replace the other 2 but now need a way to remove the broken 2 because i'm not removing the head.
They only turned a bit so engine still starts with no loss of compression, also alternator issue again, noticed it was making a noise so checked when got back home and it was smoking again, seems to have stopped now. It was replaced with one from the scrappy 2 weeks ago because of the same issue, no idea if it is just coincidence that another one is likely to fail or if something else is causing it. If that goes I think I will just give up, shame because the engine has only done just over 60k.
They only turned a bit so engine still starts with no loss of compression, also alternator issue again, noticed it was making a noise so checked when got back home and it was smoking again, seems to have stopped now. It was replaced with one from the scrappy 2 weeks ago because of the same issue, no idea if it is just coincidence that another one is likely to fail or if something else is causing it. If that goes I think I will just give up, shame because the engine has only done just over 60k.
torchwooduk said:
Just relized the number in the error code refers to which cylinder the plug is in, for some reason no 4 dosn't click on like the rest. Anyway that's the least of my problems, think I am ready to give up on this van. Tryed to get the glowplugs out being very gentle, they started to turn but the nuts have broken on 2, managed to replace the other 2 but now need a way to remove the broken 2 because i'm not removing the head.
They only turned a bit so engine still starts with no loss of compression, also alternator issue again, noticed it was making a noise so checked when got back home and it was smoking again, seems to have stopped now. It was replaced with one from the scrappy 2 weeks ago because of the same issue, no idea if it is just coincidence that another one is likely to fail or if something else is causing it. If that goes I think I will just give up, shame because the engine has only done just over 60k.
Not 100% sure on that....as I think there are codes for a pair of cylinders. Certainly there is no way the ecu can identify a single cylinder.They only turned a bit so engine still starts with no loss of compression, also alternator issue again, noticed it was making a noise so checked when got back home and it was smoking again, seems to have stopped now. It was replaced with one from the scrappy 2 weeks ago because of the same issue, no idea if it is just coincidence that another one is likely to fail or if something else is causing it. If that goes I think I will just give up, shame because the engine has only done just over 60k.
So the actual plug has broken in the head ? Is there anything left of it to get a hold of ?
You never removed them when removing the head and changing the sleeve ?
It's really hard to imagine the engine only has 60k....given the number of issues. Although alternator failure as said is pretty common. I've usually ended up replacing them every 150k or so. If there are leaks and they get oily...it'll be less. I'm sure a few deep puddles/floods didnt help some too. Another awkward bugger to change....again, removal of the front bumper/crash bar does make this easier. Prices of them have come down a lot...I recall first one I bought a few years back was near £300 ! Last one was only around £120 and no old unit needed.
To be honest i'm suspicious of the mileage, I left the plugs in when I removed the head, should of really removed and replaced them then. It seems to be very common for them to break just below the hex nut on these vans from looking around. The nut and electrode are still on but the nut just spins, there isn't a lot of room to try and grip anything.
I might see if I can remove the nut and electrode and see if I can hammer a torx socket in. The alternator I got from the scrappy was pretty dirty, clogged up with old oil by the looks of it but I was pretty stuck and that was all they had in.
I might see if I can remove the nut and electrode and see if I can hammer a torx socket in. The alternator I got from the scrappy was pretty dirty, clogged up with old oil by the looks of it but I was pretty stuck and that was all they had in.
Although the light would be on...I'd say leave the glow plugs for now and resolve any other issues. It will start and run fine without the glow plugs and if everything works fine thereafter then you cold fix them later ( or leave them until they have to be fixed )
In the meantime spray a lot of WD40 down around them which might hopefully soak in past the threads etc and aid release later. Patience with WD40 usually does make a big difference by allowing it a long time to soak down.
No way would I have bought a used alternator given the relatively high failure rate. Although I'm sure a local alternator place could repair one of them at a sensible price too
My van is my livelihood too...so I always try to fit new parts. Just isnt worth the hassle/risk/downtime to do anything else for most parts.
In the meantime spray a lot of WD40 down around them which might hopefully soak in past the threads etc and aid release later. Patience with WD40 usually does make a big difference by allowing it a long time to soak down.
No way would I have bought a used alternator given the relatively high failure rate. Although I'm sure a local alternator place could repair one of them at a sensible price too
My van is my livelihood too...so I always try to fit new parts. Just isnt worth the hassle/risk/downtime to do anything else for most parts.
stevieturbo said:
In the meantime apply a lot of good quality penetrating oil down around them which might hopefully soak in past the threads etc and aid release later. Patience with penetrating oil usually does make a big difference by allowing it a long time to soak down.
Fixed that typo for you.bmouthboyo said:
Sorry for digging this up but I was wondering from the original video the OP posted how you can tell it is the injectors leaking?
To me it sounds like my engine and as it is high mileage just wanted to check how I could diagnose same?
Thanks
Exactly what is your problem though and what needs diagnosed ?To me it sounds like my engine and as it is high mileage just wanted to check how I could diagnose same?
Thanks
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