Gearstick shake after new clutch

[Cvvc1]

Hello , could anyone advise . Had a new clutch , at idle I can feel a vibration through the gearstick or I can feel part of the drive train
If I put it into a gear the shaking sensation stop, if I then return the car back to neutral I have no vibrations at all , if I blip the accelerator pedal the vibrations return ,,and continue until u select a gear then Return to neutral where it will be fine again touch the accelerator shakes agaian it's a manual car . I am doing all this topped at idle .

Edited by Cvvc1 on Monday 10th February 19:31

Edited by Cvvc1 on Monday 10th February 19:35

[Mercdriver]

Who fitted the clutch? Garage or yourself? Did they use alignment tool, has the clutch plate securing bolts Ben tightened up correctly. If a garage straight back to them!

Is there a cover you can remove to see the bolts? Might be worth checking they are tight.

[Cvvc1]

It was a garage I have gone back and paid 200 for an engine mount which has done nothing . Why would selecting a gear the returning to neutral to the vibration though and why would it start again as soon as go near accelerator

Edited by Cvvc1 on Tuesday 11th February 07:40

[Lo-Fi]

Cvvc1 said:

Hello , could anyone advise . Had a new clutch , at idle I can feel a vibration through the gearstick or I can feel part of the drive train
If I put it into a gear the shaking sensation stop, if I then return the car back to neutral I have no vibrations at all , if I blip the accelerator pedal the vibrations return ,,and continue until u select a gear then Return to neutral where it will be fine again touch the accelerator shakes agaian it's a manual car . I am doing all this topped at idle .

Edited by Cvvc1 on Monday 10th February 19:31

Edited by Cvvc1 on Monday 10th February 19:35

[ShortBeardy]

Assuming it's all be put back together correctly and the bolts torqued up... then the clutch cover, plate and flywheel could be out of balance.
Typically the flywheel is by far the most massive of the three. However, it's unlikely in a new vehicle, but possible in a much older car where balancing the clutch cover and flywheel is something one would have done for a performance high revving motor. Talking 50s, 60,and possibly 70s... more recent car parts are generally OK without balancing.

If its a lightened flywheel they can cause chatter - play in the gearbox which would normally be damped out by the mass of the flywheel is not. The result is chattering or a rattle that is heard typically at idle but probably/might go away as engine speed is increased (due to resonances). Also might change when depressing the clutch

[ShortBeardy]

Does this have a DMF -dual mass flywheel?
the above assumes its just a simple sold flywheel, but a DMF can do weird things if its buggered. A decent garage would have told you when changing the clutch that it needed changing... They're not cheap

[paintman]

Appreciate this is a Land Rover gearbox thing & a diesel engine to boot, but might be of interest

Q. "My gearbox rattles on idle, in neutral, with the clutch up"
A. This is very common on Diesel engined vehicles. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. Often especially with a new clutch these springs are quite tight and a lot of the engine knock goes through to the gearbox and makes the gears “chatter” together when the box is in neutral and the clutch up, it goes when the clutch is depressed. This can sound quite bad and does vary from car to car but is not detrimental to the life of the gearbox and we view it as an undesirable characteristic of the LT 77 and R 380 as opposed to a fault with either the gearbox or the clutch.
https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/lt77/

[Richard-D]

Mercdriver said:

Who fitted the clutch? Garage or yourself? Did they use alignment tool, has the clutch plate securing bolts Ben tightened up correctly. If a garage straight back to them!

Is there a cover you can remove to see the bolts? Might be worth checking they are tight.

A clutch alignment tool is only useful to assist in aligning the friction plate during assembly. If it's out of alignment you won't be able to mate the engine and 'box. Once it's assembled it's irrelevant whether or not it was used.