Running rich black smoke
Discussion
Hi i am having a problem with my 2014 Peugeot 208 1.6thp 156 bhp petrol. When i start the car it smells really rich and its kicking out black smoke. Car is also very lumpy at idle. My topdon obd2 scanner is showing fuel trims going as low as -20%. The long term fuel trim is +2.3%. Once the car gets up to temperature the short term fuel trim seems to normalise and after iv driven it theres no more smelling and black smoke. Car has plenty of power.
Any advice or expertise appreciated!
Any advice or expertise appreciated!
itcaptainslow said:
Check the live data from the coolant temp sensor. If it’s showing an implausible value like -30 degrees, that’s probably your culprit, causing the ECU to massively overfuel.
Known issue on the EP engine.
Topdon is reporting that the coolant temperature when i started it today as 12 degrees. Just checked the weather and its 13 degrees outside.Known issue on the EP engine.
Could be a lambda sensor or MAF sensor fault, they don't throw fault codes if they go out of spec as the ECU is still getting a value.
If it's OK warmed up, and the water temp ECU sensor is reading OK, then it may be the lambda sensor heater has failed so needs the exhaust gasses getting hot to bring the lambda sensor into it's working range.
Both lambda and MAF can cause fuelling issues.
If it's OK warmed up, and the water temp ECU sensor is reading OK, then it may be the lambda sensor heater has failed so needs the exhaust gasses getting hot to bring the lambda sensor into it's working range.
Both lambda and MAF can cause fuelling issues.
Hammer67 said:
Correct, they need to be reporting the correct values. If they fail they tend to tell the ECU it’s running lean and the ECU responds by overfuelling.
So do i need to note down the voltage of B1-S1 and B1-S2 at the time of that particular STFT reading? For example: STFT -14.1% B1S1=0.770V B1S2=0.450VDo i also need to make note of how fast and how extreme the voltage is switching about?
Strangely the diagnostic reader reported the car was at 36 degrees, it then started counting back down to 33 degrees before counting back up. Also the dial on the dash was claiming the car was at 90 degrees when diagnostic reader was reporting 70 odd degrees. The readings on the dash do not seem to be tallying with what the diagnostic reader is reporting.
Haveagohero said:
Strangely the diagnostic reader reported the car was at 36 degrees, it then started counting back down to 33 degrees before counting back up. Also the dial on the dash was claiming the car was at 90 degrees when diagnostic reader was reporting 70 odd degrees. The readings on the dash do not seem to be tallying with what the diagnostic reader is reporting.
Some cars have 2 temp sensors, one for the dash, one for the ECU.
That muddies the water then.
First check that wherever you take it will actually engage with the warranty with any claim, many small places simply won`t and you will have to pay and claim.
That`s assuming the warranty allows that and the fault/repair is actually covered.
The selling dealer should be looking after you for the first 6 months regardless of any warranty, but if they`re miles away that`s your problem not theirs to overcome.
First check that wherever you take it will actually engage with the warranty with any claim, many small places simply won`t and you will have to pay and claim.
That`s assuming the warranty allows that and the fault/repair is actually covered.
The selling dealer should be looking after you for the first 6 months regardless of any warranty, but if they`re miles away that`s your problem not theirs to overcome.
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