Stalling at junctions on run down 206
Discussion
Hi everyone, I've got a peugeot 206 (year 2000, 1.4, petrol, Tu3jp) which has done 119k. It has a problem (which is Apparently common in pugs) where if I'm coming to a junction and at lower revs and take the car out of gear it cuts out (like I've rotated the key back one notch, smooth cutout but all test lights come on) and the steering and brakes no longer work as intended. I restart with no trouble every time no check engine lights and if I take the car out of gear at higher revs slowing down the revs drop at a weird rate sometimes, not smoothly.
The car always starts first time and drives smooth, it has been serviced recently. You wouldn't know the car had a problem.
I did some head scratching and changed my gearbox speed sensor, my stepper motor, MAP sensor, coil pack, crankshaft sensor and fuel filter and have cleaned the throttle body and associated bypass bits and checked the pipes for a vac leak.
I have trawled the forums, including this one which I have found to be practical and helpful in the past. There are topics of this nature in this forums history but this is a little different as I have changed a few quids worth of parts now and am losing my mind!
Can anybody shed some light on this problem or how to fix it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
The car always starts first time and drives smooth, it has been serviced recently. You wouldn't know the car had a problem.
I did some head scratching and changed my gearbox speed sensor, my stepper motor, MAP sensor, coil pack, crankshaft sensor and fuel filter and have cleaned the throttle body and associated bypass bits and checked the pipes for a vac leak.
I have trawled the forums, including this one which I have found to be practical and helpful in the past. There are topics of this nature in this forums history but this is a little different as I have changed a few quids worth of parts now and am losing my mind!
Can anybody shed some light on this problem or how to fix it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
Not familiar with that car or that problem, but it makes me suspect a fault in the idle speed control mechanism. Does it happen at all vehicle speeds? For example, if you declutch and take your foot off the throttle while cruising, does the engine stall? (I assume you would be able to bump start it easily so this ought to be safe to do.)
The car only stalls when I'm slowing down enough to change gear IF I take it out of gear aka at a junction, if I take it out of gear while cruising it runs fine.
So let's say I'm in third going about 27mph, I have to stop at a roundabout I brake down to the lower end of the revs and take it out of gear-it cuts out
Or I'm on the motorway in fifth at 70, I have to brake enough to change down it cuts out but doesn't seem to do it every time at higher speeds. I'm trying to mentally log the threshold of when it stalls, it definitely feels like either the message isn't getting through to the idle speed control valve or the valve is knackered (I have changed the valve so it can't be)
On another forum in somebody else's case it suggests changing the spark plugs but my car runs perfect I can't see it being the problem?
Another suggestion was that the car has a bad gearbox earth which would confuse the Ecu?
So let's say I'm in third going about 27mph, I have to stop at a roundabout I brake down to the lower end of the revs and take it out of gear-it cuts out
Or I'm on the motorway in fifth at 70, I have to brake enough to change down it cuts out but doesn't seem to do it every time at higher speeds. I'm trying to mentally log the threshold of when it stalls, it definitely feels like either the message isn't getting through to the idle speed control valve or the valve is knackered (I have changed the valve so it can't be)
On another forum in somebody else's case it suggests changing the spark plugs but my car runs perfect I can't see it being the problem?
Another suggestion was that the car has a bad gearbox earth which would confuse the Ecu?
Edited by PattoJ on Wednesday 18th July 17:40
Edited by PattoJ on Wednesday 18th July 18:04
I had a similar problem a few years ago with the same make and model, although it would cut out almost every time it came down to idle. Looking at live data I noticed the coolant temp was -40 degrees so I fitted a new sensor, not expecting this to fix the fault but it did!!
I was so convinced it was a coincidence I fitted the old sensor but the fault returned.
I presume the ecu was setting fuel and ignition for cold running and the engine couldn’t handle the fuel enrichment on idle.
Not something I would ever have checked for a cutting out fault but it’s worth a look.
I was so convinced it was a coincidence I fitted the old sensor but the fault returned.
I presume the ecu was setting fuel and ignition for cold running and the engine couldn’t handle the fuel enrichment on idle.
Not something I would ever have checked for a cutting out fault but it’s worth a look.
I had this with my 206, a 2004 model but a 1.1 back when I was 17/18, except it wasn't only at junctions;
Driving down NSL A-roads on constant throttle, at 0.9 leaptons on the M25, regularly when in traffic.
I never got to the bottom of the issue and sold it on before i fixed it, seems like all 206's do it
Driving down NSL A-roads on constant throttle, at 0.9 leaptons on the M25, regularly when in traffic.
I never got to the bottom of the issue and sold it on before i fixed it, seems like all 206's do it
I would maybe take a look at the brake servo. A leak there can cause the engine to stall as the servo needs engine vac signal to operate.
Could be the servo going bad itself (my guess). The pipe leading to it sounds like you have checked it. Does the engine stall when you are operating the brake? How is the pedal? I'd expect a light to be thrown however for something like this. Worth a look, looks like you've covered everything else I'd suspect.
Funnily enough I have a daily appliance R56 Mini that I'm convinced has a haunted engine, strange stalling behavior the same as yours does. It'll keep stalling until you turn the car off manually and restart it, then it's absolutely fine and runs like a dream. After changing a lot of parts myself (vanos solenoids / plugs / coil packs / 2 lambda sensors etc.) the main dealer and a specialist couldn't find what is causing it. So I'm going to run the bd in to the ground mercilessly for its sins, I just cannot bring myself to sell it to some other poor sap.
Could be the servo going bad itself (my guess). The pipe leading to it sounds like you have checked it. Does the engine stall when you are operating the brake? How is the pedal? I'd expect a light to be thrown however for something like this. Worth a look, looks like you've covered everything else I'd suspect.
Funnily enough I have a daily appliance R56 Mini that I'm convinced has a haunted engine, strange stalling behavior the same as yours does. It'll keep stalling until you turn the car off manually and restart it, then it's absolutely fine and runs like a dream. After changing a lot of parts myself (vanos solenoids / plugs / coil packs / 2 lambda sensors etc.) the main dealer and a specialist couldn't find what is causing it. So I'm going to run the bd in to the ground mercilessly for its sins, I just cannot bring myself to sell it to some other poor sap.
Peugeot decided to save a few cents on these engines by not fitting a cam phase sensor, and instead looking at the HT voltage developed by the coils to determine cam phase. The voltage required to initiate a spark increases with cylinder pressure, so by measuring the voltage (via the primary winding) the ECU can determine cam phase. At least that's the theory.
Unfortunately coils made by Sagem appear to screw things up; a common symptom being stalling as you pull up to a junction. Spark plugs seem to have some influence on this as well. It's recommended to stick with the OEM coil pack and spark plugs.
If this is the cause you will probably have code P1327 stored.
Unfortunately coils made by Sagem appear to screw things up; a common symptom being stalling as you pull up to a junction. Spark plugs seem to have some influence on this as well. It's recommended to stick with the OEM coil pack and spark plugs.
If this is the cause you will probably have code P1327 stored.
Edited by Mr2Mike on Thursday 19th July 18:10
I'll have a check of the invoice for the coil pack, may have been the HAAS one. Either way I changed it over after a while of having the issue and the car seemed to be more nippy (although I'm thinking this is a placebo due to my wallet being lighter)
I've got the OBI2 reader on order and have the app, don't know how far I'll get on the free version! May have to fork out for the full version..
Its a bit of a cow because although I've just changed my driving style by dipping the clutch I want the darn thing to work as was intended!
I've got the OBI2 reader on order and have the app, don't know how far I'll get on the free version! May have to fork out for the full version..
Its a bit of a cow because although I've just changed my driving style by dipping the clutch I want the darn thing to work as was intended!
PattoJ said:
Its a bit of a cow because although I've just changed my driving style by dipping the clutch I want the darn thing to work as was intended!
I used to have an old beetle that suffered from carburettor icing in the winter. I'd approach junctions / traffic lights & roundabouts with the clutch dipped, revving the engine and slowing down with the handbrake so the engine wouldn't stall out... Oh the fun!Well, got my Bluetooth connector in the post, low and behold it won't connect to my Bluetooth.. It's probably something I'm doing wrong, me and technology don't mix.
So I did some runs to check the parameters of the stalling..
The car will happily go from first to third with really low revs in third (less than 2000) while accelerating no problems, never cuts out.
However if I were to be coasting down on a level road slowing gradually in speed and take it out of gear at 2000 it will cut out.
Higher revs (2500) will usually kangaroo down to about 5/600 (almost cut out) then zip back to normal idle (hot=900) immediately after.
I think I must have a fuel related problem?
I will fix the sod one day if it kills me!
So I did some runs to check the parameters of the stalling..
The car will happily go from first to third with really low revs in third (less than 2000) while accelerating no problems, never cuts out.
However if I were to be coasting down on a level road slowing gradually in speed and take it out of gear at 2000 it will cut out.
Higher revs (2500) will usually kangaroo down to about 5/600 (almost cut out) then zip back to normal idle (hot=900) immediately after.
I think I must have a fuel related problem?
I will fix the sod one day if it kills me!
I had the same issue some time ago, like MrMike said maybe try a different coil pack?Have a read of my post from the time...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Hope this helps!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Hope this helps!
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