Car runs for a few seconds then stops
Discussion
Hi all,
We've had a K11 Micra in the family for the last 11 years, and the only breakdown in all that time was due to a worn out ignition switch. Now, just a week before its new owner collects it, we have a problem. It's been stood unused for a couple of months, but was fine when last used.
The issue now is that it starts, runs for a few seconds then stops. If you try to start it again immediately, it cranks but doesn't start. If you leave it for a few seconds it starts, but then dies again. Once it starts, it doesn't matter if you leave it idling or whether you rev it, it still cuts out after about 3 seconds.
It's not an OBDII car, so I can't scan it, but you can put the ECU into diagnostic mode using a jumper wire. I've done this and no lights come up.
My first thought was the battery, but it's seems to spin the motor over fine, and has had no trouble starting the car. I can hear the fuel pump working. Not sure where to look now, so any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Paul
We've had a K11 Micra in the family for the last 11 years, and the only breakdown in all that time was due to a worn out ignition switch. Now, just a week before its new owner collects it, we have a problem. It's been stood unused for a couple of months, but was fine when last used.
The issue now is that it starts, runs for a few seconds then stops. If you try to start it again immediately, it cranks but doesn't start. If you leave it for a few seconds it starts, but then dies again. Once it starts, it doesn't matter if you leave it idling or whether you rev it, it still cuts out after about 3 seconds.
It's not an OBDII car, so I can't scan it, but you can put the ECU into diagnostic mode using a jumper wire. I've done this and no lights come up.
My first thought was the battery, but it's seems to spin the motor over fine, and has had no trouble starting the car. I can hear the fuel pump working. Not sure where to look now, so any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Paul
Just to close this off:
There appears to be no mechanics in my area that are mobile AND have the Nissan diagnostic equipment required to resolve immobiliser faults, so I was facing a considerable bill to get the car to a specialist for them to look at it. Unless I could fix it myself...
I had left the battery off the car while I charged it, and had read that sometimes leaving it disconnected for a while resets the system. It didn't work.
I had also seen on the internet that to re-sync the key to the car, you have to switch the ignition on & off 5 times within 10 seconds and then start the car immediately. This didn't work either, and a local Nissan "specialist" had never heard of this method.
I then stripped out some of the dash and centre console panels, as by then I was resigned to having to get someone to look at it, so thought I'd make access easier. This allowed access to the ECU, so I thought I'd disconnect it for a few minutes then re-connect it. Shortly afterwards I noticed that the immobiliser warning light was flashing (as it should when the car isn't running). I put the key in the ignition and started the car...and it stayed running!
Having got this far, I then tried the other key, and the car stopped again after a few seconds. I then tried the "switching on & off" trick mentioned above, and it worked - 2nd key sync'd to the car.
So in summary, for some reason while the car was standing, the immobiliser lost it's memory. Disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU reset the system. Once reset, one key already worked and the second key was then matched to the car. Everything's now working fine, and car is now sold. Result!
There appears to be no mechanics in my area that are mobile AND have the Nissan diagnostic equipment required to resolve immobiliser faults, so I was facing a considerable bill to get the car to a specialist for them to look at it. Unless I could fix it myself...
I had left the battery off the car while I charged it, and had read that sometimes leaving it disconnected for a while resets the system. It didn't work.
I had also seen on the internet that to re-sync the key to the car, you have to switch the ignition on & off 5 times within 10 seconds and then start the car immediately. This didn't work either, and a local Nissan "specialist" had never heard of this method.
I then stripped out some of the dash and centre console panels, as by then I was resigned to having to get someone to look at it, so thought I'd make access easier. This allowed access to the ECU, so I thought I'd disconnect it for a few minutes then re-connect it. Shortly afterwards I noticed that the immobiliser warning light was flashing (as it should when the car isn't running). I put the key in the ignition and started the car...and it stayed running!
Having got this far, I then tried the other key, and the car stopped again after a few seconds. I then tried the "switching on & off" trick mentioned above, and it worked - 2nd key sync'd to the car.
So in summary, for some reason while the car was standing, the immobiliser lost it's memory. Disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU reset the system. Once reset, one key already worked and the second key was then matched to the car. Everything's now working fine, and car is now sold. Result!
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