Fuse 22 remote switch fitted.
Discussion
Arjxh56 said:
Can someone please post a link to the switch on ebay? I have searched and cannot find the one you have used above? 
I did a search for Logisys RB02 and it came up with a few, all in America though. Here's the cheapest onehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
davidexige said:
I did a search for Logisys RB02 and it came up with a few, all in America though. Here's the cheapest one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
Thanks for that.. No idea why i couldnt find it! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
davidexige said:
I did a search for Logisys RB02 and it came up with a few, all in America though. Here's the cheapest one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
That's the one, although it's RM02.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
triple5 said:
DB9VolanteDriver said:
You only need one 15A fuse...just move it to the other side of the node. As you have drawn it, you could draw a total of 30A from the circuit; not advisable when the original circuit is fused for 20A.
Not sure I agree as the RM02 will effectively be unfused. However, it has made me take another look and would suggest lowering the fuse rating for the RM02. In this configuration the RM02 will not be drawing hardly any current as the relay will be doing all the work. I’ll update the drawing later, thanks.
897sma said:
Yes I think yours was one of the posts that made me have a go 
It looks like you have tapped a constant supply for the remote, does that mean it's always on and therefore drawing current?
That's not a permanent live terminal on mine. Although if it was, it's a momentary latching circuit in the remote rather than constant load which defaults to off so i would imagine standby current on a unit of that size would be incredibly small. Although mine is no longer used (still connected as I've never gotten around to taking it off) as I changed the back box a month or so later.
Allan the remote switch show on the post from a year ago uses one from Maplin.
The internal picture from the one at Maplin shows a common and NC contact, which is what you added to the default option I asked about.
Would you be able to combine your "Add a circuit fuse" which I like better than the wiring of the older post, but with the wiring going to a Maplin Remote switch giving the default option
of stealth mode and the remote switching it to loud mode.
I would work this out myself if I knew how to but my knowledge of electrical wiring is zilch.
I actually tried to buy the Paralight switch from an earlier post today but missed out on it my minutes.
The Paaralight kit gives me the default I am looking for, but I did notice the Remote control you get with the Paralight is identical to the
Maplin one, could be using the same Remote switch?
The internal picture from the one at Maplin shows a common and NC contact, which is what you added to the default option I asked about.
Would you be able to combine your "Add a circuit fuse" which I like better than the wiring of the older post, but with the wiring going to a Maplin Remote switch giving the default option
of stealth mode and the remote switching it to loud mode.
I would work this out myself if I knew how to but my knowledge of electrical wiring is zilch.
I actually tried to buy the Paralight switch from an earlier post today but missed out on it my minutes.
The Paaralight kit gives me the default I am looking for, but I did notice the Remote control you get with the Paralight is identical to the
Maplin one, could be using the same Remote switch?
Edited by Beoon on Monday 4th March 21:00
Beoon said:
Allan the remote switch show on the post from a year ago uses one from Maplin.
The internal picture from the one at Maplin shows a common and NC contact, which is what you added to the default option I asked about.
Would you be able to combine your "Add a circuit fuse" which I like better than the wiring of the older post, but with the wiring going to a Maplin Remote switch giving the default option
of stealth mode and the remote switching it to loud mode.
I would work this out myself if I knew how to but my knowledge of electrical wiring is zilch.
I actually tried to buy the Paralight switch from an earlier post today but missed out on it my minutes.
The Paaralight kit gives me the default I am looking for, but I did notice the Remote control you get with the Paralight is identical to the
Maplin one, could be using the same Remote switch?
I'll have a go at drawing something up tomorrow for you The internal picture from the one at Maplin shows a common and NC contact, which is what you added to the default option I asked about.
Would you be able to combine your "Add a circuit fuse" which I like better than the wiring of the older post, but with the wiring going to a Maplin Remote switch giving the default option
of stealth mode and the remote switching it to loud mode.
I would work this out myself if I knew how to but my knowledge of electrical wiring is zilch.
I actually tried to buy the Paralight switch from an earlier post today but missed out on it my minutes.
The Paaralight kit gives me the default I am looking for, but I did notice the Remote control you get with the Paralight is identical to the
Maplin one, could be using the same Remote switch?
Edited by Beoon on Monday 4th March 21:00
triple5 said:
I'll have a go at drawing something up tomorrow for you
Thanks Allan, Steve is going to post out the Maplin Remote Switch and associated wiring, although he has a DB9, so the wiring for my V8VR will be slightly different.I will order a couple of "add a circuit" fuse holders as well.
Thanks for your help guys
Alan
Alan, I’ve put this together although it would be good if 897sma/others could confirm as I’ve not actually got this unit myself.
Looking up the specs for the L26BK, Maplin rate it at 5A continuous/12A peak, I don’t know if yours will be the same, so have suggested a 10A fuse for the load. You could try a 5A and see if it’s enough.
For the +12v input to the L26BK you can either do as I’ve drawn, where it will take power from the supply side of fuse 22 (lower left hand slot on the add-a-circuit), or take a feed as 897sma shows in his pic, use an in-line fuse. If I've found the correct datasheet the max current drawn by the L26BK is 140ma, so although I've put a 1A on the drawing you could try and get a lower rated glass type.
On the Vantage the thick Red cable going into the fuse box is constant 12v (not IGN switched), so if you use that you will always be using a very small amount of power.
Looking up the specs for the L26BK, Maplin rate it at 5A continuous/12A peak, I don’t know if yours will be the same, so have suggested a 10A fuse for the load. You could try a 5A and see if it’s enough.
For the +12v input to the L26BK you can either do as I’ve drawn, where it will take power from the supply side of fuse 22 (lower left hand slot on the add-a-circuit), or take a feed as 897sma shows in his pic, use an in-line fuse. If I've found the correct datasheet the max current drawn by the L26BK is 140ma, so although I've put a 1A on the drawing you could try and get a lower rated glass type.
On the Vantage the thick Red cable going into the fuse box is constant 12v (not IGN switched), so if you use that you will always be using a very small amount of power.
Hi Allan,
Thanks very much for the time and trouble to come up with the wiring diagram for my preferred option.
I have e-mailed Steve (897sma) to ask him to have a look over it as you suggested.
If any other electrical boffins out there would like to check it out that would be appreciated
Thanks
Alan
Thanks very much for the time and trouble to come up with the wiring diagram for my preferred option.
I have e-mailed Steve (897sma) to ask him to have a look over it as you suggested.
If any other electrical boffins out there would like to check it out that would be appreciated
Thanks
Alan
Beoon said:
Hi Allan,
Thanks very much for the time and trouble to come up with the wiring diagram for my preferred option.
I have e-mailed Steve (897sma) to ask him to have a look over it as you suggested.
If any other electrical boffins out there would like to check it out that would be appreciated
Thanks
Alan
You're welcome Alan, the more input the better.Thanks very much for the time and trouble to come up with the wiring diagram for my preferred option.
I have e-mailed Steve (897sma) to ask him to have a look over it as you suggested.
If any other electrical boffins out there would like to check it out that would be appreciated
Thanks
Alan
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