Don't buy a Vantage needing a clutch doing...
Discussion
rancidswan said:
Great advice from lots of people here. My additional suggestions (based on doing a lot of this already) would be
1. Go for the V12 clutch, it'll last longer be easier to operate and is essentially no more expensive
2. You can save a huge amount on suspension by replacing stock with BC coilvers (£1200) I've just done this to mine, very happy with them so far
3. Don't ever buy AM 'boxed' disc brakes either yourself or through a dealer/specialist - you can find the Brembo part numbers on this forum and they're about £80 per disc.
Hope this helps
He’s already done the clutch .1. Go for the V12 clutch, it'll last longer be easier to operate and is essentially no more expensive
2. You can save a huge amount on suspension by replacing stock with BC coilvers (£1200) I've just done this to mine, very happy with them so far
3. Don't ever buy AM 'boxed' disc brakes either yourself or through a dealer/specialist - you can find the Brembo part numbers on this forum and they're about £80 per disc.
Hope this helps
And my experience of getting the discs using Brembo part numbers is they were nowhere near £80 each . I think I paid £600 for all 4 - still well cheaper than Aston wanted
Got my discs from Autodoc. James Appleby fitted them while doing the clutch
Showing circa £90 a pop I think. Doing this on my phone so may have found Ford Fiesta rotors
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/brake-disc-10132...
Showing circa £90 a pop I think. Doing this on my phone so may have found Ford Fiesta rotors
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/brake-disc-10132...
Riddochg said:
Got my discs from Autodoc. James Appleby fitted them while doing the clutch
Showing circa £90 a pop I think. Doing this on my phone so may have found Ford Fiesta rotors
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/brake-disc-10132...
Blimey , that is cheap .Showing circa £90 a pop I think. Doing this on my phone so may have found Ford Fiesta rotors
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/brake-disc-10132...
Op - firstly breathe. You haven't done anything wrong or different to the majority of people.
Insisting on a ppi would have likely not happened, assuming the seller knew about some of the work.
That said, I've had a 3 specialists look at my subframe. Plus my own garage. 2 said all ok, following the first doom and gloom.
The MOT..
How did it pass with hollow cars? Simple, run it through an emission test and you never know (unlikely) it might pass.
That said, you can report the MOT tester, but the other side, you've got 12 months of no cat v8v sound...
The clutch..well there is your reason for sale. Of course any seller (assuming this is private) would show you the benefits. Service history, specialist checks, mot...
What they don't usually say is they have had the recent list provided at the last service and offloaded the car ....
If I were you I'd use three categories.
First - essential. So everything you need to fix to be legal and or can't get away with.
Second - nice to have. So these are repairs that would be great, and maybe even cheaper to do with other work at the same time, but could otherwise wit 12 months +
Third - want. So this is the fun part. If the suspension needs to be changed, time for upgrade parts? Brakes, the same.. etc.
Then look at the lists and go from there.
Insisting on a ppi would have likely not happened, assuming the seller knew about some of the work.
That said, I've had a 3 specialists look at my subframe. Plus my own garage. 2 said all ok, following the first doom and gloom.
The MOT..
How did it pass with hollow cars? Simple, run it through an emission test and you never know (unlikely) it might pass.
That said, you can report the MOT tester, but the other side, you've got 12 months of no cat v8v sound...
The clutch..well there is your reason for sale. Of course any seller (assuming this is private) would show you the benefits. Service history, specialist checks, mot...
What they don't usually say is they have had the recent list provided at the last service and offloaded the car ....
If I were you I'd use three categories.
First - essential. So everything you need to fix to be legal and or can't get away with.
Second - nice to have. So these are repairs that would be great, and maybe even cheaper to do with other work at the same time, but could otherwise wit 12 months +
Third - want. So this is the fun part. If the suspension needs to be changed, time for upgrade parts? Brakes, the same.. etc.
Then look at the lists and go from there.
Mr Spoon said:
Insisting on a ppi would have likely not happened, assuming the seller knew about some of the work.
I guess there are a number of ways at looking at this, personally, if someone isn't willing to allow an inspection then the car should be walked away from. It points to a potential myriad of issues the seller is aware of. Of course, if you have a healthy reserve of funds sitting in an account to spend on putting things right it begs the question why a buyer wouldn't up the original spend to buy a better/more cared for car.The seller of the the car I ended up buying (specialist Porsche/Aston/Bentley) was happy for an inspection which immediately gives a buyer confidence.
Edited by BiggaJ on Wednesday 7th September 13:59
I bought my 07 Vantage 4 years ago privately without a specialist inspection. It was very low mileage and the seller had treasured the car, only bringing it out in good weather and used to show it. So guessed it should be Ok. I did put it up on a mates ramp before the purchase and all looked fine/very good. I still bump into the previous owner at least once a year and he still thinks I was very brave not getting it inspected even though he knew it was a very good car! I guess I was lucky as paid a lump less than at a dealer and saved on a warranty.
Its still on its first clutch at 27k and I expect to have to change it at some point. My drive is slightly up hill and I did reverse it in a couple of times when I first got it but twice I could smell the clutch so only ever take it in forwards now. I expect to have some big bills in the future but will offset by doing as much work as possible myself and buying parts outside of the AM network
Its still on its first clutch at 27k and I expect to have to change it at some point. My drive is slightly up hill and I did reverse it in a couple of times when I first got it but twice I could smell the clutch so only ever take it in forwards now. I expect to have some big bills in the future but will offset by doing as much work as possible myself and buying parts outside of the AM network
sheepdip said:
I bought my 07 Vantage 4 years ago privately without a specialist inspection. It was very low mileage and the seller had treasured the car, only bringing it out in good weather and used to show it. So guessed it should be Ok. I did put it up on a mates ramp before the purchase and all looked fine/very good. I still bump into the previous owner at least once a year and he still thinks I was very brave not getting it inspected even though he knew it was a very good car! I guess I was lucky as paid a lump less than at a dealer and saved on a warranty.
Its still on its first clutch at 27k and I expect to have to change it at some point. My drive is slightly up hill and I did reverse it in a couple of times when I first got it but twice I could smell the clutch so only ever take it in forwards now. I expect to have some big bills in the future but will offset by doing as much work as possible myself and buying parts outside of the AM network
Its still on its first clutch at 27k and I expect to have to change it at some point. My drive is slightly up hill and I did reverse it in a couple of times when I first got it but twice I could smell the clutch so only ever take it in forwards now. I expect to have some big bills in the future but will offset by doing as much work as possible myself and buying parts outside of the AM network
Excellent.
I can remember an occasional clutch smell, sometimes after returning from a 'spirited' drive. Have never had that aroma since the twin plate was fitted.
As you do your own work, do you know about the easy way to enhance the wonderful Vantage sound? I think it should be possible with your model year, unless you have already modified your car's exhaust.
Up to about 2010, I believe all Vantages only had one pair of catalytuc converters, ie.none in the manifolds.
If they look as those in this photo, there are two 'bricks' inside each (I think 900 and 400). Each one is either side of the central sensor mounting. You can now guess what to do. The result is the same sound, a little louder at tickover, louder on acceleration and with a couple of occasional pops, when lifting at high revs to change up.
Think the ECU needs a tweak too.
I paid, but reading that you do your own work, just thought I would mention a free mod. Not possible with later cars.
What year is the car? Post 12.25 MY have light-off cats in the headers. The O2 sensors are either side of these. They don't actually need the secondary cats to pass MOT or for OE emissions cal, hence some people remove the secondary cats completely or hollow them out for a bit of extra noise. That might explain the MOT pass?
Calinours said:
What year is the car? Post 12.25 MY have light-off cats in the headers. The O2 sensors are either side of these. They don't actually need the secondary cats to pass MOT or for OE emissions cal, hence some people remove the secondary cats completely or hollow them out for a bit of extra noise. That might explain the MOT pass?
Are you referring to Dave 'sheepdip' (2007 Vantage),
or Matt 'OP' (2006 4.3 V8V Coupe, in Tungsten Silver) [ref. OPs previous topic]?
Neither would have had cats in the manifiolds.
My uninformed guess, is that it was the Euro 5 emissions rules, that started the requirement for cats in manifolds.
'Euro 5 implementation date (new approvals): 1 September 2009 [presumably not the date applicable to current range cars at that time],
implementation date (all new registrations): 1 January 2011.'
For what it is worth, James sorted my clutch last year (2006 at around 80k miles). I said while you are at it do the subframe and cannot deny that led to a few extra bits needing attention and a bit of extra spend. However they kept me posted and did explain what had to be fixed. End result was a miles better driving experience and as I hope she’s a keeper I look at it as an investment. This year I’m getting some cosmetics sorted and then I’m hoping it’s just regular maintenance!
Not sure what your extensive list has to do with the clutch not being replaced. You could just now go and replace the clutch and sell the car on to another unsuspecting buyer. Same shopping list but it’s got a new clutch. Also my 06 car still has the original clutch at 55000 miles but it doesn’t need the rest of your shopping list as I’ve kept on top of the maintenance over the years. The clutch is good for over 100000 miles if not abused so I’ve no plan to change it yet.
Your mistake was that you didn’t get the car properly inspected. However looking on the bright side, they are all wear and tear items so once replaced you will have a superb car. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your car going forward.
Your mistake was that you didn’t get the car properly inspected. However looking on the bright side, they are all wear and tear items so once replaced you will have a superb car. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your car going forward.
As someone who also had their clutch replaced by James, just doing the clutch wasn't an option.
Whilst well looked after and regularly serviced its had a hard life as a daily driver on country lanes. James had to cut out so many bolts and lines that had rusted in. Needed a new oil cooler for that reason. Part of the exhaust more or less fell apart in his hands as he tried to unbolt it.
He could have put the subframe back on as it was, but given that a lot of cost is labour there's no real saving, if you are going to keep the car.
As previous poster said if its a keeper suck it up in the knowledge that its had a comprehensive overhaul. Mine drives like new now & this time it will be getting tucked up for the winter months!
Whilst well looked after and regularly serviced its had a hard life as a daily driver on country lanes. James had to cut out so many bolts and lines that had rusted in. Needed a new oil cooler for that reason. Part of the exhaust more or less fell apart in his hands as he tried to unbolt it.
He could have put the subframe back on as it was, but given that a lot of cost is labour there's no real saving, if you are going to keep the car.
As previous poster said if its a keeper suck it up in the knowledge that its had a comprehensive overhaul. Mine drives like new now & this time it will be getting tucked up for the winter months!
Riddochg said:
Got my discs from Autodoc. James Appleby fitted them while doing the clutch
Showing circa £90 a pop I think. Doing this on my phone so may have found Ford Fiesta rotors
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/brake-disc-10132...
Great find, just bought some front discs all in about £200 posted. Car booked in for annual service, MOT and fitment of new discs in a few weeks.Showing circa £90 a pop I think. Doing this on my phone so may have found Ford Fiesta rotors
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/brake-disc-10132...
Forgive me if I’m missing something
But what’s to say the specialist, whoever it is, didn’t advise the owner of this work and he just didn’t get it done? We often have customers who we will inform the car needs so and so etc, but they are under no obligation to do the work and often won’t. We’ve just turned away a car for the dreaded engine tick, and now I see that exact car for sale with another specialist.
We always say get a decent inspection done, not a mobile man but get it on a ramp. To buy privately and then be surprised to find extra work shouldn’t be a shock. As above, lots of cars have main dealer history or specialist history, but that’s does in no way mean the owner did everything the car required. They are sometimes £30k cars (I expect yours less) so when we quote a £5k bill to get some items fixed, it’s often seen that some customers won’t do it. It’s also why our invoices will always note unsafe items and will be highlighted, whether the customer wants them on there or not. All comes back to the original point, always get an inspection done or take a gamble.
P.S misting shocks are common, subframe corrosion even more so
But what’s to say the specialist, whoever it is, didn’t advise the owner of this work and he just didn’t get it done? We often have customers who we will inform the car needs so and so etc, but they are under no obligation to do the work and often won’t. We’ve just turned away a car for the dreaded engine tick, and now I see that exact car for sale with another specialist.
We always say get a decent inspection done, not a mobile man but get it on a ramp. To buy privately and then be surprised to find extra work shouldn’t be a shock. As above, lots of cars have main dealer history or specialist history, but that’s does in no way mean the owner did everything the car required. They are sometimes £30k cars (I expect yours less) so when we quote a £5k bill to get some items fixed, it’s often seen that some customers won’t do it. It’s also why our invoices will always note unsafe items and will be highlighted, whether the customer wants them on there or not. All comes back to the original point, always get an inspection done or take a gamble.
P.S misting shocks are common, subframe corrosion even more so
With regards to a pre purchase inspection how does this work practically? As I see it there are three different people involved:
Yourself - the buyer, the vendor and the inspector.
1: The car needs to be taken somewhere where there is a ramp which if the car is for sale nowhere near the pre purchase specialist that creates a mileage problem for the seller I assume?
2: My guess would be a sports car garage (that isn’t an Aston dealer) might not be too accommodating of the specialist doing the inspection at their premises?
3: An Aston main dealer wouldn’t entertain the idea full stop? But I guess that’s less of an issue because they provide a warranty anyway so the purchaser could get a post purchase inspection done within 14 days of buying the car and then if it needs work doing could go back and either return the car or get the dealer to do the work (provided the timeless warranty allows, which I have heard can be a bit hit or miss)
Like the OP I’ve watched lots and lots of the videos regarding Vantage buying on YouTube, done lots of research (and lots of saving!) and it’s always said to get a pre purchase inspection - which makes perfect sense especially when I hear stories like this which scare the bejesus out of me! But it just appears to be a bit of a logistical puzzle.
Yourself - the buyer, the vendor and the inspector.
1: The car needs to be taken somewhere where there is a ramp which if the car is for sale nowhere near the pre purchase specialist that creates a mileage problem for the seller I assume?
2: My guess would be a sports car garage (that isn’t an Aston dealer) might not be too accommodating of the specialist doing the inspection at their premises?
3: An Aston main dealer wouldn’t entertain the idea full stop? But I guess that’s less of an issue because they provide a warranty anyway so the purchaser could get a post purchase inspection done within 14 days of buying the car and then if it needs work doing could go back and either return the car or get the dealer to do the work (provided the timeless warranty allows, which I have heard can be a bit hit or miss)
Like the OP I’ve watched lots and lots of the videos regarding Vantage buying on YouTube, done lots of research (and lots of saving!) and it’s always said to get a pre purchase inspection - which makes perfect sense especially when I hear stories like this which scare the bejesus out of me! But it just appears to be a bit of a logistical puzzle.
Piston Ted said:
With regards to a pre purchase inspection how does this work practically? As I see it there are three different people involved:
I bought a very low mileage example from a main dealer, who had looked after the car from new.
Was therefore confident to satisfy myself by just looking as closely as possible at the condition of the inside and outside, then test drive. Just put trust in them and the warranty, for everything else. It was fine, not even anything to use the warranty for.
If I was buying an older car though, especially privately, I would certainly use an independent Aston Martin specialist to do an inspection. They are expensive cars when new, meaning repairs can be costly. The independents know the weak points and also would be in a position of acting impartially.
If the seller knows their car is good, then a prospective buying willing to pay for an inspection, might make them feel more confident of a sale.
Perhaps these videos might be of help to you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOb2LFyDeWs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYQrBFNWpek
Wonderful cars, especially if in perfect condition. There are many cosseted Aston Martins, so finding one should make you happy.
Good luck with your search.
Edited by Dewi 2 on Saturday 10th September 08:41
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