Fuse 22 remote switch fitted.
Discussion
The 5A rated is at 230V AC = 1.15KW which translated to 12V DC would equate to a constant load of over 95A!! This however is obviously not the whole story as we need to consider the speed at which the relay switches as arcing could be a potential issue longer term. I'll contact the manufacturers tomorrow to see what the safe switching load would be but from experience if a relay switches at 12A at 230V AC it will more than likely do the same at a much lower DC voltage ( depending on speed of switching and switching load).
BTW. Standby load is 14mA so it would take 12500 hours (a year and a half) to flatten a 200Ah battery.
BTW. Standby load is 14mA so it would take 12500 hours (a year and a half) to flatten a 200Ah battery.
triple5 said:
Alan, I’ve put this together although it would be good if 897sma/others could confirm as I’ve not actually got this unit myself.
Looking up the specs for the L26BK, Maplin rate it at 5A continuous/12A peak, I don’t know if yours will be the same, so have suggested a 10A fuse for the load. You could try a 5A and see if it’s enough.
For the +12v input to the L26BK you can either do as I’ve drawn, where it will take power from the supply side of fuse 22 (lower left hand slot on the add-a-circuit), or take a feed as 897sma shows in his pic, use an in-line fuse. If I've found the correct datasheet the max current drawn by the L26BK is 140ma, so although I've put a 1A on the drawing you could try and get a lower rated glass type.
On the Vantage the thick Red cable going into the fuse box is constant 12v (not IGN switched), so if you use that you will always be using a very small amount of power.
Steve (897sma) kindly sent me his L26BK remote switch as he no longer uses it.Looking up the specs for the L26BK, Maplin rate it at 5A continuous/12A peak, I don’t know if yours will be the same, so have suggested a 10A fuse for the load. You could try a 5A and see if it’s enough.
For the +12v input to the L26BK you can either do as I’ve drawn, where it will take power from the supply side of fuse 22 (lower left hand slot on the add-a-circuit), or take a feed as 897sma shows in his pic, use an in-line fuse. If I've found the correct datasheet the max current drawn by the L26BK is 140ma, so although I've put a 1A on the drawing you could try and get a lower rated glass type.
On the Vantage the thick Red cable going into the fuse box is constant 12v (not IGN switched), so if you use that you will always be using a very small amount of power.
So I am ready to modify the wiring as detailed above from Triple5 to suit the V8 Vantage.
Can anyone with car electrical knowledge confirm the above circuit diagram please?
Thanks
Alan
897sma said:
Hi Alan,
Glad it arrived safely. I'm not familiar with the add a circuit carrier, does it actually break the circuit and enable you to switch it or does it just add a circuit without effecting the other one. If so nothing will have changed in the fuse 22 circuit.
Hi Steve,Glad it arrived safely. I'm not familiar with the add a circuit carrier, does it actually break the circuit and enable you to switch it or does it just add a circuit without effecting the other one. If so nothing will have changed in the fuse 22 circuit.
The "add a circuit" basically plugs in to the fuse 22 slot in the fuse box.
The fuse removed from the fuse 22 slot plugs into the add a circuit and below this there are 2 connection ports to get another circuit connected
Here is a link to the "Add a circuit"
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Add-A-Circuit-Fuse-Tap...
The reason I am using this is to get power to the remote switch from the fuse box only when the car is running as opposed to getting power permanently from the fuse box feed.
Hope I have explained myself as I am a novice regarding circuits etc.
The circuit diagram on page 2 of this post Triple5 shows the circuit diagram clearer as well as the "add a circuit"
Regards
Alan
Edited by Beoon on Saturday 16th March 15:23
Fitted this today as per the first configuration.
Total cost of £12.00 and 30 minutes.
Many thanks for posting this originally.
Mark
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Regular-Blade-Fuse-T...
Total cost of £12.00 and 30 minutes.
Many thanks for posting this originally.
Mark
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Regular-Blade-Fuse-T...
MarkW34 said:
Fitted this today as per the first configuration.
Total cost of £12.00 and 30 minutes.
Many thanks for posting this originally.
Mark
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Regular-Blade-Fuse-T...
Good to hear Mark.Total cost of £12.00 and 30 minutes.
Many thanks for posting this originally.
Mark
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Regular-Blade-Fuse-T...
I've now found a better place for the remote, fits nicely in the strap in the drivers door pocket.
Allan
vtsx said:
hello !
Can someone help me by explaining that connect the ground connector ?
Perhaps with a picture ? (my english is very poor, I'm french, sorry...)
Hi vtsx, ground connection can be seen as below. It's the Black wire with the crimp connector, attached to the fuse box support bracket. Can someone help me by explaining that connect the ground connector ?
Perhaps with a picture ? (my english is very poor, I'm french, sorry...)
Hi Triple5.
Many thanks for the info. Just fitted my remote control Fuse 22. All seem to work OK. Just 1 question: Shoud you be able to hear the valves opening and closing? With ignition on, when I press green, I can hear a fast clicking (which stops after a few seconds) coming from under the car, when I press red, I hear a sound like the release of air, is this correct? Many thanks.
Many thanks for the info. Just fitted my remote control Fuse 22. All seem to work OK. Just 1 question: Shoud you be able to hear the valves opening and closing? With ignition on, when I press green, I can hear a fast clicking (which stops after a few seconds) coming from under the car, when I press red, I hear a sound like the release of air, is this correct? Many thanks.
FoxyGTO3R said:
Hi Triple5.
Many thanks for the info. Just fitted my remote control Fuse 22. All seem to work OK. Just 1 question: Shoud you be able to hear the valves opening and closing? With ignition on, when I press green, I can hear a fast clicking (which stops after a few seconds) coming from under the car, when I press red, I hear a sound like the release of air, is this correct? Many thanks.
Hi Foxy, I've not noticed that effect, the clicking noise could be the fuel pump.Many thanks for the info. Just fitted my remote control Fuse 22. All seem to work OK. Just 1 question: Shoud you be able to hear the valves opening and closing? With ignition on, when I press green, I can hear a fast clicking (which stops after a few seconds) coming from under the car, when I press red, I hear a sound like the release of air, is this correct? Many thanks.
The valves will be open at start up, even without the bypass switch fitted. If I get a chance over the weekend I'll check and see if I can hear the same.
Peers said:
Hello, i am a little bit confused. Can somebody give me the latest drawing for fuse 22 replacement with starts withbfuse working and the remote control switch opens the valves.
Your help is appreciated.
Peers
Hi Peers,Your help is appreciated.
Peers
Assuming you're using the Logisys unit then Option 2 here should be what you're after, you will need an additional relay.
I would suggest you wire it up on the bench first and check the operation with a DVM.
triple5 said:
Hi Peers,
Assuming you're using the Logisys unit then Option 2 here should be what you're after, you will need an additional relay.
I would suggest you wire it up on the bench first and check the operation with a DVM.
Just what I was after too got the bits from the sates arriving soon Assuming you're using the Logisys unit then Option 2 here should be what you're after, you will need an additional relay.
I would suggest you wire it up on the bench first and check the operation with a DVM.
triple5 said:
Hi Peers,
Assuming you're using the Logisys unit then Option 2 here should be what you're after, you will need an additional relay.
I would suggest you wire it up on the bench first and check the operation with a DVM.
Thank you I m not a specialist but your right its Logisys and Option 2. i will try and in case ask for your help again.Assuming you're using the Logisys unit then Option 2 here should be what you're after, you will need an additional relay.
I would suggest you wire it up on the bench first and check the operation with a DVM.
Your support is very much appreciated.
Peers
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