Fuse 22 remote switch fitted.

[triple5]

Fitted my remote switch today, using the Logisys RM02, £12 from ebay. I know that most say just leave the fuse out, but I like little projects like this
An alternative method is to hardwire a switch, but that will involve running wires which is not a big deal, but this method is very easy to install.

I had originally planned to wire it so that the default at start-up was valves operational, you would need an NC relay and a bit of extra wiring to do that, as the remote output switches back to zero volts when the IGN is switched off. However, after running with no fuse for a while, I’ve decided to go the more conventional route of default off, I can then switch the valves back on for stealth mode or just to exercise them occasionally.

You need the RM02 switch which comes with two remotes, and a full size fuse add-a-circuit. This goes into the fuse box in the boot. I’ve put a 15A fuse in there for now, which replaces the original 20A fuse 22 on my 2010 V8V.


The unit with all the wiring complete, the Black wires go to a suitable earth point, I used one of the fuse box mounting bolts. Don’t worry I placed it very carefully on the bonnet for the photo



Add-a-circuit in place, the White wire (return power) goes into the lower right hand fuse slot on the add-a-circuit. You will need to trim a standard male crimp connector to fit.



Wiring run to the rear of the fuse box, I cut a small slot in the lid to allow it to be refitted. The remote unit is tucked up behind the carpet trim.



The remote neatly slots into the arm rest, job done.

[triple5]

Thanks all

Maverick, it's very easy, all the parts are from ebay, my remote unit shipped from the USA without any problems. Just attach the Red/White and ground wires as above and that's it. The hardest part is cutting the slot in the lid of the fuse box.

I've attached a wiring diagram to help, although note in this picture the White wire is just pushed into the add-a-circuit for the pic. Blue wire is the antenna.
Allan

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Beoon said:

Thanks for the excellent write up, very interesting mod.
Is the fuse box shown in the photos from a V8 Vantage Roadster?
I have a V8VR and am interested in doing this mod.
Sorry for my ignorance but is my interpretation of your mod as follows correct?
When the car is started the remote switch is "open" ie equivalent to the fuse 22 out, this is the standard modification setup and when the remote control is blipped the remote switch goes to a closed state ie fuse in.
So standard setup is always equivalent of the fuse out.
The remote switch units only seem to be available as shipped from the USA on eBay?

Is the other option you mention on your write up much more complicated to wire?
This would be my preferred option
Ie standard setup is equivalent of the fuse in and the remote control switch is only used to launch theV8 "symphony" when required
Cheers
Alan

Hi Alan,
Mine is a V8V coupe, I don’t know if the Roadster box looks the same. I've only seen this kit in the USA, it does appear to be well made and the remotes do not look cheap like some.
Yes your interpretation is correct, default with the above is valves inoperable or “fuse out”. A lot of Corvette owners in the USA use this kit and they all use it the same way, in fact I couldn’t find anybody who has wired it the other way round.

I’ve drawn up a circuit which should work, although I must add I’ve not actually tried it, I would check it out with a meter before plugging it into the car. You will need a 5 pin relay also called a changeover relay, and use the NC contacts pins 30 and 87A. You will also need a second in-line fuse holder for the power to the relay.

When you start-up the circuit is still made or equivalent to “fuse in”, so the valves will operate normally, when you press ON, the switch will provide power via the White wire which will energise the coil and break the circuit, valves will be off.

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steveatesh said:

Excellent write up and idea Allan , may give it a go one day after I've fully recovered from fitting the dash cam! Steve.

Talking of which........got it sussed yet?

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Jon39 said:

Thank you Allan for posting. It is certainly a very neat way of controlling the valves.

I was just puzzled by your use of a 15 amp fuse, in place of the original 20 amp.

Was it simply that you had removed the original some time ago, and only had a 15 amp available to use?

A minor point, but I just wondered if there was an electrical reason for using the 15A.

Thanks Jon.

The RM02 is rated at 15A (switching current), so no point in fitting a higher rated fuse. If the fuse blows then that means the RM02 is not up to job, I don't expect that to happen.

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DB9VolanteDriver said:

You only need one 15A fuse...just move it to the other side of the node. As you have drawn it, you could draw a total of 30A from the circuit; not advisable when the original circuit is fused for 20A.

Not sure I agree as the RM02 will effectively be unfused.
However, it has made me take another look and would suggest lowering the fuse rating for the RM02. In this configuration the RM02 will not be drawing hardly any current as the relay will be doing all the work. I’ll update the drawing later, thanks.

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davidexige said:

I did a search for Logisys RB02 and it came up with a few, all in America though. Here's the cheapest one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...

That's the one, although it's RM02.

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DB9VolanteDriver said:

Not correct. Moving the fuse doesn't remove any protection to the RM02. It allows each device, the relay or the RM02, to draw a maximum of 15A, singly or combined.

Ok understood, drawing updated

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897sma said:

My very first post a year ago!

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Yes I think yours was one of the posts that made me have a go

It looks like you have tapped a constant supply for the remote, does that mean it's always on and therefore drawing current?

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Beoon said:

Allan the remote switch show on the post from a year ago uses one from Maplin.
The internal picture from the one at Maplin shows a common and NC contact, which is what you added to the default option I asked about.
Would you be able to combine your "Add a circuit fuse" which I like better than the wiring of the older post, but with the wiring going to a Maplin Remote switch giving the default option
of stealth mode and the remote switching it to loud mode.
I would work this out myself if I knew how to but my knowledge of electrical wiring is zilch.
I actually tried to buy the Paralight switch from an earlier post today but missed out on it my minutes.
The Paaralight kit gives me the default I am looking for, but I did notice the Remote control you get with the Paralight is identical to the
Maplin one, could be using the same Remote switch?

Edited by Beoon on Monday 4th March 21:00

I'll have a go at drawing something up tomorrow for you

[triple5]

Alan, I’ve put this together although it would be good if 897sma/others could confirm as I’ve not actually got this unit myself.

Looking up the specs for the L26BK, Maplin rate it at 5A continuous/12A peak, I don’t know if yours will be the same, so have suggested a 10A fuse for the load. You could try a 5A and see if it’s enough.

For the +12v input to the L26BK you can either do as I’ve drawn, where it will take power from the supply side of fuse 22 (lower left hand slot on the add-a-circuit), or take a feed as 897sma shows in his pic, use an in-line fuse. If I've found the correct datasheet the max current drawn by the L26BK is 140ma, so although I've put a 1A on the drawing you could try and get a lower rated glass type.

On the Vantage the thick Red cable going into the fuse box is constant 12v (not IGN switched), so if you use that you will always be using a very small amount of power.

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Beoon said:

Hi Allan,
Thanks very much for the time and trouble to come up with the wiring diagram for my preferred option.
I have e-mailed Steve (897sma) to ask him to have a look over it as you suggested.

If any other electrical boffins out there would like to check it out that would be appreciated

Thanks

Alan

You're welcome Alan, the more input the better.

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MarkW34 said:

Fitted this today as per the first configuration.

Total cost of £12.00 and 30 minutes.

Many thanks for posting this originally.

Mark

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15-AMP-Remote-Relay-...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Regular-Blade-Fuse-T...

Good to hear Mark.

I've now found a better place for the remote, fits nicely in the strap in the drivers door pocket.

Allan

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vtsx said:

hello !
Can someone help me by explaining that connect the ground connector ?
Perhaps with a picture ? (my english is very poor, I'm french, sorry...)

Hi vtsx, ground connection can be seen as below. It's the Black wire with the crimp connector, attached to the fuse box support bracket.

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FoxyGTO3R said:

Hi Triple5.
Many thanks for the info. Just fitted my remote control Fuse 22. All seem to work OK. Just 1 question: Shoud you be able to hear the valves opening and closing? With ignition on, when I press green, I can hear a fast clicking (which stops after a few seconds) coming from under the car, when I press red, I hear a sound like the release of air, is this correct? Many thanks.

Hi Foxy, I've not noticed that effect, the clicking noise could be the fuel pump.

The valves will be open at start up, even without the bypass switch fitted. If I get a chance over the weekend I'll check and see if I can hear the same.

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OK Foxy I've had a listen, and can hear the clicking noise you are referring to, it only goes for 3-4 sec and then stops. I can't hear any air sounds.

I've not noticed it before as I've not tried it with just the IGN on, presumably it's the vac pump working.

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Peers said:

Hello, i am a little bit confused. Can somebody give me the latest drawing for fuse 22 replacement with starts withbfuse working and the remote control switch opens the valves.
Your help is appreciated.
Peers

Hi Peers,
Assuming you're using the Logisys unit then Option 2 here should be what you're after, you will need an additional relay.
I would suggest you wire it up on the bench first and check the operation with a DVM.

[triple5]

No way of doing it that I know of.

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R8VBV said:

Anyone know where to get these wireless relay switch boxes from in the UK? All I can find is US ebay.

Mine came from Amazon UK but they don't seem to stock them anymore, looks like US may be your only option.