E92 sh*t itself - No ABS, DSC, FTM, Start assistance etc.
Discussion
Silverbullet767 said:
My thread has arrived! Mine has this fault.
Done alot of digging. My fault codes read by the Carly app were.
005DF0, Pump motor faulty
005DF1, Pump motor connector damaged
ABS warning on the dash, knocks out ABS, Stability control, Cruise control, start assist.
99% of the time with those codes, this is due to the pump motor brushes 'sticking' open, not making contact with the motor and throwing a code, a replacement unit from BMW is around £2500, but they can be repaired for just over £240 here.
http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/product/bmw_3_...
Only problem being you have to send your unit in and wait until it gets repaired before re-fitting, so your car will be off the road for a while. I'm sending mine in this week.
If your car is a 4 cylinder car they do a repair kit (consisting of the pump and the mechanical part) but curiously not for the 6 cyl. models. It's all or nothing.
Done alot of digging. My fault codes read by the Carly app were.
005DF0, Pump motor faulty
005DF1, Pump motor connector damaged
ABS warning on the dash, knocks out ABS, Stability control, Cruise control, start assist.
99% of the time with those codes, this is due to the pump motor brushes 'sticking' open, not making contact with the motor and throwing a code, a replacement unit from BMW is around £2500, but they can be repaired for just over £240 here.
http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/product/bmw_3_...
Only problem being you have to send your unit in and wait until it gets repaired before re-fitting, so your car will be off the road for a while. I'm sending mine in this week.
If your car is a 4 cylinder car they do a repair kit (consisting of the pump and the mechanical part) but curiously not for the 6 cyl. models. It's all or nothing.
To be fair, £2500 would include all labour at BMW rates, and replacing brake fluid etc. (Our 7 yo Z4 was £2300, though after BMW contribution, it actually cost us £700)
The pump etc is about £900 from BMW as I remember.
Still a good saving, especially if you can fit yourself. I didn't fancy the Z4, removing it via the inner wing etc! Not after being quoted the £700 anyway.
Swervin_Mervin said:
What re codes incipient? Are these different to normal fault codes logged?...
Yes, something like that - minor conditions that apparent, perhaps intermittent and so not (yet) logged as a fault / causing an engine management light.For example, on my B10 3.3 from time to time I get 'P1620' showing (which is a heated probe in the thermostat housing- not a dead thermostat as is often reported). And that's ok, the coolant meanwhile always runs to spec at 93-94degC all the time and has used no water in 30K miles: the occasional fault issomething I will fix but not essential. Might just be a flaky connector needs cleaning.
I can't speak for the problem you have but for £20-£25, why not have a play.
Huff said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
What re codes incipient? Are these different to normal fault codes logged?...
Yes, something like that - minor conditions that apparent, perhaps intermittent and so not (yet) logged as a fault / causing an engine management light.For example, on my B10 3.3 from time to time I get 'P1620' showing (which is a heated probe in the thermostat housing- not a dead thermostat as is often reported). And that's ok, the coolant meanwhile always runs to spec at 93-94degC all the time and has used no water in 30K miles: the occasional fault issomething I will fix but not essential. Might just be a flaky connector needs cleaning.
I can't speak for the problem you have but for £20-£25, why not have a play.
Beats problem hunting by replacing parts, and if it doesn't pick anything up I've only lost £20.
Username... said:
I just posted my experience of a similar situation in another discussion. Here's a copy and paste:
I had this issue on my E90 3 series. My symptoms being that DTC would occasionally cut in when driving on an incline. Eventually it got worse and for a short time I was able to get around it by switching DTC off, but that's not ideal in winter!
I suspected the wheel speed sensors to be at fault, so as the car is rear wheel drive I had a poke around there first. Sure enough, the face of one of the sensors had worn away matching the curvature of the reluctor ring on the drive shaft. The shaft showed some corrosion, so I thought perhaps this had caused the reluctor ring to expand until it made contact and wore the face of the sensor away.
BMW and local independents wanted several £££'s to supply new driveshafts, rings and sensors but as the car is 10 years old and has 150k miles on the clock I wasn't interested in spending that kind of money if I could help it.
@mikeyscott It seems weird to me that a garage would just fit a new sensor without any thought, because obviously in a very short amount of time the new sensor will wear and you will get the same fault. It's no wonder you're on your 3rd sensor!
The most cost effective solution seems to be this:
1. Buy new sensor.
2. On the body of both new and old sensors, use a vernier caliper measure distance between mounting face & sensor face. There will be a small difference due to wear on old sensor, let's say this is 1mm.
3. Install the new sensor, but use some shim (M5 washer may do) to space the sensor away by 1mm + 0.5mm additional clearance. This will ensure a gap of 0.5mm between sensor and ring.
4. Take it for a drive and after a short distance, the warning light should disappear.
This worked for me; the DTC works absolutely fine and I haven't had a warning light in 2 years. A year later the same fault happened but on the far side of the car and I fixed it again the very same way.
The cost is only the price of a new sensor and it takes less than an hour to fix.
The part you as describing is called a reluctor ring, and is a very common failure item. You can remove the half shaft fairly easily, cut off the old reluctor, and replace with a new one. Paint it up to stop it happening again, and away to go. About £50, plus any labour.I had this issue on my E90 3 series. My symptoms being that DTC would occasionally cut in when driving on an incline. Eventually it got worse and for a short time I was able to get around it by switching DTC off, but that's not ideal in winter!
I suspected the wheel speed sensors to be at fault, so as the car is rear wheel drive I had a poke around there first. Sure enough, the face of one of the sensors had worn away matching the curvature of the reluctor ring on the drive shaft. The shaft showed some corrosion, so I thought perhaps this had caused the reluctor ring to expand until it made contact and wore the face of the sensor away.
BMW and local independents wanted several £££'s to supply new driveshafts, rings and sensors but as the car is 10 years old and has 150k miles on the clock I wasn't interested in spending that kind of money if I could help it.
@mikeyscott It seems weird to me that a garage would just fit a new sensor without any thought, because obviously in a very short amount of time the new sensor will wear and you will get the same fault. It's no wonder you're on your 3rd sensor!
The most cost effective solution seems to be this:
1. Buy new sensor.
2. On the body of both new and old sensors, use a vernier caliper measure distance between mounting face & sensor face. There will be a small difference due to wear on old sensor, let's say this is 1mm.
3. Install the new sensor, but use some shim (M5 washer may do) to space the sensor away by 1mm + 0.5mm additional clearance. This will ensure a gap of 0.5mm between sensor and ring.
4. Take it for a drive and after a short distance, the warning light should disappear.
This worked for me; the DTC works absolutely fine and I haven't had a warning light in 2 years. A year later the same fault happened but on the far side of the car and I fixed it again the very same way.
The cost is only the price of a new sensor and it takes less than an hour to fix.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Straightforward. The half shaft is bolted into a stub shaft into the diff. Remove the 6 male torx bolts. With the wheel on the ground, remove the nut on the CV joint. Fiddle the half shaft off the coupling, and gently tap (ha) the half shaft out of the hub. About 45 minutes if you can get the car in the air. The LHS one is harder due to the exhaust, and it's prob easier to drop the exhaust off its hangers.tk-zvw26 said:
Hi there,
Had the brake light, abs light and dtc light come on 2 weeks ago........I am assuming it the same issue stated here...but how long can i drive the car in this state without doing much or any damage?
You are driving without ABS & Traction Control, so it just depends upon when/if you throw it into a corner too fast really.Had the brake light, abs light and dtc light come on 2 weeks ago........I am assuming it the same issue stated here...but how long can i drive the car in this state without doing much or any damage?
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