E91 Straight Six Bearding

[The Li-ion King]

Mike335i said:

stevesuk said:

Thanks.. I do have a diagnostic cable somewhere, will try and read the fault code. So long as it’s not the ABS/DSC pump, I’d be fairly happy to pay for a wheel speed sensor.

Fingers crossed for you

When I had my E91 325d Touring, my ABS pump started playing up like this... cleared faults off, but they kept coming back. PMW in Chelmsford was a great garage which helped me source a replacement pump.

[MajorMantra]

g3org3y said:

Code check today:

DME [DIGITAL MOTOR ELECTRONICS]
2A82 Vanos Intake

Originally had both 2A82 Vanos intake and 2A87 Exhaust Vanos Mechanism but I cleared the codes and then drove the car. The 2A82 reappeared.

Other ones, not relevant (I think)
SGM-zGM [SAFETY & GATEWAY MODULE]
A6CF AUC Sensor

FRM [FOOTWELL MODULE]
9CB4 Ride Height sensor rear faulty

So is this the (intake) Vanos Solenoid that is causing the issue?

Looking back at the SH, in Dec 2017 it had an EML light on. At the time they replaced the exhaust and inlet CAM sensor and the battery.

For some reason, I thought the previous owner had done the Vanos Solenoids as well but I can't seem to find it in the SH.

From reading around the subject, sounds like it's worth getting it out and trying to clean it before considering replacement.

If replacing, go for OEM (~£100) or is aftermarket (~£30) ok?

Edited by g3org3y on Wednesday 24th July 23:47

As detailed some pages back I went with the cheap aftermarket ones (paid £35-40 IIRC) and it cured the "timing over-retarded" code I was getting. Sounds like you've got a different code, but if you go aftermarket it's a cheap and easy DIY. Worst case you can always put the old ones back in, they only take about 10 minutes to change!

[13aines]

I seem to remember some talk in here before about dampers, lower arm kits etc.

I wrote recently that my E92 335i needs a new front damper. There is also a horrible clunk on steering lock now - seized top mount bearing? As expected, it doesn't turn in as well now, and isn't handling great. It's feeling quite baggy and tired now. Has done 116k though. May have had parts replaced in the past though - I am missing a lot of service history.

I am thinking about going the whole hog and replacing both dampers, springs, top mounts, and fitting a full new lower arm kit, with anti-roll bar droplinks and steering tie rods.

Any recommendations for parts suppliers and manufacturers?

Current thoughts after a quick search:

1) Springs from BMW (want the correct rate - certainly no stiffer)
2) Bilstein B4 dampers (eBay £200)
3) Lemforder top mounts (eBay £60)
4) Meyle lower arm kit (eBay £300)

[helix402]

I’d go for a gen BMW set of lower arms. Or Lemforder. I’ve seen too many low quality bushes from Meyle.

[hughcam]

My 335i Touring (manual) is on the popular auction site at the moment. Quaife LSD fitted by Birds too. 2 years of happy ownership but I fancy a change - if anyone is interested let me know

[snake_oil]

I've just spotted this one. 142k but it's a manual and very keenly priced I reckon.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...

Nice motor!

[JakeT]

The LSD is meant to work very nicely with the DSC too. Doesn't need to be off or re-calibrated for the diff, just works. Almost like BMW were going to give the 335i an LSD in the first place...

From the VIN it looks like a very early one too. Nice!

[ferrisbueller]

Been looking at an issue which is a new one on me.

Bulb warning indicator on dash. All lights working (need get confirmation that includes number plates, interior lights etc). Go into OBC>Check Control>Bulb warning. Hold the BC button. Get code CC ID 372.

When I've searched for this it's for a brake force indication (which needs to be programmed in) bulb which illuminates the fog light in addition to the brake light under heavy braking - so it's in the fog lamp cluster.

Removed bulbs, all OK. Swapped bulbs side to side, Fault code stays. Swapped cluster side to side, Fault code stays. That would suggest a wiring issue somewhere which seems random, or maybe a software issue. Because everything works it's not a safety concern but I couldn't advise whether it's an MOT failure.

Any insight into the issue and the MOT question gratefully received.

ETA. Apologies, should have added this: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159...

I'll hopefully get a chance to remove the holders and give the pins a tweak tomorrow but would have thought swapping the cluster to the right would have given a corresponding chang in CC ID.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Friday 2nd August 21:02

[helix402]

Fault may be due to a faulty FRM module.

[ferrisbueller]

helix402 said:

Fault may be due to a faulty FRM module.

I've seen it mentioned, how would it be diagnosed please?

Also pondering a battery swap so need to check for IBS.

[JakeT]

You could use NCSExpert, Carly, et al to code the warning off. If you know the bulbs are working I’d do that. Did it on a friends E92 with random.

[ferrisbueller]

Ref. Battery.



Normally I'd be down to Halfrauds for a Bosch replacement. Seems they do Yuasa as their own brand alternative.

If the new battery is the same 70Ah/570 does that negate the coding requirements? (Assuming it has IBS fitted, which hasn't been checked yet).

[MajorMantra]

There was a pretty detailed discussion on batteries and coding a few pages back, might be worth searching.

FWIW I fitted one of these to my 06 non-IBS car and did nothing else, and it's been fine:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191537689545

[ferrisbueller]

Thanks, will have another look.

No IBS so opens up a few options. The internal battery health indicator is green but had a couple of blips which could be associated so worth changing it to prevent other electrical gremlins.

[Swervin_Mervin]

Been giving the car a cosmetic spruce. I last detailed it about 6yrs ago and it looked great until it went for an alignment a few years ago and they stuck it through the car wash. Cue massive swirls

Anyway, new plates acquired and I decided to lose the front plate frame. Car fully clayed, half of it polished with a heavy cut, but bonnet and wings fully 2-stage polished and waxed. Didn't bother polishing the front bumper as it's pretty shagged tbh.

Still. Not too bad looking for 13yo and 122k

[g3org3y]

MajorMantra said:

As detailed some pages back I went with the cheap aftermarket ones (paid £35-40 IIRC) and it cured the "timing over-retarded" code I was getting. Sounds like you've got a different code, but if you go aftermarket it's a cheap and easy DIY. Worst case you can always put the old ones back in, they only take about 10 minutes to change!

I ended up going down the OEM route from the Cotswold BMW eBay. At £104, notable mark up from the other ebay aftermarket options but I've had issues with cheaper sensors going bad after a short period of time so thought might as well do it properly.

OEM Part Number: 11367585425

Fingers crossed this OEM item will solve the Vanos Intake (2A82) problem.

Edited by g3org3y on Sunday 11th August 13:38

[g3org3y]

Swervin_Mervin said:

Been giving the car a cosmetic spruce. I last detailed it about 6yrs ago and it looked great until it went for an alignment a few years ago and they stuck it through the car wash. Cue massive swirls

Anyway, new plates acquired and I decided to lose the front plate frame. Car fully clayed, half of it polished with a heavy cut, but bonnet and wings fully 2-stage polished and waxed. Didn't bother polishing the front bumper as it's pretty shagged tbh.

Still. Not too bad looking for 13yo and 122k

Looks great. I think the E91 in particular with M Sport trim still looks very modern. Everyone is very surprised when I mention ours is getting on for 13 years old!

[bmwmike]

g3org3y said:

I ended up going down the OEM route from the Cotswold BMW eBay. At £104, notable mark up from the other ebay aftermarket options but I've had issues with cheaper sensors going bad after a short period of time so thought might as well do it properly.

OEM Part Number: 11367585425

Replaced today and on taking the old one out, although it was BMW stamped, it had a different part number:
- 13150350 & 1136751623

Neither part number comes up on RealOEM (so not genuine) and in fact searching for the second number it comes up with a link to Alibaba!

Fingers crossed this OEM item will solve the Vanos Intake (2A82) problem.

2yr warranty with the BMW part makes it worthwhile imo.

[ferrisbueller]

g3org3y said:

MajorMantra said:

As detailed some pages back I went with the cheap aftermarket ones (paid £35-40 IIRC) and it cured the "timing over-retarded" code I was getting. Sounds like you've got a different code, but if you go aftermarket it's a cheap and easy DIY. Worst case you can always put the old ones back in, they only take about 10 minutes to change!

I ended up going down the OEM route from the Cotswold BMW eBay. At £104, notable mark up from the other ebay aftermarket options but I've had issues with cheaper sensors going bad after a short period of time so thought might as well do it properly.

OEM Part Number: 11367585425

Replaced today and on taking the old one out, although it was BMW stamped, it had a different part number:
- 13150350 & 1136751623

Neither part number comes up on RealOEM (so not genuine) and in fact searching for the second number it comes up with a link to Alibaba!

Fingers crossed this OEM item will solve the Vanos Intake (2A82) problem.

Was that £104 for the pair?

[g3org3y]

ferrisbueller said:

Was that £104 for the pair?

No, each.

Not cheap especially when it appears you can get an aftermarket pair for about a quarter of the price.