Z3 Specifc questions
Discussion
Ayup Stu how's it going, that supercharger of yours still singing away.
One thing I need to correct you on is that the M52TU engine actually came out in the Z3 in October '98 when a not well known mini facelift occurred which was more mechanical than anything.
To the other people on here just discoverring the Z3 it is very much one of those cars that you thought you would never own but admired from a distance only to find out in later life they are very much within your reach and once hooked you will never turn back. When you get chance search for Z3 roadster forums and you will find some excellent sites which are crammed pack full of information for prospective buyers so come along and join in the fun that Z3's are.
Oh and whilst the 2.8 does come with a LSD it is the Torsion type which sometimes catches people out as it behaves like a normal diff (ie. wheels turn in oposite directions when off the floor) but locks up traction is lost on one wheel. Other non ///M Z's also cam with this type of diff mainly later models but it is only the ///M that came with the more conventional wet plate type LSD.
One thing I need to correct you on is that the M52TU engine actually came out in the Z3 in October '98 when a not well known mini facelift occurred which was more mechanical than anything.
To the other people on here just discoverring the Z3 it is very much one of those cars that you thought you would never own but admired from a distance only to find out in later life they are very much within your reach and once hooked you will never turn back. When you get chance search for Z3 roadster forums and you will find some excellent sites which are crammed pack full of information for prospective buyers so come along and join in the fun that Z3's are.
Oh and whilst the 2.8 does come with a LSD it is the Torsion type which sometimes catches people out as it behaves like a normal diff (ie. wheels turn in oposite directions when off the floor) but locks up traction is lost on one wheel. Other non ///M Z's also cam with this type of diff mainly later models but it is only the ///M that came with the more conventional wet plate type LSD.
Edited by aceman99 on Sunday 5th February 22:08
Thanks for the info...one final question (for now 
). I've tried to get some online quotes, but as is typical for insurance companies they want to pigeon hole me rather than do the quote as a 'classic car' that doesn't require no claims bonus. Anyone recommend an insurance company that would cover a Z3 as a classic, say, 3000/5000 miles a year as I have a company car and I'm also on my OH's Mini insurance policy too?
). I've tried to get some online quotes, but as is typical for insurance companies they want to pigeon hole me rather than do the quote as a 'classic car' that doesn't require no claims bonus. Anyone recommend an insurance company that would cover a Z3 as a classic, say, 3000/5000 miles a year as I have a company car and I'm also on my OH's Mini insurance policy too? OldSkoolRS said:
Thanks for the info...one final question (for now ). I've tried to get some online quotes, but as is typical for insurance companies they want to pigeon hole me rather than do the quote as a 'classic car' that doesn't require no claims bonus. Anyone recommend an insurance company that would cover a Z3 as a classic, say, 3000/5000 miles a year as I have a company car and I'm also on my OH's Mini insurance policy too?
Why would you expect classic policy for the Z3?). I've tried to get some online quotes, but as is typical for insurance companies they want to pigeon hole me rather than do the quote as a 'classic car' that doesn't require no claims bonus. Anyone recommend an insurance company that would cover a Z3 as a classic, say, 3000/5000 miles a year as I have a company car and I'm also on my OH's Mini insurance policy too? rottie102 said:
Why would you expect classic policy for the Z3?
Some companies will cover cars over 10 years old on a classic policy, so the 1998 one I'm interested in would qualify. As classic policies don't usually require any no claims I don't have to get into that having driven a company car for the last 10 years or more (though I could get a letter from HR if necessary). Also, I have a CC with personal use and my OH has me on her car's insurance, so it's hardly my main car.Edited by OldSkoolRS on Sunday 5th February 23:50
Guys, I would back off linking other sites on here and stick to answering questions unless you want the wrath of Mr. Garlic to fallupon you.
So back to the last couple of q's, yes the z does now get classed as classic by some insurers. We're insured via Glux, but under their modified scheme. Not had any issues with them really.
Ace, cars going fine, but not used as much now we have a 2 year old.
So back to the last couple of q's, yes the z does now get classed as classic by some insurers. We're insured via Glux, but under their modified scheme. Not had any issues with them really.
Ace, cars going fine, but not used as much now we have a 2 year old.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Looks like the seal on the third brakelight has failed on that one, as indicated by the water stains in the boot. It's a common problem and easy to fix though, the OEM gasket is about £6 from a BMW dealer. When I bought my Z3 the boot carpet was the same, discovered both wells on the left and the right of the boot filled with 6 inches of water. Nothing a bit of bog roll to soak it up and a new gasket didn't sort though 
Talking of parts, they're still fully available from BMW and often not too expensive which makes fixing little annoying things like worn door handle seals etc really easy. Two sites you need for parts, RealOEM, and Cooper BMW:
For part numbers: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=CJ32&a...
For parts: http://www.cooper-bmw-parts.co.uk
Good luck on the Z3 hunt!
So I am going to see the silver Z3 listed above tonight
From reading the thread, things to look out for
Vanos noise (which is a tappety type noise?) if this noise is apparent but calms down after a few minutes then it is likely to be lifters?
How much would either of those cost me to fix
Will obviously check the other usual items
I will check the 3rd brake light and the boot floor for dampness from that and also check under the boot carpet for cracks
Anything else apart from normal second hand car checks?
From reading the thread, things to look out for
Vanos noise (which is a tappety type noise?) if this noise is apparent but calms down after a few minutes then it is likely to be lifters?
How much would either of those cost me to fix
Will obviously check the other usual items
I will check the 3rd brake light and the boot floor for dampness from that and also check under the boot carpet for cracks
Anything else apart from normal second hand car checks?
Ok so I went to see the car tonight and I am more confused than ever
Firstly the actual car I saw
Had the following faults
Boot Struts dont hold boot
Some sort of glove compartment thing about halfway up the back? Had a cover missing
Both window motors really struggle
The roof motor seem ok as it popped it back up with no issue, but opening the roof was a bit harder as it didnt want to seem to fold down, maybe stiff?
The mileage display was dim on one side of the miles
A tear in the rear window
I noticed some wind noise at about 70 on the dual carriageway, roof not shut properly or window? It was right by my right ear
The drive itself I noticed as I was coming off the clutch the engine was reving like I was still pressing the loud pedal, sticky accelerator or crap driver?
The gear stick didnt feel hugely precise although I never had an issue finding a gear, this could be my MPS fault though as that is a very precise change
Also on a couple of bumpy roads it didnt feel as planted as the Mazda which admittedly is a bit crashy but it seemed to bounce a bit?
Now the good points
The engine felt perfect, pulled smoothly all the way
The guy said all the faults will be fixed, obviously the window would be replaced but would it be possible to bodge jobs on the window motors boot etc? Or would he have to do a proper job?
I generally liked being in the car, the power delivery was less urgent than the Mazda and was more of a constant locomotive pull and the sound, how I had missed that sound
It feels like a bit of a brute, rather than an out and out sports car but I know from the E30 that you can easily learn how to throw them about, are they at all chuckable?
Seeing those arches in the rearview was lovely
Driving position was nice once I had adjusted it
The seats were nice but yeah a bit slidy
So I just dont know I think I need to test drive another one and compare
Firstly the actual car I saw
Had the following faults
Boot Struts dont hold boot
Some sort of glove compartment thing about halfway up the back? Had a cover missing
Both window motors really struggle
The roof motor seem ok as it popped it back up with no issue, but opening the roof was a bit harder as it didnt want to seem to fold down, maybe stiff?
The mileage display was dim on one side of the miles
A tear in the rear window
I noticed some wind noise at about 70 on the dual carriageway, roof not shut properly or window? It was right by my right ear
The drive itself I noticed as I was coming off the clutch the engine was reving like I was still pressing the loud pedal, sticky accelerator or crap driver?
The gear stick didnt feel hugely precise although I never had an issue finding a gear, this could be my MPS fault though as that is a very precise change
Also on a couple of bumpy roads it didnt feel as planted as the Mazda which admittedly is a bit crashy but it seemed to bounce a bit?
Now the good points
The engine felt perfect, pulled smoothly all the way
The guy said all the faults will be fixed, obviously the window would be replaced but would it be possible to bodge jobs on the window motors boot etc? Or would he have to do a proper job?
I generally liked being in the car, the power delivery was less urgent than the Mazda and was more of a constant locomotive pull and the sound, how I had missed that sound
It feels like a bit of a brute, rather than an out and out sports car but I know from the E30 that you can easily learn how to throw them about, are they at all chuckable?
Seeing those arches in the rearview was lovely
Driving position was nice once I had adjusted it
The seats were nice but yeah a bit slidy
So I just dont know I think I need to test drive another one and compare
anonymous said:
[redacted]
To be fair it's a 13 year old car, so although it looks a lot written down, apart from the noisy roof/window split and slow windows (which might just need some lubrication) non of it seems too major or impacts on actually driving the car. I think we have to expect to do some fettling on a car of that age and price.anonymous said:
[redacted]
This might help regarding the clutch issue as then you'll know if it's typical (and you just need to adjust your technique) or whether it's slipping (which might be a bit expensive unless the dealer will sort it out for you. Likewise the gearchange and possibly handling (though what I've read seems to suggest that standard models aren't that sharp handling wise, plus 80,000 miles on the suspension will have taken it's toll).Edited by OldSkoolRS on Thursday 9th February 22:51
What is interesting is that thats close to what I thought and found when I saw that new one.
Sticky throttle - I also initially thought maybe it was some weird DBW nuance, but it turns out they are cable throttles, and that clearly many of them have very sticky, stiff, slow pedals. This is surely a piece of piss to fix, even if its a new cable required. Just the kind of thing that a non-petrolhead might no notice.
Gearchange is a bit agricultural - again coming from a car with a rifle-bolt change I think its just what there like, a bit wooly. Short shift kit sounds like it must be one of the first things to change in these cars!?
I personally wouldnt be bothered by things like the windows etc, if your at all mechanical then they will surely be easy to sort? and things like that are cracking bargaining tools.
I like how you describe the drive as being a bit brutish, matches what I thought. Old fashioned, needs a bit of man-handling. I liked that!
RE the windnoise - have you ridden in many cabrios before? I thought the one I went in was quite good for windnoise with the roof up, the roof seemed to be double skinned too which was nice. Perhaps there are some windwo alignment issues to be looked at, I know that can work on MX-5's.
Good luck with your search!
Sticky throttle - I also initially thought maybe it was some weird DBW nuance, but it turns out they are cable throttles, and that clearly many of them have very sticky, stiff, slow pedals. This is surely a piece of piss to fix, even if its a new cable required. Just the kind of thing that a non-petrolhead might no notice.
Gearchange is a bit agricultural - again coming from a car with a rifle-bolt change I think its just what there like, a bit wooly. Short shift kit sounds like it must be one of the first things to change in these cars!?
I personally wouldnt be bothered by things like the windows etc, if your at all mechanical then they will surely be easy to sort? and things like that are cracking bargaining tools.
I like how you describe the drive as being a bit brutish, matches what I thought. Old fashioned, needs a bit of man-handling. I liked that!
RE the windnoise - have you ridden in many cabrios before? I thought the one I went in was quite good for windnoise with the roof up, the roof seemed to be double skinned too which was nice. Perhaps there are some windwo alignment issues to be looked at, I know that can work on MX-5's.
Good luck with your search!
I haven't ever been in a cabrio before so that may explain it
I agree that all the issues with that car are easily fixable, my concern is mainly the lights on the dash being a bit borked as that I assume is a dash out job and the fact that these things haven't be repaired already, the chap seemed certain he would fix them once the car was sold, I dont get that
Anyway by way of comparison I am hopefully seeing this one tonight
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
Slightly out of my budget but looking at the weather they may accept a cheeky offer and I can see the difference in the cars
I agree that all the issues with that car are easily fixable, my concern is mainly the lights on the dash being a bit borked as that I assume is a dash out job and the fact that these things haven't be repaired already, the chap seemed certain he would fix them once the car was sold, I dont get that
Anyway by way of comparison I am hopefully seeing this one tonight
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
Slightly out of my budget but looking at the weather they may accept a cheeky offer and I can see the difference in the cars
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Sticking windows are a common fault, easy to fix with silicon lubricant. The window is in two rubber tracks which can dry up and cause the problem you describe.Dim mileage display is one of the bulbs behind the dials, about £1.50 from a dealer but it's dash off to fix.
Tear in rear window will set you back £120-£200 depending on whether you fit it yourself or not, from what I've read it can be a bit of a pain in the arse to do yourself as it's zipped in tightly.
The cabin noise at speed could be caused by a few things, the roof can come away from the tension wires effectively creating a hole, worth checking as a new roof is £600+. It could also be caused by misadjustment of the hooks which lock the roof at the front causing a bad seal.
All in all, I'd probably look at some more, as said above it does seem like the one you went to see has been through the wars a bit.
Another thing to look out for that I don't think has been mentioned yet is the wing mirror bases are prone to corrosion as water can build up in the joint between the mirror and the mirror base. This is what a particularly bad one looks like (mine when I bought it
)http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h114/XVar/Z3/old...
OP - I was in your position last year and looked at 3.0l at the higher end of the price bracket and 2.8l at the lower end and some modified ones. I ended up buying a car with allot of (costly) mods + hardtop on it at a good price - see my profile for the full list.
There is allot of good info posted already so will try and add to that.
I had a 330 and they do like a drink of oil and the 2.8 can be modified with a changed intake manifold and some other mods to be near as powerful for less than it costs to buy a 3.0l (and yes, the 3.0 likes a drink of expensive oil).
For me the power is plenty, especially on wet/cold roads. In the dry it is like a kart and the rubbish flat seats are pain as you slide about. I have fitted a CG lock and a seat recline mod from a forum member on bimmerforums in the US. The seat is now tilted a bit back which helps you stay in it but the lack of lateral support is still there. The sports seats look better but people with M cars complain it is still not enough. I would love some Recaros at some point.
Gearshift - BMW gearshifts are just plain crap if you are used to Hondas/Mazdas. Even my previous Honda people carrier with a dash mounted stick had a cleaner shift but that is just how BMW shifts are. My shortened gearnkob makes a huge difference so I would highly recommend that as the standard stick is long and rubbery. New gearbox oil apparently helps a bit too. I have read about replacing the bushings inside the gearbox as they expand over time but it is expensive as it laborious. To be fair, you don't change gears in the same manner you would if it were a MX-5 or Vtec Honda so it not such a hindrance and does feel like a 'mans' car, especially when cold. How a hairdresser could ever find 1st on cold morning in one of these is beyond me so the hairdressers must have all had autos...
LSD- all the 2.8 and 3.0 have them and what a joy it is to have a lsd - wish my 330i had a lsd...
The LSD oil needs changing at some point but not a major job.
Cooling system - the 2.8 (not sure about the 3.0) has a plastic water pump impeller that can break with age so you want to try and find one with a metal impeller or change it yourself as if it fails can cause overheating.
Wind noise- mine has a replacement top and seals so is fresh but still has some wind noise around the top corner just behind your head, especially over60mph. This can be cured with lots of rubber conditioning spray and ensuring the windows are adjusted to the correct height and making a good seal with the rubber. These cars are known to be a bit noisy in terms of wind noise compared with the like of TT/SLK.
Wobbly seat - all Z3 suffer from this eventually - it is a cheap fix (20USD for teh bushes) but involved removing the seat to replace the plastic bushes to stop teh wobble - just google Doug Whalen seat bushes and you will see some you tube clips on how to do it. I will do mine when the weather warms up...
Hardtop - I nice extra but not essential (for me in the tropical south east at least!). It makes the car stiffer, quieter and more refined and gives you a glass rear window with demister but I have yet to use it as I am addicted to getting the hood down as much as possible and dressing like a Russian with the heater on full blast! If it has hardtop make sure it has the hardtop fitting kit as without the kit you cannot mount the hardtop and apparently these kits are now very expensive.
If I were you I would look for one owned by an enthusiast who has made good mods like suspension and exhaust. You may have to wait a while though otherwise get a nice standard one and make sure you get a decent exhaust fitted straight away. Hood up or down it really makes the car and lets you forgive the foibles it has.
Have a look on the Z3 section of bimmerforums as the US crowd love their mods and they have loads of info and great ideas about improving performance and looks. It gets addictive and seriously wallet busting once you start though..
There is allot of good info posted already so will try and add to that.
I had a 330 and they do like a drink of oil and the 2.8 can be modified with a changed intake manifold and some other mods to be near as powerful for less than it costs to buy a 3.0l (and yes, the 3.0 likes a drink of expensive oil).
For me the power is plenty, especially on wet/cold roads. In the dry it is like a kart and the rubbish flat seats are pain as you slide about. I have fitted a CG lock and a seat recline mod from a forum member on bimmerforums in the US. The seat is now tilted a bit back which helps you stay in it but the lack of lateral support is still there. The sports seats look better but people with M cars complain it is still not enough. I would love some Recaros at some point.
Gearshift - BMW gearshifts are just plain crap if you are used to Hondas/Mazdas. Even my previous Honda people carrier with a dash mounted stick had a cleaner shift but that is just how BMW shifts are. My shortened gearnkob makes a huge difference so I would highly recommend that as the standard stick is long and rubbery. New gearbox oil apparently helps a bit too. I have read about replacing the bushings inside the gearbox as they expand over time but it is expensive as it laborious. To be fair, you don't change gears in the same manner you would if it were a MX-5 or Vtec Honda so it not such a hindrance and does feel like a 'mans' car, especially when cold. How a hairdresser could ever find 1st on cold morning in one of these is beyond me so the hairdressers must have all had autos...
LSD- all the 2.8 and 3.0 have them and what a joy it is to have a lsd - wish my 330i had a lsd...
The LSD oil needs changing at some point but not a major job.
Cooling system - the 2.8 (not sure about the 3.0) has a plastic water pump impeller that can break with age so you want to try and find one with a metal impeller or change it yourself as if it fails can cause overheating.
Wind noise- mine has a replacement top and seals so is fresh but still has some wind noise around the top corner just behind your head, especially over60mph. This can be cured with lots of rubber conditioning spray and ensuring the windows are adjusted to the correct height and making a good seal with the rubber. These cars are known to be a bit noisy in terms of wind noise compared with the like of TT/SLK.
Wobbly seat - all Z3 suffer from this eventually - it is a cheap fix (20USD for teh bushes) but involved removing the seat to replace the plastic bushes to stop teh wobble - just google Doug Whalen seat bushes and you will see some you tube clips on how to do it. I will do mine when the weather warms up...
Hardtop - I nice extra but not essential (for me in the tropical south east at least!). It makes the car stiffer, quieter and more refined and gives you a glass rear window with demister but I have yet to use it as I am addicted to getting the hood down as much as possible and dressing like a Russian with the heater on full blast! If it has hardtop make sure it has the hardtop fitting kit as without the kit you cannot mount the hardtop and apparently these kits are now very expensive.
If I were you I would look for one owned by an enthusiast who has made good mods like suspension and exhaust. You may have to wait a while though otherwise get a nice standard one and make sure you get a decent exhaust fitted straight away. Hood up or down it really makes the car and lets you forgive the foibles it has.
Have a look on the Z3 section of bimmerforums as the US crowd love their mods and they have loads of info and great ideas about improving performance and looks. It gets addictive and seriously wallet busting once you start though..
Thanks to this thread and another site dedicated to Zroadsters, I took the pluge today and paid the deposit on a tidy Z3 3.0 2001/Y plate 66k miles with FSH, recently serviced, new tyres and in my prefered colour of metallic blue with black leather interior. I started out wanting a blue 2.8/3.0 so I'm pleased that I've managed to find one without too much hassle.
I looked at 8 cars this weekend and it boiled down to one of three:
1. A really tidy 1.9 Silver private sale with history from BMW specialists and very little to betray it's 89,000 miles. Up for £2,700 with a fresh MOT and 6 months tax only the smaller engine and green leather interior slightly put me off. It had heated seats, aircon and an electric roof which all worked correctly. The guy took me on a really long test drive (I had no insurance so couldn't drive) so no worries about how it went. If it's in your area (Ash near Farnborough) and you're looking for a 1.9 it's well worth a look. I drove another 1.9 and despite the smaller engine it was still fun to thrash along with the roof off, so I was thinking I'd maybe just spend the least I could to get a roof down car...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
(I used the postcode for AshVale church BTW).
2. A metallic red 2.2 62K at a dealer in Uxbridge. BMW history early on changing to BMW specialists in later years. Pretty much unmarked save for very light surface marks on the rear wings that I know would polish (ie not even compound) out, but I still used it to haggle over. It had one odd tyre on the back which was disspointing, but this could have been changed to match the other rear I guess. I could have had it for £4,440 with a full year's tax put on (£240 for this model/age as it's just over the March 2001 change over). Very nearly rang them this morning to pay a deposit, but the smaller engine and the fact that I wasn't 100% sure about the colour kept nagging at me. If you like the colour it's worth a look but don't expect to be able to haggle much off:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2011...
3. A Topaz Blue 3.0 with black leather interior: I looked at this one second after a really tatty 2.2 that nearly put off the whole idea. It was the dearest on the market, but I went to look as I wanted to see what a really good one would be like. I figured if this one didn't 'do it' for me, then I might as well give up...obviously I didn't. Before I committed to the red one above, I gave him a call to see if he would take an offer even though there wasn't really anything I could haggle over bar a tiny mark on one door. Cue much sucking of teeth and 'I'll call you back', resulting in a £500 discount and I paid the deposit on my way home tonight (just an excuse to see it again really ). It was still £1300 more than the red 2.2, but seeing it again today I know I'd have regretted buying one in a colour I wasn't sure about and the extra cc won't go unused either. 
I've always compromised on things I buy such as TVs, hifi, etc: I tend to buy the 'next model down' and for once I just thought stuff it I'd get what I'd really like (well there's always the Z3M I suppose). Maybe I've paid over the odds despite the haggling, but I couldn't find one within 200 miles that was any cheaper/lower mileage, so what the heck. I pick it up on Saturday as I'm away with work for a few days and might as well wait for March for the road tax to start.
I managed to get my insurance through Swiftcover: It's insured through my OH and they will 'mirror' her no claims (they are well aware I'll be the main driver). Works out £260 with a £150 comp XS plus I've volunteered £300 XS on top.
I looked at 8 cars this weekend and it boiled down to one of three:
1. A really tidy 1.9 Silver private sale with history from BMW specialists and very little to betray it's 89,000 miles. Up for £2,700 with a fresh MOT and 6 months tax only the smaller engine and green leather interior slightly put me off. It had heated seats, aircon and an electric roof which all worked correctly. The guy took me on a really long test drive (I had no insurance so couldn't drive) so no worries about how it went. If it's in your area (Ash near Farnborough) and you're looking for a 1.9 it's well worth a look. I drove another 1.9 and despite the smaller engine it was still fun to thrash along with the roof off, so I was thinking I'd maybe just spend the least I could to get a roof down car...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
(I used the postcode for AshVale church BTW).
2. A metallic red 2.2 62K at a dealer in Uxbridge. BMW history early on changing to BMW specialists in later years. Pretty much unmarked save for very light surface marks on the rear wings that I know would polish (ie not even compound) out, but I still used it to haggle over. It had one odd tyre on the back which was disspointing, but this could have been changed to match the other rear I guess. I could have had it for £4,440 with a full year's tax put on (£240 for this model/age as it's just over the March 2001 change over). Very nearly rang them this morning to pay a deposit, but the smaller engine and the fact that I wasn't 100% sure about the colour kept nagging at me. If you like the colour it's worth a look but don't expect to be able to haggle much off:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2011...
3. A Topaz Blue 3.0 with black leather interior: I looked at this one second after a really tatty 2.2 that nearly put off the whole idea. It was the dearest on the market, but I went to look as I wanted to see what a really good one would be like. I figured if this one didn't 'do it' for me, then I might as well give up...obviously I didn't.
Before I committed to the red one above, I gave him a call to see if he would take an offer even though there wasn't really anything I could haggle over bar a tiny mark on one door. Cue much sucking of teeth and 'I'll call you back', resulting in a £500 discount and I paid the deposit on my way home tonight (just an excuse to see it again really ). It was still £1300 more than the red 2.2, but seeing it again today I know I'd have regretted buying one in a colour I wasn't sure about and the extra cc won't go unused either. I've always compromised on things I buy such as TVs, hifi, etc: I tend to buy the 'next model down' and for once I just thought stuff it I'd get what I'd really like (well there's always the Z3M I suppose). Maybe I've paid over the odds despite the haggling, but I couldn't find one within 200 miles that was any cheaper/lower mileage, so what the heck. I pick it up on Saturday as I'm away with work for a few days and might as well wait for March for the road tax to start.
I managed to get my insurance through Swiftcover: It's insured through my OH and they will 'mirror' her no claims (they are well aware I'll be the main driver). Works out £260 with a £150 comp XS plus I've volunteered £300 XS on top.
Edited by OldSkoolRS on Wednesday 29th February 17:39
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