E46 what could be causing these codes?
Discussion
rfsteel said:
Nitrile 40mm ID x 5mm C/S O Ring. 40x5. Choose Quantity. New. Metric.
This is the seal I fitted to my E39 fuel cap instead of purchasing a new cap.
Is that the size you ordered and it stretches? 40mm I.D. is too small isn't it?This is the seal I fitted to my E39 fuel cap instead of purchasing a new cap.
NiceCupOfTea said:
Well that was a waste of time, "Febi Bilstein" part from ECP was nasty Chinese s
te and doesn't even fit properly. Just checked, and a genuine cap is £32 from BMW which is a little more than I was hoping for. Looks like I'm on the hunt for an O-ring/seal.
£15 here pal:te and doesn't even fit properly. Just checked, and a genuine cap is £32 from BMW which is a little more than I was hoping for. Looks like I'm on the hunt for an O-ring/seal.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224090653616?fits=Car+M...
d_a_n1979 said:
NiceCupOfTea said:
Well that was a waste of time, "Febi Bilstein" part from ECP was nasty Chinese ste and doesn't even fit properly. Just checked, and a genuine cap is £32 from BMW which is a little more than I was hoping for. Looks like I'm on the hunt for an O-ring/seal.
£15 here pal:te and doesn't even fit properly. Just checked, and a genuine cap is £32 from BMW which is a little more than I was hoping for. Looks like I'm on the hunt for an O-ring/seal.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224090653616?fits=Car+M...
Huh.
Well, replaced the seal on the fuel cap and went for a run after resetting the trouble codes and mpg. Such a pain to get to the battery in the touring I didn't bother to pull the negative terminal off to reset adaptations. Found an option to do it on my code reader although not sure it worked. Managed to get 28mpg which considering the traffic wasn't bad going and better than the high teens it was on before. No CEL, but after a scan the "fuel trim - permissible range exceeded" codes on both banks was back. I've had all the intake pipework off and refitted and tightened carefully. Is the most likely thing a vacuum leak?
It's going in for a service next week anyway so I guess I'll just admit defeat and ask them to have a look, but it would be nice to have solved it myself...
Edit: had a look at the live datastream on my Creator C310, think this is relevant:
Adaptation, mixture, addititive, bank 1: 0.18ms
Adaptation, mixture, addititive, bank 2: 0.21ms
Adaptation, mixture, bank 1, multiplicative: 1.1%
Adaptation, mixture, bank 2, multiplicative: 2.0%
If I read this right, as they are positive values it is a lean mixture... (think additive is short term, multiplicative is long term).
It seems to run fine, idle is OK (was slightly uneven before I replace the seal on the fuel cap, maybe...
Well, replaced the seal on the fuel cap and went for a run after resetting the trouble codes and mpg. Such a pain to get to the battery in the touring I didn't bother to pull the negative terminal off to reset adaptations. Found an option to do it on my code reader although not sure it worked. Managed to get 28mpg which considering the traffic wasn't bad going and better than the high teens it was on before. No CEL, but after a scan the "fuel trim - permissible range exceeded" codes on both banks was back. I've had all the intake pipework off and refitted and tightened carefully. Is the most likely thing a vacuum leak?
It's going in for a service next week anyway so I guess I'll just admit defeat and ask them to have a look, but it would be nice to have solved it myself...
Edit: had a look at the live datastream on my Creator C310, think this is relevant:
Adaptation, mixture, addititive, bank 1: 0.18ms
Adaptation, mixture, addititive, bank 2: 0.21ms
Adaptation, mixture, bank 1, multiplicative: 1.1%
Adaptation, mixture, bank 2, multiplicative: 2.0%
If I read this right, as they are positive values it is a lean mixture... (think additive is short term, multiplicative is long term).
It seems to run fine, idle is OK (was slightly uneven before I replace the seal on the fuel cap, maybe...
Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Friday 18th March 14:09
d_a_n1979 said:
Are you absolutely sure that all the intake piping, DISA and vac lines are in rude health with no splits etc?
What about the blank plugs on the rear of the block & the intake section that connects to the base of the TB; these often get overlooked...
No, not /absolutely/ sure What about the blank plugs on the rear of the block & the intake section that connects to the base of the TB; these often get overlooked...
if I have a chance over the weekend I'll have another look...NiceCupOfTea said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Are you absolutely sure that all the intake piping, DISA and vac lines are in rude health with no splits etc?
What about the blank plugs on the rear of the block & the intake section that connects to the base of the TB; these often get overlooked...
No, not /absolutely/ sure What about the blank plugs on the rear of the block & the intake section that connects to the base of the TB; these often get overlooked...
if I have a chance over the weekend I'll have another look...The ribbed areas of the intake boots can crack, but hard to see unless you remove them and open them up. Same with the vac pipes at the back; they can look fine until you touch them and they either crumble or they're not connected at all... The blanking plugs can disappear into the ether too, but are easily missed!
Check that O ring on the DISA too and make sure it's seated properly
Latest in the saga 
(why do all my cars suffer from sagas? 
)
DIdn't have time to deal, it went in for an Inspection 2 yesterday anyway. Garage confirmed the codes were stored(!) but said it needed a smoke test (which is what I rather hoped they'd be doing!).
Anyway, it came back with the CEL on and the purge valve code back (which I thought I had banished with the new seal on the filler cap.
The purge valve code has been bugging me as everywhere I look it says "replace the valve". I tested it - resistance across it is good, solenoid clicks with 12v across it, and it works as intended (air only flows when 12v is on it). Took the airbox out again tonight and traced the vacuum cables as far as I could - they all look ok, but have covers on bits of them - one disappears under the inlet manifold and the other down towards the back of the car. Electrical contacts looked OK but sprayed with switch cleaner (and the MAF contacts).
Wasn't expecting anything, but started the car and the CEL light went straight out and stayed out. It seems to be the P0444 Evap Purge Valve code that triggers the CEL, the Lean codes didn't seem to set it off. Did a quick scan and all the codes were still there but no CEL.
Anyway, on a hunch I reset the codes and went for a quick drive - 5 minutes later and no codes have come back. Can it really be as simple as a dodgy connection? It's not grubby down there and it's a sealed connector. Also, I'm wondering why I was getting the lean codes if it was an electrical fault that clearly doesn't need resetting to get rid of the CEL.
All very peculiar. Anyway, it's come a bit late for a 400 mile journey tomorrow, I'm not going to risk it, but interesting to see how long the codes stay off...
(why do all my cars suffer from sagas? )DIdn't have time to deal, it went in for an Inspection 2 yesterday anyway. Garage confirmed the codes were stored(!) but said it needed a smoke test (which is what I rather hoped they'd be doing!).
Anyway, it came back with the CEL on and the purge valve code back (which I thought I had banished with the new seal on the filler cap.
The purge valve code has been bugging me as everywhere I look it says "replace the valve". I tested it - resistance across it is good, solenoid clicks with 12v across it, and it works as intended (air only flows when 12v is on it). Took the airbox out again tonight and traced the vacuum cables as far as I could - they all look ok, but have covers on bits of them - one disappears under the inlet manifold and the other down towards the back of the car. Electrical contacts looked OK but sprayed with switch cleaner (and the MAF contacts).
Wasn't expecting anything, but started the car and the CEL light went straight out and stayed out. It seems to be the P0444 Evap Purge Valve code that triggers the CEL, the Lean codes didn't seem to set it off. Did a quick scan and all the codes were still there but no CEL.
Anyway, on a hunch I reset the codes and went for a quick drive - 5 minutes later and no codes have come back. Can it really be as simple as a dodgy connection? It's not grubby down there and it's a sealed connector. Also, I'm wondering why I was getting the lean codes if it was an electrical fault that clearly doesn't need resetting to get rid of the CEL.
All very peculiar. Anyway, it's come a bit late for a 400 mile journey tomorrow, I'm not going to risk it, but interesting to see how long the codes stay off...
NiceCupOfTea said:
Still no codes (apart from map cooling which is the thermostat and seemingly permanent on my car) but appalling fuel consumption. I am doing well to crack 20mpg 
That can be cam/crank sensors IIRC and they rarely throw a code, unfortunately!They'll also start causing starting issues the worse they get
You sure your engine (plugs, oil, filters, coil packs etc) and in rude health and the same for the vanos and CCV systems?
Just had an inspection 2 so service items should all be good. I have changed a couple of coil packs previously when needed but they’ve thrown codes and misfired.
Engine is running smoothly, no idle problems or dead spots that I would associate with vanes issues, DISA was refurbed a year or two ago, CCV system I don’t know but I’m not using excessive oil…
Engine is running smoothly, no idle problems or dead spots that I would associate with vanes issues, DISA was refurbed a year or two ago, CCV system I don’t know but I’m not using excessive oil…
NiceCupOfTea said:
Just had an inspection 2 so service items should all be good. I have changed a couple of coil packs previously when needed but they’ve thrown codes and misfired.
Engine is running smoothly, no idle problems or dead spots that I would associate with vanes issues, DISA was refurbed a year or two ago, CCV system I don’t know but I’m not using excessive oil…
Well the main causes are bad O2 sensors (you'll rarely get a code for these), failed thermostat (again rarely get a code even though it looks like it's reading fine) and a duff fuel filter...Engine is running smoothly, no idle problems or dead spots that I would associate with vanes issues, DISA was refurbed a year or two ago, CCV system I don’t know but I’m not using excessive oil…
It can be a sod to sort; but these are the main culprits
Well the light came back on and sub-20mpg fuel consumption meant I left the car and booked it in. Just came back with them having smoke tested it saying it was the breather system which they have replaced.
All good for a few days, EML came back on this morning. FML. No code reader with me to check it but I am about ready to set fire to it at the moment. Saab is in the garage with a brake issue, hit a deer in the mini last week so can't drive that until I have sourced a bonnet that will close.
Fed up with cars!
All good for a few days, EML came back on this morning. FML. No code reader with me to check it but I am about ready to set fire to it at the moment. Saab is in the garage with a brake issue, hit a deer in the mini last week so can't drive that until I have sourced a bonnet that will close.
Fed up with cars!
Just checked codes P0444 which I had before but disappeared (Evap Purge valve circuit open) and misfires on al 6 cylinders. I’m assuming the misfires are red herrings - it is running OK.
I checked the evap valve before - resistance within tolerance, and works properly when tested with 12v. I sprayed it with switch cleaner. Is it really worth swapping out for a new one when it appears to work fine? The wiring disappears pretty quickly so no real way of checking it unless I suppose I run the car with a multimeter on the plug…
Other possibility is the filler cap - I have replaced the seal with a round one rather than one with a cutout. It’s tougher to fit but it should still work…
Is it worth throwing money at a new purge valve?
I checked the evap valve before - resistance within tolerance, and works properly when tested with 12v. I sprayed it with switch cleaner. Is it really worth swapping out for a new one when it appears to work fine? The wiring disappears pretty quickly so no real way of checking it unless I suppose I run the car with a multimeter on the plug…
Other possibility is the filler cap - I have replaced the seal with a round one rather than one with a cutout. It’s tougher to fit but it should still work…
Is it worth throwing money at a new purge valve?
Not sure - will check.
Found an interesting thread last night talking about electrical connections
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/p0444-cant-fin...
I had pretty much decided to get a replacement anyway - took it off and checked resistance again jus now - 25.1 ohms, which now seems below tolerance.
What was odd is that I checked the voltage across the connector - it showed around 1v both with the ignition on and engine running. This doesn’t seem right - saw a comment suggesting it might only be 5v and that was OK, but surely 1v isn’t enough to trigger it. I understand the other end of the wire goes to a conduit box - is the this the big box in front of the bulkhead/windscreen? Wondering if it’s worth replacing the cable if there’s an electrical problem. Gawd knows where I’d go from there if that didn’t work…
Found an interesting thread last night talking about electrical connections
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/p0444-cant-fin...
I had pretty much decided to get a replacement anyway - took it off and checked resistance again jus now - 25.1 ohms, which now seems below tolerance.
What was odd is that I checked the voltage across the connector - it showed around 1v both with the ignition on and engine running. This doesn’t seem right - saw a comment suggesting it might only be 5v and that was OK, but surely 1v isn’t enough to trigger it. I understand the other end of the wire goes to a conduit box - is the this the big box in front of the bulkhead/windscreen? Wondering if it’s worth replacing the cable if there’s an electrical problem. Gawd knows where I’d go from there if that didn’t work…
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