E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
AmirGSXR said:
Hi All,
2005 E90 330i developed following codes this morning and is running rough:
29D2 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6
2E68: knock sensor signal
What should be the course of action to rectify?
I'd start with plugs and coils (my money is on coil). If you take the plug and coil from cylinder 6 and swap it with another, clear the code and then see if it comes back on the same cylinder or in the other one. If it moves then, swap the coils back over. If it move again, then it's the coil, if it stays put it's the plug. If none of that does anything, it would be worth swapping a pair of injectors to see if that is the culprit. I think realistically injector is worst case but maybe least likely. 2005 E90 330i developed following codes this morning and is running rough:
29D2 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6
2E68: knock sensor signal
What should be the course of action to rectify?
Gad-Westy said:
I'd start with plugs and coils (my money is on coil). If you take the plug and coil from cylinder 6 and swap it with another, clear the code and then see if it comes back on the same cylinder or in the other one. If it moves then, swap the coils back over. If it move again, then it's the coil, if it stays put it's the plug. If none of that does anything, it would be worth swapping a pair of injectors to see if that is the culprit. I think realistically injector is worst case but maybe least likely.
This.Friend of mine had similar on his 330i and it was a dodgy coil.
AmirGSXR said:
Thanks guys.
Would a Bosch coil from ECP be ok?
Thinking of just changing the coil of cylinder 6, but doing all the spark plugs.
I'd probably do a bit of diagnosis first. It's just a case of removing the engine cover then you have access to coils. Easy to switch around. Would a Bosch coil from ECP be ok?
Thinking of just changing the coil of cylinder 6, but doing all the spark plugs.
My OE ones are Bosch so thumbs up to that.
Wife’s N53 325i touring auto has pretty much been averaging 22-28 mpg since 2020 with occasional stutter at motorway speeds, been at 3 different highly rated BMW specialists who can’t find any issues with it as there’s no EML.
Always run on super.
Asked for diagnostic at recent service and we had 2 historic nox faults but none currently- read up on the noxem units and think it might be the way to go but our specialists said they would not recommend one at all or fit it for us. Any ideas if this is the way to go and who and how to go about it - based in Essex.
We know it should do more mpg and not hesitate occasionally at 70…
Had recent plug and I’ve changed all 6 coils for OEM Delphi. Car has only 72,000 miles.
Mrs wants out of the car now as it’s just one sensor after another at the moment plus piss poor economy.
Always run on super.
Asked for diagnostic at recent service and we had 2 historic nox faults but none currently- read up on the noxem units and think it might be the way to go but our specialists said they would not recommend one at all or fit it for us. Any ideas if this is the way to go and who and how to go about it - based in Essex.
We know it should do more mpg and not hesitate occasionally at 70…
Had recent plug and I’ve changed all 6 coils for OEM Delphi. Car has only 72,000 miles.
Mrs wants out of the car now as it’s just one sensor after another at the moment plus piss poor economy.
Evening all, I've recently joined the club/thread with a bit of a project. 150k miles, Auto and needing a bit of a tidy-up.
So far, I have put a new battery on, which highlighted a dead FCM, that I posted off today to be repaired, hopefully. I also changed the oil filter as the engine made an odd noise, which seemed to have cured it. I will do it again with an oil change after I've confirmed if the oil under the car is from a previous leak or a current one!
I will also be removing all of the black bits (including wheels/tyres) as the rear tyres are through to the threads, so I've only driven it home so far!
Thread here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Thanks
So far, I have put a new battery on, which highlighted a dead FCM, that I posted off today to be repaired, hopefully. I also changed the oil filter as the engine made an odd noise, which seemed to have cured it. I will do it again with an oil change after I've confirmed if the oil under the car is from a previous leak or a current one!
I will also be removing all of the black bits (including wheels/tyres) as the rear tyres are through to the threads, so I've only driven it home so far!
Thread here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Thanks
six port said:
Wife’s N53 325i touring auto has pretty much been averaging 22-28 mpg since 2020 with occasional stutter at motorway speeds, been at 3 different highly rated BMW specialists who can’t find any issues with it as there’s no EML.
Always run on super.
Asked for diagnostic at recent service and we had 2 historic nox faults but none currently- read up on the noxem units and think it might be the way to go but our specialists said they would not recommend one at all or fit it for us. Any ideas if this is the way to go and who and how to go about it - based in Essex.
We know it should do more mpg and not hesitate occasionally at 70…
Had recent plug and I’ve changed all 6 coils for OEM Delphi. Car has only 72,000 miles.
Mrs wants out of the car now as it’s just one sensor after another at the moment plus piss poor economy.
I'd probably find a friendly independent garage who are fairly handy to fit the Noxem emulator- I looked into the N53 a fair bit when I was buying my car (ended up with an N52) and it does seem like a very good bit of kit- assume the highly rated BMW specialists are the slightly stuffy type who pretty much behave as a main dealer but without the nice coffee or courtesy cars?Always run on super.
Asked for diagnostic at recent service and we had 2 historic nox faults but none currently- read up on the noxem units and think it might be the way to go but our specialists said they would not recommend one at all or fit it for us. Any ideas if this is the way to go and who and how to go about it - based in Essex.
We know it should do more mpg and not hesitate occasionally at 70…
Had recent plug and I’ve changed all 6 coils for OEM Delphi. Car has only 72,000 miles.
Mrs wants out of the car now as it’s just one sensor after another at the moment plus piss poor economy.
Otherwise you're looking at a new NOx catalytic converter (which is serious money) or the unlikely possibility that it's injectors- doubt they'd cause NOx faults but they can cause the rough running issues and are the other achilles heal on the N53- also silly money though. You'd probably be better off punting it to an unsuspecting dealer and getting out of it than doing either of those, unless you really love the car and want to keep it a good while.
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
Have you a code reader that'll do the registration for you (ie Creator C410 etc)? If not, worth having on, only c£60 on Amazon
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
Have you a code reader that'll do the registration for you (ie Creator C410 etc)? If not, worth having on, only c£60 on Amazon
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
Have you a code reader that'll do the registration for you (ie Creator C410 etc)? If not, worth having on, only c£60 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creator-Battery-Registrat...
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
Have you a code reader that'll do the registration for you (ie Creator C410 etc)? If not, worth having on, only c£60 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creator-Battery-Registrat...
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Max M4X WW said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that after fitting a new battery and killing the FCM, should I get the battery coded? It is slightly different on the numbers and obviously new, which some people say needs the car updating, so it knows this.
Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
A new battery needs to be registered to the car, if it's a like for like spec (ie 90Ah etc)Any confirmation would be welcome! Thanks
If it's a completely different spec battery (ie 105Ah) then it needs to be coded to the car
Have you a code reader that'll do the registration for you (ie Creator C410 etc)? If not, worth having on, only c£60 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creator-Battery-Registrat...
A quick update re my misfire and 29D2 code.
It was the ignition coil as I swapped it with cylinder 2 and the code then shifted to this cylinder.
I bought a Delphi coil from Euro CP but it doesnt allow me to fit the electrical connector because there is a little plastic part in the center instead of the side (as in the Original Bosch coil).
Edited to add:
I was going to return it, but reading online suggests that BMW updated coils for 2016 and they do not allow fitment of connectors from pre-LCI early N52 with magnesium block like my car (April 05 car).
People suggest to just cut the little plastic tab to allow it to fit - what do you guys think about that?
It was the ignition coil as I swapped it with cylinder 2 and the code then shifted to this cylinder.
I bought a Delphi coil from Euro CP but it doesnt allow me to fit the electrical connector because there is a little plastic part in the center instead of the side (as in the Original Bosch coil).
Edited to add:
I was going to return it, but reading online suggests that BMW updated coils for 2016 and they do not allow fitment of connectors from pre-LCI early N52 with magnesium block like my car (April 05 car).
People suggest to just cut the little plastic tab to allow it to fit - what do you guys think about that?
Edited by AmirGSXR on Thursday 13th July 19:03
AmirGSXR said:
A quick update re my misfire and 29D2 code.
It was the ignition coil as I swapped it with cylinder 2 and the code then shifted to this cylinder.
I bought a Delphi coil from Euro CP but it doesnt allow me to fit the electrical connector because there is a little plastic part in the center instead of the side (as in the Original Bosch coil).
Edited to add:
I was going to return it, but reading online suggests that BMW updated coils for 2016 and they do not allow fitment of connectors from pre-LCI early N52 with magnesium block like my car (April 05 car).
People suggest to just cut the little plastic tab to allow it to fit - what do you guys think about that?
That’s interesting.It was the ignition coil as I swapped it with cylinder 2 and the code then shifted to this cylinder.
I bought a Delphi coil from Euro CP but it doesnt allow me to fit the electrical connector because there is a little plastic part in the center instead of the side (as in the Original Bosch coil).
Edited to add:
I was going to return it, but reading online suggests that BMW updated coils for 2016 and they do not allow fitment of connectors from pre-LCI early N52 with magnesium block like my car (April 05 car).
People suggest to just cut the little plastic tab to allow it to fit - what do you guys think about that?
Edited by AmirGSXR on Thursday 13th July 19:03
My mate has just replaced a coil on his 330i with the magnesium top and he didn’t mention any issues. He bought a Bosch jobbie from GSF.
JakeT said:
Max, if you need a hand I can come snd register the battery for you.
Honestly it isn’t the end of the world and many don’t register the battery, but may as well do it properly.
Thanks for the offer! I can't remember exactly where you are but a mate has one of those tablet Autel things which are about £300 so I assume that should do it. I will have a go and let you know.Honestly it isn’t the end of the world and many don’t register the battery, but may as well do it properly.
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