E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
After almost a year of contemplating, decided to flash the Alpina B3 Biturbo gearbox map onto my 335i. As the Alpina uses the same engine and gearbox as the 335i it's fully compatible. It's a quick and pretty painless job, but I prefer not to take any chances so chose to hook up the 70A switched mode power supply to ensure a steady 13.8V for programming. As can be seen from the photo below, the car is drawing 29 amps to maintain the set voltage. This is why a charger is in no way a substitute for a power supply when programming.
You'll notice I had the voltage set to 14.2 volts. This was to account for the small voltage drop through the cables and connections etc. Using INPA I monitored the voltage at the ECU to get the correct level, which was easier than connecting the remote sense cable to the power supply.
And done
Well sort of... I took it for a quick drive and the paddles didn't work. This is a known issue with cars built after a certain date, not sure if it coincides with the LCI changeover but it affected mine. The solution is to default code the EGS with NCS Expert making sure you have a reasonably up to date SP daten file set. All sorted.
A big advantage aside from the better shift quality and throttle blips on downshifts is the gear display in D and S mode, which always annoyed me about the standard setup.
A much cheaper (ie free!) alternative to xHP, and more importantly as an Alpina product I'm confident it's been thoroughly tested and isn't doing something the gearbox shouldn't be doing.
You'll notice I had the voltage set to 14.2 volts. This was to account for the small voltage drop through the cables and connections etc. Using INPA I monitored the voltage at the ECU to get the correct level, which was easier than connecting the remote sense cable to the power supply.
And done
Well sort of... I took it for a quick drive and the paddles didn't work. This is a known issue with cars built after a certain date, not sure if it coincides with the LCI changeover but it affected mine. The solution is to default code the EGS with NCS Expert making sure you have a reasonably up to date SP daten file set. All sorted.
A big advantage aside from the better shift quality and throttle blips on downshifts is the gear display in D and S mode, which always annoyed me about the standard setup.
A much cheaper (ie free!) alternative to xHP, and more importantly as an Alpina product I'm confident it's been thoroughly tested and isn't doing something the gearbox shouldn't be doing.
After nearly 4 years with an N53 looks like I finally have at least one leaking injector; whilst changing the spark plugs, I found plug 5 smelt of petrol. Plug 1 was also bit sooty but no petrol smell. Oddly enough I had never had any cold start problems, until I started it the following day, where it appeared to run on 5 cylinders for a few seconds.
I know a few years back some people had success with secondhand index 11 injectors, I don't know if the risk of secondhand ones failing has increased enough to make it less worthwhile now they're that bit older.
On the plus side, the spark plug change and replacing a dead coil has completely cured the hesitation under load, and the throttle response seems better across the board.
I know a few years back some people had success with secondhand index 11 injectors, I don't know if the risk of secondhand ones failing has increased enough to make it less worthwhile now they're that bit older.
On the plus side, the spark plug change and replacing a dead coil has completely cured the hesitation under load, and the throttle response seems better across the board.
They were £320ish on ML performance the other day, now £373. I don't know if ML prices fluctuate Autodoc style. Secondhand index 11s are £120 to £150 on ebay, with the mileage I do, they might be worth the risk if they haven't been dropped/dinked. Need to factor in new seals and fitting tool for secondhand ones too.
The one that is definitely leaking is an index 2 so possibly the original from 2007.
The one that is definitely leaking is an index 2 so possibly the original from 2007.
RECr said:
They were £320ish on ML performance the other day, now £373. I don't know if ML prices fluctuate Autodoc style. Secondhand index 11s are £120 to £150 on ebay, with the mileage I do, they might be worth the risk if they haven't been dropped/dinked. Need to factor in new seals and fitting tool for secondhand ones too.
The one that is definitely leaking is an index 2 so possibly the original from 2007.
On my N54 the injectors were a mix of index 5 and 9 (it was subject to a recall looking at the history), so to looks like it had three dud injectors. Cylinder six was an index nine and the plug was wet when I changed them earlier this year. I ended up buying a used injector on eBay for £100 and it solved my issue. I’ve got a complete set of index 9’s that are good (bought from a PHer) in the garage as a back up to any more issues.The one that is definitely leaking is an index 2 so possibly the original from 2007.
At £370 per unit I’d fit used too, I know in 2020 I fitted a set to a friends 630i and they were under £200 each. His car had forever rough running due to crap injectors so he bit the bullet. No harder than plugs to fit, and adaptations added with INPA easily. Many don’t even go all 11s per bank and are fine, but I’d collect up some used ones for when the time comes as I’m sure prices are only going one way sadly.
JakeT said:
At £370 per unit I’d fit used too, I know in 2020 I fitted a set to a friends 630i and they were under £200 each. His car had forever rough running due to crap injectors so he bit the bullet. No harder than plugs to fit, and adaptations added with INPA easily. Many don’t even go all 11s per bank and are fine, but I’d collect up some used ones for when the time comes as I’m sure prices are only going one way sadly.
I found a link to an old ML Performance page when index 12 injectors were £147 each. They’re now £200 more expensive which is definitely punchy for all six. Following the discovery of a wet, corroded DME in the 330i I decided to do some investigating yesterday.
After removing the DME box, I discovered a small pool of water above the wheel arch liner. I’m sure that it was flooding from underneath.
The next question was how was lots of water getting in beneath the DME? It didn’t take long to figure out a possibility when I started removing bits.
I scraped this out of various seals and water channels
I gave everything a really good clean and put it back together but the panel below the windscreen doesn’t sit tight or flush
I’ve looked back at a few old pics and zoomed in and you can see that corner sticking up a wee bit. My guess is that water has been running down the windscreen and making it way under the cover, getting diverted by gunk and ending up under the DME.
I’ve ordered a replacement piece of trim that sits on the windscreen since the one on the car is a bit loose and the scuttle trim doesn’t clip in that convincingly. It’s a cheap part.
After removing the DME box, I discovered a small pool of water above the wheel arch liner. I’m sure that it was flooding from underneath.
The next question was how was lots of water getting in beneath the DME? It didn’t take long to figure out a possibility when I started removing bits.
I scraped this out of various seals and water channels
I gave everything a really good clean and put it back together but the panel below the windscreen doesn’t sit tight or flush
I’ve looked back at a few old pics and zoomed in and you can see that corner sticking up a wee bit. My guess is that water has been running down the windscreen and making it way under the cover, getting diverted by gunk and ending up under the DME.
I’ve ordered a replacement piece of trim that sits on the windscreen since the one on the car is a bit loose and the scuttle trim doesn’t clip in that convincingly. It’s a cheap part.
I think I’m finally there with resolving the DME issues.
The first replacement DME didn’t work. The car tried to turn over but nothing and I ended up with loads of DME errors when I ran the codes.
I spoke to BW Chiptune who sent me a second DME which I popped in at lunchtime today and the car fired up as if nothing had happened. I still need to replace some of the seals at the base of the windscreen to try and make sure that the plastic trim under the windscreen wipers sits flush against the windscreen. I just need to pop to BMW to pick them up.
Next maintenance planned is the rocker cover gasket and replacing the CCV because some of the pipes looked pretty shagged. I wonder what will be the next disaster as I try to make the car as good as an old E91 with 16hk on the clock can be.
The first replacement DME didn’t work. The car tried to turn over but nothing and I ended up with loads of DME errors when I ran the codes.
I spoke to BW Chiptune who sent me a second DME which I popped in at lunchtime today and the car fired up as if nothing had happened. I still need to replace some of the seals at the base of the windscreen to try and make sure that the plastic trim under the windscreen wipers sits flush against the windscreen. I just need to pop to BMW to pick them up.
Next maintenance planned is the rocker cover gasket and replacing the CCV because some of the pipes looked pretty shagged. I wonder what will be the next disaster as I try to make the car as good as an old E91 with 16hk on the clock can be.
When I took mine in for Darren Woods to look at they couldn't find any sign of any faults. None stored and they couldn't replicate the issue. They were about to give up when they tried accelerating on full lock and that's when it cut out.
That was what prompted them to look at the DME and find the water. I don't think it was quite as well known about back then.
I reckon mine had been sitting in some amount of water pretty much since I bought it in 2012 going off the occasional issues I had.
That was what prompted them to look at the DME and find the water. I don't think it was quite as well known about back then.
I reckon mine had been sitting in some amount of water pretty much since I bought it in 2012 going off the occasional issues I had.
Looks like I’m not quite out of the water just yet…
I noticed today that the idle speed was higher than usual; once warm it was sitting at 900 rpm (roughly). It didn’t really change when I turned the AC off either.
Looks like a bit more digging is required. The car drove fine today though, smooth etc. I’ll start by checking the voltages etc.
I noticed today that the idle speed was higher than usual; once warm it was sitting at 900 rpm (roughly). It didn’t really change when I turned the AC off either.
Looks like a bit more digging is required. The car drove fine today though, smooth etc. I’ll start by checking the voltages etc.
Great news! Glad it's up and running again.
I wouldn't worry about the idle speed. There are loads of parameters that the ECU learns based on the specifics of your engine so it's probably sorting all that out being that you've got a new ECU.
If you're still getting high idle after a bit of use I'd dig into it more but most likely it'll sort itself out.
I wouldn't worry about the idle speed. There are loads of parameters that the ECU learns based on the specifics of your engine so it's probably sorting all that out being that you've got a new ECU.
If you're still getting high idle after a bit of use I'd dig into it more but most likely it'll sort itself out.
pmorg4 said:
Great news! Glad it's up and running again.
I wouldn't worry about the idle speed. There are loads of parameters that the ECU learns based on the specifics of your engine so it's probably sorting all that out being that you've got a new ECU.
If you're still getting high idle after a bit of use I'd dig into it more but most likely it'll sort itself out.
Cheers. Hopefully it was just a one off and it happened after running a few errands in it yesterday, so it was on and off quite a bit. There were no codes other than historic ones and it drove fine. I wouldn't worry about the idle speed. There are loads of parameters that the ECU learns based on the specifics of your engine so it's probably sorting all that out being that you've got a new ECU.
If you're still getting high idle after a bit of use I'd dig into it more but most likely it'll sort itself out.
JakeT said:
Nice work on it up and running again.
Mine sometimes idles high, maybe 900RPM. only when it’s very hot outside, but it’s fine otherwise. I tend to just let it be.
That’s about where it was idling at yesterday after using it for some errands. It was fine this morning whilst I was deicing it, dropped to 650 quite quickly. Mine sometimes idles high, maybe 900RPM. only when it’s very hot outside, but it’s fine otherwise. I tend to just let it be.
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