E65 daily driver
Discussion
A few months ago I decided it was time I got back into a big car. I have always loved a barge and have had S classes and A6s before. Never had a big BMW though. My last big car was a few years ago now. I have been running around in a Seat Ibiza since, which I couldn’t really fault as it was very cheap to run. When we found out my wife was pregnant I decided it was time to return to the big car club.
Not the best picture but taken on the day I bought her. 730d welcome to the family.
Not the best picture but taken on the day I bought her. 730d welcome to the family.
Edited by Hamster69 on Tuesday 3rd November 00:59
It seemed like a bit of a no brainier. The big German cars just don’t hold their value like the midsize stuff. It shouldn’t make sense, as you are getting a lot more car in a 7 than a 5 series. I think people are scared though. I think they think the big cars will come with big bills, for maintenance and repairs. Of coarse this could be true, but a 7 shares engine and gearbox with the 5. Just as the S class, the E class and even the C class share engines, gearboxes, control units, master cylinders etc.
I should say at this point I am a mechanic, so taking on a bit of a project doesn’t really bother me. Having walked round the 7 it was clear it would be a bit of a project. But I knocked the owner down accordingly and ended up paying around half the average price of a similar age/mileage 5 series.
So I have spent around 10 years building the 3 series as a track car and I worked for Mercedes as a technician for just over 8 years. These are why taking on a big BMW doesn’t scare me to much.
There is a very long thread on my BMW track car build
I also did a thread similar to this on my S class
I should say at this point I am a mechanic, so taking on a bit of a project doesn’t really bother me. Having walked round the 7 it was clear it would be a bit of a project. But I knocked the owner down accordingly and ended up paying around half the average price of a similar age/mileage 5 series.
So I have spent around 10 years building the 3 series as a track car and I worked for Mercedes as a technician for just over 8 years. These are why taking on a big BMW doesn’t scare me to much.
There is a very long thread on my BMW track car build
I also did a thread similar to this on my S class
Edited by Hamster69 on Tuesday 3rd November 01:05
Having walked round the car and driven it. I knew a few things were wrong. The side lights weren’t working, the steering wheel wasn’t straight, idle was lumpy and a serious vibration when driving.
Sounds like a winner I know. But as I said I knocked the owner down accordingly.
I could see light at the end of the tunnel. If I spend the money I knocked him down on parts, I could have a nice 7.
Purchased and back at work I did the first initial inspection.
As I suspected the vibration was a front bottom ball joint. There was slight play in one of the rear uppers too.
Unfortunately the rear brake pipes were rotten too. Something I think is quite common on these busses.
The front discs and pads are basically done too. So now I have a shopping list to make her safe.
Sounds like a winner I know. But as I said I knocked the owner down accordingly.
I could see light at the end of the tunnel. If I spend the money I knocked him down on parts, I could have a nice 7.
Purchased and back at work I did the first initial inspection.
As I suspected the vibration was a front bottom ball joint. There was slight play in one of the rear uppers too.
Unfortunately the rear brake pipes were rotten too. Something I think is quite common on these busses.
The front discs and pads are basically done too. So now I have a shopping list to make her safe.
Sounds like you have a very similar car to mine.
Once I had the suspension sorted, I popped it on the four wheel alignment machine and reset everything back to factory settings. Now it drives lovely.
I ripped out the rear brake pipes and replaced them with copper. The brake hoses were a little tired so I plumped for a braided set too.
While there I replaced the slider bolts and rubbers. Obviously along with the discs and pads.
Once I had the suspension sorted, I popped it on the four wheel alignment machine and reset everything back to factory settings. Now it drives lovely.
I ripped out the rear brake pipes and replaced them with copper. The brake hoses were a little tired so I plumped for a braided set too.
While there I replaced the slider bolts and rubbers. Obviously along with the discs and pads.
Ok, I’m not going to itemise each part I replace as I have binned most of the receipts now. But I can say if you shop sensibly very little for these cars is expensive. Obviously don’t buy genuine. Most genuine parts are made by reputable companies like Lemforder, Mann, Bosch, so buy these straight from the manufacturer.
I can tell you I knocked the car down to about 3K and have now spent about six hundred quid on parts.
I think around 3 and a half isn’t much for this hell of a car.
Yes I prefer the earlier 7. The E38 is a pretty car. But this is my daily. I need a relatively economical car. More on that later.
I did however do my research, yes the E65 does suffer from some electrical gremlins. But mostly on the prefacelift model up to 2006. Hence mine being an early post facelift model.
I can tell you I knocked the car down to about 3K and have now spent about six hundred quid on parts.
I think around 3 and a half isn’t much for this hell of a car.
Yes I prefer the earlier 7. The E38 is a pretty car. But this is my daily. I need a relatively economical car. More on that later.
I did however do my research, yes the E65 does suffer from some electrical gremlins. But mostly on the prefacelift model up to 2006. Hence mine being an early post facelift model.
Now it was safe to drive, with the brakes, suspension arms and a couple of tyres. I’m now moving on to maintenance. Then I will look at improvement later.
So full service, with air filter, fuel filter, pollen filters and engine oil change. Finally the gearbox is supposedly sealed for life. Frankly though BMW probably thought 135k miles and 12 years was life. It is also leaking a touch from the sump.
The sump is plastic and warps over time. They also have the filter built in. So in the bin it goes.
The oil coming out wasn’t exactly clean so I’m glad I did it.
The undertrays were all then well cleaned. I fitted new fixings as many were missing. 2 quid on eBay for 10.
So full service, with air filter, fuel filter, pollen filters and engine oil change. Finally the gearbox is supposedly sealed for life. Frankly though BMW probably thought 135k miles and 12 years was life. It is also leaking a touch from the sump.
The sump is plastic and warps over time. They also have the filter built in. So in the bin it goes.
The oil coming out wasn’t exactly clean so I’m glad I did it.
The undertrays were all then well cleaned. I fitted new fixings as many were missing. 2 quid on eBay for 10.
The gear “stick” is actually a stalk on the steering wheel. Merc have a very similar system on the ML, S class and other cars. Gives plenty of room for cup holders!
I can see why a 450 quid gearbox service bill would worry you. But I don’t see that as a reason to leave a barge. You could have exactly the same problem with the gearbox in a 3 series.
I can see why a 450 quid gearbox service bill would worry you. But I don’t see that as a reason to leave a barge. You could have exactly the same problem with the gearbox in a 3 series.
Now the general maintenance was out of the way, it was time to start the improvements.
First off the Thermostat has a few stains around it and while the coolant level hasn’t dropped since I have had the car. It still has to go.
I stuck a snap on tester on to see what fault codes were about. The obvious one I was looking for was glow plugs. There has been obvious miss fires when the engine was stone cold. But when I looked all six plugs had stored codes. I suspect this will be the glow plug output stage timer then.
After a bit of research I found it’s under the inlet manifold, along with the glow plugs. Sounds like a plan to change the lot.
I had a current fault code for the egr valve as well. I had a similar fault on the S class years ago, which had turned out to be the valve full of soot.
So time to remove it and have a look.
The valve was really quite blocked up. But the inlet manifold port was even worse.
Looks like I’m going to have to take the manifold off anyway to clean it out.
First off the Thermostat has a few stains around it and while the coolant level hasn’t dropped since I have had the car. It still has to go.
I stuck a snap on tester on to see what fault codes were about. The obvious one I was looking for was glow plugs. There has been obvious miss fires when the engine was stone cold. But when I looked all six plugs had stored codes. I suspect this will be the glow plug output stage timer then.
After a bit of research I found it’s under the inlet manifold, along with the glow plugs. Sounds like a plan to change the lot.
I had a current fault code for the egr valve as well. I had a similar fault on the S class years ago, which had turned out to be the valve full of soot.
So time to remove it and have a look.
The valve was really quite blocked up. But the inlet manifold port was even worse.
Looks like I’m going to have to take the manifold off anyway to clean it out.
I cleaned as much of the muck out as possible and installed this egr delete kit.
What a difference that made. Nothing perceptible when driving. But instantly 8mpg increase. Doesn’t sound a lot I know, but the difference between 32 and 40mpg is quite large savings.
Last thing to make the car get through an MOT. The side lights or angel eyes aren’t working.
When I looked into it this is ridiculous. Front bumper off to replace a bulb!
In that case I decided to get some of the decent quality LED type, that I should never need to change again.
All back together and her first wash in my ownership.
Hi Helix. I’m not sure how you could get worse MPG by deleting the egr so long as it’s done right. The recirculated exhaust gas is not very flammable and is used to lower the temperature of the burn. Basically less efficient but cleaner emissions.
I didn’t clean the manifold out properly at the time as I was waiting for the swirl flap delete kit to turn up.
Speaking of which. Finally my swirl flap delete kit turned up. So along with the glow plugs and control unit it’s now worthwhile taking the manifold off.
Why on earth BMW thought under the inlet manifold was a good place for the glow plugs, or the output stage timer I don’t know. On the similar age Merc diesels the timer is freely accessible and the plugs between the ports.
Anyway off it came. The glow plugs were quite tight but thankfully all came out ok.
The control unit is buried down under all the vacuum pipes and wiring on the side of the block.
When you get the manifold off, you can see why the control unit failed. The swirl flaps leak oil, which drips onto the unit and kills it.
Thankfully when all back together the misfire from cold has gone. Glow plugs working nicely.
The swirl flap delete is something I was unsure about. The system is there for a reason, but considering they have killed the glow plug timer as well as have the possibility of falling in the engine. I’m glad they have gone.
eBay stuff just like the egr delete, but nicely made and came with all the manifold gaskets.
The manifold itself was full of sludge and soot build up. Scrubbed in the parts wash, then soaked in acid and jet washed. Finally it all seemed to be gone.
Now the only issue with the car is the engine light. This is on because the air mass can tell from the air flow the egr isn’t working. But actually the car is driving better than ever.
As I think you can see. Grabbed a quick snap although on a run I have seen it up to 42mpg now.
I didn’t clean the manifold out properly at the time as I was waiting for the swirl flap delete kit to turn up.
Speaking of which. Finally my swirl flap delete kit turned up. So along with the glow plugs and control unit it’s now worthwhile taking the manifold off.
Why on earth BMW thought under the inlet manifold was a good place for the glow plugs, or the output stage timer I don’t know. On the similar age Merc diesels the timer is freely accessible and the plugs between the ports.
Anyway off it came. The glow plugs were quite tight but thankfully all came out ok.
The control unit is buried down under all the vacuum pipes and wiring on the side of the block.
When you get the manifold off, you can see why the control unit failed. The swirl flaps leak oil, which drips onto the unit and kills it.
Thankfully when all back together the misfire from cold has gone. Glow plugs working nicely.
The swirl flap delete is something I was unsure about. The system is there for a reason, but considering they have killed the glow plug timer as well as have the possibility of falling in the engine. I’m glad they have gone.
eBay stuff just like the egr delete, but nicely made and came with all the manifold gaskets.
The manifold itself was full of sludge and soot build up. Scrubbed in the parts wash, then soaked in acid and jet washed. Finally it all seemed to be gone.
Now the only issue with the car is the engine light. This is on because the air mass can tell from the air flow the egr isn’t working. But actually the car is driving better than ever.
As I think you can see. Grabbed a quick snap although on a run I have seen it up to 42mpg now.
So we will be coming up on a years ownership on the 20th of November. Time for a little update I guess.
The car has performed fantastically. It has never let me down, constantly retuned 40mpg on my commute and 50mpg on longer journeys. Just yesterday I did a 242 mile round trip to see my mother. It really is like driving a sofa.
It is giving me the service warning on the dash now, which I think is a little early. I probably didn’t reset it correctly, although I know it has an oil quality sensor so I will get it changed out soon.
I haven’t had to do much over the year. A pair of rear tyres were the only real expense.
I eventually got round to the remap.
I have used EndTuning a couple of times on my 3 series track car with very good results.
It is also very convenient as you post the control unit off and two days later get it back.
Refitted and no more engine light. A healthy dollop more power and as I said earlier really good cruising mpg. Win win.
I still haven’t got round to the parking brake cable or the rear bushes.
It has been quite a hectic year. We completed a full season of racing in the Boxster and I’m pleased to say cane third in championship, while my wife and I had our first baby.
I have also done a far bit on the other BMW in my life. E36 track car
Obviously somewhere in there I had to squeeze in the day job too. So unfortunately the daily hasn’t had as much work as I would have liked. That being said it has asked for nothing.
I have started the gentle tidy up though.
One rear ashtray wouldn’t shut and the door card screw covers were missing. After a hunt through the eBay I found some replacements.
Next month I will need to do the service and can see a few other bits being done at the same time.
The car has performed fantastically. It has never let me down, constantly retuned 40mpg on my commute and 50mpg on longer journeys. Just yesterday I did a 242 mile round trip to see my mother. It really is like driving a sofa.
It is giving me the service warning on the dash now, which I think is a little early. I probably didn’t reset it correctly, although I know it has an oil quality sensor so I will get it changed out soon.
I haven’t had to do much over the year. A pair of rear tyres were the only real expense.
I eventually got round to the remap.
I have used EndTuning a couple of times on my 3 series track car with very good results.
It is also very convenient as you post the control unit off and two days later get it back.
Refitted and no more engine light. A healthy dollop more power and as I said earlier really good cruising mpg. Win win.
I still haven’t got round to the parking brake cable or the rear bushes.
It has been quite a hectic year. We completed a full season of racing in the Boxster and I’m pleased to say cane third in championship, while my wife and I had our first baby.
I have also done a far bit on the other BMW in my life. E36 track car
Obviously somewhere in there I had to squeeze in the day job too. So unfortunately the daily hasn’t had as much work as I would have liked. That being said it has asked for nothing.
I have started the gentle tidy up though.
One rear ashtray wouldn’t shut and the door card screw covers were missing. After a hunt through the eBay I found some replacements.
Next month I will need to do the service and can see a few other bits being done at the same time.
Honestly I had almost forgotten about the thread myself. Largely because I have had no issues with the car though.
Until now, the N/S angel eye has stopped working already. I’m quite annoyed as I bought LEDs so I wouldn’t have to ever do them again. I guess nothing is built to last even if you don’t buy cheap. The only saving grace is that I wasn’t really happy with how bright they were, so this gives me the chance to up the wattage.
Until now, the N/S angel eye has stopped working already. I’m quite annoyed as I bought LEDs so I wouldn’t have to ever do them again. I guess nothing is built to last even if you don’t buy cheap. The only saving grace is that I wasn’t really happy with how bright they were, so this gives me the chance to up the wattage.
So there we go a year almost since the last update. This is simply because the car is awesome. Nothing to report for a whole year. Now the service is due again.
A bit boring from a car thread point of view I know but the old girl just plods on. I must admit I have almost neglected her. What with the track car, the restoration and a new van project, the daily hadn’t had much of a look in. That being said, it got spoilt on the service. Air con service, brake fluid change and a new air filter.
While I may not have been working on the car much in the last year I have been acquiring parts. The rear bushes and park brake cable still need doing so I decided to go all in. Full rear end refresh. I now have two wheel bearings, two park brake cables, four lower arm bushes and two bottom hub bushes.
All good quality stuff.
Now the restoration is finally sold and out of the way. The track car is back in the garage under its sheet for the winter and the van is a usable substitute daily. I can put the 7 up the end of the drive and pull everything off it.
A bit boring from a car thread point of view I know but the old girl just plods on. I must admit I have almost neglected her. What with the track car, the restoration and a new van project, the daily hadn’t had much of a look in. That being said, it got spoilt on the service. Air con service, brake fluid change and a new air filter.
While I may not have been working on the car much in the last year I have been acquiring parts. The rear bushes and park brake cable still need doing so I decided to go all in. Full rear end refresh. I now have two wheel bearings, two park brake cables, four lower arm bushes and two bottom hub bushes.
All good quality stuff.
Now the restoration is finally sold and out of the way. The track car is back in the garage under its sheet for the winter and the van is a usable substitute daily. I can put the 7 up the end of the drive and pull everything off it.
I might not have brought home all the tools I needed. Wrong size socket for the hub nut was a bit of a boboo. Still I can get the lower arm off and take it to work to press the bushes out when picking up the right tools.
It was the two front bushes in the lower arms that had basically collapsed. There was only a very slight knock, but I’m sure it’s also adding to tyre wear.
I’m not messing around though, replacing all the bushes with original quality or HD (supposedly better than oem)
They did put up a fight, with 2.7 tons needed to break the front bush off.
Finally after an hour or so of grappling the N/S/R arm was done.
Now I just need to get the hub off so I can replace it’s bush, the park brake cable and wheel bearing.
It was the two front bushes in the lower arms that had basically collapsed. There was only a very slight knock, but I’m sure it’s also adding to tyre wear.
I’m not messing around though, replacing all the bushes with original quality or HD (supposedly better than oem)
They did put up a fight, with 2.7 tons needed to break the front bush off.
Finally after an hour or so of grappling the N/S/R arm was done.
Now I just need to get the hub off so I can replace it’s bush, the park brake cable and wheel bearing.
Edited by Hamster69 on Sunday 1st November 18:59
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