GSXR-1000 K5 Broken Clutch Cable
Discussion
Hi All,
Another problem beset my K5 as I went for a ride today. The cable has snapped (see picture). I would like to ask the following:
1) Is there a part missing on the threaded bit which allowed the cable to fray over time and become damaged?
2) Should I replace with genuine Suzuki cable or are pattern cables OK?
3) Any recommended suppliers?
Thanks.
Another problem beset my K5 as I went for a ride today. The cable has snapped (see picture). I would like to ask the following:
1) Is there a part missing on the threaded bit which allowed the cable to fray over time and become damaged?
2) Should I replace with genuine Suzuki cable or are pattern cables OK?
3) Any recommended suppliers?
Thanks.
1) All looks fine to me.
2) I'm sure pattern are fine but I don't know the price difference and whether it's worth going for a pattern part
3) http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/ Can't find anything on their online bit which is strange (maybe I've not looked hard enough) but give them a call
Clutch cables are known for going on the K5.
2) I'm sure pattern are fine but I don't know the price difference and whether it's worth going for a pattern part
3) http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/ Can't find anything on their online bit which is strange (maybe I've not looked hard enough) but give them a call
Clutch cables are known for going on the K5.
It should look like that ie no cover. Ideally you want the cable to be in the middle of the plastic surround. It looks like its been rubbing on yours maybe due to the fact its broken.
Just route it the same, it tells you how to set it up in the handbook or did for my K7 anyone could do it. Just go on price for the gen / non gen part its just a cable at the end of the day.
Just route it the same, it tells you how to set it up in the handbook or did for my K7 anyone could do it. Just go on price for the gen / non gen part its just a cable at the end of the day.
theshrew said:
It should look like that ie no cover. Ideally you want the cable to be in the middle of the plastic surround. It looks like its been rubbing on yours maybe due to the fact its broken.
Just route it the same, it tells you how to set it up in the handbook or did for my K7 anyone could do it. Just go on price for the gen / non gen part its just a cable at the end of the day.
Thanks for this.Just route it the same, it tells you how to set it up in the handbook or did for my K7 anyone could do it. Just go on price for the gen / non gen part its just a cable at the end of the day.
There doesn't seem to be plastic surround - just a cable going into the metal thread. I agree that the cable has been rubbing on the metal thread and has worn over time and broke.
I did have a low side on that side two years ago and wondering whether I 'lost' a part at that time that I did not realise (i.e. the plastic part that protects the cable?).
Ordered a genuine cable from Robinsons today for £29 delivered. Will take fairings off and try and fit myself.
I know I will need to remove the clutch cover, but will it require an oil change too? Also, how difficult is it to remove the threaded bit the cable goes into?
I have never done this job and don't want to mess it up, but do want to have a go if it's as straightforward as it sounds.
I know I will need to remove the clutch cover, but will it require an oil change too? Also, how difficult is it to remove the threaded bit the cable goes into?
I have never done this job and don't want to mess it up, but do want to have a go if it's as straightforward as it sounds.
Why do you think you need to remove the clutch cover? The tank will need lifting and some plastic panels may need removing.
Usually when you remove the clutch lever to free the cable you'll have enough slack to detach the cable at the other end. If not then you just remove the lever arm from the splines making sure the tension spring is correctly positioned when you replace it.
Usually when you remove the clutch lever to free the cable you'll have enough slack to detach the cable at the other end. If not then you just remove the lever arm from the splines making sure the tension spring is correctly positioned when you replace it.
Why would you need to open up the clutch cover?
It looks like you should be able to change the cable without disturbing anything else - as long as you can work out the difference between a fully engaged clutch and a fully dis-engaged clutch then all is good, if this all gobbly-de-gook then book it in to a local shop and pay an extra 60 quid.
It looks like you should be able to change the cable without disturbing anything else - as long as you can work out the difference between a fully engaged clutch and a fully dis-engaged clutch then all is good, if this all gobbly-de-gook then book it in to a local shop and pay an extra 60 quid.
JimClark49 said:
Ordered a genuine cable from Robinsons today for £29 delivered. Will take fairings off and try and fit myself.
I know I will need to remove the clutch cover, but will it require an oil change too? Also, how difficult is it to remove the threaded bit the cable goes into?
I have never done this job and don't want to mess it up, but do want to have a go if it's as straightforward as it sounds.
As all the above posts have said you do not have to remove the clutch cover ! it is just a case of removing the old cable and replacing with the new you should not require to take any parts off the engine to do this.I know I will need to remove the clutch cover, but will it require an oil change too? Also, how difficult is it to remove the threaded bit the cable goes into?
I have never done this job and don't want to mess it up, but do want to have a go if it's as straightforward as it sounds.
Edited by dc2rr07 on Tuesday 28th March 23:02
blade7 said:
My K6 was still on it's original cable at 24k.
Someone pass me a blue peter badge.Things like the bike being used during the winter or being jet washed a lot during it's early life can affect things like clutch cables.
I would assume your bikes like my own are not used in wet weather or during the winter.
Biker's Nemesis said:
blade7 said:
My K6 was still on it's original cable at 24k.
Someone pass me a blue peter badge.Things like the bike being used during the winter or being jet washed a lot during it's early life can affect things like clutch cables.
I would assume your bikes like my own are not used in wet weather or during the winter.
cmaguire said:
Why do you think you need to remove the clutch cover? The tank will need lifting and some plastic panels may need removing.
Usually when you remove the clutch lever to free the cable you'll have enough slack to detach the cable at the other end. If not then you just remove the lever arm from the splines making sure the tension spring is correctly positioned when you replace it.
You *might* get lucky and be able to tape the new cable to the old and just pull it through.Usually when you remove the clutch lever to free the cable you'll have enough slack to detach the cable at the other end. If not then you just remove the lever arm from the splines making sure the tension spring is correctly positioned when you replace it.
From a bloke that used to pull cable in for a living
I now have the OE cable - and the threaded part has no plastic bit around the metal thread to protect the cable from rubbing with the inside of the thread. I am assuming this is normal?
Bike is used all year round including wet/salty weather and I have taken it from 11k to 33k miles in 3 years. I think the wear is probably due to age rather than the cable rubbing unnecessarily. However, I just dont want any premature wear again.
Bike is used all year round including wet/salty weather and I have taken it from 11k to 33k miles in 3 years. I think the wear is probably due to age rather than the cable rubbing unnecessarily. However, I just dont want any premature wear again.
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