Oil Change - Terminal Clutch Slip Within 30 Mins
Discussion
trickywoo said:
LimSlip said:
Except that doesn't bang any nails in. Oils that don't have the viscosity modifiers that cause wet clutches to slip can be used.
Ignoring shear issues, yes you are absolutely correct.I’ll add you to the list.
I'm not advocating the use of car oils in bikes, only suggesting that the choice of CERTAIN car oils for use in a bike may not be quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested.
black-k1 said:
But surely the sheer issues would have been addressed with overly regular oil changes, would they not?
I'm not advocating the use of car oils in bikes, only suggesting that the choice of CERTAIN car oils for use in a bike may not be quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested.
Your experience of running a BMW probably colours your experience with the rate of oil use meaning it’s constantly refreshed via top ups.I'm not advocating the use of car oils in bikes, only suggesting that the choice of CERTAIN car oils for use in a bike may not be quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested.
There are other issues with car oils in a bike engine. Why would you unless you have to?
Nothing wrong at all with using a good quality car oil in an older BMW boxer engine as the clutch is a separate dry clutch and the gearbox has its own oil supply. Pretty good idea in fact as you avoid the silly high prices for motorbike specific oil. Same with Harleys and any other bike with separate clutch and gearbox oil, like many old classic bikes.
trickywoo said:
black-k1 said:
But surely the sheer issues would have been addressed with overly regular oil changes, would they not?
I'm not advocating the use of car oils in bikes, only suggesting that the choice of CERTAIN car oils for use in a bike may not be quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested.
Your experience of running a BMW probably colours your experience with the rate of oil use meaning it’s constantly refreshed via top ups.I'm not advocating the use of car oils in bikes, only suggesting that the choice of CERTAIN car oils for use in a bike may not be quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested.
There are other issues with car oils in a bike engine. Why would you unless you have to?
I agree with the "why would you" question as any cost advantage is complete peanuts compared to other running costs.
My K1300S Sport did 56k miles in my ownership and NEVER needed a top up between services. (The MotorSport did get through an extra liter per 6000 miles.)
But, all of this is irrelevant and not part of my reason for posting.
The video posted as "a final nail" clearly stated the other issues were in relation to shearing. The OP said "I change it every 200-300 miles". I really don't think shearing is an issue in 200 - 300 miles of use of any oil that meets the specification requirements for the engine.
Again, I still wouldn't choose to use a car oil in a motorcycle (with a wet clutch and integral gear box - happy to do so in dry clutch non-unit engines) but as I said, doing so is not quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested
black-k1 said:
The video posted as "a final nail" clearly stated the other issues were in relation to shearing. The OP said "I change it every 200-300 miles". I really don't think shearing is an issue in 200 - 300 miles of use of any oil that meets the specification requirements for the engine.
Yeah, the OP did really well here.black-k1 said:
I agree with the "why would you" question as any cost advantage is complete peanuts compared to other running costs.
My K1300S Sport did 56k miles in my ownership and NEVER needed a top up between services.
The video posted as "a final nail" clearly stated the other issues were in relation to shearing. The OP said "I change it every 200-300 miles". I really don't think shearing is an issue in 200 - 300 miles of use of any oil that meets the specification requirements for the engine.
Again, I still wouldn't choose to use a car oil in a motorcycle (with a wet clutch and integral gear box - happy to do so in dry clutch non-unit engines) but as I said, doing so is not quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested
But your BMW doesn't require an oil change after a few hours - this is an enduro bikeMy K1300S Sport did 56k miles in my ownership and NEVER needed a top up between services.
The video posted as "a final nail" clearly stated the other issues were in relation to shearing. The OP said "I change it every 200-300 miles". I really don't think shearing is an issue in 200 - 300 miles of use of any oil that meets the specification requirements for the engine.
Again, I still wouldn't choose to use a car oil in a motorcycle (with a wet clutch and integral gear box - happy to do so in dry clutch non-unit engines) but as I said, doing so is not quite as "hilarious" as some in this thread appear to have suggested
If any had the brains to google they'd find the answer that many run car oil with no ill effects in dirt bikes used for off roading rather than competition
As I mentioned many times I only changed 3 out of spec clutch plates and carried on running the car oil, I still am and it's still running fine - I think that's 4 years now
The only problem was the BIKE fully synthetic causing the out of spec clutch to slip
Running a 450 KTM for 4 years and only buying £30 of clutch plates is doing far better than most.
trickywoo said:
Can't resist banging a nail in the coffin of the car oil in a bike is fine idiots.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPN6InDHE4k
Yes that seems highly technical, I must have missed the bit where he tested them or reported any test datahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPN6InDHE4k
Here is a link to an old test that MCN reported on - where a Physics Professor actually tested them
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
KTMsm said:
Yes that seems highly technical, I must have missed the bit where he tested them or reported any test data
Here is a link to an old test that MCN reported on - where a Physics Professor actually tested them
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
So assuming the oil hasn't changed in 27 years, the viscosity change is marginal... But the friction modifiers? Less so.Here is a link to an old test that MCN reported on - where a Physics Professor actually tested them
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
Also, why would just about every oil brand have a page about it on their website?
Why wouldn't some firm just whack "car and motorcycle" on their oil and clean up the market? It's not some crazy conspiracy.
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