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Just to check I'd have a quick measure of the exposed fork leg and compare against another bike of the same type. If you do this make sure the bikes are both either held upright or both on the side stand of course.
Do you have a picture of the bike at rest in it's normal position?
edit: ignore last line, just seen the other pictures.
It looks the normal height at the front if you compare the height of the mudguard tip against the other features at the front of the engine.
further edit: I'd be looking very carefully at the fork and frame to see if it's got a very slight bend in it. If it hasn't then to me it looks like the mudguard runs very close under full compression and any slight deformation could cause it to catch. Look again at the picture of the standard bike. It has to have that much fork travel.
If the fork and frame really are straight Honda could be very interested in hearing about this. It's got recall written all over it in my opinion.
Do you have a picture of the bike at rest in it's normal position?
edit: ignore last line, just seen the other pictures.
It looks the normal height at the front if you compare the height of the mudguard tip against the other features at the front of the engine.
further edit: I'd be looking very carefully at the fork and frame to see if it's got a very slight bend in it. If it hasn't then to me it looks like the mudguard runs very close under full compression and any slight deformation could cause it to catch. Look again at the picture of the standard bike. It has to have that much fork travel.
If the fork and frame really are straight Honda could be very interested in hearing about this. It's got recall written all over it in my opinion.
Edited by Garybee on Sunday 24th March 22:18
So it's at the garage and I've been told the front forks are slightly bent where they meet the housing. I've also been told the rear shock is leaking as well (although I do want to check this as I accidentally over poured petrol last week and it mysteriously drained through somewhere and formed a sizeable puddle under the bike so I think it could actually be petrol). On top of that I need consumables like the chain, sprocket and new front disc and pads. I'm not looking forward to the bill.
Bumblebee7 said:
...as I accidentally over poured petrol last week and it mysteriously drained through somewhere and formed a sizeable puddle under the bike so I think it could actually be petrol.....
Often in the petrol cap recess theres a drainhole which connects to a rubber hose that routes down to exit just underneath the bike to cater for just such overfills. Designed to prevent minor overfills of petrol splashing all over your tank and down the side of a hot engine and exhaust.So the professional verdict so far has been:
-New chrome forks and seals needed (old ones creased and most likely cause of damage)
-Rear shock leaking and needs replacing (came as a surprise)
-Chain and sprocket need replacing (also expecting this would need to be done soonish)
-Front disc and pads need replacing (knew this)
-Also I want to raise the rear back to standard height so need the original droplinks
-New front tyre recommended as well, not quite sure why as tread looks fine
All told it's coming in at nearly £1,900 parts and labour not even including the droplinks or tyre. I was even told by the garage they're not sure if it's worth doing the work given the value of the bike (paid £2,750 around 6 months ago).
My opinion is the work is predominantly consumables, just that said consumables when all done at once are fairly expensive. My biggest concern is that there is something else wrong at the front causing the mudguard to hit the radiator. If it's just the forks I think it makes sense to do everything else. I've found many of the parts cheaper online, and am in the process of looking for a local/independent mechanic who won't charge dealer hourly rates and will accept parts that I have sourced. I think the best thing to do for now is to do the fork and seals to verify the front end issue is resolved before carrying out the other works.
-New chrome forks and seals needed (old ones creased and most likely cause of damage)
-Rear shock leaking and needs replacing (came as a surprise)
-Chain and sprocket need replacing (also expecting this would need to be done soonish)
-Front disc and pads need replacing (knew this)
-Also I want to raise the rear back to standard height so need the original droplinks
-New front tyre recommended as well, not quite sure why as tread looks fine
All told it's coming in at nearly £1,900 parts and labour not even including the droplinks or tyre. I was even told by the garage they're not sure if it's worth doing the work given the value of the bike (paid £2,750 around 6 months ago).
My opinion is the work is predominantly consumables, just that said consumables when all done at once are fairly expensive. My biggest concern is that there is something else wrong at the front causing the mudguard to hit the radiator. If it's just the forks I think it makes sense to do everything else. I've found many of the parts cheaper online, and am in the process of looking for a local/independent mechanic who won't charge dealer hourly rates and will accept parts that I have sourced. I think the best thing to do for now is to do the fork and seals to verify the front end issue is resolved before carrying out the other works.
Bumblebee7 said:
So the professional verdict so far has been:
-New chrome forks and seals needed (old ones creased and most likely cause of damage)
-Rear shock leaking and needs replacing (came as a surprise)
-Chain and sprocket need replacing (also expecting this would need to be done soonish)
-Front disc and pads need replacing (knew this)
-Also I want to raise the rear back to standard height so need the original droplinks
-New front tyre recommended as well, not quite sure why as tread looks fine
All told it's coming in at nearly £1,900 parts and labour not even including the droplinks or tyre. I was even told by the garage they're not sure if it's worth doing the work given the value of the bike (paid £2,750 around 6 months ago).
My opinion is the work is predominantly consumables, just that said consumables when all done at once are fairly expensive. My biggest concern is that there is something else wrong at the front causing the mudguard to hit the radiator. If it's just the forks I think it makes sense to do everything else. I've found many of the parts cheaper online, and am in the process of looking for a local/independent mechanic who won't charge dealer hourly rates and will accept parts that I have sourced. I think the best thing to do for now is to do the fork and seals to verify the front end issue is resolved before carrying out the other works.
Without wanting to sound like a patronising prick - the next time you buy a bike, take someone with you who knows a thing or two. It sounds like you were sold an absolute pup. -New chrome forks and seals needed (old ones creased and most likely cause of damage)
-Rear shock leaking and needs replacing (came as a surprise)
-Chain and sprocket need replacing (also expecting this would need to be done soonish)
-Front disc and pads need replacing (knew this)
-Also I want to raise the rear back to standard height so need the original droplinks
-New front tyre recommended as well, not quite sure why as tread looks fine
All told it's coming in at nearly £1,900 parts and labour not even including the droplinks or tyre. I was even told by the garage they're not sure if it's worth doing the work given the value of the bike (paid £2,750 around 6 months ago).
My opinion is the work is predominantly consumables, just that said consumables when all done at once are fairly expensive. My biggest concern is that there is something else wrong at the front causing the mudguard to hit the radiator. If it's just the forks I think it makes sense to do everything else. I've found many of the parts cheaper online, and am in the process of looking for a local/independent mechanic who won't charge dealer hourly rates and will accept parts that I have sourced. I think the best thing to do for now is to do the fork and seals to verify the front end issue is resolved before carrying out the other works.
Do you have any biker friends that can help you out? All those jobs are doable by a home mechanic with the right tools.
ETA: If it's a Honda dealer and they've diagnosed the forks as the issue, I would suggest that they've inspected the frame. It doesn't take that much to bend a pair of forks, but does take a serious smash to bend the frame. Someone has had a minor bump and bent the forks, that's probably all the problem is.
Edited by cbmotorsport on Tuesday 26th March 10:59
Edited by cbmotorsport on Tuesday 26th March 10:59
Just to say, A M Phillpot in Luton will straighten fork stanchions cheaply for you, provided the chrome is still good.
They did a Kawasaki one for me whilst I waited, something like £30 including a polish which was great as it had a dog leg in it.
Call them first as sending them can take a while to return. New seals are cheap too, so not a big deal to sort out. Check the bushes too.
They did a Kawasaki one for me whilst I waited, something like £30 including a polish which was great as it had a dog leg in it.
Call them first as sending them can take a while to return. New seals are cheap too, so not a big deal to sort out. Check the bushes too.
cbmotorsport said:
Without wanting to sound like a patronising prick - the next time you buy a bike, take someone with you who knows a thing or two. It sounds like you were sold an absolute pup.
Do you have any biker friends that can help you out? All those jobs are doable by a home mechanic with the right tools.
ETA: If it's a Honda dealer and they've diagnosed the forks as the issue, I would suggest that they've inspected the frame. It doesn't take that much to bend a pair of forks, but does take a serious smash to bend the frame. Someone has had a minor bump and bent the forks, that's probably all the problem is.
I've had the bike 6 months and been very pleased with it. I knew the chain/sprocket and front brakes would need doing so really just the rear shock came as a surprise. I didn't notice anything out of place on the front fork, and perhaps my emergency braking on a speed bump aggravated an existing crease as the issue came all of a sudden and has repeated itself ever since. As the bike rode fine for ages I'm prepared to give the previous owner the benefit of the doubt that he may not even have been aware of any issue.Do you have any biker friends that can help you out? All those jobs are doable by a home mechanic with the right tools.
ETA: If it's a Honda dealer and they've diagnosed the forks as the issue, I would suggest that they've inspected the frame. It doesn't take that much to bend a pair of forks, but does take a serious smash to bend the frame. Someone has had a minor bump and bent the forks, that's probably all the problem is.
I've been recommended an independent mechanic who will look at the fork but is fully booked up until next week. He mentioned user a laser tool to check it's in order and that he'll thoroughly inspect it and provide a quote before I go ahead with any work. He didn't sound especially cheap for this, but I mentioned some of the other works and he sounded more reasonably priced for those than the dealer.
Before I do anything else I want the front end sorted and then I'll sort out the rear shock and other consumables.
Am I understanding correctly? The impact (presumably) was so severe it bent the fork stanchions, but the frame is still straight? Did the "professional" actually check the frame? Only if it's bent, this is all moot. It's not an economical repair.
It sounds like you already know that you need to get a breaker to keep the costs down, try eBay. Rear shocks often come up as people "upgrade". Front suspension is a bit trickier. The rest of the parts you can source online from reputable companies like Wemoto. I'd personally do the front tyre, the last thing you'll want after this is to be back the garage in a month, and I doubt they've reason to lie.
To keep costs down I'd suggest a bit of DIY, either you or a mate if you're not well placed. You can do the front pads and discs with a very small number of tools. The chain and sprockets are bit more difficult, but specialist tools are limited to a chain breaker/riveter (angle grinder > breaker), which can be purchased for around £20. After you've sourced components that could be £300 off that bill for an afternoon's work.
Positives. You know what you're doing, you've paid £2750 and it's worth bugger all broken so you know you need to fix it. Suspension rebuilds/brakes/tyres are all consumables. You would have had to pay these bills eventually, it's bad timing but it's not necessarily a fresh expense. Lastly, your bike is fairly generic, and simple, if you remain patient you'll get a huge saving on both parts and labour against that bill.
It sounds like you already know that you need to get a breaker to keep the costs down, try eBay. Rear shocks often come up as people "upgrade". Front suspension is a bit trickier. The rest of the parts you can source online from reputable companies like Wemoto. I'd personally do the front tyre, the last thing you'll want after this is to be back the garage in a month, and I doubt they've reason to lie.
To keep costs down I'd suggest a bit of DIY, either you or a mate if you're not well placed. You can do the front pads and discs with a very small number of tools. The chain and sprockets are bit more difficult, but specialist tools are limited to a chain breaker/riveter (angle grinder > breaker), which can be purchased for around £20. After you've sourced components that could be £300 off that bill for an afternoon's work.
Positives. You know what you're doing, you've paid £2750 and it's worth bugger all broken so you know you need to fix it. Suspension rebuilds/brakes/tyres are all consumables. You would have had to pay these bills eventually, it's bad timing but it's not necessarily a fresh expense. Lastly, your bike is fairly generic, and simple, if you remain patient you'll get a huge saving on both parts and labour against that bill.
Prof Prolapse said:
Am I understanding correctly? The impact (presumably) was so severe it bent the fork stanchions, but the frame is still straight? Did the "professional" actually check the frame? Only if it's bent, this is all moot. It's not an economical repair.
It sounds like you already know that you need to get a breaker to keep the costs down, try eBay. Rear shocks often come up as people "upgrade". Front suspension is a bit trickier. The rest of the parts you can source online from reputable companies like Wemoto. I'd personally do the front tyre, the last thing you'll want after this is to be back the garage in a month, and I doubt they've reason to lie.
To keep costs down I'd suggest a bit of DIY, either you or a mate if you're not well placed. You can do the front pads and discs with a very small number of tools. The chain and sprockets are bit more difficult, but specialist tools are limited to a chain breaker/riveter (angle grinder > breaker), which can be purchased for around £20. After you've sourced components that could be £300 off that bill for an afternoon's work.
Positives. You know what you're doing, you've paid £2750 and it's worth bugger all broken so you know you need to fix it. Suspension rebuilds/brakes/tyres are all consumables. You would have had to pay these bills eventually, it's bad timing but it's not necessarily a fresh expense. Lastly, your bike is fairly generic, and simple, if you remain patient you'll get a huge saving on both parts and labour against that bill.
Thanks, regarding the possibility of the frame being bent- this is actually the main reason (other than cost) that I want to avoid the dealer. I asked if it was just the forks that needed replacing and they said yes. I asked if they had checked the yoke and frame to which he replied that he'd only had a quick look and wasn't sure! And I actually paid for the diagnosis! As you've said, it's not an economical repair if other work needs doing so I want to sort the front fork out (by someone who knows what they're doing) and then figure out what to do from there depending on the outcome.It sounds like you already know that you need to get a breaker to keep the costs down, try eBay. Rear shocks often come up as people "upgrade". Front suspension is a bit trickier. The rest of the parts you can source online from reputable companies like Wemoto. I'd personally do the front tyre, the last thing you'll want after this is to be back the garage in a month, and I doubt they've reason to lie.
To keep costs down I'd suggest a bit of DIY, either you or a mate if you're not well placed. You can do the front pads and discs with a very small number of tools. The chain and sprockets are bit more difficult, but specialist tools are limited to a chain breaker/riveter (angle grinder > breaker), which can be purchased for around £20. After you've sourced components that could be £300 off that bill for an afternoon's work.
Positives. You know what you're doing, you've paid £2750 and it's worth bugger all broken so you know you need to fix it. Suspension rebuilds/brakes/tyres are all consumables. You would have had to pay these bills eventually, it's bad timing but it's not necessarily a fresh expense. Lastly, your bike is fairly generic, and simple, if you remain patient you'll get a huge saving on both parts and labour against that bill.
As mentioned there are places around that can straighten and even rechrome fork staunchons. I know Wemoto sell aftermarket ones which might be cheaper than Honda ones.
If you fancy learning a bit about home mechanicing, and especially if you have any friends who know what they're doing, would could treat this as a great opportunity to learn. Most of those jobs are actually relatively easy. I first got in to spannering by replacing piston rings, valves and valve stem guides on a knackered engine that was going to cost way more than the bike was worth to get someone else to fix. A Haynes manual or official workshop manual will usually break it all down in to relatively easy to follow steps, and the only special tools you're likely to need for any of that will be a tool to stop the fork internals rotating, although I found an electric impact driver usually does the job.
If you fancy learning a bit about home mechanicing, and especially if you have any friends who know what they're doing, would could treat this as a great opportunity to learn. Most of those jobs are actually relatively easy. I first got in to spannering by replacing piston rings, valves and valve stem guides on a knackered engine that was going to cost way more than the bike was worth to get someone else to fix. A Haynes manual or official workshop manual will usually break it all down in to relatively easy to follow steps, and the only special tools you're likely to need for any of that will be a tool to stop the fork internals rotating, although I found an electric impact driver usually does the job.
If you are looking for used parts, check whether the part is used on other models. Fowlers have an online parts catalogue that allows you to search for other bikes that use the same part number. For example, the NC750S suspension links are the same. Also check the new price against the price from a breaker.
RizzoTheRat said:
As mentioned there are places around that can straighten and even rechrome fork staunchons. I know Wemoto sell aftermarket ones which might be cheaper than Honda ones.
If you fancy learning a bit about home mechanicing, and especially if you have any friends who know what they're doing, would could treat this as a great opportunity to learn. Most of those jobs are actually relatively easy. I first got in to spannering by replacing piston rings, valves and valve stem guides on a knackered engine that was going to cost way more than the bike was worth to get someone else to fix. A Haynes manual or official workshop manual will usually break it all down in to relatively easy to follow steps, and the only special tools you're likely to need for any of that will be a tool to stop the fork internals rotating, although I found an electric impact driver usually does the job.
Yep exactly. Where are you based? Maybe a friendly local BB poster can help wield some spanners. It's not difficult - all bolt on / off stuff and good to learn..If you fancy learning a bit about home mechanicing, and especially if you have any friends who know what they're doing, would could treat this as a great opportunity to learn. Most of those jobs are actually relatively easy. I first got in to spannering by replacing piston rings, valves and valve stem guides on a knackered engine that was going to cost way more than the bike was worth to get someone else to fix. A Haynes manual or official workshop manual will usually break it all down in to relatively easy to follow steps, and the only special tools you're likely to need for any of that will be a tool to stop the fork internals rotating, although I found an electric impact driver usually does the job.
You don't need a fancy laser level to check the forks. It's going to be pretty damm obvious if it's bent when compared to a straight edge or removed. Or just remove the front wheel, measure the distance between the fork bottoms at the wheel spindle, loosen the clamps for the yokes on on one fork, rotate 180 degrees and then measure that distance again. Or try and fit the wheel.
£1900? And no mention of new mudguard?
Is that for the whole fork or just the chrome leg? Might be worth looking at getting new internals for the forks while you are at it- there are kits or specialists that will set springs to your weight and add preload and rebound adjustment. You're going to be having the labour to remove/refit strip down anyway so maybe a few hundred extra on uprated internals is worth looking at?
On the frame I would be looking for any flaked, cracked or bubbled paint. I know someone who swore by using a piece of fine silk to feel for damage - apparently it emphasises small bumps/imperfections. I guess wipe it down with something to clean it first.
Is that for the whole fork or just the chrome leg? Might be worth looking at getting new internals for the forks while you are at it- there are kits or specialists that will set springs to your weight and add preload and rebound adjustment. You're going to be having the labour to remove/refit strip down anyway so maybe a few hundred extra on uprated internals is worth looking at?
On the frame I would be looking for any flaked, cracked or bubbled paint. I know someone who swore by using a piece of fine silk to feel for damage - apparently it emphasises small bumps/imperfections. I guess wipe it down with something to clean it first.
Triaguar said:
What about part x'ing it and putting the £1900 towards something else
It's a tempting excuse, and I've even had a quick peruse and there's one particular bike I really like the look of- a yellow CB650F on a 65 plate and even the number plate is the first 3 letters of my very rare surname all for £4299, low miles and being sold by a Honda dealer (everything on it looks immaculate).I think my plan however should be to repair the bike. Firstly I need to sort out the fork stanchions and see if the issue with hitting the rad is resolved, that's key. After that it's a bunch of consumables that I can hopefully get done cheaper or even attempt myself.
I've had a look online at a lot of videos and I think I would be tempted to try most repairs on the bike, except the fork stanchions for now. It doesn't look crazy difficult but there are a few points where it could be tricky and I don't want to get it wrong. Hopefully I'll get a proper diagnosis on Monday and fingers crossed it's not too long before I'm back on the bike.
On another note, one of the main reasons for buying a used bike was because I commute into central London and intentionally chose an older bike hoping it would be less of a theft target. And for my current commute it's very comfy and I'm really loving the frunk for putting my lunch and other bits into.
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