The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
If the aim is to get a full licence, do it sooner rather than later. The training is necessary imo having done the 125 route you're suggesting. I was doing no more than 40mph routes on my 125. When I did the full licence riding was second nature. It was just training to do the test and more life savers etc so there are benefits.
The amount of training you get at a CBT is not enough especially for a years worth of commuting and faster speeds as you're suggesting.
See how you get on with the CBT anyway. If you find it relatively easy move on to do the full licence.
The amount of training you get at a CBT is not enough especially for a years worth of commuting and faster speeds as you're suggesting.
See how you get on with the CBT anyway. If you find it relatively easy move on to do the full licence.
horsemeatscandal said:
The light to indicate the traction control is off on my bike keeps coming on, seemingly randomly. I turn it back on, it turns itself off again, then maybe back on. My old bike didn't have TC so I'm not familiar with how it's supposed to work. Will check the book tonight and/or will mention at 600 mile service. Any ideas?
MY2019 Honda CB650R.
Only the TC light? When my Triumph's gear position indicator stopped working it illuminated the TC light and the engine management light.MY2019 Honda CB650R.
Edited by gareth_r on Wednesday 5th February 11:43
little security question.
When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the b
ds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)
When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the b
ds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)gareth_r said:
Only the TC light? When my Triumph's gear position indicator stopped working it illuminated the TC light and the engine management light.
Yeah, just TC off light. It looks like there's a TC on light too but I've never seen that illuminated, can just see the outline of it. Edited by gareth_r on Wednesday 5th February 11:43
Only picked the thing up last week so hopefully isn't anything significant.
A500leroy said:
little security question.
When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the bds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)
I have stopped using a disk lock as I have almost killed myself trying to move the bike with it still on When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the b
ds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)
I use one of these front brake and throttle locks and then a chain.Ultimately it is a deterrent, if they are committed to getting your bike, no amount of security will stop them, you can just slow them down. Also depends what is stated in your insurance in terms of security requirements.
Matt230 said:
Does anyone use a camera for safety reasons, i don't mean for Youtube bragging...
I have a GoPro and a Chesty mount from skiing but wondered if there was a better more obvious solution?
Matt
I had a GoPro mounted on the bike (didn't fancy the idea of a helmet mount) and I was always either forgetting to turn it on; or turn it off - hours of footage of garage walls. I now have an Innov system mounted on the bike. The recording unit is under the seat and the camera is just a lipstick-sized thngy that you wouldn't really notice is there unless you looked carefully for it. Never had to use it 'in evidence' but nice to know it's there. Switches on and off with the ignition. The camera quality is fine but the sound is crap, even with an external mic. You certainly wouldn't want to show video and recorded sound as a record of a trip as the sound's so bad...but fine for its intended purpose. I still have the GoPro and would use it on the rare occasions I'd want to record a ride. I have a GoPro and a Chesty mount from skiing but wondered if there was a better more obvious solution?
Matt
A500leroy said:
little security question.
When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the bds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)
I’m not sure I understand the question. Option 2 looks like a sub-set of option 1 only using a thinner chain and not using the U lock. (I assume you don’t mean the chain is JUST around the frame as if it’s not to some local “roadside furniture” or through a moving bike part then it’s pointless!)When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the b
ds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)The more security items you add the less likely the bike is to be nicked. Securing it to something solid like a lamp post is very worthwhile as it stops the bike simply being picked up and dumped in a van. Beyond that, bigger, heavier, thicker is generally better though ensuring the likes of locks and chains are not sat on the ground is also worthwhile.
Remember that you have to carry all the security you’ll be using, put it on the bike and take it off the bike. All of that can be a real challenge when you’re in a hurry and it’s pissing down with rain.
black-k1 said:
A500leroy said:
little security question.
When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the bds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)
I’m not sure I understand the question. Option 2 looks like a sub-set of option 1 only using a thinner chain and not using the U lock. (I assume you don’t mean the chain is JUST around the frame as if it’s not to some local “roadside furniture” or through a moving bike part then it’s pointless!)When out and about;
Option 1
14mm chain around front forks and wheel, 5mm disc lock,u lock around rear wheel, steering lock and alarm.
Option 2
8mm chain around frame, 5mm disc lock,steering lock and alarm.
Which would slow the b
ds down the most? ( i know it cant be stopped but i guess they wont carry a spare wheel on the off chance in a small northern town?)The more security items you add the less likely the bike is to be nicked. Securing it to something solid like a lamp post is very worthwhile as it stops the bike simply being picked up and dumped in a van. Beyond that, bigger, heavier, thicker is generally better though ensuring the likes of locks and chains are not sat on the ground is also worthwhile.
Remember that you have to carry all the security you’ll be using, put it on the bike and take it off the bike. All of that can be a real challenge when you’re in a hurry and it’s pissing down with rain.
A500leroy said:
i meant chained to something, i think im trying to say is a thinner chain through the frame ( chained to something not movable) better than a thick chain thru the front forks and wheel ( chained to something non movable)
Two locks that can't be cropped / hammered off, so at least they have to make some noise. 16mm U locks aren't expensive. A 5mm disk lock is puny. Obviously if you could lock it to something too.A500leroy said:
i meant chained to something, i think im trying to say is a thinner chain through the frame ( chained to something not movable) better than a thick chain thru the front forks and wheel ( chained to something non movable)
If it's around a solid object then I don't think through the frame or through the wheel makes a substantial difference A thicker chain will generally slow the scum down more.I went for a 13mm lock that fit through frame and rear wheel over 19mm that only fit through wheel.
16mum just a bit too wide for frame on my bike.
Chain goes round something. Also have disc lock, immobiliser, data tag and 2 locked gates between bike and road when at home.
Was also looking at a pinch pin and a 19mm chain to go through a ground anchor but it was all getting a bit expensive by this point , especially as if need secondary gear for when out and about so either thinner chains or carry bags to fit into bike.
16mum just a bit too wide for frame on my bike.
Chain goes round something. Also have disc lock, immobiliser, data tag and 2 locked gates between bike and road when at home.
Was also looking at a pinch pin and a 19mm chain to go through a ground anchor but it was all getting a bit expensive by this point , especially as if need secondary gear for when out and about so either thinner chains or carry bags to fit into bike.
new to biking. I have a question on topboxes + panniers...
Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how st, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50?
- Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how s
t, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50? - Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
edpryce said:
new to biking. I have a question on topboxes + panniers...
Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how st, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50?
- Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
OEM racks and boxes are a lot more expensive usually.Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how s
t, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50? - Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
Givi make racks and fittings for most bikes, reasonably priced. Same with top boxes and panniers.
Loads second hand in good condition on ebay/Facebook marketplace etc.
Kappa (owned by Givi) offer the same type racks/boxes at cheaper prices - dont know why this is. But the 2 are compatible with each other as they use the same fittings.
horsemeatscandal said:
The light to indicate the traction control is off on my bike keeps coming on, seemingly randomly. I turn it back on, it turns itself off again, then maybe back on. My old bike didn't have TC so I'm not familiar with how it's supposed to work. Will check the book tonight and/or will mention at 600 mile service. Any ideas?
MY2019 Honda CB650R.
I figured it out. Conclusion: I'm an idiot. MY2019 Honda CB650R.
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