What the juddering f.... (899 panigale)
Discussion
MrGman said:
Did you have the chain done at 13k or was it just recommended and was never changed?
I think it’s got the wrong length chain, the picture doesn’t show the full extent of just how loose it is as the exhaust is actually holding it up.
It was definitely changed and lubed as I remember the colour was different to the stock chain. They’ll have everything on the service history so I’ll go over that on Monday.I think it’s got the wrong length chain, the picture doesn’t show the full extent of just how loose it is as the exhaust is actually holding it up.
Edited by MrGman on Saturday 10th February 23:06
As well as making sure the chain is correct, also check the front sprocket and torque settings carefully throughout mate.
Worth being sure it's just a maintenance issue and not a half-wit not torquing things up properly that got you here.
Worth being sure it's just a maintenance issue and not a half-wit not torquing things up properly that got you here.
Edited by Prof Prolapse on Sunday 11th February 08:42
He has already said the chain was new at around 13000 miles. To need a new chain at that mileage suggests that the original chain wasn't looked after either. Sprockets we don't know about, so they may have accelerated the demise of the second chain, but new 0/x-ring chains initially stretch a lot even if oiled. My GSXR didn't make the running in service before I had to tension the chain significantly, so over 1000 miles on a new chain without any maintenance and possibly slightly worn sprockets could be all we're seeing here.
I still struggle to see how anyone could walk up to the bike to ride it and not notice that though. Would he notice a flat tyre?
I still struggle to see how anyone could walk up to the bike to ride it and not notice that though. Would he notice a flat tyre?
Ha ha, that is amazing.
I wouldn't see it as unusual for a twin to get through a OEM chain at 13,000 miles or whatever. If that's a replacement chain they must have bunged one in with two too many links in it. This might be the time to stick on that larger rear sprocket - the chain is already there to suit!
Some new chains can require an surprising amount of adjustment after they've gotten a few heat cycles through them.
I wouldn't see it as unusual for a twin to get through a OEM chain at 13,000 miles or whatever. If that's a replacement chain they must have bunged one in with two too many links in it. This might be the time to stick on that larger rear sprocket - the chain is already there to suit!
Some new chains can require an surprising amount of adjustment after they've gotten a few heat cycles through them.
Edited by rodericb on Sunday 11th February 11:41
MrGman said:
im guessing the lack of lube has really taken its toll on the sprockets thus causing the excessive slack, the chain could never wear enough to cause that amount of slack surely?
Nope, that's essentially all chain wear unless there's something else going on. Sprocket wear doesn't really generate extra slack, as it tends to take the teeth off rather than reduce the radius of the sprockets.cmaguire said:
He has already said the chain was new at around 13000 miles. To need a new chain at that mileage suggests that the original chain wasn't looked after either. Sprockets we don't know about, so they may have accelerated the demise of the second chain, but new 0/x-ring chains initially stretch a lot even if oiled. My GSXR didn't make the running in service before I had to tension the chain significantly, so over 1000 miles on a new chain without any maintenance and possibly slightly worn sprockets could be all we're seeing here.
I still struggle to see how anyone could walk up to the bike to ride it and not notice that though. Would he notice a flat tyre?
I would indeed notice flat tyres as tyres on all my cars are checked religiously before I move off, cheers.I still struggle to see how anyone could walk up to the bike to ride it and not notice that though. Would he notice a flat tyre?
The new chain was put on as the bike had new tyres going on and the shop mentioned the chain wasnt looking it’s best. Reading on a Ducati forum people have been getting anywhere from 8-20k between chain replacement, so 13k would seem ok. I have little bike mechanical knowledge so if something is recommended, I have it changed for peace of mind.
The chain issue I didn’t notice until the noise/juddering suddenly happened, which was very obvious, hence the OP, hence it being taken in immediately. In all honesty, it’s never been in my thoughts to check the chain as I didn’t know it had to be checked beyond the servicing schedule and shop recommended lube/check.
I’ll see what they come back with. Gif below to give an idea of just how slack it is. Link will prob expire within a day or so.
Chain slack
For the time being you should just tension it and oil it. Contrary to what some have said regarding too many links etc, I expect if you move the wheel back 5-6mm (around 5 turns on the 8mm adjusters) you'll probably take all that up.
Then replace chain and sprockets at next service unless they give cause for concern ( noisy if you spin the wheel).
I'd be more annoyed by the totally avoidable exhaust/ swingarm damage if it exists
Justices said:
Gif below to give an idea of just how slack it is. Link will prob expire within a day or so.
Chain slack
Ho Lee Sheet. You were lucky to get away without that spitting you off.Chain slack
Looks like incorrect chain was fitted when replaced.
cmaguire said:
For the time being you should just tension it and oil it. Contrary to what some have said regarding too many links etc, I expect if you move the wheel back 5-6mm (around 5 turns on the 8mm adjusters) you'll probably take all that up.
Then replace chain and sprockets at next service unless they give cause for concern ( noisy if you spin the wheel).
I'd be more annoyed by the totally avoidable exhaust/ swingarm damage if it exists
The adjuster looks pretty far out already and I doubt 10mm+ would tension that correctly.Then replace chain and sprockets at next service unless they give cause for concern ( noisy if you spin the wheel).
I'd be more annoyed by the totally avoidable exhaust/ swingarm damage if it exists
Cheers for the advice. ![beer](/inc/images/beer.gif)
Making a list of all this to take down to the shop tomorrow. In my mind, the bike gets light use as it doesn’t go on track and is used primarily for zipping about town to avoid traffic. With this in mind I wouldn’t have expected something like this to occur.
The more replies I read, the more fortunate I feel sitting here as it could have been a lot worse in terms of personal safety!
The Mrs is now proudly wearing a “too dangerous, get rid of that bike” face![wink](/inc/images/wink.gif)
![beer](/inc/images/beer.gif)
Making a list of all this to take down to the shop tomorrow. In my mind, the bike gets light use as it doesn’t go on track and is used primarily for zipping about town to avoid traffic. With this in mind I wouldn’t have expected something like this to occur.
The more replies I read, the more fortunate I feel sitting here as it could have been a lot worse in terms of personal safety!
The Mrs is now proudly wearing a “too dangerous, get rid of that bike” face
![wink](/inc/images/wink.gif)
cmaguire said:
For the time being you should just tension it and oil it. Contrary to what some have said regarding too many links etc, I expect if you move the wheel back 5-6mm (around 5 turns on the 8mm adjusters) you'll probably take all that up.
Then replace chain and sprockets at next service unless they give cause for concern ( noisy if you spin the wheel).
I'd be more annoyed by the totally avoidable exhaust/ swingarm damage if it exists
Then replace chain and sprockets at next service unless they give cause for concern ( noisy if you spin the wheel).
I'd be more annoyed by the totally avoidable exhaust/ swingarm damage if it exists
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