The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread

[Biker 1]

I've had too many crap experiences with cheap st, so am prepared to buy something that lasts & has some features that I probably will never use!

[Krikkit]

I've got a CTEK 0.8A and it does the desulphurisation etc that the bigger ones do, came in the box with the quick disconnect lead to wire in, been great so far.

Even if I was charging a completely flat battery on my bike it'd be full in just over 10 hours, so plenty fast enough for me

[KTMsm]

Krikkit said:

I've got a CTEK 0.8A and it does the desulphurisation etc that the bigger ones do, came in the box with the quick disconnect lead to wire in, been great so far.

Even if I was charging a completely flat battery on my bike it'd be full in just over 10 hours, so plenty fast enough for me

Unless they've recently changed the spec you need to get the 5amp to get all the stages / functions

I bought 3 when Halfords had them on offer at £55 recently

[Krikkit]

KTMsm said:

Unless they've recently changed the spec you need to get the 5amp to get all the stages / functions

Fair enough, not sure what other functions there are/needed.

[Speed addicted]

A500leroy said:

Biker 1 said:

As per suggestions several pages back, I have put down foam rubber interlocking mats on my concrete lean-to floor & have ordered a breathable indoor bike cover, all to combat condensation over winter.
I only ride in the dry, so she could be laid up for a few weeks if the weather carries on like this!
Next upgrade: battery charger. I was thinking CTec, or maybe Noco, & as ever, am asking for the PH Massive view.
I don't want to remove the battery from the bike, & was thinking of attaching the charger for perhaps a few hours during weekends.

Any suggestions??

I use the oxford one and it comes with a snap connector so you just charge over the weekend without the faff of getting to the battery every time.

I use an optimate, had it for about 15 years with no problems. Again there’s a short lead on the bike battery so you don’t have to remove anything.

[Biker 1]

Update: I bought a BS10 Smart charger from Kawasaki website for £52. Apparently it is multi stage like an Optimate & does lead acid or lithium. Includes quick connector.
However, there seems to be conflicting advice about whether to take the battery out of the bike or charge in situ/still connected. Some suggest that the ECU could get fried. Any thoughts????

[black-k1]

I've been using an Optimate on my Kawasaki since 2019 and have never taken the battery out to charge it - no issues with ECU. I can't say that's the way you're supposed to do it but likewise, I have never read anything "official" that says you should take the battery out!

[Onelastattempt]

black-k1 said:

I've been using an Optimate on my Kawasaki since 2019 and have never taken the battery out to charge it - no issues with ECU. I can't say that's the way you're supposed to do it but likewise, I have never read anything "official" that says you should take the battery out!

Same with me, I have been using an older optimate and a Halfords branded trickle charger for over 15 years on various bikes, never had any problem with an ECU. I have never heard any friends say they have had a problem either. I do know someone who takes the battery out in winter as from October to March he does not ride at all, but then again he also removes both wheels to avoid potential flat spots !
The whole point of the lead you connect to your battery permanently is so that you can charge the battery in situ.

[Biker 1]

Thanks yet again - hopefully I won't have to come back here & blame you lot for frying my ECU!

[Orchardab]

Biker 1 said:

Krikkit said:

Can someone explain why you'd want to spend £120+ on a dryer when you could buy a cordless leaf blower and have a chunk of change in your pocket?

No idea! Was quite a cool present from someone for the man who has everything (I wish....).
Anyway, I just checked it out & it does indeed have a removable foam air filter. Also has built in RCD & heat function. Rated at 16A max, but fitted with regular 13A plug. Nothing cooked yet.....

These driers are brilliant, I love mine, quick and easy to dry the areas where the moisture gathers.

[Krikkit]

Biker 1 said:

Thanks yet again - hopefully I won't have to come back here & blame you lot for frying my ECU!

You won't, it's 1000% a non issue

[A500leroy]

Would it be stupid to make a top box out of an old plastic tool box? Think holes in the bottom metal bar inside so the plastic dont shatter when bolted and u shaped bracket underneath to hold it bolted to the carrier.

[Biker 1]

A500leroy said:

Would it be stupid to make a top box out of an old plastic tool box? Think holes in the bottom metal bar inside so the plastic dont shatter when bolted and u shaped bracket underneath to hold it bolted to the carrier.

I suppose it depends on the type & thickness of plastic. Definitely worth thinking of rubber mounting washers/bushes as it will get rattled around & potentially crack/split. Also depends on shape/size: will aerodynamics come into play?? Oh, & get stainless fixings - rust isn't pretty.....
Edit: it potentially look like total pants & any thoughts on a secure lid for it?

[Speed addicted]

A500leroy said:

Would it be stupid to make a top box out of an old plastic tool box? Think holes in the bottom metal bar inside so the plastic dont shatter when bolted and u shaped bracket underneath to hold it bolted to the carrier.

It can be done but I think you’d have problems with cracking at the mounting points over time, plus it won’t be very waterproof.
I’d look out for one of the older givi or kappa top boxes on eBay or Facebook marketplace.
Or if it’s for occasional trips rather than all the time a Lomo roll bag is properly waterproof and £17. They do panniers for £59 too.
https://www.lomo.co.uk/product-category/motorcycle...

Edited by Speed addicted on Tuesday 31st October 18:34

[KTMsm]

A500leroy said:

Would it be stupid to make a top box out of an old plastic tool box? Think holes in the bottom metal bar inside so the plastic dont shatter when bolted and u shaped bracket underneath to hold it bolted to the carrier.

That's exactly what I did

I used a DeWalt drill box because I don't understand the fascination of fitting helmets in top boxes and hate the huge size of them

I just need to carry my coffee, snacks and a waterproof

I stuck a bit of alloy plate to the bottom and used big washers inside, I've have had no problems but I'm not a daily rider

Edited by KTMsm on Tuesday 31st October 18:43

[LosingGrip]

Today was the first time in a long time I've ridden in the rain when its dark. My visor was horrible. Was unable to see anything out of it due to the glare. Any ideas on what to do to help? It's a fairly new Arai. Cleaned regularly. It was safer to ride with it up tonight.

[ThreadKiller]

Good afternoon…
My fuel tap was leaking, from around the on/off/res lever.
So i bought new seals from yambits.
Now… that nut in top of the fuel tap… should it rotate?
(I had to unscrew the tap as a whole unit from the fuel tank).
I.e. so the tap can be held in position and then the nut rotates to tighten to the fuel tank “spiggot”.
Thanks.
Mike

Edited by ThreadKiller on Sunday 12th November 15:32

[ThreadKiller]

Every day’s a school day.
It’s left hand thread.
Mike

[NNH]

ThreadKiller said:

Every day’s a school day.
It’s left hand thread.
Mike

TBF, the clue was in your screenname

[xeny]

ThreadKiller said:

Every day’s a school day.
It’s left hand thread.
Mike

I think the idea of the design is you can turn the nut to release the tap without the tap body having to rotate. This makes it easy to service the fuel filter without disturbing the fuel lines.