Brake line replacement.
Discussion
After a bit of advice please.
I’m currently riding a Tiger 800 XC and so far I’m impressed, although it needs a couple of changes.
The most important one being the front brakes, I find them terrible. For all I know it still has the original brake fluid (8.5K miles) in so that is getting changed, as well as new pads and general clean of the callipers etc.
But, the brake setup in standard form seems really over complicated. The master cylinder is connected to a single brake line which runs to a “connector block” which is fastened to the front fender above the left hand clipper. This then goes over the fender to the right hand calliper before going back to the left.
Basically this produces 2 loops for air to sit in.
So, my question, if I was to replace the brake lines, do people think I’d be better off with:
1-Twin lines from the master cylinder
2-Single from the master cylinder to a splitter/T piece then to each calliper
3-Single to a calliper, then over the fender to the other (Hel offer this kit)
4-Something else
I’m not expecting superbike brakes, but I’d want to lose the “will it stop” feeling when riding hard.
I’m currently riding a Tiger 800 XC and so far I’m impressed, although it needs a couple of changes.
The most important one being the front brakes, I find them terrible. For all I know it still has the original brake fluid (8.5K miles) in so that is getting changed, as well as new pads and general clean of the callipers etc.
But, the brake setup in standard form seems really over complicated. The master cylinder is connected to a single brake line which runs to a “connector block” which is fastened to the front fender above the left hand clipper. This then goes over the fender to the right hand calliper before going back to the left.
Basically this produces 2 loops for air to sit in.
So, my question, if I was to replace the brake lines, do people think I’d be better off with:
1-Twin lines from the master cylinder
2-Single from the master cylinder to a splitter/T piece then to each calliper
3-Single to a calliper, then over the fender to the other (Hel offer this kit)
4-Something else
I’m not expecting superbike brakes, but I’d want to lose the “will it stop” feeling when riding hard.
Clean pistons up
Replace lines with 2 direct from master cylinder
New fluid
Feel 100% better
I had issue with my Triumph on front brakes, lever had lots of movement and bleeding air out having a loop over the mud guard was a nightmare
Replaced them and all was a lot better
I also uprated the MC as well
Replace lines with 2 direct from master cylinder
New fluid
Feel 100% better
I had issue with my Triumph on front brakes, lever had lots of movement and bleeding air out having a loop over the mud guard was a nightmare
Replaced them and all was a lot better
I also uprated the MC as well
jasesapphy said:
Clean pistons up
Replace lines with 2 direct from master cylinder
New fluid
Feel 100% better
I had issue with my Triumph on front brakes, lever had lots of movement and bleeding air out having a loop over the mud guard was a nightmare
Replaced them and all was a lot better
I also uprated the MC as well
While I'm on then. Is the MC an easy swap? If so, which one would you recommend.Replace lines with 2 direct from master cylinder
New fluid
Feel 100% better
I had issue with my Triumph on front brakes, lever had lots of movement and bleeding air out having a loop over the mud guard was a nightmare
Replaced them and all was a lot better
I also uprated the MC as well
Hooli, I think a good thorough bleeding is what it needs. But improving the setup will make life easier when doing so.
For road use I'd personally go for the kit that replicates the OEM brake line routing as it's simply neater. In theory it would also give the firmest lever as it minimises the total length of flexible pipe, though I suspect the difference would be unnoticeable in practice.
The only downside is it's a more expensive kit as there are three lines compared to two lines in the "race" and "over the mudguard" kits.
The only downside is it's a more expensive kit as there are three lines compared to two lines in the "race" and "over the mudguard" kits.
cramman said:
Hooli, I think a good thorough bleeding is what it needs. But improving the setup will make life easier when doing so.
Sorry, I was posting from my phone at work so rushing a bit. I meant two lines from the MC or one line to a splitter makes no difference in the real world (as someone else said the single line should flex less, but I've never heard of anyone noticing).Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff