Anyone know much about HID kits?
Discussion
Wedg1e said:
Well as I was shooting my mouth off earlier in the thread I may as well continue... my Chinese (car) HIDs not only survived the bike being written-off in a rear-end shunt but were transferred to the replacement bike in 2010 and continue to work fine.
Yea, I have a pair fitted to an old corolla.... Been working around 5 years!Wedg1e said:
Well as I was shooting my mouth off earlier in the thread I may as well continue... my Chinese (car) HIDs not only survived the bike being written-off in a rear-end shunt but were transferred to the replacement bike in 2010 and continue to work fine.
Yea, I have a pair fitted to an old corolla.... Been working around 5 years!buzzer said:
Thread resurrection...
Will the diode solution work if I want my halogen bulbs to be on together?
I've reread the thread and can't see the solution to which you refer; give us a clue? Do you have twin headlamps, each with a dip and main (ie an H4 bulb) and you want them both lit at the same time? Will the diode solution work if I want my halogen bulbs to be on together?
Wedg1e said:
buzzer said:
Thread resurrection...
Will the diode solution work if I want my halogen bulbs to be on together?
I've reread the thread and can't see the solution to which you refer; give us a clue? Do you have twin headlamps, each with a dip and main (ie an H4 bulb) and you want them both lit at the same time? Will the diode solution work if I want my halogen bulbs to be on together?
The diode idea seems a good way to do it and they are only pennies from Maplins. I think I need...
2 x 1N4001S 1A Silicon Rectifier
Max. Average forward rectified current: 1A
Peak forward surge current: 30A
Max. DC reverse current: 5uA
Junction capacitance typ.: 15pF
Temperature range: -65 to +150°C
Part Max. recurrent Max. RMS Max. DC
number peak reverse voltage blocking
voltage voltage
1N4001S 50V 35V 50V
1 x 1000µF 16V 105°C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
If your dipped beam turns off when you switch to high beam (bad luck) - you can make this cheap circuit so the HID lights stay on all the time.
(Phear my l33t paint skillz)
So you locate the main and dipped beam wires, feed them both through an IN4001 diode to the relay. The capacitor just stops the relay clicking off too quickly when switching from high to dipped and visa-verse.
(Phear my l33t paint skillz)
So you locate the main and dipped beam wires, feed them both through an IN4001 diode to the relay. The capacitor just stops the relay clicking off too quickly when switching from high to dipped and visa-verse.
Edited by Dr Doofenshmirtz on Sunday 24th October 21:54
buzzer said:
Wedg1e said:
buzzer said:
Thread resurrection...
Will the diode solution work if I want my halogen bulbs to be on together?
I've reread the thread and can't see the solution to which you refer; give us a clue? Do you have twin headlamps, each with a dip and main (ie an H4 bulb) and you want them both lit at the same time? Will the diode solution work if I want my halogen bulbs to be on together?
The diode idea seems a good way to do it and they are only pennies from Maplins. I think I need...
2 x 1N4001S 1A Silicon Rectifier
1 x 1000µF 16V 105°C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
'Schmirtz is erring on the side of caution with the electrolytic capacitor; in the time it takes most dip/main switches to change over, the relay would scarcely have time to notice the momentary break in the supply, the residual magnetism will keep it switched anyway... but it wouldn't hurt. The only thing you may notice, depending on the lights supply wiring, is that your headlamps may stay on for a second after you turn the main switch off... but then again you may not
You do realise you're on a slippery slope with this; next you'll want the fog lights to come on in corners (a pet irritation of mine; if drivers' eyesight is so poor that the fogs illuminating really makes a difference then maybe they shouldn't be bloody driving )...
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