Discussion
Hi Benni,
Dunno about the Madass Army site, I'll check that out.
Pit Bike Club i've joined because my Madass has been recently fitted with a Pit Bike engine by the PO and needs tuning.
PH search turned up AceOfHearts, he did have one and I've sent him a PM.........no reply yet.
Cheers
Lance
Dunno about the Madass Army site, I'll check that out.
Pit Bike Club i've joined because my Madass has been recently fitted with a Pit Bike engine by the PO and needs tuning.
PH search turned up AceOfHearts, he did have one and I've sent him a PM.........no reply yet.
Cheers
Lance
One of the things i need to know from the last owner is where he got the engine from and it's spec'.
The engine runs and has only covered less than 10 miles since being fitted but needs the carburettor fine tuning.
First check the tappets are set correctly.
I'm quite sure the cold start (enrichener) on the Mikuni VM22 carb' setting is plunger up regardless of the lever position which varies according to whether or not it's a genuine carb'.
The air mixture screw is a bugger to get at as its underneath the carb ' and not easy to get at due to its proximity to the cylinder barrel, An extender screw is supposed to be available, VM26 yes, VM22 not seen any, but I've made up a tool rather that repeatedly removing the carb'..
It's not destined to be an every day bike just a bit of fun and is not roadworthy at present.
Cheers
The engine runs and has only covered less than 10 miles since being fitted but needs the carburettor fine tuning.
First check the tappets are set correctly.
I'm quite sure the cold start (enrichener) on the Mikuni VM22 carb' setting is plunger up regardless of the lever position which varies according to whether or not it's a genuine carb'.
The air mixture screw is a bugger to get at as its underneath the carb ' and not easy to get at due to its proximity to the cylinder barrel, An extender screw is supposed to be available, VM26 yes, VM22 not seen any, but I've made up a tool rather that repeatedly removing the carb'..
It's not destined to be an every day bike just a bit of fun and is not roadworthy at present.
Cheers
Hi Lewis,
Thanks for getting in touch.
It's little things about the bike I can't seem to find out like user manual or operating instructions all the ones I've found don't seem to cover my bike. For example mine started life as a 50 with a mechanical (rod) operated rear disc brake, nothing found regarding this. And did they all have the cold start on the handlebars.
Bit frustrating nothing serious.
Cheers
Lance
Thanks for getting in touch.
It's little things about the bike I can't seem to find out like user manual or operating instructions all the ones I've found don't seem to cover my bike. For example mine started life as a 50 with a mechanical (rod) operated rear disc brake, nothing found regarding this. And did they all have the cold start on the handlebars.
Bit frustrating nothing serious.
Cheers
Lance
Post a pic of the engine, both sides, and the engine number with letter prefix,
to help in trying to find out the manufacturer or size.
I would be surprised if the carb is an original Mikuni.
Do you always have to start -or run- the engine with choke ?
Could be clogged jets/passages due to a longer period of not-running.
For the idle mixture screw, there are special tools existing, you might try to slip a short piece of tubing on it,
battery breather tube should fit tightly and this will "extend" the screw to a more reachable level.
Post a pic of the rodded rear brake, I do not understand this setup.
to help in trying to find out the manufacturer or size.
I would be surprised if the carb is an original Mikuni.
Do you always have to start -or run- the engine with choke ?
Could be clogged jets/passages due to a longer period of not-running.
For the idle mixture screw, there are special tools existing, you might try to slip a short piece of tubing on it,
battery breather tube should fit tightly and this will "extend" the screw to a more reachable level.
Post a pic of the rodded rear brake, I do not understand this setup.
I now know the engine was a full package from Pit Bike Parts Ltd Alcester and the carb is a Mikuni copy VM22 26mm.
https://tinyurl.com/yahvkcsb
The idle mixture screw is recessed as well as being underneath but I have made a tool to aid adjustment. Once the up to temp' idling is sorted I can sort the mid range and top end running.if needed.
I'll post a photo of the rear brake.
Only other issue I've found so far is the speedo sensor cable is damaged at the wheel end and I have no idea what it should look like or how it was mounted. The reed switch is exposed so it's a 2 wire. So any info'/pictures or microfiche images would be gratefully received for this 2008 50cc Madass.
Cheers
https://tinyurl.com/yahvkcsb
The idle mixture screw is recessed as well as being underneath but I have made a tool to aid adjustment. Once the up to temp' idling is sorted I can sort the mid range and top end running.if needed.
I'll post a photo of the rear brake.
Only other issue I've found so far is the speedo sensor cable is damaged at the wheel end and I have no idea what it should look like or how it was mounted. The reed switch is exposed so it's a 2 wire. So any info'/pictures or microfiche images would be gratefully received for this 2008 50cc Madass.
Cheers
Edited by lancepar on Friday 21st December 16:31
My Google-Fu was good tonight after a shiiite day, I found a german / english document by Sachs,
looks like the works manual, covers the rear brake assy too.
https://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/downloa...
looks like the works manual, covers the rear brake assy too.
https://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/downloa...
Can you see what's missing from mine?
Yep no stickers, not bothered about the "Sachs below the seat but the "Madass" decal from either side of the tank wouldn't look
out of place. There are a few Sign makers around me, might get a couple made as I can't source any here in the UK.
Edit.
Got it running tidy now,,,,,,,,, adjusting the fiddly air mixture screw has given a smooth idle and snapping the throttle to full is linear through mid range to wide open without any hesitation,
Happy now
Yep no stickers, not bothered about the "Sachs below the seat but the "Madass" decal from either side of the tank wouldn't look
out of place. There are a few Sign makers around me, might get a couple made as I can't source any here in the UK.
Edit.
Got it running tidy now,,,,,,,,, adjusting the fiddly air mixture screw has given a smooth idle and snapping the throttle to full is linear through mid range to wide open without any hesitation,
Happy now
Edited by lancepar on Sunday 23 December 18:04
Edited by lancepar on Sunday 23 December 18:06
Good to read about your adjustment result, stickers also pop up on ebay.
Your kick starter lever interferes with the exhaust, looks a bit cross, if it bothers you,
an MTX 80 lever should sort that out, it folds nicely "around the clutch basket" horizontally.
It has to be that crooked and curved one from one of the early air-cooled engines (HD06).
Kicker shaft has to be 13mm, I think it should fit the YX 125.
Your kick starter lever interferes with the exhaust, looks a bit cross, if it bothers you,
an MTX 80 lever should sort that out, it folds nicely "around the clutch basket" horizontally.
It has to be that crooked and curved one from one of the early air-cooled engines (HD06).
Kicker shaft has to be 13mm, I think it should fit the YX 125.
I do have the straight short lever that came with the new engine but at present it's action just catches the end of the thread on the
swing arm bolt unless it is mounted past it at about the ten o'clock position. If the bolt was inserted so that its head was on the RH side of the engine the swing of the kickstart lever will pass.
However the swing out one that is on is fine, but I may change it to save a tiny bit of weight.
I intended including the short lever among the spare part from my Monkey bike which is now up for grabs, shown with a spare shaft in the photo below.
swing arm bolt unless it is mounted past it at about the ten o'clock position. If the bolt was inserted so that its head was on the RH side of the engine the swing of the kickstart lever will pass.
However the swing out one that is on is fine, but I may change it to save a tiny bit of weight.
I intended including the short lever among the spare part from my Monkey bike which is now up for grabs, shown with a spare shaft in the photo below.
I see a JingCheng ignition cover, do you still have the old engine that came with it ?
I might be interested in the stator/rotor assembly.
If it is possible to change the direction of the swing arm axle bolt, I would do it,
just check out that the end is not interfering with chain/sprocket on the other side.
I might be interested in the stator/rotor assembly.
If it is possible to change the direction of the swing arm axle bolt, I would do it,
just check out that the end is not interfering with chain/sprocket on the other side.
Not sure where the cover came from. I assembled my Monkey from the best parts of two bikes and all I know is that the present engine
barrel has 86cc cast on it and the chassis I sold on for parts had a C90 in it, can't remember why I ditched the C90.
Anyway here is a stator/rotor.
https://tinyurl.com/yblxsvcq
And a Easyrider MB
barrel has 86cc cast on it and the chassis I sold on for parts had a C90 in it, can't remember why I ditched the C90.
Anyway here is a stator/rotor.
https://tinyurl.com/yblxsvcq
And a Easyrider MB
OK, I was just asking for the generator parts because I thought you might have a damaged/incomplete 50cc JC engine,
because that stator/rotor assy is the only one that fits on classic original Honda 6V engines,
it is almost a plug ´n play installation that converts the dim 6V electrics to 12V.
The one you provided the link to will not fit the 6V engine due to crank length.
I wish you happy motoring with your MadAss, and will continue now building up my slightly mad minibike ( 212cc ST Dax copy).
because that stator/rotor assy is the only one that fits on classic original Honda 6V engines,
it is almost a plug ´n play installation that converts the dim 6V electrics to 12V.
The one you provided the link to will not fit the 6V engine due to crank length.
I wish you happy motoring with your MadAss, and will continue now building up my slightly mad minibike ( 212cc ST Dax copy).
I sorted the carburation, it needed a larger main jet.
Here it is at Ramsey Hairpin during the FOM and due to the iffy weather and having to get out marshalling nearly every day of the fortnight, added another 200 miles on the engine.
Really suprised the amount of interest the Madass created and also have a guy I see over there that wants to buy it.
Here it is at Ramsey Hairpin during the FOM and due to the iffy weather and having to get out marshalling nearly every day of the fortnight, added another 200 miles on the engine.
Really suprised the amount of interest the Madass created and also have a guy I see over there that wants to buy it.
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