Bike wouldnt go into neutral when hot
Discussion
My CBR1000RR wouldnt go into neutral when I came to a stop. It was like it was stuck in 1st every time I came to a stop. When I got home and the bike was cold again it would go into neutral no problem. I checked oil level and was all ok. Could it be clutch adjustment or something else?
When you say hot, how hot? I know when I was on a monkeyrun in London on the hottest summers day it got super hot (air cooled) and it stopped going into Neutral. Was fine shifting up and down. The oil had got super hot and thinned...there was no clutch adjustment needed on mine, but it could well be needed on yours.
How as it going into neutral when you come to a stop when your riding around?
How as it going into neutral when you come to a stop when your riding around?
If it's a cable clutch then try adjusting until it's got as little free play as possible, if you have adjustable levers wind them out a couple of notches, see if that helps.
Had the same thing on my Tuono, then a few weeks ago went out and in traffic it got very warm and the bite point of the clutch was moving closer to the bar, just needed a better setup than factory.
Had the same thing on my Tuono, then a few weeks ago went out and in traffic it got very warm and the bite point of the clutch was moving closer to the bar, just needed a better setup than factory.
Hydraulic or cable clutch?
If hydraulic it should be easy, probably a bit of air in the line, most modern bikes have a decent clutch master cylinder with a bleed screw on them, literally seconds to open and gently pull the lever to get the air out and tighten up again.
Cable, you would probably need to adjust the cable to actuate the clutch more.
It's a wet clutch so shouldn't suffer from sticking, but you could change the oil also which may help, but that would be the last option from above.
If hydraulic it should be easy, probably a bit of air in the line, most modern bikes have a decent clutch master cylinder with a bleed screw on them, literally seconds to open and gently pull the lever to get the air out and tighten up again.
Cable, you would probably need to adjust the cable to actuate the clutch more.
It's a wet clutch so shouldn't suffer from sticking, but you could change the oil also which may help, but that would be the last option from above.
alan36 said:
My CBR1000RR wouldnt go into neutral when I came to a stop. It was like it was stuck in 1st every time I came to a stop. When I got home and the bike was cold again it would go into neutral no problem. I checked oil level and was all ok. Could it be clutch adjustment or something else?
I've found this isn't uncommon with several bikes, and taking enough slack out of the clutch cable to solve it means the clutch doesn't fully engage and you get clutch slip. I tend to select neutral just as I stop and that solves the problem for me.Clutch drag.
My 60s bikes used to do this, because they were crude and worn out.
Ducatis, particularly dry clutch models will do this if the clutch is not in good nick.
On these bikes, the issue is often a warped plate. Once a plate is slightly warped, it heats up because it's the first to make contact, then it warps some more... Once you're stuck at a stand still and can't get neutral, the clutch can get really hot.
When I rode in traffic a lot, I go through a few clutch plates, just swapping out warped ones for flat secondhand ones.
Other causes can be the clutch cable is stretchy, or the hydraulics need bleeding, or anything else that means the clutch pushrod doesn't move as it should.
My 60s bikes used to do this, because they were crude and worn out.
Ducatis, particularly dry clutch models will do this if the clutch is not in good nick.
On these bikes, the issue is often a warped plate. Once a plate is slightly warped, it heats up because it's the first to make contact, then it warps some more... Once you're stuck at a stand still and can't get neutral, the clutch can get really hot.
When I rode in traffic a lot, I go through a few clutch plates, just swapping out warped ones for flat secondhand ones.
Other causes can be the clutch cable is stretchy, or the hydraulics need bleeding, or anything else that means the clutch pushrod doesn't move as it should.
OutInTheShed said:
Ducatis, particularly dry clutch models will do this if the clutch is not in good nick.
On these bikes, the issue is often a warped plate.
Or, too thick a clutch pack so insufficient plate separation.On these bikes, the issue is often a warped plate.
Set the overall pack thickness a mm or less than the recommended and neutral snicks in easily, I've been doing this for years and never had any slippage.
Oh, and ditch the 'dished' steel plates (which are effectively warped plates anyway), they're more trouble than they're worth.
catso said:
OutInTheShed said:
Ducatis, particularly dry clutch models will do this if the clutch is not in good nick.
On these bikes, the issue is often a warped plate.
Or, too thick a clutch pack so insufficient plate separation.On these bikes, the issue is often a warped plate.
Set the overall pack thickness a mm or less than the recommended and neutral snicks in easily, I've been doing this for years and never had any slippage.
Oh, and ditch the 'dished' steel plates (which are effectively warped plates anyway), they're more trouble than they're worth.
They've never given me any trouble in 35,000 miles of riding these bikes, mostly commuting.
But I don't race and my bike is not the biggest or most highly tuned to use this clutch.
The stack height only makes a small difference to the force pushing the clutch plates together, because the clutch springs have a fair bit of pre-load.
I have strong hands so I've never sought to lighten the lever action as some do, which can risk running out of travel if everything's not perfect.
OutInTheShed said:
The 'dished' plates are there to make the clutch more progressive, less on/off.
They've never given me any trouble in 35,000 miles of riding these bikes, mostly commuting.
Have you tried without them?They've never given me any trouble in 35,000 miles of riding these bikes, mostly commuting.
Makes no difference to the progressiveness (if that's a word) IMO but you get full contact on the adjacent frictions so less chance of slipping.
Both of mine have no dished plates, I also usually manage to get an extra fiction plate in by careful shuffling/stacking, using 1.5mm plain plates in place of the standard 2mm if it's too thick.
Both bikes have a nice, progressive feel, no slip and neutral can be had whilst standing.
IMO the essential thing is that you have enough separation that the clutch pack will 'spin on' if spun by hand (clutch pulled in), rather than stop dead when you release it - engine off of course.
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff