Outrigger question(s)
Discussion
Andy_J_G said:
So, I would drive my car to you, you will remove the body from the chassis. I would have the full treatment to the chassis (stainless outriggers, zinc etc) and you would put it all back together. How long does it take and how much would it cost?
This seems to be a question that doesnt get answered..mmmmmmmvaurien said:
Thx a lot but the galvanzing is only perfekt if it dont will get stroke. But the tyre
never stop to send dirt from the street to the outriggers. Therefore we offer as one of the best solution for this section to place stainless steel there. I think the combine of the protection are well. The perfect would be to produce the whole chassis in stainless steel. The price for this is secret but high.
Are they hot dip galvanized? If so do you have to drill holes in the tubes so the chasis doesn't float?never stop to send dirt from the street to the outriggers. Therefore we offer as one of the best solution for this section to place stainless steel there. I think the combine of the protection are well. The perfect would be to produce the whole chassis in stainless steel. The price for this is secret but high.
Also does the heat distort the chassis & if so how do you straighten it out?
Yep ....it´s a MUST...with a lot of reasons....and that you are care...with the warm-up phase ...
and with the cool-down phase too. Porsche, BMW Z1, Renault Espace, Wiessmann and some other too
made it. It is expensive.....the only better solution would be.....one stainless steel chassis
in right material composition.
Regard
Gregor
and with the cool-down phase too. Porsche, BMW Z1, Renault Espace, Wiessmann and some other too
made it. It is expensive.....the only better solution would be.....one stainless steel chassis
in right material composition.
Regard
Gregor
Many years ago I worked in a galvanizing factory and occasionaly we would do land rover chassis, nearly everyone distorted, it used to take the company that made them ages to sort the out after.
On your chassis, Im assuming alot of holes need to be drilled before being galvanized. Im guessing every section that has no open ends would need at least 2 holes drilled. What do you do with the holes after they come back from the galvanizers? do you fill them or leave them, also are the holes taken into consideration in the design?
Do you only do Chimaera chassis?
On your chassis, Im assuming alot of holes need to be drilled before being galvanized. Im guessing every section that has no open ends would need at least 2 holes drilled. What do you do with the holes after they come back from the galvanizers? do you fill them or leave them, also are the holes taken into consideration in the design?
Do you only do Chimaera chassis?
Yon know well about the galvanizing. The Chimi frame/chassis need about 200 suffuse -holes and they are very important. One of our customer pleased us to find a way for
this technology. At the beginning of this project we have first a lot of information to process and material science collected. You'll not blame me that I will not reveal all this. Also not all chassis design are for this protection method suitable !
With this knowledge we had inform our client/customer about the chance & risk and he
made the choise to do it. We made the same choise with the chassis for one of our chimi´s. Both chassis made side by side the procedure which in front we agree with
the galvanzing company. The result was very nice and the surveys showed only very little change of whole dimensions. Certainly the chassis got more weight.
By commerical vehicle and trailer after galvanizing they let open the holes because the zinc protects also from inside. Also we know some owner of oldtimer which made
the same procedure that they also let open the holes and some other closed they.
Toghter with our client/customer we made the choise to closed the holes with rivet
polish them carefull and after protect additional with powder coating plus sectionally
with epoxy coating and finally the whole chassis with stone chips protection.
It is a lot of work because the whole chassis, all hole and all threads must reworked.
Regards
Gregor
this technology. At the beginning of this project we have first a lot of information to process and material science collected. You'll not blame me that I will not reveal all this. Also not all chassis design are for this protection method suitable !
With this knowledge we had inform our client/customer about the chance & risk and he
made the choise to do it. We made the same choise with the chassis for one of our chimi´s. Both chassis made side by side the procedure which in front we agree with
the galvanzing company. The result was very nice and the surveys showed only very little change of whole dimensions. Certainly the chassis got more weight.
By commerical vehicle and trailer after galvanizing they let open the holes because the zinc protects also from inside. Also we know some owner of oldtimer which made
the same procedure that they also let open the holes and some other closed they.
Toghter with our client/customer we made the choise to closed the holes with rivet
polish them carefull and after protect additional with powder coating plus sectionally
with epoxy coating and finally the whole chassis with stone chips protection.
It is a lot of work because the whole chassis, all hole and all threads must reworked.
Regards
Gregor
Thank you for answering the questions. I think its a great project your doing and it will become more popular. Theres an increasing number of people that have had the outriggers galvanized, Im sure its only a matter of time before people start doing the chassis in greater numbers.
Out of interest whats the weight difference between a stainless steel chassis, a normal steel one and a galvanized one?
Thanks
Out of interest whats the weight difference between a stainless steel chassis, a normal steel one and a galvanized one?
Thanks
when you have a stainless steel chassis for say the Chimaera, can you leave that unpainted?
I mean its strong and won't rust (not like iron) why painting it afterwards...
that is more complex/pricy/weight...
so can you leave it unpainted and say (in theory) drive the whole year any weather and also say winter salted roads without much problems?
or is that asking to much of such stainless chassis
it would make it a bit easier between the "ears" so to speak.
I mean its strong and won't rust (not like iron) why painting it afterwards...
that is more complex/pricy/weight...
so can you leave it unpainted and say (in theory) drive the whole year any weather and also say winter salted roads without much problems?
or is that asking to much of such stainless chassis
it would make it a bit easier between the "ears" so to speak.
JR said:
GTRene said:
or is that asking to much of such stainless chassis
Nope. Have a look at the car that 'Hatter' owns with a TVR origina SS chassis.http://www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?p=14&f=12&...
they only didn't great weldings by then
so I guess with modern knowhow and the right stainless and tools/welding its good possible to build good TVR chassis....and leave it "naked" no paint needed so its also "green"
One chassis 100% produce of stainless steel in right quality of material do not need any paint.
It is the perfect solution if you make it right and well !
The proper selection of the right stainless steel quality is than important factor. There are a lot of difference
by stainless steel. To produce a chassis of 100% stainless steel you have at first to respect the lowest limit values for the tensilie and elongation limit in comparison with the original design of the producer.
Under this condition are over 80% of the stainless steel sites are useless ! As second step you have to select
the stainless steel quality which are not only stabil in water it has to be stabil in salt water. Between them
is a big difference.
Now, if these of both requirements are superposed to filter out a few varieties which are suitable you will come
to the solution that only the cost of material compared to standard material which used the car producer is 15 to 20 times more expensive !
Therefore do not only ask for stainlaess steel.....look that this is the right one....and never it will be cheap!
The welding technologie is also important for a good result. Nice or not so nice weld bead is also one important factor like the right choise of the welding material too. If you dont use the right composition of the material to make these weak it can rust there too.
To make a composition of steel and stailess steel with galvanizing, which is cheaper and almost comparable to the perfect I show before in this topic.
Why to color/paint......it need not more to long time the we drive with our chimaeras, griffith, cerbera .......
and so on...... = OLDTIMER ! To get this status the overall picture must looks like the producer original. We have reviewed the regulations which should be the same throughout the EU.
Reffering to this oldtimer regulations of the EU never one frame/chassis 100% produce of stainless steel = not
like origninal will get the oldtimer status ! The partial replacement or exchange provided comparable is permitted or/and at the discretion of the inspector.
Inspector/Inspection .... that is the only one which is important .... but not only for onetimes because we know
the inspector or he had a lucky night before. It should appear as faithfully.
On this way you get the best protction and the inspector the picture that you need. Sometimes less is more in order to reach the goal/target.
Regards
Gregor
It is the perfect solution if you make it right and well !
The proper selection of the right stainless steel quality is than important factor. There are a lot of difference
by stainless steel. To produce a chassis of 100% stainless steel you have at first to respect the lowest limit values for the tensilie and elongation limit in comparison with the original design of the producer.
Under this condition are over 80% of the stainless steel sites are useless ! As second step you have to select
the stainless steel quality which are not only stabil in water it has to be stabil in salt water. Between them
is a big difference.
Now, if these of both requirements are superposed to filter out a few varieties which are suitable you will come
to the solution that only the cost of material compared to standard material which used the car producer is 15 to 20 times more expensive !
Therefore do not only ask for stainlaess steel.....look that this is the right one....and never it will be cheap!
The welding technologie is also important for a good result. Nice or not so nice weld bead is also one important factor like the right choise of the welding material too. If you dont use the right composition of the material to make these weak it can rust there too.
To make a composition of steel and stailess steel with galvanizing, which is cheaper and almost comparable to the perfect I show before in this topic.
Why to color/paint......it need not more to long time the we drive with our chimaeras, griffith, cerbera .......
and so on...... = OLDTIMER ! To get this status the overall picture must looks like the producer original. We have reviewed the regulations which should be the same throughout the EU.
Reffering to this oldtimer regulations of the EU never one frame/chassis 100% produce of stainless steel = not
like origninal will get the oldtimer status ! The partial replacement or exchange provided comparable is permitted or/and at the discretion of the inspector.
Inspector/Inspection .... that is the only one which is important .... but not only for onetimes because we know
the inspector or he had a lucky night before. It should appear as faithfully.
On this way you get the best protction and the inspector the picture that you need. Sometimes less is more in order to reach the goal/target.
Regards
Gregor
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