Meet up September 28th
Discussion
Interesting day at the pod. Was very busy but got 4 runs in. The first turned out to be the quickest 11.32 at 126.66 with a below par 1.74 to 60 foot. The next 2 runs I carried a passenger, the first was Nick , 6 foot 4 and 120kg so cost me a couple tenths. Then his mate, slighter in stature but a spit of a young Gordon Ramsey. The 4th run was an experiment changing my rear shocks to their softest setting and proved it doesn’t work for me well th a lot of wheelspin and my worst 60 foot. But I had given my wastegate a couple of turns and the boost was up with a great terminal speed of 128. So I reset my shocks and got back in the queue. I would have been one of the last cars on track at nearly 8pm but it started to rain. Typical. A great day and I believe the car can run in the 10’s again. A little more boost or maybe a little nitrous and maybe break my record.
Your 3rd run looked good. You had the right balance between power & traction.
2 things let you down.
1. The blue Chim's delay & stalling tactics to close his passenger door 3 times.
The blue Chim was trying to lift the front end & only his better tyres made a difference.
He looks like hes at the limit of power & traction with his suspension chassis set up.
2. You where fighting against a chemical soaked surface. On a dry surface you will be below 11sec.
Well done to you both the run looked good & professional.
Split hose Glen, LPG Steve Sprints mate dropped all his coolant.
Glen on your next run you had black smoke from the exhaust when you changed gear.
Highlights a 9.4 from a gocart, Ok a drag cart & the street bikes doing 155mph plus.
2 things let you down.
1. The blue Chim's delay & stalling tactics to close his passenger door 3 times.
The blue Chim was trying to lift the front end & only his better tyres made a difference.
He looks like hes at the limit of power & traction with his suspension chassis set up.
2. You where fighting against a chemical soaked surface. On a dry surface you will be below 11sec.
Well done to you both the run looked good & professional.
Split hose Glen, LPG Steve Sprints mate dropped all his coolant.
Glen on your next run you had black smoke from the exhaust when you changed gear.
Highlights a 9.4 from a gocart, Ok a drag cart & the street bikes doing 155mph plus.
Stalling tactics? Wtf? Lol
I had a passenger in who haven’t slammed the door properly and a tail of the harness was hanging in the way. The marshal took time to see that was the problem.
I didn’t get decent traction all day and blame the fact that my tyres are getting old and the track was also cold. Barrie in the green Chim was on a brand new pair of similar tyres and managed a 60 foot time of 1.58 which was 2 tenths quicker.
With new tyres (that were ordered 2weeks ago and in transit) and a warmer track then yes, my car will run in the 10’s again.
It was fantastic to see those TVR owners that turned up to what could have been a wash out. We were lucky with the weather considering the rain the day before and yesterday! I couldn’t believe how busy the RWYB was. A lot of people trying to get runs towards the end of the summer maybe but also highlights the need to get behind the new fundraising for the all new Melbourne Raceway. Please please please help if you can. On a personal note, I need my track back. York is where my drag racing heart is. The best of racing and the friendliest of people.
I had a passenger in who haven’t slammed the door properly and a tail of the harness was hanging in the way. The marshal took time to see that was the problem.
I didn’t get decent traction all day and blame the fact that my tyres are getting old and the track was also cold. Barrie in the green Chim was on a brand new pair of similar tyres and managed a 60 foot time of 1.58 which was 2 tenths quicker.
With new tyres (that were ordered 2weeks ago and in transit) and a warmer track then yes, my car will run in the 10’s again.
It was fantastic to see those TVR owners that turned up to what could have been a wash out. We were lucky with the weather considering the rain the day before and yesterday! I couldn’t believe how busy the RWYB was. A lot of people trying to get runs towards the end of the summer maybe but also highlights the need to get behind the new fundraising for the all new Melbourne Raceway. Please please please help if you can. On a personal note, I need my track back. York is where my drag racing heart is. The best of racing and the friendliest of people.
stevesprint said:
Great fun and great to learn from the masters
My best time was 13.4sec at 107mph and Glyn beat me by 0.2 sec
Barrie and Derek,
What tyre pressures do you run and do you burn out in the water ? I didn’t like the thought of getting my tyres wet before starting a standing 1/4 mile !!!
We were both at 12 psi with our Mickey Thompson drag radials. Yes burnout in the water and come off the brake still wheel spinning out of the water so bone dry and hot and sticky. On road or track type tyres I would recommend about 16 psi and just a small burnout. No real advantage to be had smoking them for ages.My best time was 13.4sec at 107mph and Glyn beat me by 0.2 sec
Barrie and Derek,
What tyre pressures do you run and do you burn out in the water ? I didn’t like the thought of getting my tyres wet before starting a standing 1/4 mile !!!
Note... every tenth you gain to the first 60 foot you should take at least 2 tenths off your ET
Sardonicus said:
Note... every tenth you gain to the first 60 foot you should take at least 2 tenths off your ET
I especially like Dereks last calculation point ..... a lot 
well done chaps some seriously quick cars here 
2 especially 
Get that start,,, mid to low 12’s all day in yours, MT’s just floor it and get no spin, a lot easier and a lot faster.
DangerousDerek said:
We were both at 12 psi with our Mickey Thompson drag radials. Yes burnout in the water and come off the brake still wheel spinning out of the water so bone dry and hot and sticky. On road or track type tyres I would recommend about 16 psi and just a small burnout. No real advantage to be had smoking them for ages.
Note... every tenth you gain to the first 60 foot you should take at least 2 tenths off your ET
Derek, Note... every tenth you gain to the first 60 foot you should take at least 2 tenths off your ET
How do you wheel spin and brake at the same time? Are you suggesting a small burn out in the water or out of the water with road/track tyres?
What longbaz said and do it in 2nd gear revs around 3.5k. This is how DangerousDerek advised me at Shakey in 2017
ie start off with 2nd gear
Left foot on clutch
Right foot on accelerator revs at 4k
Quickly move left foot off clutch to hard brakes while maintaing revs and rear wheels will spin up.
Watch out for torque steer as rear wheels try to overcome front brakes.
Rev to maintain the burnout
To stop burnout quickly jump left foot back on full clutch and right foot on foot brake.
Smile and look cool.
To do proper pose hold drivers door open whilsr watching smoke bellowing engulfing the whole car....haha
ie start off with 2nd gear
Left foot on clutch
Right foot on accelerator revs at 4k
Quickly move left foot off clutch to hard brakes while maintaing revs and rear wheels will spin up.
Watch out for torque steer as rear wheels try to overcome front brakes.
Rev to maintain the burnout
To stop burnout quickly jump left foot back on full clutch and right foot on foot brake.
Smile and look cool.
To do proper pose hold drivers door open whilsr watching smoke bellowing engulfing the whole car....haha
LongBaz said:
Hi Steve.
Get the revs up and drop the clutch to spin the wheels, then with your left foot 'lightly' put it on the brake peddle.
I have an electric line lock so just have to flick a switch to lock the front breaks.
'lightly'. Sorry Barrie this doesn't happen. If you ever try left foot braking you will realize your left foot doesn't know how to do lightly.Get the revs up and drop the clutch to spin the wheels, then with your left foot 'lightly' put it on the brake peddle.
I have an electric line lock so just have to flick a switch to lock the front breaks.
I jump on the brake otherwise I risk rolling forward in the burnout.
Set the wheels spinning, jump on the brake with the left foot, keep the revs up a few seconds till the MTs are smoking nicely then slowly release the brake to let the car move forward out of the water while still spinning. Foot on the clutch then good to go.
Just for clarification,
This is the hard core way for proper drag radial tyres.
For 95% of us on road tyres it’s not really necessary to do burn outs as if you have enough power the wheels will still spin as road tyres will never generate enough grip once you’ve dropped the clutch.
I did it as it looks cool, just wish Frank had told me of the proper cool look with the door open,, I really need a pic of me looking back at a smoky tyre, Uber cool
What’s truly cool is getting a personal best time then building on it, it’s a proper sport and does require the drivers input to be spot on let alone your car.
I personally think the best thing about these RWYB events is it’s a chance to race.
This normally requires licences/ medicals and very much more.
Few people actually experience real racing other than putt putt carts so to take a fairly powerful car and race it for pennies is a great thing.
It’s as safe as you can get really.
Your on show, in summer crowds are plenty, it’s nerve racking, guts on edge, buzzin.
The nature of all Tvr owners regardless of state of tune is to be as competitive as they can be,,, which I also think is great and a mark of the man.
Obviously the drag racing head cases think we’re mad, probably expect is to blow up,,, Rich from them which is such a compliment as they often chuck engines out of engine bays in thousands of pieces.
A few runs should never hurt a Tvr.
In its life a few d
head owners will probably have done many more extreme burn outs or violent accelerations from traffic lights.
I’d imagine most of us are far more sedate now the cars are older so a few drag runs are just a reminder of the cars true abilities, great fun and no reason why you should have any major issues if your car works properly to start with.
I knackered a clutch dragging, but I was doing exactly that, I’d got competitive, totally hammered the car, used everything I could to get a super fast get away which included toe and heel on throttle and brake and riding the clutch only holding car back with the brakes...... just raise the clutch as you release the brake and BOOM your off
It’s important to note I did 15 runs over one weekend which is extreme in itself.
Car was fine.. it was a year later that I then did possibly another 12-15 runs and using the full on racing technique.
Still drove home and was’nt until months later clutch failed.
Grudgingly I accept it was my own doing
I had a new Diff in between these two events,,,
It had been making noise since well before any drag activity,
I used this new Diff when setting my personal best time, still drives like new ( thank god)
At no stage was drag racing responsible for my actions,, other than it turns you into a fire breathing eye of the tiger competitive animal.. what a buzz
This is the hard core way for proper drag radial tyres.
For 95% of us on road tyres it’s not really necessary to do burn outs as if you have enough power the wheels will still spin as road tyres will never generate enough grip once you’ve dropped the clutch.
I did it as it looks cool, just wish Frank had told me of the proper cool look with the door open,, I really need a pic of me looking back at a smoky tyre, Uber cool
What’s truly cool is getting a personal best time then building on it, it’s a proper sport and does require the drivers input to be spot on let alone your car.
I personally think the best thing about these RWYB events is it’s a chance to race.
This normally requires licences/ medicals and very much more.
Few people actually experience real racing other than putt putt carts so to take a fairly powerful car and race it for pennies is a great thing.
It’s as safe as you can get really.
Your on show, in summer crowds are plenty, it’s nerve racking, guts on edge, buzzin.
The nature of all Tvr owners regardless of state of tune is to be as competitive as they can be,,, which I also think is great and a mark of the man.
Obviously the drag racing head cases think we’re mad, probably expect is to blow up,,, Rich from them which is such a compliment as they often chuck engines out of engine bays in thousands of pieces.
A few runs should never hurt a Tvr.
In its life a few d
head owners will probably have done many more extreme burn outs or violent accelerations from traffic lights.I’d imagine most of us are far more sedate now the cars are older so a few drag runs are just a reminder of the cars true abilities, great fun and no reason why you should have any major issues if your car works properly to start with.
I knackered a clutch dragging, but I was doing exactly that, I’d got competitive, totally hammered the car, used everything I could to get a super fast get away which included toe and heel on throttle and brake and riding the clutch only holding car back with the brakes...... just raise the clutch as you release the brake and BOOM your off
It’s important to note I did 15 runs over one weekend which is extreme in itself.
Car was fine.. it was a year later that I then did possibly another 12-15 runs and using the full on racing technique.
Still drove home and was’nt until months later clutch failed.
Grudgingly I accept it was my own doing
I had a new Diff in between these two events,,,
It had been making noise since well before any drag activity,
I used this new Diff when setting my personal best time, still drives like new ( thank god)
At no stage was drag racing responsible for my actions,, other than it turns you into a fire breathing eye of the tiger competitive animal.. what a buzz
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 1st October 12:59
Cracking day at Santa Pod on Saturday and Thank You Derek for organising the meet it was great to meet you and Barrie (The seasoned Pros!).
It was my first time drag racing and WOW what an experience, loved it!
I ran 4 times with my best being my very first one (ever!) at 13.2598 @104.80 with 1.8667 to 60 foot…
Not bad so I understand for a 14CUX NA Pre Cat Griff with old T1Rs road tyres @23 PSI
Unfortunately, I lost some coolant on my third run from a hose leak, fortunately that was quickly repaired with the help of Steve and Fred (Thanks Guys!)… Luckily, I was able to trim the faulty hose and there was enough slack to reattach it. I think the hoses are now due a change LOL. Then out for my final run of the day before my 3.5 hour drive home to Mid Wales.
I’ll be back with stickier tyres next time
Sub 13 me thinks
Cheers
Glyn
it was great to meet you and Barrie (The seasoned Pros!).It was my first time drag racing and WOW what an experience, loved it!
I ran 4 times with my best being my very first one (ever!) at 13.2598 @104.80 with 1.8667 to 60 foot…
Not bad so I understand
for a 14CUX NA Pre Cat Griff with old T1Rs road tyres @23 PSI Unfortunately, I lost some coolant on my third run from a hose leak, fortunately that was quickly repaired with the help of Steve and Fred (Thanks Guys!)… Luckily, I was able to trim the faulty hose and there was enough slack to reattach it.
I think the hoses are now due a change LOL. Then out for my final run of the day before my 3.5 hour drive home to Mid Wales.I’ll be back with stickier tyres next time
Sub 13 me thinks
Cheers
Glyn
Edited by MPO on Tuesday 1st October 13:24
MPO said:
Cracking day at Santa Pod on Sunday and Thank You Derek for organising the meet it was great to meet you and Barrie (The seasoned Pros!).
It was my first time drag racing and WOW what an experience, loved it!
I ran 4 times with my best being my very first one (ever!) at 13.2598 @104.80 with 1.8667 to 60 foot…
Not bad so I understand for a 14CUX NA Pre Cat Griff with old T1Rs road tyres @23 PSI
Unfortunately, I lost some coolant on my third run from a hose leak, fortunately that was quickly repaired with the help of Steve and Fred (Thanks Guys!)… Luckily, I was able to trim the faulty hose and there was enough slack to reattach it. I think the hoses are now due a change LOL. Then out for my final run of the day before my 3.5 hour drive home to Mid Wales.
I’ll be back with stickier tyres next time
Sub 13 me thinks
Cheers
Glyn
it was great to meet you and Barrie (The seasoned Pros!).It was my first time drag racing and WOW what an experience, loved it!
I ran 4 times with my best being my very first one (ever!) at 13.2598 @104.80 with 1.8667 to 60 foot…
Not bad so I understand
for a 14CUX NA Pre Cat Griff with old T1Rs road tyres @23 PSI Unfortunately, I lost some coolant on my third run from a hose leak, fortunately that was quickly repaired with the help of Steve and Fred (Thanks Guys!)… Luckily, I was able to trim the faulty hose and there was enough slack to reattach it.
I think the hoses are now due a change LOL. Then out for my final run of the day before my 3.5 hour drive home to Mid Wales.I’ll be back with stickier tyres next time
Sub 13 me thinks
Cheers
Glyn
That’s a mega run first time out the box
12’s all day. What a fantastic result.
Under 13’s is fast as hell in my eyes, it’s really very hard and only because we see times like 11.2 from the pro’s do we question it.
That’s a proper car you have there sir.
ETA your terminal speed of 104, lots of wind,,, nearer 110 easy on a good day
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 1st October 13:17
Thanks for your positive comments Alun
Now you come to mention it, there was a pretty strong head wind on the day too, didn’t think of that reducing ET times and ¼ MPH
Ummmm
Interestingly my best time (13.2598) had an R.T of +0.5340 and another later run had an R.T +0.3551. If I had had a response time that much quicker over the initial +0.5340 I had, would it have reduced my ¼ ET by approximately 0.4 seconds based on what Derek is suggesting?
Just trying to understand the sums…
Cheers
Glyn
Now you come to mention it, there was a pretty strong head wind on the day too, didn’t think of that reducing ET times and ¼ MPH
Ummmm
Interestingly my best time (13.2598) had an R.T of +0.5340 and another later run had an R.T +0.3551. If I had had a response time that much quicker over the initial +0.5340 I had, would it have reduced my ¼ ET by approximately 0.4 seconds based on what Derek is suggesting?
Just trying to understand the sums…
Cheers
Glyn
MPO said:
Thanks for your positive comments Alun
Now you come to mention it, there was a pretty strong head wind on the day too, didn’t think of that reducing ET times and ¼ MPH
Ummmm
Interestingly my best time (13.2598) had an R.T of +0.5340 and another later run had an R.T +0.3551. If I had had a response time that much quicker over the initial +0.5340 I had, would it have reduced my ¼ ET by approximately 0.4 seconds based on what Derek is suggesting?
Just trying to understand the sums…
Cheers
Glyn
Hi GlynNow you come to mention it, there was a pretty strong head wind on the day too, didn’t think of that reducing ET times and ¼ MPH
Ummmm
Interestingly my best time (13.2598) had an R.T of +0.5340 and another later run had an R.T +0.3551. If I had had a response time that much quicker over the initial +0.5340 I had, would it have reduced my ¼ ET by approximately 0.4 seconds based on what Derek is suggesting?
Just trying to understand the sums…
Cheers
Glyn
reaction times have no effect on the ET. You can sit there for 20 seconds on a green light and run the same time as normal.
The timing is activated as you set off and break the timing beam which is 12" I think beyond the stage beam.
The key to an improved ET is to improve the launch technique and reduce that 60 foot time. As I said with practice most people can find 2 to 3 tenths and therefore improve by half a second.
If I understand it correct NO
yourRT time which was blinding by the way only represents how much sooner you leave the line than the other car.
If you wait for the other car to go your time is set when you break the timing beam so only starts when you set off.
You may well still win the run based on your time alone.
I think you mean 0-60 ft times.
What was yours
For every 2/10ths you gain there so a better start as in controlling grip should equate to double that at the end.
I’d often be around 2 seconds, 1.7 got me a gain of 1/2 a second at the end,
I went from a 13.1 down to 12.7 Through that 0-60 ft time gain so yes broadly Derek’s calc is spot on.
First runs on
T1Rs 13.1 my best
Second
Rainsport 3 12.7
Derek’s MT’s I think I’d got a lowish maybe 12.3/12.4 in the car if I hadn’t had the tyres rubbing in wheel arches......
Managed a 12.6 and was dissapointed at the time as the car felt slow at the end of runs, 108 when I’d done 110 mph before with slower starts.
It’s all about that get away which takes a lot of skill, or fat assed tyres,, or both
Or just read Derek’s post and save all the waffle
yourRT time which was blinding by the way only represents how much sooner you leave the line than the other car.
If you wait for the other car to go your time is set when you break the timing beam so only starts when you set off.
You may well still win the run based on your time alone.
I think you mean 0-60 ft times.
What was yours
For every 2/10ths you gain there so a better start as in controlling grip should equate to double that at the end.
I’d often be around 2 seconds, 1.7 got me a gain of 1/2 a second at the end,
I went from a 13.1 down to 12.7 Through that 0-60 ft time gain so yes broadly Derek’s calc is spot on.
First runs on
T1Rs 13.1 my best
Second
Rainsport 3 12.7
Derek’s MT’s I think I’d got a lowish maybe 12.3/12.4 in the car if I hadn’t had the tyres rubbing in wheel arches......
Managed a 12.6 and was dissapointed at the time as the car felt slow at the end of runs, 108 when I’d done 110 mph before with slower starts.
It’s all about that get away which takes a lot of skill, or fat assed tyres,, or both
Or just read Derek’s post and save all the waffle
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 1st October 14:42
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